:226 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  16,  1899 
Plants  for  Back  Walls  of  Vineries  (_R.  L.). — We  do  not  know  of  any 
plants  better  suited  for  the  back  walls  of  vineries  than  Camellias,  which 
you  mention.  They  will  succeed  well  in  the  border  18  inches  wide  and 
deep,  only  take  care  to  provide  ample  drainage.  The  compost  must  be 
rough— that  is,  fibrous,  tearing  up  and  rejecting  the  fine.  It  is  also 
advisable  to  use  some  charcoal  in  the  compost  to  keep  it  sweet,  and  sharp 
sand  liberally  to  insure  porosity, 
lasiandra,  or  Pleroma  macrantha  (T.  P.  Bridge). — Cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  shoots  root  readily  in  a  close  frame  in  the  stove  at  rlmost  any 
time  of  year  when  they  can  be  obtained,  but  the  summer  is  the  best. 
The  plant  thrives  in  a  compost  of  three  parts  turfy  loam  and  one  part 
leaf  soil  or  well  decayed  manure,  with  one-sixth  of  sharp  sand,  and  about 
half  as  much  of  charcoal.  It  does  not  require  a  large  amount  of  root 
room  for  the  size  of  the  plant,  which  is  of  a  somewhat  straggling  habit, 
and  for  covering  a  pillar  or  a  rafter  in  a  cool  stove  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  plants  we  have.  It  flowers  inost  profusely  when  in  a  large 
state.  A  season  of  rest  should  be  allowed  in  winter,  but  not  so  as  to 
cause  the  leaves  to  fall,  affording  plenty,  but  not  an  excessive,  amount  of 
water  during  the  summer.  It  should  be  cut  in,  if  at  all,  after  flowering, 
this  taking  place  in  the  winter  time. 
Pruning  Variegated  Box  and  Yew  (0.  P.).— The  Variegated  Box 
may  be  cut  in  as  much  as  you  like  and  it  will  break  again  ;  likewise  the 
Variegated  Yew,  operatingin  either  case  towards  theendof  April.  In  neither 
case  however,  is  it  desirable  to  remove  more  than  irregularities  of  growth, 
so  as  to  secure  symmetrical  and  evenly  balanced  bushes  where  there  is 
room  for  them  to  grow.  Our  remarks  had  reference  to  overgrown  bushes, 
and  if  yours  are  such  cut  them  back  as  much  as  necessary  and  they  will 
break  "again  and  form  compact  growth,  and  afterwards  they  may  be 
clipped  annually  if  so  desired.  See  page  228  for  reply  to  your  question  on 
poultry. 
Kemoving  Rhododendron  Flower  Buds  {Idem). — It  is  an  excellent 
practice  to  ‘-nip”  off  the  flower  buds  before  flowering  when  the  plants 
are  weakly,  but  better  still  to  give  them  a  top-dressing  of  cow  manure, 
not  too  fresh  or  more  than  half  decayed.  It  gives  a  deep  green  colour 
and  freer  growth  ;  indeed,  it  is  poverty  the  plants  are  suffering  from. 
The  best  time  for  pruning  old  branches  is  the  end  of  April  during  moist, 
mild  weather. 
Seakale  Beds  {N.  B.'). — The  beds  should  be  prepared  without  delay, 
stirring  the  ground  deeply  and  manuring  liberally.  They  must  be  4  feet 
wide  with  2  feet  alleys  between.  Select  one-year-old  plants,  place  three 
triangularly  in  a  patch  1  foot  from  each  side  of  the  bed  and  2  feet  from 
patch  to  patch,  and  the  three  plants  in  each  exactly  6  inches  apart. 
Plant  so  that  the  crowns  are  just  level  with  the  surface.  You  will  then 
have  two  rows  of  plants  in  patches  2  feet  every  way  from  centre  to  centre 
in  a  bed,  and  the  planting  should  be  done  at  the  end  of  Alarch  or  begin¬ 
ning  of  April.  If  kept  clean  and  not  allowed  to  flower  they  will  form 
crowns  for  forcing  on  the  ground  next  winter.  Seeds  may  be  sown  if  you 
prefer  in  rings  6  inches  in  diameter,  making  the  drill  an  inch  deep,  and 
in  this  place  the  seeds  3  inches  asunder  and  cover  with  fine  soil.  When 
up  and  growing  freely  remove  all  but  three  plants  in  a  patch,  always 
retaining  the  most  promising.  The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  April. 
The  plants  may  be  forced  next  winter. 
