328 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  20,  1899, 
protection  will  be  at  hand  in  the  shape  of  litter,  or  netting,  mats,  or 
anything  which  can  be  pressed  into  temporary  service.  So  one  might  go 
on,  but  it  is  not  in  my  province  to  enumerate  the  many  instances  in 
which  the  strong  and  persevering  succeed  and  the  weak  and  indolent 
fail.  I  might  have  enlarged  on  the  subject  of  fruit,  how  one  should 
become  master  of  the  knowledge  of  tree  lifting,  root  pruning,  and  so  cn  ; 
all  this  comes  to  most  of  us  sooner  or  later,  and  it  is  wise  to  be  ready. — 
J.  Shalford. 
[Though  still  a  “young  gardener,”  our  correspondent  is  now  in  a 
position  of  responsibilit}',  and  has,  no  doubt,  experienced  the  advantage  of 
the  knowledge  he  advocates  in  the  interests  of  young  men  who  will  sooner 
or  later  appreciate  its  value.] 
Tormation  and  Cropping  of  a  Kitchen  Garden. 
Where  the  soil  and  locality  are  suitable  the  kitchen  garden  ought  to 
be  on  the  north  side  of  the  mansion.  The  principal  walk  leading  from 
the  pleasure  grounds  [to  the  garden  should  bo  made  as  interesting  and 
attractive  as  possible.  The  main  entrance  may  bo  so  chosen  so  that 
visitors  get  views  of  the  most  interesting  and  effective  parts  of  the  garden. 
After  selecting  the  site,  which  where  possible  should  have  a  gentle 
slope  towards  the  south.  This  point,  however,  is  not  an  essential  one,  as 
we  find  many  gardens  entirely  tlat,  yet  under  skilful  management,  they 
yield  abundance  of  fruit  and  vegetables.  The  size  or  extent  of  the 
garden,  like  that  of  its  distance  from  the  mansion,  must  in  a  great 
measure  depend  on  the  taste  of  the  owner,  the  number  of  family,  and  the 
demands  of  the  establishment  in  general.  The  produce  required  will 
serve  as  a  basis  on  which  to  form  our  future  plans.  It  would  not  be 
possible  to  recommend  one  plan  that  would  be  applicable  to  all,  as  local 
conditions  must  be  considered.  When  the  outlines  of  the  garden  have 
been  decided,  the  level  of  the  ground  or  the  slope  thereof  must  be 
determined.  I  am  greatly  in  favour  of  enclosing  the  garden  within 
walls,  as  these  afford  shelter  from  cold  winds,  and  thus  provide  protected 
borders  that  will  be  valuable  for  early  crops. 
Drainage  is  an  operation  which  must  precede  trenching  and  other 
ground  work.  It  sometimes  occurs  that  land  is  naturally  too  dry  when, 
of  course,  artificial  drainage  would  be  a  mistake,  but  in  most  cases  it  is 
absolutely  essential  for  the  improvement  of  the  soil  and  the  subsequent 
benefit  to  the  several  crops.  Before  laying  the  main  drains  the  principal 
walks  should  be  marked  out  and  the  mains  conducted  under  the  centre  of 
each  one.  The  foundation  of  the  walks  can  be  made  with  whatever 
material  may  be  at  disposal,  such  as  rough  stones  and  broken  bricks. 
Walls  that  are  to  be  used  for  fruit  trees  will  require  a  border 
from  15  to  20  leet  wide  and  2  feet  deep.  For  a  south  wall  choose 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  Apricots  and  Figs  ;  for  a  north  aspect  Morello 
Cherries,  Gooseberries  and  Currants  ;  for  an  east  wall  Pears,  Plums  and 
Cherries  ;  and  for  a  western  aspect  Apples,  Pears  and  Plums.  Fan- 
trained  trees  may  be  disposed  15  (eet  apart ;  horizontally  formed 
12  to  15  feet  ;  and  upright  and  diagonal  cordoi.s  from  15  inches  to  2  leet. 
Apples,  Pears  and  Plums  may  be  cultivated  as  pj'ramids  or  half¬ 
standards,  arranged  round  the  central  portions  of  the  gardens,  planting 
them  from  15  to  20  feet  apart  and  4  to  6  feet  from  the  walks,, 
with  bush  fruits  of  Gooseberries  and  Currants  planted  alternately. 
