March  30,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
263 
IIAKDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Grafting  Trait  Trees. — The  most  suitable  period  for  grafting  is 
when  the  sap  has  risen  in  the  stocks,  causing  growth  to  commence.  It 
is  then  certain  that  the  tap  will  continue  active,  and  under  favourable 
conditions  the  success  of  the  operation  of  grafting  will  be  assured. 
Forms  of  Grafting. — The  most  common  forms  of  grafting  are  (he  side 
or  whip  grafting  for  young  stocks,  and  the  crown  or  rind  grafting  for 
stocks  over  an  inch  in  diameter. 
Side  or  Whip  Grafting.  —  With  this  form  of  grafting  the  stock  is  worked 
very  low.  Select  a  point  where  the  bark  is  very  smooth,  and  as  near  to 
the  ground  as  possible.  Cut  off  the  head  of  the  stock  in  a  slanting  direc¬ 
tion,  making  a  clean  cut  about  3  inches  long.  Side  or  whip  grafting 
necessitates  that  the  scion  should  be  of  the  same  thickness  as  the  stock  ; 
therefore,  suitable  healthy  growth  of  last  year  should  be  selected.  It 
must  be  about  6  or  8  inches  in  length  and  have  quite  dormant  buds,  which 
means  that  the  sap  in  the  scions  is  practically  inactive;  The  buds,  too, 
must  be  wood  buds.  In  preparing  the  scions  select  that  part  on  each 
shoot  where  four  of  the  best  buds  are  situated.  This  is  usually  the 
central  part,  where  the  shoot  is  straight,  the  buds  ripe  amt  bold,  and  the 
wood  firm.  Make  a  slanting  cut  downwards  in  the  scion  of  the  same 
length  as  that  in  the  stock.  Unite  both  closely  and  evenly  and  secure 
firm/y.  Cover  the  parts  with  clay  or  grafting  wax,  and  soil  may  be 
heaped  round  if  the  working  is  carried  out  close  to  the  ground. 
Crown  or  Rind  Grafting.  —  Large  old  trees  headed  down  some  time 
ago  may  now  have  a  fresh  slice  taken  off  in  readiness  for  grafting.  It  is 
an  excellent  method  of  placing  good  varieties  on  clean  healthy  stocks. 
The  bark  must  be  smooth.  Select  well-ripened,  short-jointed  scions,  cut 
from  the  central  parts  of  last  season’s  shoots.  Four  buds  ought  to  be 
present  on  each.  Make  a  slit  downwards  in  the  bark  of  the  stock,  just 
through  the  bark.  Cut  the  scion  the  same  length  as  the  slit  in  the  stock, 
making  a  clean  slanting  cut  downwards  ;  and  at  the  upper  edge  form  a 
small  shoulder  for  resting  upon  the  stock,  which  will  keep  it  securely  in 
position.  Insert  the  scions  carefully,  and  work  them  into  position  until 
the  shoulder  rests  upon  the  flat  surface  of  the  stock.  Several  scions  may 
be  placed  on  large  branches,  and  the  lot  tied  in  together,  using  some  soft 
ligature.  The  parts  must  meet  as  exactly  as  possible,  in  order  that  a 
good  union  may  be  effected.  Cover  all  the  joinings  with  grafting  wax, 
also  the  top  of  the  stock,  so  that  air  will  be  excluded  and  the  parts  kept 
moist.  The  retention  of  moisture  about  the  parts  is  facilitated  if  moss  is 
tied  round  and  occasionally  wetted. 
Grafting  Wax. — As  a  rule  grafting  wax  should  be  used  warm.  One 
part  each  of  resin  and  yellow  wax  should  be  melted  iu  an  earthen  pot 
over  a  fire  and  used  warm,  but  not  hot  so  as  to  injure  the  bark.  Wax 
which  may  be  used  cold  is  very  convenient  and  is  made  as  follows  : — 
1  lb.  each  of  yellow  wax  and  turpentine  ;  ^  lb.  of  Burgundy  jiitch,  and 
5  lb.  of  mutton  suet.  Melt  and  mix  thoroughly,  allowing  to  cool.  It  is 
best  formed  into  small  balls  to  be  handy  for  use. 
Watering  Fruit  Borders. — The  soil  of  the  borders  close  to  the  wall  in 
which  fruit  trees  are  growing,  especially  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots, 
Cherries,  and  Plums,  is  often  much  drier  in  spring  than  it  ought  to  be, 
hence  it  is  not  surprising  that  later  on  in>ects  will  abound,  including  the 
numerous  species  of  the  aphis  family  and  red  spider.  These  do  immense 
damage  and  cripple  the  foliage,  so  that  it  cannot  perform  its  functions  of 
building  up  the  buds  for  next  season.  Examination  of  the  borders  ought 
occasionally  to  be  made,  winter  as  well  as  summer,  and  in  mild  periods 
during  the  former  teason  water  and  liquid  manure  may  be  fieely  applied. 
