May  4,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
373 
stake  to  each,  and  afford  a  temperature  of  60°  at  night ;  keep  the  house 
rather  close  for  a  few  days  until  root  action  has  recommenced. 
As  the  plants  again  begin  to  root  they  should  be  stopped  if  for  bush 
plants,  but  for  pyramids  this  must  not  be  done  until  they  have  reached 
the  desired  height.  When  the  plants  aro  well  rooted  remove  them  to  a 
house  with  a  temperature  of  50"  to  55°  at  night,  55°  to  60°  by  day.  Do 
not  in  any  way  neglect  the  syringing  at  this  stage  on  bright  days.  A 
little  weak  liquid  manure  will  now  be  founl  beneficial  to  them,  and  as  the 
plants  gain  vigour  apply  it  stronger.  Attend  to  the  tying  and  stopping 
of  the  side  growths  when  needed,  as  this  will  make  compact  plants  ; 
stopping  twice  will  be  sufficient  unless  they  are  required  for  late  flower¬ 
ing.  It  old  plants  are  potted  and  neatly  tied  they  make  a  grand  show 
if  stood  outside  during  the  summer. — D.  K. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — Early  Houses. — The  Vines  started  at  the  nev  year  have  the 
Grapes  in  an  advanced  stage  for  ripening;  some  are  commencing  to 
•colour,  and  will  need  a  circulation  of  warm,  rather  dry  air.  An  arid 
condition  of  the  atmosphere,  however,  must  be  avoided,  inasmuch  as  it  is 
sure  to  induce  an  attack  of  red  spider.  It  is  imperative  to  keep  the 
foliage  clean  and  healthy  for  as  long  a  period  as  possible.  Where  red 
spider  has  obtained  posses'^ion  prompt  measures  must  be  taken  for  its 
destruction.  Recourse  is  sometimes  had  to  the  syringe,  which,  even  when 
the  water  is  clear  and  soft,  is  apt  not  only  to  more  or  less  damage  the 
bloom  of  Grapes  advanced  in  colouring,  but  to  leave  a  deposit  on  the 
berries  greatly  detracting  from  their  appearance.  Sponging  the  leaves 
is  a  safe  means  of  preventing  the  spread  of  the  acari,  and  taken  in  hand 
on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pests  is  not  as  tedious  as  it  seems. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Grapes. — The  earliest  Vines  have  ripened  their  crops 
somewhat  earlier  than  usual,  are  well  coloured,  and  of  excellent 
quality.  Maintain  a  circulation  of  air,  and  allow  the  temperature  to 
fall  to  60°  at  night.  The  soil  must  be  kept  healthfully  moist,  so  fs  to 
keep  the  foliage  in  good  condition.  Moderate  air  moisture  is  also 
essential  to  prevent  the  foliage  prematurely  ripening,  and  it  benefits 
rather  than  prejudices  the  keeping  of  the  Grapes,  provided  the  air  is  not 
stagnant.  The  Grapes  are  liable  to  lose  colour  with  hanging  ;  a  slight 
shade  will  bo  beneficial  in  helping  to  retain  colour,  especially  in  Black 
Hamburgh  and  Madresfield  Court.  A  double  thickness  of  herring 
netting,  or  a  single  thickness  of  pilchard  netting,  placed  on  the  roof- 
lights  is  sufficient.  It  is  also  desirable,  where  it  can  be  practised  without 
crowding  the  principal  leaves,  to  allow  a  moderate  extension  of  the 
laterals,  which  will  tend  to  promote  root  activity,  and  assist  the  Vines  to 
recuperate  their  exhausted  energies. 
