Anril  27,  18S9. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
351 
The  treatment  of  the  Morello  section  of  Cherries  is  similar  in  every 
respect  to  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Fruit  is  freely  produced  on  young 
grow  ths  of  the  previous  year,  an-l  the  aim  of  the  grower  must  be  directed 
to  securing  a  good  selection  of  medium-sized  growths  to  lay  in  for  the 
succeeding  year.  The  best  fcr  this  purpose  can  only  be  resolved  upon  by 
projoer  examination,  but  it  w'ill  bo  found  that  one,  or  not  more  than  two, 
as  near  the  base  of  the  current  bearing  shoot  as  possible,  are  the  best.  A 
combination  of  spurs  and  young  shoots  for  laying-in  is  favoured  in  some 
cases,  but  there  is  little  doubt  that  decidedly  the  best  results  are  secured 
'from  the  annual  renewal. 
Apples  and  Fears. — Disbudding  in  spring  on  many  wall  trees  is  more 
needed  than  practised.  Old  established  trees  are  not  only  loo  much 
crowded  with  spurs,  but  are  very  much  overloaded  with  growths  from 
them,  as  well  as  new  shoots  from  dormant  buds.  As,  soon,  therefore,  as 
possible  when  growths  push  forth  attention  should  be  directed  to  the 
removal  of  any  likely  to  be  superfluous.  Much  good  will  result  from 
this,  giving  the  better  growths  more  room.  Young  trees  may  be  trained 
and  regulated  in  any  shape  or  form  by  judicious  disbudding  in  the  early 
stages.  Much  of  the  spray  growth  in  standard  trees  might  readily  be 
reduced  by  rubbing  it  out  when  young,  instead  of  allow  ing  it  to  develop 
into  long  shoots  which  need  cutting  out.  Cordon  Apples  and  Pears 
should  be  specially  attended  to  in  the  matter  of  disbudding,  inasmuch  as  a 
fruitful  condition  is  an  important  point.  The  errors  of  overcrowding  are 
quickly  apparent  in  this  form  of  culture,  therefore  every  endeavour  ought 
to  be  made  to  induce  the  formation  of  good  growths,  and  afford  them 
every  opportunity  of  maturing  well. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  in  hot- water  heated  pits  or  houses  may  be 
syringed  with  clear  rain  water  twice  a  day,  so  that  every  part  of  the 
foliage  may  be  kept  free  of  red  spider,  but  it  must  be  done  without 
damaging  the  leaves,  which  are  brittle  and  easily  injured.  Plants  in 
full  bearing  require  liberal  and  frequent  applications  of  liquid  manure 
at  a  temperature  about  the  same  as  the  bed,  but  do  not  supply  it  so 
as  to  cause  a  soft  growth.  Avoid  crowding  and  overcropping.  Main¬ 
tain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially, 
and  as  the  fire  heat  is  lessened  there  will  be  less  need  of  moisture,  but 
this  must  be  well  sustained  to  insure  healthy  and  clean  growth  in 
foliage  and  fruit.  Attend  to  the  necessary  stopping,  thinning,  and  tying 
of  the  shoots,  maintaining  a  succession  of  fruitful  growths. 
Plants  in  pits  and  frames  should  be  frequently  seen  to  for  the  regu¬ 
lation  of  the  growth,  keeping  them  rather  thin,  stopped  to  one  joint 
beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  and  removing  bad  leaves  as  they  appear.  A 
sprinkling  at  closing  time  will  be  sufficient  for  the  plants,  not  allowing 
them  to  suffer  for  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots.  Ventilate  early,  increase 
It  with  the  heat,  and  close  in  the  afternoon  so  as  to  maintain  a  good 
temperature  well  into  the  night.  Attend  to  the  linings,  taking  care  to 
prevent  rank  steam  getting  into  the  frames  or  pits,  and  afford  covering 
over  the  lights  for  some  weeks  longer,  or  until  the  weather  becomes  so 
warm  that  the  night  temperature  of  the  frame  does  not  fall  below  65°. 
Melons. — Early  Plants. — Directly  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen  lessen 
the  supply  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  not  so  as  to  distress  the  plants,  for  if 
the  foliage  has  been  kept  clean  and  the  roots  in  good  condition  a  second 
crop  of  fruit  may  be  had.  Atmospheric  moisture  should  be  withheld,  and 
a  circulation  of  dry  warm  air  insured,  increasing  the  temperature  to  70°  or 
75°  artificially,  and  80°  to  90°  with  sun  heat.  Cracked  fruits  are  mostly 
produced  by  keeping  the  plants  too  dry  during  the  swelling  period,  and 
by  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere  with  too  much  water  at  the  roots  when 
ripening,  which  induces  an  excess  of  sap  and  consequent  effort  at  growth. 