At  the  present  time  a  copious  sujiply  of  clear  water  to  the  borders  that  are 
at  all  dry,  would  be  estremely  beneficial.  Unless  the  surface  is  full  of 
roots  the  top  layer  of  soil  may  be  removed  down  to  the  roots,  so  that  a 
fair  sized  dish  is  formed  which  will  hold  plenty  of  water.  Fill  this  several 
times  with  clear  water,  and  afterwards  with  liquid  manure.  Close  to  the 
wall  must  necessarily  be  the  driest  part,  so  water  should  reach  there 
freely. 
Top  dressing  Wall  Trees. — After  well  moistening  at  the  roots  the 
soil  must  be  returned,  but  it  that  removed  was  poor  and  exhausted  it  will 
be  desirable  to  supply  fresh  material.  For  stone  fruit  trees  make  up  a 
compost  consisting  of  substantial  loam,  adding  one-fifth  of  wood  ashes, 
a  good  sprinkling  of  crushed  mortar  rubbish  ana  ci  ushed  bones.  Mix 
thoroughly  and  place  firmly  over  the  roots  as  far  as  they  extend.  Manure, 
even  if  well  decomposed,  should  be  used  sparingly  in  the  preparation  of 
any  compost.  A  little  will  improve  poor  lo-tm,  and  benefit  old  trees  which 
require  stimulating.  The  growth  of  young  trees,  however,  needs  sub¬ 
duing,  and  not  increasing  by  manure  in  the  soil.  It  is  safe  to  apply 
a  rich  compost  over  the  roots  of  heavily  cropping  Apples  and  Pears,  or 
when'  the  growth  is  weakly  and  requires  to  be  improved. 
Strawberries. — Strawberries  may  yet  be  planted,  but  strong  plants 
should  be  placed  out,  if  possible  with  balls  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots. 
Those  which  are  not  thus  furnished  must  have  the  roots  spread  out  in  the 
soil.  Plant  in  firm  ground,  give  water  in  dry  weather,  and  mulch  lightly. 
A  dressing  of  soot,  a  peck  to  the  rod,  may  now  be  given  to  fruiting  plants 
two  or  three  years  old.  After  that  application  give  a  mulching  of  rich 
manure  between  the  plants.  A  mixture  of  long  and  short  manure 
combined  is  the  best. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Shade  will  be  necessary  from  bright  sun  during  the 
prevalence  of  keen  northerly  winds,  as  air  can  only  be  given  very 
moderately.  The  shading,  however,  should  only  be  used  for  a  few 
hours  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  and  only  sufficient  to  prevent 
flagging.  Assist  plants  in  full  bearing  with  ajiplications  of  weak  tepid 
liquid  manure,  and  add  fresh  warmed  soil  to  the  beds  occasionally. 
Thin  out  the  exhausted  growths  of  plants  that  have  been  in  bearing 
some  time,  and  encourage  fresh  bearing  shoots.  Damp  the  floor  in 
the  morning  between  seven  and  eight  o'clock,  and  again  in  the  afternoon 
about  three  o’clock,  syringing  the  foliage  gently  on  warm  afternoons, 
and  keep  liquid  manure  in  the  evaporation  troughs.  Attend  to  stop¬ 
ping,  th.nning  and  training  at  least  once  a  week.  Maintain  a  night 
temperature  of  70°  to  75°;  by  day,  80°  to  90°  with  sun,  and  close  suffi¬ 
ciently  early  to  maintain  the  latter  degree,  or  even  rise  to  95°  or  100°, 
with  an  abundance  of  atmospheric  moisture. 
Pits  and  Frames, — Maintain  the  requisite  heat  by  renewing  the  linings. 
Train  the  growths  rather  thinly,  pegging  them  down  as  required,  and 
stop  one  joint  beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  or  the  leading  growths  12  to 
18  inches  from  the  sides  of  the  frame.  Add  fresh  warmed  soil  to  the 
ridges  or  hillocks  as  the  roots  extend.  Be  moderate  in  the  application 
of  water,  as  the  nights  are  cold,  and  employ  thick  night  coverings. 