Strawberries  require  a  space  of  ground  tor  their  culture  which  should  be 
properly  prepared  and  manured.  Select  healthy  and  well-rooted  runners 
in  the  autumn  from  fruiting  plants,  forming  the  rows  from  18  inches 
to  2  feet  asunder.  Kaspberries  may  bo  placed  either  in  rows  or  clumps, 
and  Gooseberries  and  Currants  must  also  be  provided,  allowing  a  distance 
of  from  9  to  12  feet  from  plant  to  plant.  A  suitable  toil  for  fru't 
trees  is  a  firm  loam  of  medium  texture,  properly  drained  and  well 
prepared.  Top-dressings  of  lime,  soot  and  wood  ashes,  and  a  quantity  of 
mortar  rubbish  and  charcoal,  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
soil.  The  greatest  enemy  to  fruit  trees  is  canker  and  gumming.  As  a 
means  of  prevention  carefully  plant  healthy  trees,  encourage  active  fibrous 
roots  near  the  surface,  always  keep  the  branches  thinly  disposed,  so  that  the 
trees  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  air  and  light,  when  they  will  eventually 
produce  sound,  matuied  and  fortified  growths.  Avoid  severe  pruning, 
gross  feeding,  and  over-luxuriant  growth. 
Before  selecting  the  vegetable  quarters  make  out  a  list  of  those 
which  would  be  chiefly  required,  as  this  will  serve  as  a  guide  in  the 
arrangement  of  the  ground  at  disposal.  Each  section  may  then  be 
manured  and  deeply  trenched,  if  the  soil  is  deep  enough  to  allow  it,  in 
accordance  with  the  requirements  of  the  crop  that  is  to  occupy  it.  If  this 
work  is  done  in  the  autumn  the  surface  should  be  left  as  rough  as  possible. 
The  main  object  in  view  will  be  to  maintain  a  supply  of  vegetables 
for  as  long  a  period  as  possible,  and  this  will  require  a  great  amount 
of  forethought  and  careful  judgment.  Deep  working  of  the  soil  and 
systematic  culture  are  essentia],  or  the  soil  may  be  exhausted  of  iis 
fertility  long  before  it  ought  to  be.  The  importance  of  doing  all 
kitchen  garden  work  thoroughly  is  shown  more  and  more  the  longer 
it  is  practised. 
I  ought  to  refer  to  kinds  and  varieties  as  well  as  to  cultural 
details  on  vegetables,  but  time  forbids.  I  should  like,  however,  to 
impress  upon  young  gardeners  that  the  reading  of  essays  will  not  teach 
any  gardener  his  work-in  the  kitchen  garden  ;  such  must  be  gathered 
from  practical  experience.  Let  us  consider  for  a  moment  the  collections 
of  vegetables  we  find  at  our  horticultural  exhibitions.  Such  cultivation 
is  not  alone  due  to  any  special  manures  or  choice  seeds,  but  is 
generally  the  result,  or  1  may  say  the  essence,  of  untiring  labour  and 
strict  attention  in  every  detail  of  their  culture,  produced  by  skilful  and 
intelligent  management  of  men  who  possess  both  practical  experience  and 
perseverance. — {Abridged  from  the  firsUprue  essay  read  by  J.  F.  DONOGHUE, 
Tranby  Croft  Gardens,  Hull,  before  The  Ucss’.e  Gardeners'  Society.') 
WOKUfmTHEWEEK. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest  House,  —  Early  forced  Vines  usually  contract  red' 
spider,  when  a  timely  washing  of  the  leaves  with  a  sponge  moistened  in 
a  solution  of  softsoap — 2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  with  petroleum 
made  soluble  in  it  at  the  ratio  of  1  fluid  oz. — is  the  safest  and  best 
remedy,  though  rather  a  tedious  process.  Syringing,  even  between  the- 
bunches,  with  the  clearest  water  spoils  the  appearance  of  the  Grapes  for 
market  purposes,  and  employing  sulphur  on  the  hot-water  pipes  is  some¬ 
times  attended  with  serious  discolouration  in  white  Grapes.  Afford  a 
thorough  supply  of  water  to  the  inside  border,  applying  it  early  in  the- 
day,  BO  that  surplus  moisture  maj-  pass  off  before  closing  time.  A  light 
mulch  of  dry  material  will  prevent  moisture  arising  prejudicial  to  the 
Grapes,  but  we  use  rather  fresh  yet  well  sweetened  short  litter  Irom  the 
stables,  and  it  prevents  the  soil  cracking  and  encourages  surface  roots. 
Early  Grapes  do  not  always  colour  well,  the  defect  chiefly  arising  from 
overcropping,  or  continued  hard  forcing  and  attacks  of  red  spider  ;  it  is 
only  avoided  by  moderate  cropping,  rational  treatment,  and  cleanly 
culture.  A  constant  supply  of  rather  dry  warm  air,  but  a  comparatively 
low  night  temperature,  will  do  much  to  assist  heavily  cropped  \'ine8  in 
colouring  the  Grapes.  Where  the  Grapes  are  fully  ripe  a  reduction  in 
temperature  is  advisable,  but  60'^  is  essential  to  the  alter  welfare  of  the 
Vines,  and  moderate  moisture  should  be  maintained  for  the  benefit  of 
the  foliage. 
