April  13,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
303 
ERICAS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 
Gardeners  of  the  past  generation  might  well  pride  themselves 
upon  their  splendid  achievements  in  connection  with  the  culture  of 
the  many  beautiful  species  and  varieties  of  Ericas.  In  those  days 
there  was  not  so  great  a  demand  for  large  quantities  of  cut  tlower.«, 
and  the  “  rush  ”  of  the  present  time  was  not  quite  so  pronounced, 
•cultivators  had  time  to  study  the  requirements  of  their  pet  plants, 
time  to  think  before  they  watered  their  giant  specimens,  with  the 
result  that  fewer  mistakes  were  made  in  watering  than  are  apparent 
to-day.  Fortunately,  however,  we  have  yet  among  us  a  few  cultivators 
to  whom  the  art  of  Heath-grovung  is  not  lost,  but  the  time  has  come 
when  it  is  necessar}’’  for  a  brigade  of  younger  hands  to  glean  from  the 
older  ones  the  secrets  of  success  in  this  branch  of  gardening,  then  with 
further  experience  we  may  confidently  anticipate  that  should  Erica 
growing  again  become  popular  an  army  of  experts  may  quickly  be 
ready  to  take  the  field. 
Although  Ericas  are  little  grown  in  private  garden®,  it  is 
satisfactory  to  find  that  market  growers  are  ab'e  to  produce  vast 
<iuantities  of  grand  plants  in  5  and  G-inch  pots  suitable  for  decorative 
purposes.  They  have  evidently  not  lost  the  art  of  growing  them  to 
perfection  in  a  small  state,  and  it  shows  too  that  we  live  in  an  age 
when  specialists  are  more  than  ever  “  men  of  mark.”  Let  us  hope 
that  the  rising  generation  of  gardeners  will  grasp  the  opportunities  of 
paying  sjaecial  attention  to  Erica  culture  without  neglecting  to  acquire 
a  sound  general  knowledge  of  their  calling. 
Those  who  contemplate  making  a  start  in  growing  these  useful 
plants  will  do  well  to  confine  their  attention  for  a  time  to  the  softer- 
wooded  kinds,  such  as  hyemalis,  gracilis,  g.  autumnalis,  Wilraoreana, 
and  ventricosa  coccinea,  as  they  grow  more  quickly,  and  are  not  so 
difficult  to  manage  as  the  harder-wooded  ones,  and  after  they  have 
mastered  the  details  of  growing  the  former,  enter  with  zest  into  the 
culture  of  the  many  fine  varieties  of  E.  Aitoniana,  which  include  such 
beautiful  ones  as  Turnbulli  and  Barnesi.  Austiniana,  Cavendishiana, 
depressa,  Devoniana,  eximia,  Fairrieana,  Irbyana,  and  Marnockiana, 
are  a  few  of  the  best  among  other  species.  The  variety  propendens 
(fig.  72)  which  recently  received  a  first-class  certificate  from  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  when  shown  by  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd., 
Lhelsea,  is  very  charming  with  its  bright  mauve  flowers. 
At  this  season  plants  can  be  obtained  in  small  pots,  which  are  just 
ready  for  a  shift  into  5-inch.  During  the  afternoon  preceding  the 
day  on  which  the  potting  is  to  be  done,  examine  the  plants  carefully, 
and  water  such  as  require  it;  they  will  then  be  in  the  right  condition 
for  potting  next  day,  and  the  operator  will  be  able  to  judge  with  a 
greater  amount  of  certainty  when  water  is  again  required.  An  inch 
•of  drainage  will  suffice  for  5-inch  pots,  this  to  be  formed  of  one  large 
crock  placed  at  the  bottom  and  covered  with  pieces  rangiiig  in  size 
from  a  marble  to  a  pea.  Good  brown  fibrous  peat  is  a  neces.sity ; 
this  should  be  pulled  to  pieces  with  the  hands,  and  have  a'  fourth  of 
•sharp  sand  added.  Place  some  of  the  rougher  portion  of  peat  over  the 
drainage,  ram  thoroughly,  and  fix  the  young  plant  in  position  so 
as  to  have  the  surface  of  the  ball  half  an  inch  below  the  rim  of  the 
pot.  This  will  allow  a  very  thin  layer  of  soil  fo  be  placed  over  the 
ball,  and  yet  leave  room  in  the  pot  for  holding  wafer.  Be  careful  not 
to  bury  the  stem,  as  deep  potting  has  been  fatal  to  many  a  hard- 
wooded  plant. 
On  the  other  hand,  do  not  let  the  centre  of  the  old  ball  stand  so 
high  in  the  pot  that  water  drains  quickly  from  it  to  the  sides,  because 
it  is  then  most  difficult  to  effectually  moisten  the  whole  ball  wi'hout 
plunging  in  water.  Special  potting  sticks  shouhi  be  made  which  w'ill 
fit  easily  into,  the  cavity  left  for  soil,  and  reach  quite  down  to  the 
drainage.  A  golden  rule  to  observe  in  potting  Ericas  is  alwavs  to  add 
the  soil  in  thin  layers,  press  each  layer  well  home,  and  make  it  very 
firm  before  adding  a'^other,  fin’shing  the  surface  by  pressing  as  firmly 
as  possible  with  the  fingers  or  thumb.  After  potting  place  the  plants 
in  a  cool  house,  shade  from  bright  sunshine,  and  keep  the  front 
ventilators  closed  for  a  time  if  cold  winds  prevail.  Damping  between 
the  pots  may  also  be  practised  during  dry  bright  weather. 
