350 
JOURXAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
April  27,  1899, 
FORCED  CHERRIES. 
I  OFTEN  wonder  why  Cherry  houses  are  not  conomon  in  garden?.  The 
trees  are  easily  grown  in  pots  in  any  light  airy  structure,  w  ith  sufficient  hot- 
water  pipes  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  in  the  severest  weather, 
and  they  need  not  be  kept  under  glass  for  more  than  half  the  year.  When 
started  at  the  New  Year,  such  flue  varieties  as  Early  Rivers,  Bello 
d’Orleans,  Empress  Eugenie,  and  Governor  Wood  afford  a  supply  of 
welcome  and  delicious  Iruit  in  May  and  June  without  much  forcing. 
After  the  fruit  has  been  cleared  off  the  trees  they  can  be  placed  outdoors, 
plunging  the  pots  in  ashes  in  an  open  situation,  and  duly  attended  to 
for  water,  and  keeping  the  foliage  clean,  will  be  in  excellent  condition 
for  forcing  again,  the  fruit  ripening  somewhat  earlier  in  the  second 
than  first  year  of  forcing.  The  house  will  thus  be  at  liberty  for  pro¬ 
ducing  a  crop  of  Cucumbers,  Melons,  or  Tomatoes,  as  may  be  desired, 
and  two  crops  had  from  the  structure  in  one  season. 
Thus  the  culture  of  trees  in  pots  has  an  advantage  over  that  of  the 
planted-out  system.  Still  trees  can  be  grown  very  successfully  when 
planted  in  borders,  and  for  early  work  these  should  be  wholly  inside,  and 
neither  too  wide  nor  too  deep.  A  border  two-thirds  the  width  of  that  of 
the  trellis,  18  inches  depth  or  soil  and  a  foot  of  drainage,  the  top  6  inches 
of  chalk  or  old  mortar  rubbish,  answers  well.  Cordons  2  feet  apart 
quickly  cover  the  trellis,  which  should  be  about  a  foot  from  the  glass. 
The  roof-lights  of  planted-out  Cherry  houses  should  be  movable,  and 
provision  must  be  made  for  ample  \entilation,  also  due  regard  had  to 
efficient  heating,  for  Cherries  cannot  endure  a  close  atmosphere  or  heat 
radiated  at  a  high  temperature. 
Whether  the  trees  are  in  pots  or  planted  in  the  borders,  th«  fruit  of 
those  started  at  the  new  year  will  be  ripening.  On  the  first  indications 
of  this  the  fruit  must  be  kept  dry,  but  tte  house  should  have  atmospheric 
moisture  furnished  by  damping  the  surface  of  the  borders  and  paths 
occasionally.  Admit  air  constantly,  or  condensation  will  take  place,  and 
moisture  being  deposited  on  the  fruit,  it  will  be  ruined  by  cracking,  and 
instead  of  having  an  agreeable,  be  given  an  unpleasant  flavour.  This  is 
a  main  point  in  growing  Cherries  under  glass.  Another  is  not  to  allow 
the  trees  to  suffer  from  dryness  at  the  roots,  but  the  soil  be  kept  in  a 
moist  condition,  an  examination  being  made  daily  of  trees  in  pots,  and 
those  in  borders  periodically,  and  whenever  a  supply  is  needed  afford  it 
thoroughly  without  delay. 
Trees  in  pots  require  the  leading  growths  pinched  at  about  the  sixth 
leaf  and  side  grow  ths  at  the  third  joint.  Those  on  trellises  must  have  the 
shoots  tied  in  as  they  advance  in  growth,  leaving  no  more  than  are 
necessary  for  furnishing  the  trellis  regularly,  allowing  sufficient  space  for 
the  spurs,  and  top  those  not  required  for  training  in  at  about  the  fifth  leaf, 
pinching  subsequent  growths  to  one  leaf. 
The  house  should  be  freely  ventilated  on  all  favourable  occasions,  and 
when  the  external  conditions  are  unfavourable  recourse  must  be  had  to 
the  heating  apparatus  to  insure  a  circulation  of  w  arm,  moderately'  dry 
air.  Netting  will  be  required  over  the  ventilators  to  prevent  the  birds 
attacking  the  Cherries.  Black  aphides  must  be  kept  under  by  dipping 
the  shoots  or  leaves  m  tobacco  water.  This  pest  soon  spoils  the  fruit, 
therefore  keep  a  sharp  look  out  and  destroy  the  first  ana  every  one  seen. — 
Yoekshireman. 
THE  YOV^a  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
New  Zealand  Spinach. 