Cut  the  fruits  before  they  are  very  ripe,  keeping  them  on  shelves  in  a 
warm  house  until  they  are  in  proper  condition,  or  they  may  be  removed 
to  a  fruit  room  for  two  or  three  days  to  become  equally  ripened  all 
over. 
Successional  Plants. — Fertilise  the  blossoms  when  fully  expanded,  the 
atmosphere  being  kept  rather  drier  and  warmer,  and  ventilation  attended 
to  early,  with  a  little  constantly  if  there  is  danger  of  moisture  condensing 
on  the  blossoms.  Stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  the  fertilisation  is  done  one 
joint  beyond  the  fruit.  To  insure  a  full  crop  have  a  number  of  fruits 
on  different  plants  in  the  same  stage  of  growth.  Earth  the  plants  with 
some  rather  strong  and  rich  loam  after  the  fruits  begin  to  swell,  ramming 
it  firmly,  placing  a  little  fresh  lime  round  the  stem  to  prevent  canker,  and 
if  it  appear  rub  the  quicklime  well  into  the  affected  parts. 
Plants  swelling  their  fruits  should  be  syringed  freely  in  hot  weather 
at  about  3  p.m  ,  or  earlier  if  necessity  arise  for  closing,  damping  the  fioor 
in  the  morning  and  in  the  evening,  using  liquid  manure  occasionally. 
Shade  only  to  prevent  flagging.  Ventilate  freely  in  favourable  weather, 
commencing  from  75°  to  80°,  increasing  or  decreasing  it  during  the  day 
as  may  be  necessary,  maintaining  a  day  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  or  90° 
with  sun  heat,  closing  between  80°  and  85°.  If  red  spider  or  white  fly 
appear,  cover  the  hot-water  pipes  with  a  thin  wash  of  towers  of  sulphur 
and  skim  milk,  and  for  aphides  and  Hhrips  fqmigate  on  two  or  three 
successive  evenings. 
Train  the  growths  of  plants  in  pits  and  frames  regularly,  avoiding 
overcrowding,  and  when  the  blossoms  appear,  fertilise  them  about  mid-day. 
Maintain  a  good  bottom  heat  by  linings,  and  admit  a  little  air  if  there  is 
danger  to  be  apprehended  from  rank  steam.  Employ  thick  night  cover¬ 
ings,  as  the  nights  are  yet  cold,  but  do  not  allow  the  covering  to  hang 
over  the  linings  of  fresh  manure,  and  so  injure  the  plants  by  introducing 
steam  into  the  interior.  Sow  seeds  for  raising  plants  to  put  out  in  pits 
and  frames  as  they  become  cleared  of  bedding  plants,  and  pot  the  seed¬ 
lings  as  they  require  it. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  very  early 
varieties  are  now  ripening,  and  the  trees  must  not  be  syringed,  but  the 
border  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry.  As  the  fruit  of  the  other 
varieties  will  not  be  ripe  for  some  time  yet,  the  atmosphere  must  be  kept 
genial  by  sprinkling  the  borders  and  paths  as  they  become  dry,  syringing 
the  trees  in  the  morning,  and  again  when  closing  the  houses.  The  night 
temperature  may  be  kept  at  65°  to  70°,  but  5’  less,  though  it  will  retard 
the  ripening,  will  not  tax  the  energies  of  the  trees  so  much  as  the  higher 
temperatures.  Leaving  the  ventilators  slightly  open  constantly  at  the 
upper  part  of  the  house  will  be  an  advantage.  In  the  daytime,  70°  to  75° 
by  artificial  means,  and  10°  to  15°  more  with  sun  heat,  will  be  suitable 
temperatures. 
Trees  Stoning  the  Fiuit — Do  not  hurry  the  tree.s  undergoing  this 
process,  60°  to  65°  at  night  is  ample,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  avoiding  high 
night  temperatures  and  sudden  fluctuations.  A  little  air  left  on  at  night 
will  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  foliage  through  the  night  to 
any  serious  extent  ;  enlaige  the  openings  when  the  sun  acts  on  the  house, 
3et,  without  lowering  the  temperature,  which  should  advance  with  the 
increased  power  of  the  sun.  and  a  corresponding  increase  of  ventilation. 
