March  16,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
2i5 
-  Farmers  and  Fruit  Culture. — Certainly  there  is  great 
need  for  improved  methods  of  fruit  culture  on  farms,  for  one  seldom 
sees  fruit  trees  and  bushes  doing  other  than  existing  in  such  places,  and 
not  cultivated.  But  then,  how  can  it  be  otherwise  unless  the  farmer 
himself  is  a  gardener  also,  and  will  attend  to  his  trees  and  bushes,  or 
else  he  is  in  such  affluent  circumstances  that  he  can  afford  to  keep  a 
practical  gardener,  and  thus  have  all  hii  garden  well  cared  for  as  well  as 
his  trees.  But  it  would  be  absurd  to  assume  that  an  ordinary  agricultural 
labourer  could  look  after  the  garden  properly,  much  less  attend  to  the 
trees  and  bushes.  Evidently  farmers  should  have  their  sons  taught 
gardening  as  well  as  agriculture,  especially  fruit  culture.  But  if  the  sons 
prefer  to  be  hunting,  sporting,  or  otherwise  wasting  valuable  hours,  then 
there  is  no  hope  whatever  that  the  agriculturist  can  ever  develop  into  a 
satisfactory  fruit  grower.  But  under  no  circumstances  would  I  advise  the 
farmer  embarking  in  fruit  culture  as  a  trading  speculation,  unless  his 
proclivities  were  warmly  in  that  direction.  Such  knowledge  as  may 
suffice  to  grow  good  field  crops  is  of  no  use  when  fruit  culture  is  con¬ 
cerned.  To  do  that  with  success  and  profit  a  farmer  must  have  long 
experience  in  the  work,  and  that  can  only  be  obtained  in  fruit  nurseries, 
in  good  private  gardens,  and  in  special  fruit  gardens.  He  must  also  have 
the  widest  knowledge  of  packing,  selecting,  selling,  and  all  the  essentials 
to  marketing  work.  How  is  he  to  acquire  all  this  knowledge  consonant 
with  acquiring  a  full  knowledge  of  agriculture?  But,  after  all,  fruit 
culture  for  market  is  a  distinct  vocation,  and  is  so  much  more  prosperous 
and  successful  when  undertaken  by  specialists  who  through  long  expe¬ 
rience  have  leariieil  to  know  what  are  all  the  essentials  to  that  success, 
without  which  no  such  enterprise  can  be  profitable. — A.  D. 
NOTES  ON  FOROINO  FIGS. 
Earliest  Trees  in  Pots. 
Early  Violet  and  St.  John’s  varieties  that  were  started  in  gentle 
bottom  beat  in  November  are  now  beginning  to  take  their  last  swelling 
of  the  fruit  for  ripening  ;  and  to  insure  flavour,  also  to  prevent  “  spot,”  a 
drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere  and  a  high  temperature,  with  increased 
ventilation  on  fine  days,  is  desirable.  To  check  red  spider  it  is  advisable 
to  paint  the  hot-water  pipes  with  sulphur.  The  larger  fruited  varieties, 
however,  have  not  the  fruit  sufficiently  forward  to  admit  of  the  relatively 
dry  treatment  without  prejudice  to  their  crops.  Any  thing  approaching 
dryness  at  the  roots  must  be  avoided,  yet  lessened  supplies  are  needed 
than  when  the  fruit  is  swelling.  Brown  Turkey,  Pingo  de  Mel,  and 
similar  varieties  should  have  good  supplies  of  tepid  liquid  manure 
twice  a  week,  and  the  top-dressirgs  be  replenished,  lumpy  manure 
absorbing  moisture  when  the  trees  are  syringed,  and  gives  off  genial 
vapour  for  some  time  afterwards.  Syringe  twice  a  day  when  fine,  once 
only  when  the  weather  is  dull,  the  second  syringing  being  given 
in  time  for  the  foliage  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Maintain 
a  night  temperature  of  65°  when  mild,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  a  heat 
ranging  from  75°  to  85°  with  sun.  Stop  and  thin  the  side  shoots,  as 
Figs  enjoy  light,  full  exposure  to  sunshine,  training  termin  ils  forward 
where  space  admits  or  there  is  need  to  preserve  the  symmetry,  always 
guarding  against  overcrowding. 
Succession  Houses. 