Succession  Houses. — The  stopping  and  tying  of  the  shoots  must  have 
attention.  Where  the  space  is  restricted,  stop  the  shoots  two  joints 
beyond  the  fiuit  ;  and  as  foliage  is  necessary  to  maintain  root  activity, 
leave  the  laterals  on  the  shoot  both  above  and  below  the  bunch,  or  at 
least  those  from  the  two  lowermost  eyes,  and  those  level  with  and  above 
the  bunch.  Pinch  these  at  the  first  joint,  especially  the  ones  from  the  basal 
leaves,  also  those  above,  unless  there  is  space  for  extending  the  laterals,, 
when  they  may  be  allowed  to  make  two  or  three  leaves,  but  no  more 
growth  must  be  encouraged  than  can  have  full  exposure  to  light  and  air. 
After  the  space  is  fairly  furnished  keep  the  growth  closely  pinched  to  one 
joint  as  made.  The  great  evil  in  Grape  grov/ing  is  overcrowding,  which 
deprives  the  foliage  of  light  and  air,  and  restricting  the  growths  is  intended 
to  avoid  that  and  secure  thoroughly  solidified  wood  as  it  is  made. 
Tying  Down. — It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  rods  somewhat  lower  than 
the  trelhs,  so  that  the  side  shoots  have  a  slight  incline  upwards.  In  tying 
these  in  the  places  where  they  are  to  remain  during  the  summer  it  is  a 
common  practice  to  begin  to  tie  th' m  down  as  soon  ns  they  are  long 
enough  to  bend.  This  is  not  advisable  unless  as  a  precaution  against, 
injury  from  frost,  as  the  shoots  at  this  stage  are  so  tender  that  the  slightest 
twist  the  wrong  way  breaks  them.  It  is  a  good  method  to  defer  tying 
down  until  the  shoots  are  less  sappy,  which  may  be  when  the  bunches  are 
showing  clear  of  the  leaves  or  not  until  the  shoots  are  stopped.  Sufficient, 
space  should  be  left  in  the  ligatures  for  the  swelling  of  the  growths. 
Stopping  ought  to  commence  when  the  leaf  at  the  joint  or  place  of  pinch¬ 
ing  is  the  size  of  a  halfpenny. 
'Vines  in  llower. — Afford  Muscats  a  free  circulation  of  rather  dry'  air,, 
and  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  or  90°  by  day  from  sun  heat,  70°  to  75° 
artificially,  and  70°  at  night,  falling  5°  on  cold  nights.  Raise  the  points  of 
the  bunches  to  the  light,  and  liberate  the  pollen  at  midday  by  gently  tap¬ 
ping  the  points  of  the  bunches,  or  go  over  the  bunches  carefully  with  a  largo 
sized  camel’s  hair  brush,  and  afterwards  dust  them  with  another  charged 
with  Alicante  pollen  or  that  of  some  different  and  free  setting  variety. 
Ilamburghs  set  freely  in  a  lower  temperature,  but  they  are  better  for  a 
little  assistance  from  fire  heat,  say  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
with  10°  to  15°  advance  from  sun  heat,  and  other  varieties  are  similarly 
aided  during  the  flowering  period. 
Thinning  Bunches  and  Berries. — It  is  advisable  to  make  a  selection  of 
the  best  bunches,  and  leave  only  those  required  for  the  crop  before  they 
come  into  flower.  This  concentrates  the  forces  on  those  retained,  and  by 
proper  attention  to  fertilising  the  flower  a  good  set  and  fine  bunches  am 
secured.  Thinning  the  berries  should  commence  as  soon  as  they  are  set, 
especially  in  the  case  of  the  free  setting  varieties,  and  whore  finespecimena 
are  required  for  exhibition  it  should  be  attended  to  whilst  they  are  in 
flower.  With  the  shy-setting  sorts  thinning  should  be  deferred  until  the 
properly  fertilised  berries  can  be  distinguished  by  their  taking  the  lead 
in  swelling.  Remove  surplus  bunches,  under  rather  than  overcropping 
the  Vines,  as  too  heavy  cropping  is  fatal  to  colour  and  finish. 
Feeding. — When  the  Vines  are  in  full  leaf,  and  the  Grapes  swelling, 
they  require  abundant  supplies  of  nourishment.  Owing  to  the  largo 
extent  of  leaf  surface  the  Vines  evapoiate  enormous  quantities  of  water 
under  the  influence  of  sunlight,  and  do  most  of  the  work  then  in  assimi¬ 
lating  the  nutrient  elements,  the  solid  matters  being  left  behind  in  the 
Vines,  and  with  the  carbonic  acid  gas  derived  from  and  fixed  in  the 
Vines  as  carbon,  build  up  their  structure  solidly  and  healthfully.  Stable, 
cow  house,  and  manure  heap  drainings  are  excellent,  being  rich  in 
available  potash,  and  if  a  pound  of  mineral  superphosphate  be  added  to 
30  gallons  it  is  an  advantage.  The  liquid  must  not  be  applied  too  strong, 
as  an  overdose  injures,  if  not  destroys,  the  young  fibrous  roots.  Shanking 
also  often  follows  packing  the  soil  with  organic  matter  held  in  suspension./ 
