306 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  13,  1899. 
BOURNEMOUTH  AND  DISTRICT  CHRYS¬ 
ANTHEMUM  AND  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY. 
This  Society  held  an  Exhibition  of  Narcissi  and  other  spring  flowers 
in  the  Shaftesbury  Hall  on  Thursday  and  Friday,  and  is  to  be  congra¬ 
tulated  on  the  splendid  exhibits  brought  together.  With  the  exception  of 
Messrs.  Barr  k,  Sons,  who  staged  a  fine  collection  of  Narcissi  not  for 
competition,  the  exhibitors  were  all  local. 
In  the  cut  bloom  section  the  classes  were  all  for  Narcissi,  and  some 
excellent  blooms  were  staged.  All  the  classes  were  filled,  and  there  was 
good  competition  in  most  of  them.  There  were  also  some  magnificent 
bouquets  and  epergnes  of  Narcissi. 
In  the  plant  section  there  were  classes  for  Narcissi.  Hyacinths,  Tulips, 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  Azaleas,  Spiraeas,  Cinerarias,  Primulas,  Cyclamens, 
and  Deutzias,  and  amongst  them  were  some  splendid  examples  of  culti¬ 
vation.  Groups  of  miscellaneous  plants  were  a  special  feature,  and  the 
nurserymen’s  groups  of  140  square  feet  weie  greatly  admired. 
The  Rev.  G.  H.  Engleheart,  Appleshaw,  Andover,  staged  some  of  his 
unnamed  seedling  Narcissi,  two  of  which  obtained  F.C.C.’s — viz.,  a  greatly 
improved  form  of  Sir  Watkin.  a  magnificent  bloom  ;  and  also  a  cross 
between  Horsefieldi  and  Grand  Monarque  Polyanthus  Narcissi,  showing 
the  character  of  both  parents.  A  fine  bicolored  Narcissi,  exhibited  by 
Messrs  Barr  &  Snn«,  was  named  Lady  Willis,  in  honour  of  the  lady  who 
opened  the  Exhibition. 
Non-competitive  groups  and  stands  of  Narcissi,  floral  designs,  and 
plants  helped  to  make  up  a  splendid  exhibition,  and  as  such  was  a  groat 
success  ;  but  although  Bournemouth  is  especially  lull  of  visitors,  neither 
they  nor  the  general  public  patronised  the  Show  as  its  importance 
deserved. 
HAILSTORM  INSURANCE  CORPORATION,  LTD. 
SUPPLEMEJCTAEY  to  OUT  reference  to  the  annual  meeting  of  the 
Nurserymen,  Market  Gardeners,  and  General  Hailstorm  Insurance 
Corporation  on  page  275,  the  Secretary  sends  the  following  interesting 
particulars.  Mr.  Harry  J.  Veitch  presided,  and  there  was  a  good 
attendance  of  shareholders.  The  Chairman  gave  some  interesting  figures, 
showing  the  growth  of  the  premium  income  and  business,  as  follows  : — 
Year. 
Policies 
Premil 
nm 
Sqtiare  feet 
Value 
Claims 
in  force. 
Income. 
£  3.  6. 
covered. 
Insured. 
£  3. 
d. 
Paid. 
£  3.  d. 
1895-6 
235 
681  1 
0 
10,408,161 
1.35,215  16 
0 
283  17  4 
1806-7 
346 
8»9  U 
5 
13,886.095 
179,366  11 
1 
Nil. 
1897-8 
550 
1360  17 
0 
20,095,104 
263,590  1!) 
1 
1.532  17  5 
1898-9 
749 
1736  0 
6 
25,619,760 
343,439  7 
8 
Nil. 
The  working  expenses  had  been  reduced  from  £40  10s.  -Sd.  per  cent, 
of  the  income  in  1895-6,  to  £22  9s.  per  cent,  in  1893-9.  The  whole  of 
the  cost  of  formation  of  the  Corporation  (’£.399  4s.  4d.),  and  of  furniture 
(£40  73.  8d.),  has  been  written  off.  £650  had  been  set  aside  as  reserve 
for  unexpired  risks. 
The  report  was  unanimously  agreed  to,  as  was  the  recommendation  of 
the  Directors,  that  a  dividend  of  5  per  cent,  for  the  year,  and  a  bonus  of 
5  per  cent,  be  paid  ;  and  that  £200  be  placed  to  the  reserve  fund,  and 
the  balance  be  carried  forward. 
At  an  extraoroinary'  general  meeting,  held  immediately  after  the 
annual  general  meeting,  it  was  resolved  that  a  further  issue  o(  5000  shares 
of  £5  each  be  made  at  a  premium  of  4s.  per  share,  aud  that  £1  4s.  be 
called  up  between  now  and  1st  June,  1899.  This  will  make  the  subscribed 
capital  £50.000,  and  the  paid-up  capital  £10,000.  The  premiums  on  new 
issue  will  go  to  reserve  fund. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
The  Lachenalia. 
