March  23,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
24.> 
may  be  put  into  their  flowering  pots  at  the  commencement.  By  practising 
the  latter  method  a  saving  of  time  is  eflFocted,  and  they  do  equally  well. 
Stand  the  pots  in  a  light  but  shaded  position,  and  apply  water  sparingly 
until  the  roots  have  taken  possession  of  the  soil,  when  they  will  rerlUife 
an  abundant  supply,  and  the  application  of  liquid  manure  once  a  week 
will  be  ot  great  benefit  to  them.  Syringe  well  every  dhy  to  prevent  an 
attack  of  thrips  or  red  spidet*.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  Gloxinia 
is  a  shade  and  moisture  loving  plant,  and  card' should  be  taken  that  these 
essentials  are  supplied. 
In  addition  to  potting  the  old  tubers  successionally,  the  season,  of 
flowering  may  be  still  further  prolonged  if  young  plants  are  raised  from 
seed  each  year,  as  these  under  suitable  management  will  form  a  succeasidn 
to  the  old  plants.  Seeds  may  be  Sown  dn  February  or  March  in  Well- 
drained  jiots  in  a  light  sandy  compost ;  edver  very  thinly,  place  a  sijuarc 
of  glass  over  the  pots,  and  plunge  in  a  bottom  heat  of  80“  ;  keep  them 
very  moist  and  shaded  until  the  seeds  have  germinated.  When  the  seed¬ 
lings  are  large  enough  to  handle  prick  them  oil  into  pans,  in  a  edmpost 
similar  to  that  in  wiiich  the  seed  was  sown,  replacing  again  in  bottom 
heat,  so  as  to  encourage  them  to  make  as  much  growth  as  possible. 
Before  the  young  plants  become  crowded  place  them  into  small  pots, 
using  a  compost  as  recommended  for  the  old  tubers  ;  put  them  in  the 
stove,  as  near  to  the  glass  as  possible  to  prevent  them  becoming  drawn 
and  weakly,  and  shade  from  sunshine  ;  when  they  have  made  sufficient 
growth  transfer  them  to  their  flowering  pots,  4-inch  pots  being  quite 
large  enough. 
As  the  leaves,  both  of  the  young  and  old  plants,  begin  to  turn  yellow, 
water  should  bo  gradually  withheld,  but  they  must  not  be  dried  too 
rapidly.  When  all  the  leaves  have  died  the  tubers  may  be  taken  from 
the  pots,  freed  from  soil,  and  stored  in  boxes  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or 
sand  in  any  dry  place,  with  an  even  temperature  of  about  55°  ;  or  they 
may  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  jiots,  which  should  be  laid  on  their  sides 
under  the  stage  of  the  greenhouse  or  stove.  They  must  not,  however,  bo 
allowed  to  get  wet,  or  the  tubers  will  either  decay  or  start  prematurely 
into  growth,  and  such  a  state  of  things  should  be  carefully  guarded 
against. — S.  P. 
WOKK.foi\.theWEEK.. 
U 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  ffonses. — Colouring  will  shortly  be  proceeding  in  the 
very  early  started  houses.  To  insure  well  developed  berries  afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid  manure,  and  mulch  the  border  at  once 
with  an  inch  or  two  of  partially  decayed  manure,  preferably 
rather  lumpy.  Stable  litter,  having  the  strawy  portions  shaken  out, 
thrown  into  a  heap,  and  when  commencing  to  heat  turned  over  twice, 
forms  excellent  mulching  material.  This  will  give  a  stimulus  to  the 
roots  and  secure  healthy  toliage,  while  the  moisture  will  be  sufficient,  in 
most  cases,  for  the  X'ines  until  the  Grapes  are  cut,  but  they  must  not 
lack  water  at  the  roots,  as  this  will  cause  the  premature  ripening  of  the 
wood  and  the  loss  of  the  principal  leaves,  which  may  induce  fresh  growth 
when  the  Vines  should  be  going  to  rest.  Damping  the  house  must  be 
continued  until  the  berries  are  well  advanced  in  colouring,  after  which 
reduce  the  moisture  gradually,  and  insure  a  circulation  of  warm  air  day 
and  night  by  regulating  the  ventilation  judiciously.  The  temperature 
should  be  maintained  at  70°  to  75°  in  the  daytime,  with  a  rise  of  10°  to 
15°  from  sun  heat,  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  during  the  night  to 
(i5°,  or  even  60°. 