Forcing  Roses  {B.  A). —It  occurs  to  us  that  when  you  say  your 
“  Mai^chal  Niels  suffered  from  aniicipation  of  proper  root  action,”  and 
the  fact  that  the  plants  are  growing  in  side  borders  of  your  Rose  house, 
that  you  mean  the  wood  was  excited  by  artificial  heat  before  the  roots 
could  supply  enough  sap  to  keep  the  growths  going  freely.  Strong 
growing  Roses  planted  in  side  borders  will  soon  have  a  large  number  of 
their  most  important  roots  in  the  soil  outside  of  the  house.  We  think  you 
omitted  to  cover  this  with  a  good  protection  of  loose  litter,  such  as 
heather  gorse,  or  even  mats,  which  would  be  a  great  help  when  starting 
the  plants  early  in  January.  We  have  carefully  considered  your 
difficulty,  and  also  reperused  the  replies,  and  can  now  think  of  no  other 
probable  cause.  Y^ou  cannot  expect  roots  in  cold,  and  possibly  frozen 
ground,  to  keep  pace  with  the  other  part  of  a  plant  that  is  in  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  from  13'^  to  22^  above  freezing  point,  and  more  especially  so  in  the 
case  of  several  degrees  of  frost  outside,  which  we  so  often  get  at  the  date 
you  commenced. 
Age  of  Lily  of  the  Valley  Crowns  {Suhscriher'). — It  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  tell  the  age  after  the  crowns  attain  to  flowering  size,  but  a 
one-year-old  crown  has  no  ring  below  the  bud,  though  it  generally  shows 
where  the  leaf  sheaths  have  girdled.  As  you  are  no  doubt  aware, 
crowns  are  formed  on  the  runners  or  underground  wires  without  any  top 
growth,  hence,  as  there  were  no  leaves  there  could  be  no  leaf  sheath 
rings.  Some  call  such  a  one-year  crown,  because  it  has  been  formed  in 
the  previous  year,  but  it  is  only  an  adventitious  bud.  This  the  following 
summer  will  produce  leaves,  nothing  else,  and  if  examined  in  the  winter 
will  have  a  distinct  ring  on  the  root-stem  just  below’  the  bud  or  crown. 
It  is  properly  but  one  year  old,  though  often  called  two,  and  may  or  may 
not  produce  flowers  the  following  season.  If  left  alone  or  transplanted  it 
will  give  another  ring  on  the  root-wire  as  in  the  preceding  season,  but 
higher  up — that  is,  nearer  the  crown,  which  has  advanced  accordingly. 
It  is  two-year-old  as  clearly  indicated  by  the  two  rings  corresponding  to 
the  respective  years’  growth.  Such  two- ringed  crowns  will  usually  flower 
strongly  the  following  season,  either  indoors  or  outside.  If  the  latter,  it 
will  again  form  another  ring,  and  so  on  year  by  year  indefinitely.  Now 
for  your  specimens.  No.  1  range  in  our  opinion  from  five  to  seven  years 
old,  and  have  apparently  been  weakened  by  flowering  in  previous  years. 
No.  2  appear  from  three  to  five  years  old,  but  only  one  the  latter,  and 
they  have  not  been  weakened  by  flowering  in  former  seasons. 
Specimens — Rhubarb  {Yovng  Gardener). — The  Crotons  were  all  dead 
and  unrecognisable,  due  entirely  to  misdirection.  Rhubarb  is  neither  a 
fruit  nor  a  vegetable,  but  when  exhibited  is  frequently  classed  as  a 
“fruit”  because  its  stalks  are  used  for  tarts,  pies,  and  puddings,  never  in 
any  form  cooked  as  a  vegetable.  Please  read  rules  above  before  sending 
ugain. 
Conifers  not  Healthy  {Scotland). — The  spray  certainly  shows  no  trace 
of  ill  health.  Y  e  should  confine  any  pruning  to  shortening  straggling 
growth,  so  as  to  impart  symmetry  and  compactness.  Nothing  answers 
better  for  these  trees  than  a  top-dressing  of  turfy  loam  with  one-third  of 
leaf  mould  or  old  cow  manure,  not  applying  more  than  a  couple  of  inches 
thickness  from  the  stem  outwards  as  far  as  the  branches  extend.  Now  is 
the  best  time  for  cutting  away  dead  branches,  or  if  frosty  defer  until  April. 
Growing  Mushrooms  in  Trenches  ( W.  Y.  G.). — There  is  no  book 
that  treats  separately  of  this  mode  of  culture,  but  the  directions  given  in 
“Mushrooms  for  the  Million  ’’  could  be  easily  adapted.  There  have  been 
several  contrivances  for  doing  away  with  glass  for  growing  Cucumbers 
and  Melons.  The  transparent  papers  we  have  seen  in  use  have  not  been 
very  satisfactory.  Perhaps  we  have  not  seen  the  improved  article. 
Inventors  should  advertise,  or  perhaps  some  correspondent  will  give 
readers  the  benefit  of  their  experience. 
Watercress  in  Boxes  for  a  Pool  {Constant  Reader). — Watercress  may  be 
grown  in  boxes,  but  preferably  in  pans,  which  are  less  liable  to  get  out 
of  erder  than  w’ooden  boxes.  Whether  boxes  or  pans  are  used  they 
should  have  openings  at  the  bottom,  and  be  drained  similar  to  those  for 
land  plants  with  potsherds,  placing  in  from  4  to  6  inches  depth  of 
good  loamy  soil.  Well  rooted  young  offsets  should  be  planted 
about  6  inches  apart,  and  the  boxes  or  pans  so  placed  in  the  water  that 
their  edges  or  soil  will  not  be  covered  with  water  more  than  an  inch  or  two. 