Admit  a  little  air  early,  so  as  to  have  the  foliage  dry  before  the  sun 
acts  powerfully  upon  it.  The  heat  through  the  day  may  range  from 
80°  to  90°  with  sun.  Close  early  in  the  afternoon,  no  harm  accruing 
if  the  temperature  rise  to  90°  or  even  100°,  provided  there  is  no  rank 
steam.  If  there  is  danger  from  it  admit  a  little  air  constantly,  a  small 
opening  being  sufficient  to  allow  it  to  escape. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Houses. — The  very  early 
varieties  will  soon  give  indications  of  ripening,  when  syringing  must 
cease,  and  the  leaves  that  shade  the  fruit  should  be  drawn  aside,  raising 
the  fruit,  if  necessary,  on  laths  placed  across  the  trellis  wires,  so  that  its 
apex  will  be  directly  to  the  light.  Do  not  hurry  successional  varieties 
during  the  stoning  process,  but  continue  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  at 
night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  with  sun  heat,  and  65°  by  day  in  dull  weather, 
avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  and  depressions.  Tie  the  shoots  to  the 
trellis  as  they  advance,  and  regulate  the  growths  for  future  bearing  so  as 
not  to  have  them  too  crowded.  Shoots  disposed  to  grow  more  than 
14  inches  may  have  the  points  pinched  off,  but  extensions  .should  bo 
trained  in  their  full  length.  When  the  stoning  is  over  the  crop  will 
require  thinning  for  the  final  swelling.  Very  vigorous  trees  may  he 
allowed  to  carry  more  than  one  fruit  to  each  square  foot  of  trellis,  while 
weaker  trees  should  not  be  permitted  to  bear  so  many.  Supply  liquid 
manure  to  weakly  trees,  the  inside  border  in  any  case  being  kept  properly 
watered,  mulching  the  surface  with  a  little  decayed  manure.  This  will 
secure  uniform  moisture,  and  favour  the  surface  roots. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  fruit  should  bo  regulated  to  a  few 
more  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop.  Avoid  sudden  checks  by 
judicious  ventilation,  cold  air  and  a  light  temperature  at  night  proving 
fatal  to  the  fruit  stoning.  A  night  temperature  of  60°  to  6.5°,  5°  less  on 
cold  nights,  and  65°  by  day  in  dull  weather,  with  70°  to  75°  from  sun 
heat,  is  quite  sufficient.  Of  course  the  temperature  will  run  higher  on 
bright  days,  but  let  it  be  with  full  ventilation. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  February. — Syringe  the  trees  occasionally  in  dull 
weather,  and  twice  a  day  in  bright,  but  avoid  heavy  syringings,  e.^pe- 
cially  late  in  the  afternoon,  as  the  water  remaining  long  on  the  foliage 
interferes  with  the  elaborating  functions,  and  may  destroy  the  tissues. 
Allow  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  in  mild  weather,  ventilating  from 
65°,  permitting  an  advance  to  70°  or  75°  from  sun  heat,  but  with  full 
ventilation.  Attend  to  disbudding,  and  follow  it  up  day  by  day  until  all 
the  shoots  not  re([uired  for  future  bearing  or  the  extension  of  th'*  trees 
are  removed.  A  shoot  must  be  left  at  the  base  of  those  now  bearing,  and 
another  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit.  If  the  latter  is  not  required 
for  extension  it  should  be  stopped  at  a  few  joints  of  growth.  In  the  case 
of  trees  not  full  grown  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  shoots  about  15  inches 
apart,  calculating  from  the  base  of  the  last  year’s  growth,  to  form  the 
bearing  shoots  of  next  year,  the  terminals  being  trained  in  their  full 
length  as  space  permits.  Avoid  crowding  the  growths,  as  they  become 
weak  and  unfruitful.  Commence  thinning  the  fruits  when  they  start 
swelling.  Laying  in  the  shoots  requires  to  be  done  early  and  carefully, 
so  as  not  to  bring  them  down  too  sharply,  yet  it  is  necessary  for  giving 
the  right  direction  to  the  growths,  and  in  securing  the  shoots  to  the 
trellis  space  must  be  left  for  their  swelling. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — While  the  trees  are  in  blossom  it  is  not 
advisable  to  syringe  them,  but  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  may 
be  secured  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon.  Prevent  a  vitiated  atmosphere  by  providing  a  little  air 
constantly  through  the  top  ventilators.  Maintain  the  night  temperature 
at  50°,  falling  5°  through  the  night  in  severe  weather,  50°  to  55°  by  day, 
and  65°  from  sun  heat. 
Latest  Houses. — The  blossoms  being  abundant  remove  those  on  the  under 
side  of  the  shoots.  Shake  the  trees  daily  from  the  first  pollen  lipening 
until  the  last  of  the  blossom  requires  attention,  selecting  the  early  part  of 
fine  days.  When  artificial  impregna.ion  is  resorted  to  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  dust  every  blossom,  when  the  pollen  is  ripe,  with  a  cameTs-hair 
brush,  a  feather,  rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  stick,  or  small  plume  of 
Pampas  Grass.  Any  trees  deficient  of  pollen  should  have  it  taken  from 
those  affording  some  plentifully,  such  as  the  small-floweml  varieties — 
Royal  George  and  Elruge  Nectarine.  Maintain  the  tenoperature  at 
40°  or  45°  at  night,  50°  to  5.5°  by  day,  in  all  cases  accompanied  by  slight 