Spinach  is  one  of  the  most  useful  green  vegetables  that  we  have,  and 
is  in  great  demand  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months.  But  in  hot 
dry  weather  there  is  often  a  difficulty  in  maintaining  a  constant  supply  of 
good  succulent  leaves  from  the  ordinary  variety,  owing  to  the  plants 
running  to  seed  ere  they  have  attained  any  size.  New  Zealand  Spinach 
will  prove  a  splendid  substitute,  and  though  not  so  good  in  quality,  it  is 
less  trouble  to  grow  and  far  more  remunerative.  Being  a  native  of  a 
warmer  clime  than  ours,  it  requires  a  warm  and  sheltered  spot  when 
planted  out.  Our  modus  oj.crandi  is  as  follows. 
We  sow  our  seeds  in  April  in  an  ordinary  seed  pan,  and  place  in  a 
hotbed  till  germination  takes  place,  when  they  are  removed  to  a  vinery 
shelf  close  to  the  glass,  in  a  night  temperature  of  55°.  As  soon  as  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle,  they  are  placed  three  round  the 
sides  of  48-pots,  using  ordinary  loam  as  a  compost,  and  allow  them  to 
remain  in  the  vinery  ;  when  they  have  recovered  from  the  slight  check 
they  are  transferred  to  a  cold  frame  to  receive  another  shift  into  a  24-pot 
later.  Keeping  the  plants  three  in  a  pot,  we  grow  half  a  dozen  pots  in 
this  manner,  picking  out  the  three  best  for  a  prepared  border,  the  others 
we  plant  amongst  the  Gooseberry  bushes  to  take  their  chance.  This 
Spinach  is  of  a  spreading  habit,  therefore  it  must  have  ample  space.  Our 
most  suitable  place  for  planting  is  a  wide  border  facing  south,  with  a  rich 
compost,  making  up  three  mounds,  4  feet  apart,  each  composed  of  one 
barrowload  of  well  decayed  stable  manure  to  one  of  garden  soil  ;  by  so 
doing  the  roofs  are  kept  much  warmer  than  when  planted  on  the  flat. 
We  consider  it  less  trouble  to  grow  the  plants  in  pots,  and  give  the 
shelter  of  a  cold  frame,  planting  in  June,  than  to  plant  out  earlier  and 
incur  the  risk  of  cold  winds  and  rain,  which  would  lead  to  extra  trouble 
in  covering,  besides  giving  the  plant  a  severe  check.  By  protecting  the 
Spinach  with  mats  in  the  autumn  we  have  had  a  good  supply  up  to  the 
middle  of  November. — Parvo. 
The  GoosEBERRy, 
Amongst  the  many  different  fruits  which  are  at  present  grown 
Gooseberries  take  a  very  prominent  place,  as  they  are  always  useful 
either  for  dessert  or  culinary  purposes.  The  best  system  to  adopt 
in  making  a  new  plantation  is  to  obtain  from  some  of  the  leading  nursery¬ 
men  young  trees  of  good  sorts,  the  names  of  which  are  hardly  worth 
mentioning,  as  there  are  so  many  from  which  to  choose.  Obtain  trees 
with  long  stems,  for  if  the  branches  are  very  close  to  the  ground  many 
of  the  fruits  are  spoilt,  and  it  is  difficult  to  do  the  necessary  cleaning 
amongst  the  bushes  during  the  summer.  Previous  to  planting  the  ground 
should  be  well  manured  and  deeply  dug  at  the  end  of  autumn,  so  that  the 
early  frosts  can  get  into  it.  November  is  the  beAtimefor  planting,  or  as  soon 
as  the  weather  permits.  The  distance  between  the  rows  should  not  be 
less  than  5  feet,  but  if  young  trees  are  being  planted  they  may  be  placed 
2  feet  apart  in  the  rows,  so  that  when  they  have  grown  and  are  touching 
each  other,  every  other  one  can  be  lifted  and  planted  afresh.  In  planting 
do  not  bury  the  roots  too  deeplj’. 
It  is  advisable  during  the  winter  and  early  spring  to  sprinkle  a  little 
lime  over  the  trees  occasionally  to  prevent  the  birds  from  deitroying  the 
buds,  and  it  is  best  done  after  a  shower  of  rain.  The  pruning  should  be 
left  until  the  beginning  of  February,  as  it  can  then  be  seen  what  to  cut 
out,  but  if  newly  planted  they  will  require  little  pruning,  merely  shorten¬ 
ing  the  longest  growths.  Gooseberries  are  lovers  of  air  and  light,  so  when 
pruning  old  trees  the  centres  should  kept  perfectly  open. 