Lachenalias,  by  their  bright,  conspicuous  flowers,  are  charming 
objects  for  the  decoration  of  the  conservatory  and  greenhouse  during  the 
late  winter  and  early  spring  months.  They  are  also  useful  for  house 
decoration  if  placed  in  convenient  sized  pots,  as  both  foliage  and  flowers 
are  alike  beautiful  ;  while  their  long  spikes  of  bright  golden  flowers  are 
well  adapted  for  use  in  a  cut  state.  They  are  of  comparatively  easy 
culture,- and  are  well  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  garden. 
The  best  time  to  pot  the  bulbs  is  the  first  week  in  August,  using  clean 
well-drained  pots  and  a  compost  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  good  fibrous 
loam,  spent  Mushroom  bed  manure,  and  leaf  soil,  with  a  liberal  addition 
of  coarse  sand.  Five-inch  pots  are  the  most  suitable  size  in  which  to 
grow  them,  putting  eight  or  ten  bulbs  in  a  pot,  and  covering  them  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  Stand  the  pots  on  a  shelf  as  near  the 
glass  as  possible  in  a  cool  pit,  or  if  that  is  not  available  place  them  in  a 
frame.  No  w-ater  will  be  required  for  some  time,  but  they  can  be  syringed 
once  or  twice  daily  according  to  the  w  eather. 
When  the  bulbs  have  commenced  to  grow  admit  as  much  air  as 
possible  on  all  favourable  occasions,  but  avoid  cold  draughts.  Those  in 
frames  should  be  protected  from  frost,  while  those  in  heated  pits  must  not 
be  kept  too  warm,  or  they  will  become  drawn  and  weakly  ;  a  tempera¬ 
ture  ot  about  45°  during  the  late  autumn  and  winter  months  suits  them 
well.  When  the  foliage  has  become  well  developed,  and  the  roots  have 
taken  good  possession  of  the  soil,  weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given  once 
a  week,  increasing  it  in  strength  and  the  frequency  of  application  as  the 
plants  progress.  If  the  stock  is  large  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be 
had  by  introducing  a  few  plants  into  gentle  heat  at  intervals  during  the 
months  of  December  and  January,  but  they  do  not  respond  so  well  to  the- 
process  of  forcing. 
After  the  flowering  period  is  over  the  plants  should  not  be  neglected. 
Place  them  in  a  light  sunny  position,  apply  wafer  as  required  until  the 
bulbs  are  fully  matured,  and  when  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  the 
supply  of  water  should  be  gradually  diminished,  and  finally  withheld. 
Lachenalias,  like  many  other  Cape  bulbs,  require  a  thorough  ripening 
and  a  distinct  period  of  rest  ;  therefore  when  the  leaves  have  died  otf 
place  the  pots  in  a  frame  free  from  drip,  where  they  may  obtain  the  full' 
benefit  of  the  sun,  put  on  the  lights',  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  that 
position  until  August,  when,  other  conditions  being  favourable,  they  will, 
be  well  ripened  and  rested,  and  ready  for  a  restart.  Laehenalia  Nelsoni, 
a  garden  hybrid,  is  far  superior  to  either  L.  aurea  or  L.  tricolor,  and 
appears  to  be  the  best  variety  in  cultiva'ion. — S.  P. 
[A  few  spikes  of  L.  Nelsoni  sent  by  our  correspondent  were  in  all 
respects  excellent.] 
Asters  and  Stocks. 
Asters  and  Stocks  are  amongst  the  best  outdoor  flowers  for  the 
summer  months.  They  make  a  good  display  if  arranged  in  the  beds- 
according  to  their  height  and  the  colours  intermixed,  and  are  also  very 
useful  for  cut  bloom,  especially  the  Comet  Aster.  I  have  seen  them  make 
a  grand  show  when  planted  at  the  edge  of  a  large  Vine  border,  using 
dwarf  Asters  in  the  front,  with  a  row  of  Stocks  at  the  back. 
The  seeds  may  either  be  sown  in  a  heated  frame  in  rather  shallow 
soil,  or  in  boxes,  the  compost  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  fine  loam,  leaf 
mould,  and  sand.  Make  it  moderately  firm,  apply  water  before  sowing,, 
distribute  the  seed  thinly,  and  cover  lightly  with  a  similar  compost,  but 
add  a  little  more  sand.  Give  a  thorough  watering  with  a  fine  rose  can, 
and  keep  them  rather  close  until  the  seedlings  appear  above  the  surface.. 
If  sown  in  boxes  a  temperature  of  50°  at  night  will  bo  found  sufficient, 
and  the  boxes  must  be  kept  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible. 