About  the  end  of  May  transfer  the  plants  to  cold  pits,  and  give 
abundance  of  air,  and  after  a  time  remove  the  lights  altogether  when 
the  weather  is  fine.  If  pit  room  is  scarce,  stand  the  plan':s  on  a  well 
ashed  bottom  in  an  open  position,  and  plunge  the  pots  to  half  their 
depth  in  ashes.  The  majority  of  the  fine  softer  wooded  kinds  which 
find  their  way  to  the  markets  are  grown  on  this  open  air  system  during 
the  .summer.  The  practice  insures  hard,  well  ripened  wood  and  flowers 
in  abundance. 
About  the  middle  of  September  place  the  plants  under  g’a's,  in  a 
light  structure,  where  they  can  receive  abundance  of  air  on  all  favour¬ 
able  occasions  throughout  the  wfinter.  Give  as  little  fire  heat  as 
possible,  just  enough  to  keep  out  frost ;  if  the  temperature  of  the 
house  never  falls  below  .35°  no  harm  will  result. 
The  harder  wooded  kinds  of  Ericas  rarely  require  pruning,  but  the 
free  growing  ones,  such  as  hyemalis,  should  be  pruned  soon  after  they 
have  done  flowering.  Cut  back  the  strong  shoots  to  within  an  inch 
or  two  of  their  base,  remove  the  points  of  weaker  ones,  so  as  to  give 
symmetry  to  the  plants,  and  if  the  weak  shoots  appear  crowded 
remove  some  of  tUem  entirely.  I  have  sometimes  found  it  beneficial 
to  syringe  the  plants  lightly  at  noon  during  bright  weather  when  they 
are  making  their  growth,  but  the  practice  is  one  which  demands  the 
exercise  of  judgment,  or  mildew  will  make  its  appearance;  as  soon  as 
traces  of  it  are  visible  dust  the  plants  with  sulphur,  or  syringe  with  an 
insecticide  siiccially  prepared. 
For  the  production  of  large  specimens,  the  healthiest  and  most 
vigorous  young  plants  should  be  selected,  and  these  must  never  be 
allowed  to  become  root-bound  until  they  have  been  placed  into  the 
largest  sized  pots,  in  wh  ch  they  are  to  be  flowered.  The  most  suit¬ 
able  season  for  potting  the 
majority  of  Ericas  is  in 
spring,  just  as  young 
growtii  commences ;  but 
as  many  species  make 
their  growth  in  the  sum¬ 
mer,  potting  in  their  case 
should  be  deferred  till 
then— in  fact,  each  plant 
si’.ould  be  treated  indi¬ 
vidually,  and  whatever 
the  season,  excepting  late 
autumn  and  midw'inter, 
any  plant  having  reached 
ihat  stage  at  which  it 
requires  more  root  room 
.'■hould  be  potted.  As  a 
rule,  pots  two  sizes  larger 
than  those  the  plants 
occupy  are  suitable  ones 
to  use  when  repotting. 
The  larger  the  pot  the 
more  care  must  be  exer¬ 
cised  in  draining.  A  good 
system  to  follow  is  to 
nlace  a  layer  of  large 
hollow  potsherds  at  the 
bottom,  cover  these  with 
a  layer  broken  rrroderately 
small,  and  finish  off  with 
small  piccr  s  of  equal  size 
— these  allow  the  surplus 
water  to  pass  away  freely 
.and  evenly,  instead  of 
being  drawn  to  certain 
points,  as  is  the  case 
when  large  crocks  are 
placed  upon  the  surface 
of  the  drainage. 
The  soil  for  large 
plants  must  be  used  in  a 
rough  state ;  however 
carefully  prepared,  a  cer¬ 
tain  amount  of  fine  soil 
always  comes  to  hand  as 
the  work  of  potting  pro¬ 
ceeds  ;  this  should  be 
placed  on  one  side  for 
other  purposes,  because, 
if  used,  it  would  soon 
become  sour,  and  we  have 
to  bear  i.J  mind  that  in 
the  production  of  large 
plants  the  soil  employed 
at  the  early  pottings  must 
be  kept  sweet  and  tough 
for  years,  if  the  plants  are  to  succeed.  The  remarks  about  firm  potting 
previously  siven  in  connection  with  young  plants  must  be  strictly 
observed 'when  dealing  with  large  one,®,  and  as  the  work  proceeds, 
lumps  of  charcoal,  ranging  in  size  from  a  marble  to  a  walnut,  should 
be  introduced  at  intervals,  for  they  he''p  to  keep  the  soil  sweet,  and 
quickly  become  impregnated  with  plant  food,  which  is  given  up  slowly 
as  the  roots  need  it.  Charcoal,  being  practically  indestructible,  is  of 
immense  benefit  in  the  culture  of  all  large  specimen  plants. 
Plants  of  small  and  moderate  size  may,  with  advantage,  be  placed 
in  the  open  air  during  July  and  August,  as  the  practice  insures  well 
ripened  wood,  and  the  abundance  of  fresh  air  circulating  among  them 
seems  to  have  a  similar  effect  upon  them  a®  a  seaside  holiday  does  to  a 
human  individual  who  lives  most  of  the  year  inland— viz.,  it  sets  them 
up  tor  the  winter.  But  let  us  return  to  the  plants.  It  is  not  advisable  to 
p' ace  very  large  specimens  in  the  open  air,  as  heavy  rains  might  ruin  them, 
and  would  ce'rtainly  render  the  work  of  watering  a  most  difficult  one. 