Muscats. — The  Vines  started  in  December  and  brought  forward  gently 
in  the  early  stages  are' now  beginning  to  colour.  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
takes  longer  to  colour  than  Madresfield  Court  and  Black  Muscat  (Muscat 
Hamburgh),  and  the  berries  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  are  liable  to  shrivel 
unless  the  Vines  are  well  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at  the 
roots.  When  these  are  provided  a  much  drier  condition  of  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  may  be  allowed  than  is  otherwise  safe,  and  it  is  absolutely  essential 
to  good  finish  in  Muscats,  for  when  in  a  saturated  atmosphere  there  is 
danger  of  “  spotting,”  and  what  is  gained  in  size  is  lost  in  colour  and 
quality.  Directly  the  Grapes  change  colour  give  a  thorough  supply  of 
water  or  liquid  manure,  following  with  a  mulch  of  sw-eet,  rather  strawy 
material,  a  couple  of  inches  thickness  sufficing,  and  being  dry  it  will 
prevent  too  much  moisture  arising,  whilst  keeping  the  soil  moist. 
Muscat  of  Alexandria  is  liable  to  have  the  upper  berries  of  the  bunches 
scorched  by  the  sun  when  the  Grapes  are  ripening,  which  is  due  to  the 
sun  acting  powerfully  on  the  epidermis,  whilst,  perhaps  though  imper¬ 
ceptibly,  covered  with  moisture.  As  a  safeguard  against  scorching  a 
elight  shade  should  be  provided,  ventilating  early,  and  increasing  the  air 
with  advancing  sun  heat,  but  allowing  a  high  temperature  by  that  means. 
A  little  more  time  is  required  with  the  shade,  but  it  well  repays  the 
outlay,  as  the  losses  from  scorched  Grapes  are  sometimes  considerable 
where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  and  when  the  weather  is  bright. 
Muscats  in  flower  set  freely  with  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  75°  by 
•day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun  neat,  always  with  a  circulation  of  air. 
The  points  of  the  bunches  should  bo  kept  well  up  to  the  light.  When 
the  caps  of  the  flower  are  being  cast,  it  is  advisable  to  rap  the  bunches 
lightly,  better  still  to  gently  go  over  each  bunch  with  a  camel’s- hair 
brush  and  follow  soon  afterwards,  or  when  the  caps  are  off,  with  another 
brush  laden  with  pollen  taken  from  such  free-setting  varieties  as  Alicante, 
Black  Hamburgh,  and  Foster’s  Seedling.  The  influence  of  foreign  pollen 
Is  far  more  potent,  and  secures  finer  berries  than  impregnation  of  a 
variety  of  Grape  or  other  fruit  with  its  own  pollen,  which  is  often  inert 
from  continued  in-and-in  breeding. 
Succession  Houses. — Follow  up  the  thinning  of  the  bunches  and  berries, 
also  tying,  disbudding,  stopping,  and  regulating  the  growths.  Allow  crops 
proportionate  to  the  vigour  of  the  Vines,  and  retain  as  much  foliage  as 
can  have  full  exposure  to  light.  Examine  the  borders  at  least  once 
weekly,  and  when  dry  water  freely,  assisting  those  in  full  foliage  and 
carrying  heavy  crops  with  tepid  liquid  manure  or  top-dressings  of 
fertilisers  washed  in  moderately,  mulching  with  an  inch  or  two  thickness 
of  rather  lumpy  sweet  manure.  Well-drained  inside  borders  will  take 
almost  any  amount  of  water  after  the  Vines  are  in  full  foliage,  it  havintr 
a  hygienic  as  well  as  a  moisture-supplying  effect.  Excessive  watering, 
however,  causes  a  soddened  and  sour  condition  ot  the  soil  which  commonly 
results  in  shanking  and  bad  finish.  Ventilate  early,  it  assists  accumulated 
moisture  to  disperse,  gives  texture  to  the  foliage  and  firmness  to  the  w'ood, 
besides  securing  a  full  amount  of  stored  matter.  Allow  a  high  day 
temperature  from  sun  heat,  closing  early,  alike  to  push  ahead  the  crop 
and  to  store  the  sun-warmed  atmosphere.  At  night  a  temperature  of 
60°  to  6.5°  is  best,  especially  for  Vines  carrj  ing  heavy  crops. 
