Apiil  13,  1899. 
JOURXAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
307 
with  the  addition  ot  a  little  bonemeal,  and  if  at  hand  burnt  earth  ;  for 
they  seem  to  enjoy  this  mixture.  After  potting  keep  them  close  for  a 
short  time,  till  they  have  commenced  to  make  new  roots,  when  plenty  of 
air,  on  all  favourable  occasions,  should  be  given.  If  the  plants  are  required 
for  table,  5-inch  pots  will  be  found  most  serviceable,  with  larger  sizes  for 
other  purposes.  Weak  liquid  manure  given  occasionally,  after  the  pots 
are  filled  with  roots,  is  beneficial  in  inducing  the  leaves  to  retain  that 
charming  shade  of  green  in  which  lies,  to  a  large  degree,  the  beauty 
of  Grevillea  robusta. — Aspirant. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Outdoor  Figs. — The  pruning  of  old-established  trees  on  walls  or  gable 
-ends  should  be  completed  now.  Old,  weakly,  and  crowded  wood  must  be 
cut  out,  leaving  the  best  placed  shoots  and  short-jointed  growths.  Avoid 
shortening  any  shoots  that  are  left,  as  the  fruit  is  borne  at  the  apex 
of  well-ripened  growths  of  the  previous  year’s  formation.  The  pruning 
out  of  old  wood  gives  an  opportunity  for  new  wood  to  start  from  buds 
Dear  the  main  branches.  These,  if  allowed  plenty  of  light,  air,  and 
space,  will  grow  sturdily,  and  become  well  ripened  for  limiting  the 
following  year.  They  must,  however,  be  limited  in  number  when  the 
buds  start  by  careful  disbudding. 
Planting  Young  Fig  Trees — Where  a  warm  sheltered  position  can  be 
found,  with  the  soil  in  a  well-drained  condition,  and  of  a  fertile  calcareous 
■character,  young  trees  may  be  planted.  Soil  deficient  in  lime  or  chalk 
must  be  improved  by  the  addition  of  these  materials.  The  border  need 
not  be  wider  than  6  feet,  and  it  must  be  made  very  firm,  no  manure  added, 
but  the  surface  may  be  mulched  in  summer.  The  present  is  a  suitable 
time  to  prepare  the  site,  procure  the  trees  and  plant. 
Pruning  and  Training  .—  The  best  trees  to  plant  are  maidens  having 
one  stem.  Shorten  this  stem  after  planting  to  15  inches.  The  breaks  which 
issue  can  be  reduced  to  two  of  the  best  placed,  one  on  each  side,  equal  in 
strength  and  length  if  possible.  They  should  be  encouraged  to  grow 
strongly,  as  in  the  succeeding  year  two  shoots  must  be  selected  from  each 
for  training  as  main  branches.  Allow  plenty  of  space  to  admit  of  succes- 
sional  shoots,  which  will  require  room  for  training  at  full  length.  One 
of  these  ought  each  season  to  be  allowed  to  fruit,  while  an  adjoining 
shoot  may  be  cut  back  to  one  bud.  Treated  thus  every  year  there  wdll 
always  be  fruiting  shoots,  and  growths  for  succession. 
Protecting  Fruit  Trees. — When  cold,  bright  and  frosty  nights  prevail, 
protect  the  blossoms  of  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  other  choice  fruit  tiees. 
Double  or  treble  fish  netting  makes  good  protecting  material,  and  as  it 
admits  light  and  air  it  may  remain  on  the  trees  permanently  until  pro¬ 
tection  is  unnecessary.  However,  if  tiffany,  canvas,  or  woollen  netting  of 
a  small  mesh  is  employed  they  must  be  removed  when  not  required  for 
protecting.  Whatever  material  is  used  it  ought  to  be  placed  so  that  it 
does  not  rest  upon  the  branches.  Slight,  temporary  framework  of  smooth 
wood  or  poles  securely  fixed  answers  the  purpose  best.  It  is  only  wall 
trees  and  comparatively  dwarf  bush  or  cordon  trees  that  can  be  readily 
•protected.  Large  standard  or  bush  trees  cannot  be  dealt  with. 
Strawberries. — Complete  the  planting  of  young  plants  from  nursery 
beds.  If  without  soil  attached  to  the  roots  spread  out  the  latter  in  the 
aoil  and  cover  carefully  with  a  little  fine  material.  Make  the  whole  firm 
about  them,  but  leave  a  little  basin  round  each  plant  for  holding  water, 
which  it  will  be  necessary  to  afford  after  planting  in  light  soil  and  in  dry 
weather. 