During  the  summer,  if  the  weather  is  very  hot,  it  will  be  found 
beneficial  if  some  light  manure  is  placed  between  the  rows  to  prevent 
evaporation.  If  the  trees  have  a  heavy  crop  of  fruit  on  them  it  will  be 
necessary  to  thin  them  if  large  fruits  are  required.  It  may  be  done  when 
they  are  about  the  size  of  peas,  or  a  little  larger,  as  they  will  then  be 
useful  for  cooking.  The  fruits  for  dessert  w  ill  require  netting  when  they 
commence  to  ripen  to  keep  birds  from  them,  as  these  pests  are  very 
destructive.  I  may  say,  if  fresh  plantations  are  made  the  space  between 
the  rows  can  be  utilised  for  such  plants  as  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  or  any 
of  the  Borecoles  ;  a  single  row  will  be  suflBcient. — P.  E. 
yOKK.F0fi.THEWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Disbudding  Fruit  Trees.— Ail  fruit  trees  which  are  cultivated  on 
wall?,  and  to  some  extent  restricted  trees  in  the  open,  especially  young 
stock,  require  more  or  less  disbudding  or  rubbing  out  superfluous  shoots^ 
The  practice  of  disbudding  is  employed  chiefly  on  Apricots,  Peaches,  and 
Nectarines  and  it  is  to  these  trees  that  attention  should  be  first  directed. 
Apricots.— These  trees  on  walls  must  now  be  frequently  examined*, 
and  all  the  useless  and  superfluous  shoots  carefully  removed.  Many  of 
the  growths  of  Apricots  which  cannot  be  tied  or  nailed  in  may,  if 
.well  placed,  be  pinched  to  several  kaies  for  forming  spurs.  It  is  not 
desirable,  however,  to  encourage  spurs  in  inconvenient  places.  Short 
stubby  shoots  do  not  require  removal,  as  these  are  natural  spurs,  and 
will  produce  fruit.  Longer  growths  pinched  back  to  three  leaves  will 
eventually  form  artificial  spurs  of  a  fruiting  character.  There  is  the 
danger  of  originating  too  many  and  crowding  the  trees.  The  best 
placed  of  the  current  seasi  n's  growths  may  be  laid  in  freely  but  not 
thickly.  The  rest  which  are  not  wanted  for  any  purpose  may  be  cut  out 
entirely'.  These  details,  if  carried  out  gradually,  will  not  distress  the 
trees  or  check  growth. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  In  commencing  to  disbud,  deal  with  the- 
upper  parts  of  the  trees  first,  rubbing  or  cutting  out  the  ill-placed 
shoots  and  those  next  to  the  wall,  which  cannot  possibly  be  of  any  use. 
Make  a  selection  of  the  best  shoots  for  retaining  to  eventually  lay  in. 
One  must  bo  at  the  base  of  tbe  current  bearing  shoot,  and  another  should 
extend  above  the  fruit  in  order  that  I  he  latter  may  have  a  due  supply  of 
nourishment.  The  formation  of  artificial  spurs  is  not  so  freely  adopted 
with  Peaches  and  Nectaiines,  as  the  best  fruit  is  produced  on  young 
wood,  and  it  is  usual  for  the  whole  crop  to  be  produced  on  wood  of  this 
character.  The  most  vigorous  parts  of  the  trees  should  be  disbudded 
first,  leaving  the  more  weakly  parts  to  strengthen  for  a  time.  Leave  the- 
shoots  on  the  upper  parts  of  the  branches  for  extending,  and  the  under 
sides  clear.  Strong,  sappy  growths  are  not  desirable  for  retention,  such 
invariably  starting  from  dormant  buds  in  the  old  wood.  They  indicate 
rather  deep  root  action.  The  best  way  of  dealing  with  them  is  to  rub  or 
cut  them  clean  out. 
Plums  and  Cherries.  — Disbudding  tbe  growths  on  these  fruits  is  chiefly 
confined  to  wall  trees  and  young  specimens  in  the  course  of  formation. 
In  all  forms  of  training  disbudding  is  largely  of  assistance  in  shaping  the 
trees,  and  preventing  an  undue  extension  of  wood  and  crowded  shoots  to 
develop  in  summer.  A  set  of  principal  branches  must  be  originated,  and 
spur  growths  gradually  formed  upon  them  in  front.  During  this  process 
disbudding  is  useful  in  making  a  proper  selection,  and  it  is  obvious  that 
when  the  spurs  are  older  there  will  be  a  number  of  grow  ths  early  requiring 
removal.  For  instance,  ill-placed  shoots  develop  behind  branches  and 
spurs.  There  must  be  tubbed  or  cut  out  as  soon  as  possible.  Growths 
that  are  well  placed  may  be  too  numerous,  in  which  case  a  selection 
must  be  made  of  the  best,  and  it  will  require  a  certain  amount  of  firmness 
to  avoid  retaining  too  many.  When  there  are  ample  principal  and 
secondary  growths  the  strong  sappy  growths,  or  robbers,  starting  frona 
various  parts  of  the  trees,  should  be  early  reduced  or  removed. 