Vines  in  Flower. — Afford  a  circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air,  and  a 
temperature  of  65“  to  70°  at  night  for  Black  Ilamburghs  and  similar 
varieties,  and  70°  to  75°  for  Muscats.  The  extra  warmth  draws  out  the 
bunches,  aids  the-  develoiunont  of  the  flowers,  and  the  potency  of  the 
pollen.  Muscats  and  other  shy-setting  varieties  should  be  brushed  over 
with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  about  the  time  the  blossom  is  fully  expanded, 
so  as  to  rid  the  stigmas  of  the  caps  and  glutinous  substance,  choosing  a 
warm  part  of  the  day  after  the  house  has  been  freely  ventilated.  This 
will  render  them  fitted  for  fertilisation,  which  should  be  effected  by 
brushing  them  over  with  a  brush  surcharged  with  pollen  taken  from  such 
free-setting  sorts  as  Black  Hamburgh  and  Alicante. 
Succession  Houses — Disbudding. is  not  good  practice  to  attempt  this 
until  the  bunches  aiijiear  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  then  it  ought 
not  to  bo  done  in  a  hurry,  or  a  large  reduidion  be  made  at  one  time. 
Proceed  gradually  and  with  determination,  so  as  to  give  as  little  check 
to  the  Vines  as  possible.  Retain  no  more  shoots  than  can  have  the  full 
benefit  of  light,  as  crowding  is  one  of  the  greatest  evils  in  Vine  culture. 
Allow  for  the  due  extension  of  the  laterals,  for  on  this  depends  sustained 
root  activity  till  the  crop  is  perfected. 
Stopping  the  Growths. — The  bearing  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  extend 
in  accordance  to  the  space.  If  this  is  limited,  the  Vines  being  close,  the 
shoot  may  be  pinched  at  the  first  joint  beyond  the  bunch,  and  this  should 
be  done  when  the  leaf  at  the  joint  is  the  size  of  a  penny.  If  there  is  a 
moderate  space  between  the  rodsj  allow  two  joints  beyond  the  show  fot 
fruit.  When  there  is  abundance  of  room  allow  the  shoots  with  fruit  to 
extend  three  or  four  leaves  beyond  the  bunches  before  taking  out  their 
points,  doing  this  when  the  leaf  at  the  stopping  joint  is  the  size  of  to 
farthing.  Laterals  will  push  from  the  joints  both  above  and  below  the 
bunches.  Those  below  may  be  rubbed  off  except  from  the  two  lowest 
leaves,  which  should  bo  pinched  at  the  first  joint ;  or  if  there  is  a  good 
distance  between  the  spurs  on  the  rods  all  the  laterals  below  the  bunch 
may  remain,  pinching  to  one  leaf.  But  laterals  above  the  bunch  may 
either  be  pinched  to  one  joint,  or  allowed  to  extend  until  available  space 
is  fairly  furnished  ;  then  pinch,  and  keep  them  within  bounds  afterwards 
by  stopping  to  one  joint  as  made. 
Thinning. — This  is  a  very  important  operation  both  as  regards  the 
bunches  artd  berries.  Remove  all  superfluous  and  duplicate  bunches- 
before  they  flower.  Setting  depends  on  the  good  form  of  the  bum  h,  and 
on  its  receiving  the  essentials  of  fertilisation.  Free  setting  varieties  may 
have  the  berries  thinned  as  soon  as  they  are  out  of  flower,  but  Muscats 
and  other  shy-setting  varieties  should  not  be  thinned  until  it  is  seen  which 
berries  have  been  jiroperly  fertilised  by  their  taking  the  lead  in  swelling. 
Fvery  berry  should  have  room  to  swell  without  becoming  wedged,  and 
yet  leave  enough  berries  to  insure  the  bunch  retaining  its  form  when  cut. 
Watering,  Fecdmg,  and  Mulching, — Until  the  Vines  are  in  leaf  they 
reiiuire  very  moderate  supplies  of  water,  sufficient  only  to  keep  the  soil 
moist,  but  when  the  leaves  are  full-sized  the  evaporation  from  them  is 
considerable,  and  from  that  time  until  the  fruit  ripens  they  must  not  lack- 
water  at  the  roots,  It  is  difficult  to  state  how  often  the  borders  will  need 
watering,  through  their  being  so  variable  in  dimension  and  formation.  A, 
narrow  liorder  will  require  watering  twice  as  often  as  one  double  the 
width,  assuming  the  Vines  to  be  equally  extended  and  dropped,  while  a 
border  of  loose  materials  will  need  water  much  more  frequently  than  one 
formed  ot  firm  retentive  loam.  Consequently  the  grower  must  be  guided 
by  the  state  of  the  Vines  in  relation  to  the  rooting  area,  and  ha\e  due 
regard  to  the  weather,  as  water  will  be  required  much  oftener  in  hot,  dry 
weather,  than  when  cold  and  dull.  The  proper  procedure  is  to  examine 
the  border,  and  when  water  is  necessary  give  it  abundantly.  Surface 
dressings  of  artificial  fertilisers  are  of  much  benefit  for  the  health  of  the 
Vines  and  the  swelling  and  perfecting  of  their  crops.  There  are  several 
advertised  which  are  excellent,  and  may  be  applied,  according  to  the 
instructions,  at  intervals  of  three  to  six  weeks.  A  dressing  may  be  given 
as  soon  as  the  Vines  start  into  growth,  a  second  when  they  are  going  out 
ot  blossom,  another  after  the  Grapes  have  been  thitlncd,  a  fourth  during 
stoning,  and  a  final  one  when  the  Grapes  commence  colouring  and  are 
taking  the  last  swelling. 