Rake  off  old  exhausted  mulching  from  established  beds  and  fork  up 
,perennial  weeds.  A  dressing  of  soot,  1  peck  to  the  rod,  guano  1  oz.  to  the 
square  yard,  or  nitrate  of  soda,  half  ounce  to  the  square  yard,  may  be 
given  to  large  established  plants,  sprinkling  round  but  not  immediately 
on  the  crowns.  Liquid  manure  may  be  given  to  the  plants  later  on.  In 
the  meantime  lay  down  a  liberal  mulching  of  manure  consisting  of  short 
and  long  material  combined.  This  will  afford  nutriment  and  eventually 
(protect  the  ripe  fruit  from  dirt. 
Fertilisers  for  Fruit  Trees. — The  trees  which  require  assisting  at  the 
roots  are  those  that  grow  weakly,  also  heavy  cropping  frees  and  bushes, 
which  demand  plenty  of  nutriment  to  assist  them  in  developing  and 
perfecting  their  fruit,  as  well  as  in  making  fresh  wood  growth.  Super¬ 
phosphate  is  an  excellent  stimulant  to  the  roots,  and  may  be  applied  at 
the  rate  of  3  ozs.  to  the  square  yard,  pointing  it  into  the  soil.  In  light 
mould  superphosphate  is  best  mixed  with  half  the  quantity  of  muriate  of 
potash.  In  heavy  soil  bonemeal  is  a  good  manure  ;  apply  ^  cwt.  to  a 
rod  of  ground.  The  soil  made  black  with  soot,  and  this  watered  in,  is 
good  for  the  foliage.  The  various  general  artificial  fertilisers  may  be 
•employed  with  good  effect  in  most  cases  if  scattered  round  the  bushes, 
forking  or  watering  in. 
Nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  ammonia  must  be  used  sparingly, 
chiefly  when  growth  is  deficient  or  the  soil  poor  ;  1  oz.  to  the  square  yard 
sprinkled  on  the  surface  as  far  as  the  roots  extend  is  a  suitable  dressing. 
•Over-manured  soil  rich  in  humus  ought  to  be  treated  with  lime ;  1  lb.  to 
the  square  yard  will  act  upon  the  acid  in  humic  matter  and  liberate  plant 
food. 
Dried  poultry  manure  contains  valuable  constituents,  lut  it  is  very' 
strong  in  action,  and  should  be  mixed  with  six  times  its  bulk  of  dry  soil, 
and  applied  as  a  top-dressing. 
Half-decomposed  manure  laid  upon  the  soil  over  the  roots  of  Rasp¬ 
berries,  Gooseberri.  s,  and  Currants  affords  nutriment  as  well  as  conserves 
moisture  in  the  soil.  A  liberal  application  may  be  applied  now  to 
Raspberries,  and  to  Gooseberries  and  Currants  as  soon  as  fruit  is  set 
and  swelling.  In  light  soil  especially  mulching  is  very  essential. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. —  Good  progress  and  grand  fruit  has  been  the  exception 
rather  than  the  rule,  the  sharp  weather  having  had  a  retarding  effect  on 
the  plant  and  that  of  stunting  the  fruit.  Attend  to  tying  out  the  growths, 
stopping  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  removing  bad  leaves  and 
exhausted  growths,  so  as  to  maintain  a  succession  ot  healthy  fruitful 
shoots.  Water  will  be  needed  copiously  by' plants  in  houses,  and  liquid 
manure  may  be  given  once  or  twice  a  week  with  advantage.  Syringe  the 
foliage  and  walls  daily  at  closing  time,  or  about  3.30  p.m.,  and  damp  the 
house  well  in  the  morning  and  in  the  evening.  Shade  only  to  prevent 
flagging.  The  floor  may  be  sprinkled  occasionally  with  liquid  manure, 
or  fresh  yet  sweetened  horse  droppings  sprinkled  on  the  bed  will  answer 
the  twofold  purpose  of  evolving  ammonia  to  the  benefit  of  the  foliage, 
and  supply  nutriment  to  the  soil,  as  well  as  encouraging  surface  roots. 
Pits  and  Frames. — Plants  in  these  will  not  need  shading  as  yet,  but 
they  must  not  be  allowed  to  flag.  Use  tepid  water  through  a  fine  rose 
watering  pot  at  about  3  p.m.,  closing  the  lights  at  the  same  time,  but  as  the 
nights  are  yet  cold,  be  careful  that  the  foliage  becomes  dry  before  dark. 