Trees  in  borders  make  very  rapid  growth,  hence  the  necessity  of 
frequent  attention  in  stopping  the  shoots  at  the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf.  As  a 
well-developed  spur,  as  such  shoots  are  called,  gives  the  best  results  in  the 
second  crop  when  a  number  of  shoots  appear  together,  they  may  all  be 
removed  but  one,  so  as  to  cause  it  to  be  sturdy  and  fruitful.  Train  and 
regulate  the  terminals  as  required.  The  trees  require  liberal  supplies  of 
water  through  a  good,  but  not  heavy  mulching  of  manure  ;  or  supply  liquid 
manure.  Syringe  twice  a  day  unless  dull,  when  once  suffices,  or  not  that 
when  the  weather  is  close  and  moist,  but  damp  the  paths  and  walls 
occasionally,  and  again  moisten  the  mulching  when  it  becomes  dry.  This 
is  better  than  keeping  it  constantly  saturated.  Ventilate  freely  in  the 
early  part  of  the  day,  but  maintain  a  temperature  of  75°  to  85°  from  sun 
heat  through  the  day,  and  close  with  a  brisk  heat  and  plenty  of  moisture 
about  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of 
60°  to  65°,  and  65°  to  70°  on  dull  days,  with  a  little  ventilation. 
Late  Houses. 
Figs  ripen  one  crop  in  a  season  in  unheated  houses,  but  late  varieties 
require  fire  heat  to  ripen  the  fruit  well.  Negro  Largo  is  one  of  the  beit 
late  Figs.  The  house  must  have  a  full  exposure  to  the  south.  Well 
drained,  narrow,  inside  borders  are  best.  The  growths  should  be  trained 
about  16  inches  from  the  glass.  Prune  the  trees,  and  dress  them  with  an 
insecticide,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  embryonic  Figs  or  br<  ak  the 
points  of  the  shoots.'  Supply  water  so  as  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  soil, 
and  keep  the  trees  dormant  as  long  as  possible  ;  but  when  they  begin 
to  grow  afford  generous  treatment,  admitting  air  soon,  and  closing  early 
in  the  afternoon  so  as  to  husband  the  sun  heat.  Avoid,  however,  a  close 
atmosphere,  as  that  hinders  the  proper  formation  of  the  foliage,  and  too 
hasty  treatment  may  cause  the  fruit  to  fall. 
Raising  Young  Trees. 
This  is  a  good  time  to  propagate  young  plants  from  cuttings.  Select 
shoots  from  5  to  6  inches  in  length,  with  a  heel  of  last  year’s  wood 
attached,  and  lemove  ali  the  eyes  from  the  part  to  be  inserted  in  the 
soil.  This  may  consist  of  good  fibrous  loam  with  a  sixth  of  old  mortar 
rubbish  incorporated.  They  root  freely  in  a  bottom  heat  of  75°  to  80°. 
For  general  purposes  Brown  Turkey  is  the  best  variety,  but  Pingo  de 
Mel  is  a  very  desirable  one,  giving  good  results  in  the  first  crop.  For 
very  early  forcing  Early  Violet  and  St.  John’s  are  excellent  varieties. 
— Grower. 
GROWING  ZINNIAS. 
Procure  seed  of  double  Zinnias  from  a  reliable  firm,  sow  it  at  the 
right  time,  and  give  the  plants  about  half  the  attention  required  to 
prepare  Zonal  Pelargoniums  for  bedding  ;  plant  them  in  a  well  pre¬ 
pared  bed  by  themselves,  and  they  will  repa}'  the  cultivator  with  a 
rich  and  continuous  harvest  of  bloom,  by  the  side  of  which  Pelar¬ 
goniums  will  be  tame  and  carpet  bedding  flat.  Not  only  so,  he  will 
ba  able  to  ‘‘  cut  and  come  again,”  for  lew  flowers  last  so  well  when 
cut  as  Zinnias,  and  if  arranged  so  as  to  take  off  their  rather  stiff  for¬ 
mality'  I  hey  are  very  effective  for  dressing  flower  stands. 
At  first  sight  it  seems  surprising  that  plants  of  this  nature  are  not 
more  largely  grown,  but  is  it  not  a  fact  that  many  beautiful  easily 
grown  plants  and  flowers  have  often  to  give  place  to  those  which  are 
much  more  difficult  and  expensive  to  grow,  but  which,  in  many  cases, 
are  far  less  effective  and  profitable  ?  The  reason  is  not  tar  to  seek, 
for  it  is  often  because  they  are  easily  managed  that  they  are  left  to 
themselves  until  what  should  have  been  a  grand  display  becomes  an 
eyesore,  such  <is  a  Zinnia,  for  instance,  with  a  small  solitary  flower  on 
the  top  of  a  thin  nearly  leafless  stem,  which  requires  a  stake  to  prev'mt 
it  falling 
I  have  tried  every  phase  of  bedding — carpet,  subtropical,  succulent, 
ribbon  borders,  and  mixed  beds,  but  although  all  have  done  well,  none 
has  been  so  much  admired  as  a  bed  of  Zinnias  ;  indi  ed,  although  they 
were  far  less  trouble  and  expense  to  prepare  I  had  nothing  to  equal  them 
either  for  use  or  beauty.  The  seeds  were  sown  on  a  slight  hotbed  early 
in  April,  the  plants  were  pricked  off  into  a  cold  frame  in  May,  and 
planted  on  a  large  circular  bed  6  inches  apart  (they  should  have  been 
9  inches  apart)  in  June,  where  from  the  first  week  in  July  they  formed 
a  rich  mass  containing  many  shades  and  colours  of  bloom. 