Liipiid  manure  is  more  prompt  in  action  than  a  top-dressing,  and  may 
be  supplied  whenever  watering  is  re((uired,  taking  care  that  it  is  not  too 
strong,  and  is  warmed  to  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house.  Vines 
restricted  to  narrow  borders  will  need  higher  feeding  than  those  with 
large  rooting  areas,  affording  liquid  manure  whenever  water  is  requisite,, 
but  it  is  well  to  change  the  food  occasionally.  A  mulching  of  short, 
sweet,  lumpy  manure,  as  stable  litter  freed  from  straw,  about  an  inch 
thick,  and  added  to  from  time  to  time,  so  as  to  maintain  that  thicknos.s,  is 
excellent  for  ordinary  borders,  but  those  composed  of  light  jiorous  mate¬ 
rials  should  have  a  mulching  of  well-decayed  manure,  as  it  lies  closer, 
and  the  roots  of  the  Vines  are  attracted  to  it  through  its  retaining 
moisture  better  and  longer.  • 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Globe  Artichokes.— Flants  of  these  not  having  been  crippled  by  frosts 
are  growing  strongly,  and  suckers  are  exceptionally  numerous.  Remove 
the  protecting  material  at  once  and  thin  the  growths  freely,  as  for 
cropping  purposes  three  or  four  strong  ones  to  a  clump  will  do  better 
service  than  greater  numbers.  Under  starvation  treatment  Globe  Arti¬ 
chokes  are  unsatisfactory.  Remove  the  soil,  to  the  extent  of  baring  some 
of  the  root,  to  a  distance  of  not  less  than  15  inches  from  the  st  ms,  and 
after  dressing  heavily  with  decayed  manure,  return  the  soil.  The  next 
best  thing  is  to  mulch  wdth  manure  in  April  or  early  in  May.  d’hese 
Artichokes  may  easily  be  raised  from  seed,  either  in  gentle  heat  now  or 
by  sowing  in  the  open  ground  next  month,  but  rooted  suckers  from, 
ordinary  stocks  are  preferable. 
Asparagus. — A  heavy  covering  of  manure  keeps  the  bods  cold  and 
unduly  moiat.  retarding  growth  accordingly.  Comparatively  dry  strawy 
manure  hovered  over  the  beds  does  not  keep  the  ground  so  cold,  but  yet 
serves  to  protect  the  points  of  the  delicate  shoots,  man}’  of  which  are 
injured  by  frost  just  as  they  are  coming  through  the  ground.  Decayed 
manure  should,  then,  be  carefully  removed,  and  the  surface  of  the  beds 
lightly  loosened  with  forks.  If  the  plants  and  roots  are  very’  near  to  the 
surface  a  top-dressing  of  .3  inches  of  fine  light,  moderately  rich,  soil  will 
act  beneficially.  Where  tho  plants  are  grown  singly — that  is  to  say',  not 
less  than  2  feet  apart— the  finest  shoots  are  jiroduced,  and  if  blanched 
stems  are  desired  a  mound  of  fine  vegetable  mould  should  be  drawn  up 
and  banked  over  each  clump.  It  has  to  be  moved  with  the  hand  when 
the  shoots  are  traced  out  and  cut,  and  returned  after  the  cutting.  Seeds 
may  bo  sown  now,  or  a  fortnight  later,  and  early  next  month  ;  or  just 
when  top  growth  commences  new  beds  may  be  formed  with  young  plant.s. 
Celery. — Plants  resulting  from  seeds  sown  now  in  gentle  heat  should 
maintain  the  supply  till  next  spring.  Standard  Bearer  and  other  known 
hardy  red  or  pink  varieties  are  the  best  for  present  sowing.  Very  early' 
raised  plants  are  best  moved  twice  before  they  are  put  out.  By  the  timo 
these  are  thoroughly  rooted,  beds,  raised  in  preference  to  sinking  trenches, 
should  be  ready  for  their  recejition.  The  finest  exhibition  Celery  is  in 
some  instances  grown  in  raised  beds,  kept  together  by  means  of  stakes  and 
boards.  Tho  plants  are  put  out  in  a  mixture  of  loam,  garden  soil,  manure, 
and  burnbake,  and  the  blanching  eventually  accomplished  by  means  of 
bandages  of  brown  paper.  Celery  forms  a  good  successional  crop  to 
Brussels  Sprouts,  Broccoli,  and  Borecole,  and  as  the  ground  is  cleared  of 