Fumigation  should,  if  possible,  be  avoided.  It  dries  the  atmosphere,  and 
not  infrequently  cripples  the  foliage,  when  the  fruit  may  from  the  check 
be  seriously  imperilled  and  fall.  Early  closing  is  an  advantage,  but  it 
must  not  be  done  to  the  exUnt  of  undue  excitement,  nor  continued  until 
late,  the  temperature  being  allow’ed  to  fall  with  the  declining  sun.  It  is 
aho  advisable  to  allow  a  little  extra  latitude  to  the  growth,  but  on  no 
account  permit  foliage  to  be  made  that  must  afterwards  be  removed  in 
large  amounts.  The  growths  should  be  secured  in  position  as  they 
advance. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Fruits. — The  fruit  swells  rapidly  in  the  early  stages, 
and  up  to  the  commencement  of  the  stoning  process.  The  swelling  of 
the  fruits  is  materially  assisted  by  the  maintenance  of  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  and  the  means  employed  to  secure  a  good  root  action, 
which  is  best  effected  by  a  judicious  and  gradual  regulation  of  the  growth 
by  the  process  of  disbudding  and  in  thinning  the  fruits.  These  operations 
should  be  done  carefully,  the  more  vigorous  the  tree  the  greater  the 
danger  of  the  fruit  being  cast  in  stoning,  and  the  evil  is  often  aggravated 
by  previously  disbudding  severely,  which  favours  strong  growth  more 
than  steady  progress.  Supply  water  thoroughly  to  inside  borders  when 
necessary,  lay  in  the  shoots  so  as  to  induce  them  to  grow  in  the  proper 
direction,  allowing  room  in  the  ligature.^  for  the  swelling  of  the  growths. 
After  the  fruit  has  stoned  it  takes  the  last  swelling,  when  the  shoots 
should  be  well  tied  down,  but  a  moderate  extension  of  growths  will 
materially  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling.  Any  leaves  that  shade  the  fruit 
should  be  drawn  aside  or  shortened,  and  fruits  on  the  under  side  of  the 
trellis  must  be  raised  on  pieces  of  laths  across  the  wires. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
.  I .  I  -r-  >  -1  -  T  ■  I  ■  I  - 1  - 1  - 1  - 1  m 
Closing  the  Entrance  of  Hives. 
How  long  will  fcees  live  during  the  dull  days  of  winter  if  the 
entrance  is  entirely  closed  ?  This  is  of  interest  to  bee-keepers  who 
reduce  the  entrance  to  their  hives  more  than  is  really  necessary. 
Not  long  ago  a  case  in  point  came  under  our  notice.  In  an  apiary 
in  which  there  were  several  strong  colonies  of  bees  which  had  a 
tendency  for  robbing  last  autumn,  the  entrances  were  reduced  so 
that  only  one  bee  could  pass  through  at  a  time.  No  further  notice 
was  taken  of  them  until  quite  recently,  when  they  were  examined 
so  as  to  ascertain  if  they  required  feeding.  One  can  imagine  the 
surprise  of  the  bee-keeper  who,  on  more  than  one  occasion  during  the 
winter  had  tested  them  for  weight,  to  find  one  of  the  heaviest  hives, 
minus  a  live  bee.  All  the  bees  were  dead  between  the  combs.  They 
had  evidently  been  dead  for  several  weeks. 
On  examining  the  entrance  it  was  found  to  be  quite  closed.  The 
doors  moved  easily  when  touched,  and  had  doubtless  been  closed  acci¬ 
dentally  by  the  wind.  How  long  they  had  been  in  this  condition  it 
was  impossible  to  say  with  any  degree  of  certainty.  We  are  inclined 
to  think  that  bees  would  live  for  several  weeks  with  the  entrance  quite 
closed  if  a  low  temperature  prevailed  the  whole  of  the  time,  as  the 
majority  of  hives  are  not  made  so  close  fitting  in  every  part  but  that 
a  little  air  could  get  in ;  but  should  the  sun  come  out  brightly  and 
strike  directly  on  the  entrance  it  would  excite  the  bees,  and  in  their 
endeavour  to  get  out  they  would  soon  become  suffocated. 
In  the  case  alluded  to  we  w'ere  enabled  to  examine  the  hive  a  few 
days  after  it  was  discovered.  The  dead  bees  were  still  clustered 
between  the  combs,  and  had  evidently  been  suffocated.  This  should 
be  a  warning  to  bee-keepers  to  examine  the  entrance  to  their  hives  at 
least  once  a  week  throughout  the  winter.  The  accidental  closing  of 
the  door  would  then  not  be  followed  with  such  serious  results.  There 
is  much  less  danger  of  an  accident  of  this  kind  when  the  entrance  is 
left  open  its  full  width  throughout  the  winter. 
Jb'EEDiNG  Stocks. 
It  is  important  that  bees  should  be  supplied  ivith  ample  stores  at 
all  times.  If  they  cannot  obtain  it  naturally  then  it  must  be  supplied 