The  green-leaved  variety  grows  the  freest,  and  we  think  harbours  most 
insects,  but  the  large  brown-leaved  is  the  best  in  flavour. 
Anemone  (A'.  D). — The  Anemone  flower  appears  to  be  one  of  the 
many  varieties  of  the  Chrysanthemum-flowered  called  Chapeau  du 
Cardinal,  the  tubers  of  which  may  be  planted  early  in  October,  about 
6  inches  apart  and  3  inches  deep,  when,  the  varieties  being  mixed,  they 
make  a  splendid  display.  After  flowering,  the  tubers  should  be  lifted, 
dried,  and  stored  away  in  a  cool  place  in  sand.  For  flowering  in  pots 
they  should  be  potted  in  September  in  a  compost  of  two  parts  turfy  loam 
and  one  part  leaf  soil,  with  a  sixth  of  sharp  sand.  Place  in  a  frame  and 
introduce  to  heat— a  greenhouse  temperature — in  November  or  December, 
We  are  not  aware  that  it  can  be  had  in  flower  in  January,  but  it  is  well 
worth  trial. 
“  Fever  Fly  ”  on  Let.uce  Root  Stems  {J.  A.).— The  flies  are  certainly 
a  species  of  Dilophus.  The  legless  grubs  accord  with  those  of  D. 
vulgaris,  only  they  are  larger,  as  also  are  the  flies.  The  only  way  to 
make  certain  of  the  identity  of  the  fly  would  be  to  rear  some  of  grubs  and 
have  the  flies  from  the  pupae  cases.  No  doubt  the  manure  would  favour 
the  fly  in  a  dry  season,  but  we  have  had  no  experience  of  the  kind,  though 
suffering  from  the  attacks  of  the  leaser  or  spotted  crane  fly,  Tipula 
maculosa,  to  a  serious  extent.  For  this  we  found  a  dressing  of  gas  lime 
advantageous,  and  it  acts  well  on  Dilophus,  which  in  the  larval  state  bears 
a  close  resemblance  to  the  grubs  of  the  smaller  crane  fly  larvse,  but  is  not 
more  than  half  the  size.  The  preventives  given  in  the  issue  of 
February  16th  are  the  most  successful  we  have  tried. 
Names  of  Plants. — We  only  undertake  to  name  species  of  cultivated 
plants,  not  wild  flowers,  or  varieties  that  have  originated  from  seeds  and 
termed  florists’  flowers.  Flowering  specimens  are  necessary  of  flowering 
plants,  and  Fern  fronds  should  bear  spores.  Specimens  should  arrive  in 
a  fresh  state  in  securely  tied  firm  boxes.  Thin  paper  boxes  arrive  in  a 
flattened  state.  Slightly  damp  moss,  soft  green  grass,  or  leaves  form  the 
best  packing,  dry  wool  or  paper  the  worst.  Those  arrive  in  the  best 
condition  that  are  so  closely  or  firmly  packed  in  soft  green  fresh  grass,  as 
to  remain  unmoved  by  shaking.  No  specimens  should  be  sent  to  rest  in 
the  post  office  over  Sunday,  on  which  day  there  is  no  delivery  of  postal 
matter  in  London.  Specimens  in  partially  filled  boxes  are  invariably 
injured  or  spoiled  by  being  dashed  to  and  fro  in  transit.  Not  more  than 
six  specimens  can  be  named  at  once,  and  the  numbers  should  be  visible 
without  untying  the  ligatures,  it  being  often  difficult  to  separate  them 
when  the  paper  is  damp.  {J.  P.). — Galax  aphylla.  ( T.  H.  B.). — The 
light  coloured  flower  is  Orchis  tridentata  ;  the  dark  one  is  Orchis  longi- 
corm.  {H.  M.). — 1,  Acacia  cordata  ;  2,  a  Euonymus,  probably  latifolius 
variegata,  but  specimen  rather  too  small  for  positive  identification. 
(A.  W.  P.). — 1,  Libonia  floribunda  ;  2,  Cymbidiom  eburneum  ;  3,  dead, 
4,  Euonymus  radicans  variegata.  (F.  B.). —  1,  Celsia  cretica  ;  2,  Iris 
fimbriata  ;  3,  Anthericum  variegatum. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co.,  Philadelphia, — Seeds  That  Grow. 
H.  Cannell  &  Sons,  Swanley.  —  Floral  Guide. 
Cooper,  Taber  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  90,  Southwark  Street,  S.E. —  Wholesale 
List. 
E.  P.  Dixon  &  Sons,  Hull. — Farm  Seeds. 
Ellwanger  &  Barry,  Mount  Hope  Nurseries,  Rochester,  N.Y'. — Trees 
and  Shrubs. 
A.  Perry,  Wmchraore  Hill,  N. — Hardy  Plants. 
F,  R.  Pierson  &  Co.,  Tarrytown-on-Hudson,  New  York. — Seeds. 