For  the  guidance  of  beginners  1  will  give  more  detailed  instruc¬ 
tion  on  the  cultivation  of  Zinnias,  which  may  be  safely  applied  to 
many  beautiful  annuals.  Those  having  frames  or  other  means  of  pro¬ 
tection  should  make  a  slight  hotbed  with  leaves  or  well  sweetened 
stable  manure  the  first  week  in  April.  The  frame  may  be  placed  on 
the  bed  as  soon  as  made,  and  6  inches  of  compost,  consisting  of  equal 
parts  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  laid  over  the  bed  inside  the  frame, 
and  should  be  well  pressed  down.  Draw  dri'ls  3  inches  apart  and 
1  inch  deep,  in  which  the  seeds  should  be  thinly  sown  and  covered  with 
fine  light  soil  sifted  for  the  purpose.  If  each  colour  be  kept  separate 
and  duly  labelled  it  will  be  of  great  advantage,  as  then  the  colours  can 
be  more  artistically  arranged  in  their  permanent  quarters. 
The  light  should  be  kept  closed  until  the  seedlings  appear  through  the 
soil,  when  on  every  favourable  opportunity  they  must  have  a  little  air 
until  they  are  in  rough  leaf,  after  which  on  warm  days  remove  the  light, 
the  object  being  to  produce  strong  sturdy  plants.  Through  Apnl  and 
May,  however,  we  often  have  hot  sunshine  with  cold  winds.  On  no 
account  must  the  light  come  off  on  such  occasions,  but  give  a  little  ven¬ 
tilation,  or  if  very  rough  and  cold  keep  the  frame  closed.  Plenty  of  air 
will  get  under  the  glass  to  prevent  injury,  but  if  the  sun  be  very  hot  a 
slight  shade  will  be  better  than  admitting  the  cold  wind.  Set  the  frame 
on  a  hard  base,  put  in  2  inches  of  leaves  and  9  inches  of  the  following 
compost— three  parts  of  loam,  one  part  leaf  mould,  one  part  Mushroom  bed 
refuse,  and  one  part  sand,  thoroughly  mixed  and  pressed  down  farmly. 
Carefully  prick  off  the  seedling  plants  into  this  frame  4  inches  apart, 
giving  a  good  watering  with  warm  water  through  a  rose  can.  Keep  them 
close  and  shaded  from  sunshine  for  a  few  days,  then  admit  a  little  air, 
gradually  increasing  it  until  the  light  can  be  removed  through  the  day 
which  may  be  done  in  about  fourteen  days  after  pricking  off.  1  he  last 
week  in  May  the  light  should  be  left  off  day  and  night,  always  rememuer- 
ing  what  has  been  said  about  cold  winds,  for  they  sometimes  pay  us  their 
unwelcome  visits  far  into  June.  u  i  * 
The  first  or  second  week  in  June,  according  to  the  weather,  the  plants 
should  be  transferred  to  their  flowering  quarters,  which  to  do  them 
justice  must  be  a  well  manured,  deeply  dug  bed,  but  of  course  plants  pre¬ 
pared  as  above  will  make  a  grand  display  in  mixed  beds  or  borders  it  not 
too  much  smothered  by  neighbours.  Give  the  plants  i"  l^e  frame  a 
good  watering  a  few  hours  before  lifting  them  ;  they  will  t  en 
clumps  of  earth,  and  may  be  transplanted  without  any  check  if  carefully 
handled.  Plant  them  9  inches  apart,  arrange  the  colours  according  to  taste, 
and  give  a  good  watering  to  settle  the  soil  round  the  roots  ;  the  cuUivator 
will  then,  in  due  time,  be  rewarded  with  a  rich  and  continuous  display  of 
large  flowers  and  a  general  effect  such  as  is  seldom  produced  by  plants  re¬ 
quiring  a  more  troublesome  and  costly  preparation.  I  ^  me  es  o 
cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  or  the  sifted  material  of  a  spent  Mushroom  bed, 
be  laid  over  the  soil  it  will  keep  the  roots  cool  and  moist,  save  much 
watering,  and  benefit  the  plants  considerably.  ^ 
The  following  annuals  may  be  grown  to  perfection  if  treated  accord¬ 
ing  to  the  above  directions,  only,  being  for  the  most  part  hardier,  they 
may  be  planted  out  earlier,  and  the  smaller  growing  ones  ^oser 
together  Asters,  Ten-week-Stocks,  Helichrysums  Salpiglossis,  Petu- 
niL,  Phlox  Drummor.di,  and  Portulacas,  all  of  which  will  richly  reward 
the  cultivator  if  liberally  treated. — R.  J. 