Close  early,  employing  a  thick  covering  at  night,  such  as  a  double  thick¬ 
ness  of  mats.  Maintain  a  good  bottom  heat  by  linings,  renewing  them  as 
necessary.  Preserve  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  ventilating  from  75°,  being  careful  to 
avoid  cold  and  drying  currents  of  air,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  run 
up  to  90°  or  more.  Sow  seeds  of  ridge  varieties,  and  keep  young  plants 
of  these  and  other  kinds  near  the  glass. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House.  —  Discontinue  syringing 
when  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen,  or  it  will  cause  the  skin  to  crack,  and 
impart  an  unpleasant  flavour.  It  is  very  important  to  have  the  trees 
quite  free  from  insects  by  the  time  the  syringing  ceases,  as  it  must  when 
the  fruit  commences  ripening.  If  there  be  the  least  trace  of  red  spider 
apply  an  insecticide,  and  follow'  afterwards  with  a  forcible  syringing, 
repeating  the  process  if  necessary,  so  as  to  thoroughly  free  the  trees  from 
the  pest.  It  is  only  the  very  early  Peaches  (Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early 
Beatrice,  and  Early  Louise)  and  Nectarines  (Advance  and  Cardinal)  that 
will  be  ripening ;  the  others  must  be  well  syringed,  and  have  abundant 
supplies  of  water  and  surface  mulchings  of  short  manure  or  rich  material. 
Second  Early  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  are  more  advanced 
than  usual,  being  accelerated  by  the  mild  and  bright  weather.  The  fruits 
are  now  stoning,  and  will  need  care  in  preventing  checks  from  sudden 
fluctuations  or  depressions  of  temperature,  that  of  the  night  being  kept 
steady  at  60°,  with  .5°  more  on  mild  nights,  whilst  on  cold  nights  it  may 
fall  to  55°,  65°  by  day  artificially  in  dull  weather,  70°  to  75°  on  cloudy 
days,  but  with  clear  intervals,  ventilating  from  70°,  and  freely  above  75°. 
Attend  to  tying-in  the  shoots  as  they  advance,  and  encourage  no  more 
growths  than  will  be  required  for  future  bearing,  the  extension  of  the 
trees,  and  the  swelling  of  the  current  crop.  The  trees  must  not  lack 
moisture  at  the  roots,  affording  liquid  manure  if  they  are  heavily  cropped 
and  not  making  satisfactory  growth  ;  but  avoid  undue  excitement  to 
trees  in  full  vigour,  as  any  impulse  given  to  growth  during  the  stoning  is 
apt  to  affect  the  process  disastrously.  Syringe  twice  a  day  in  bright 
weather,  and  if  necessary  apply  an  insecticide,  it  being  imperative  that 
the  foliage  be  kept  clean. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — Thinning  should  commence  when  the 
fruits  are  the  size  of  horse  beans,  removing  the  smallest  and  those  on  the 
under  side  of  the  shoots.  Retain  sufficient  to  admit  a  further  thinning 
when  they  are  the  size  of  marbles,  and  then  only  a  few  more  need  be  left 
than  are  required  for  the  crop,  leaving  those  that  are  best  situated  for 
receiving  air  and  light.  Disbudding  must  not  be  neglected,  and  laying-in 
growths  required  for  next  year’s  bearing  will  need  careful  and  timely 
attention.  Syringe  the  trees  twice  a  day  when  the  weather  is  bright, 
occasionally  only  when  dull,  and  let  the  second  syringing  be  at  closing 
time  or  early  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  have  the  foliage  fairly  dry  before 
night.  Increase  the  temperature  to  55°  or  60°  at  night,  60°  to  65°  by 
day,  ventilating  from  the  latter,  and  increasing  with  sun  heat  to  70° 
or  75°. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — Many  more  fruits  have  set  than  can 
possibly  be  brought  to  perfection,  and  an  overset  is  a  source  of  great 
weakness,  often  causing  the  fruit  to  be  oast  in  showers,  leaving  but  a 
scanty  crop.  There  is  no  preventive  but  to  thin  the  fruits  as  soon  as  it 
can  be  seen  which  are  taking  the  lead  in  swelling,  and  it  is  better  to  well 
thin  the  flowers  before  they  expand.  Disbud  gradually,  for  severe  shoot 
removal  favours  growth  of  wood  only,  and  sometimes  gives  a  severe  check 
to  the  fruits,  causing  them  to  drop.  Syringe  so  as  to  enable  the  fruits  to 
throw  off  the  remains  of  the  flowers,  but  avoid  heavy  syringing  at  this 
stage,  as  the  foliage  can  evaporate  little  when  wet,  indeed  the  stomata 
close  under  water  and  elaboration  is  greatly  impeded.  Ventilate  early 
and  freely,  so  as  to  secure  thoroughly  solidified  growth.  A  temperature 
of  50°  to  55°  will  be  sufficient,  not  allowing  an  advance  above  65°  without 
free  ventilation. 
Late  Houses. — A  splendid  display  of  blossom  and  a  grand  smell  of 
nectar  characterise  the  trees  generally  in  these  structures.  There  ought 