When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  should  be  carefully  pricked 
off  about  an  inch  apart  in  boxes,  using  a  compost  of  two  parts  of  loam  to 
one  of  leaf  mould,  and  enough  sand  to  keep  it  porous.  Place  the  boxes 
in  a  similar  position  to  that  recommended  for  the  seed  pans,  and  keep 
them  close  and  shaded  for  a  few  days  if  the  weather  be  very  bright,  and 
lightly  syringe  about  midday'.  Do  not  at  any  time  let  the  plants  want 
for  wafer,  and  when  they  have  made  a  fair  amount  of  roots  they  should 
bo  removed  to  a  cooler  frame,  and  have  more  fresh  air,  always  avoiding 
cold  draughts. 
The  time  for  placing  in  their  flowering  quarters  should  be  about  the 
latter  end  of  IMay,  so  all  beds  and  borders  chosen  f.-r  them  must  be  got 
in  readiness  prior  to  ihat  date;  the  ground  must  be  well  manured  and 
deeply  dug.  Thoroughly  water  the  plants,  so  that  when  taken  out  of 
the  boxes  they  will  have  a  fair  amount  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots. 
Plant  at  a  distance  of  10  to  18  inches  apart,  according  to  the  variety, 
and  make  the  ground  firm,  giving  a  good  watering  to  settle  the  soil  about 
the  roots.  During  the  summer  months,  if  the  weather  become  hot  and 
dry,  the  plants  will  require  water,  and  if  a  little  liquid  manuie  can  be 
given  occasionally  it  will  be  found  advantageous. — P.  R. 
Grevillea  robusta. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  and  useful  foliage  plants  is,  I  think,  Grevillea 
robusta,  whether  required  for  vases  in  the  dwelling-house  or  for  dot  plants 
in  the  conservatory.  It  is  somewhat  surprising  that  there  are  not  more 
grown,  for  they  really  deserve  a  place  in  every  garden.  They  are  not 
difficult  to  manage,  and  do  not  demand  so  much  care  and  attention  as 
do  many  plants  of  less  utility. 
The  greatest  difficulty,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  is  in  raising  the 
seeds,  which  needs  careful  attention  ;  but  once  the  first  leaf  is  developed 
after  the  cotyledons  there  is  every  prospect  of  ultimate  success.  The 
most  suitable  compost  is  fibrous  loam  and  well  decayed  leaf  mould  rubbed 
through  a  moderately  fine  sieve,  with  the  addition  of  a  fair  sprinkling  of 
silver  sand.  The  whole  must  be  well  mixed,  and  (if  the  seeds  are  sown 
during  the  winter  months)  it  should  be  warmed  previous  to  sowing.  The 
seed  pots  ought  to  be  clean  and  well  drained,  so  as  to  allow  water  to  pass 
away  quickly  ;  the  soil  must  be  pressed  fairly  firm.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
dibble  the  seeds  in  rather  thinly,  so  that  when  potting,  each  plant  can  be 
taken  out  with  a  ball  of  soil,  and  consequently  with  less  disturbance  to 
the  tender  roots.  A  place  where  they  can  have  a  good  bottom  heaS 
should  be  chosen  to  encourage  rapid  germination. 
A  hand-light  placed  over  the  hot-water  pipes  in  a  vinery  makes  a 
capital  propagatins  frame  ;  thin  roofing- slates  may  be  used  to  form  a 
bottom  for  the  pots  to  stand  on.  If  cocoa-rut  fibre  refuse  be  used  to 
plunge  the  pots  in,  so  much  the  better,  as  it  holds  the  moisture  and 
prevents  the  soil  getting  dry  so  freely.  The  frame  may  be  kept  constantly 
closed  till  the  young  plants  appear  above  the  soil,  when  a  little  air  should 
be  given  to  prevent  the  seedlings  becoming  drawn,  gradually  increasing 
it  till  they  are  hardened  sufficiently  to  bear  full  exposure. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  without  injuring 
them,  they  may  be  placed  in  thumb  pets.  Care  should  be  taken  to  secure 
as  much  soil  attached  to  the  roots  as  possible.  The  compost  may  be  similar 
to  that  in  which  the  seeds  were  raised,  using  it  warm.  I  think  (especially 
in  regard  to  seedlings),  many  failures  would  be  prevented  if  this  consider¬ 
ation  of  warming  the  soil  prior  to  potting  were  more  generally  practised, 
as  a  check  must  be  given  to  the  young  roots  when  they  come  in  contact 
with  soil  many  degrees  colder  than  that  in  which  they  have  been  growing. 
The  plants  can  be  replaced  in  the  propagating  frame  for  a  few  days  till 
they  begin  to  take  hold  of  the  new  soil,  when  a  position  on  a  shelf  near 
the  glass  should  be  chosen  for  them,  to  keep  them  sturdy. 
As  potting  becomes  necessary  a  slightly  heavier  soil  should  be  employed 