Late  Houses. — Disbudding,  also  tying,  and  stopping  the  growths,  must 
be  attended  to  as  they  become  sufficiently  advanced.  Every  advantage 
of  sun  heat  should  betaken  to  increase  the  ventilation  early  in  the  day, 
and  of  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  as  a  means  of  securing  a  long  day's 
work,  and  of  vigour  end  health  in  the  Vines,  dispensing  with  fire  heat  as 
much  as  possible,  yet  employing  enough  to  keep  the  Vines  in  steady 
progress.  Make  selection  of  the  bun  hes  that  are  to  remain  for  the  crop, 
large  ones,  especially  loose,  being  the  worst  for  finish,  and  the 
medium-sized  and  compact  the  best  for  perfecting  properly  and  keeping. 
Crop  lightly  rather  than  heavily,  and  apportion  the  crop  to  the  vigour  and 
variety  of  the  Vine. 
Late  Hambuj'ghs. — These  and  other  summer  Grapes  will  have  star  ed 
naturally,  and  require  disbudding,  tying  down,  and  regulating,  not  leaving 
more  growths  than  can  have  space  for  the  full  expansion  of  the  foliage.  In 
stopping  allow  two,  preferably  f^ur,  joints  of  growth  beyond  the  show  of  fruit, 
and  pinch  the  laterals  below  it  to  one  joint  as  made,  but  above  the  bunch 
allow  them  to  extend  so  as  to  insure  an  equal  covering  of  the  space  with 
foliage  that  can  have  exposure  to  light  ;  afterwards  keep  them  pinched 
to  one  leaf  as  new  growth  is  made.  Where  the  space  is  restricted  closer 
stopping  may  be  practised,  not  allowing  the  laterals  to  interfere  with  the 
principal  leaves.  Ventilate  early  and  freely  so  as  to  insure  short-jointed 
stout  wood  and  thick  leathery  foliage.  Avoid  a  saturated  condition  of 
the  atmosphere,  yet  a  genial  state  must  bo  provided  by  syringing  the 
borders,  walls,  and  paths  in  the  morning  and  at  closing  time.  Have 
the  borders  properly  moist,  yet  avoid  saturating  them,  and  encourage 
surface  roots  by  a  light  mulching  of  lumpy  material. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Borecole. — It  is  not  yet  too  late  to  sow  seeds  of  Borecole,  though  the 
most  productive  plants  are  raised  and  finally  planted  earlier.  The  seeds 
of  Buda  or  Asparagus  Kale  may  be  sown  during  the  next  month  or 
so  thinly  in  drills  18  inches  apart,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain, 
eventually  thinning  them  to  about  6  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Thus 
treated  excellent  crops  will  be  had  next  spring. 
Broccoli. — Where  space  is  limited  and  the  ground  has  to  be  kept 
closely  cropped,  late  raised  Broccoli  plants  are  the  most  reliable,  not 
having  time  to  become  leggy  before  the  ground  can  be  spared  for  their 
reception.  Sow  the  seeds  in  a  sunny  open  position,  either  in  drills  5  inches 
apart  or  broadcast.  In  showery  weather  dust  over  the  young  plants 
occasionally  with  soot  and  lime  to  save  them  from  slug^.  Early  raised 
Veitch’s  Autunm  or  other  popular  early  Broccoli  ought  to  be  finally 
planted  24  inches  to  30  inches  apart  cn  good  ground  before  they  weaken 
each  other  in  the  boxes  or  nursery  beds  in  which  they  are  pricked  out. 
A  pinch  of  seed  may  be  sown  with  a  view  to  having  late  plants  for  storing 
in  pits  next  autumn. 
Cauliflower. — Plants  of  Snowball  and  its  synonyms  in  pits  and  rough 
frames  should  not  be  hard  forced.  Draw  the  lights  off  them  on 
warm  bright  days,  closing  moderately  early,  and  protecting  with  mats  or 
litter  on  cold  nights.  When  the  hearts  commence  forming  feed  liberally 
at  the  roots.  Treat  those  in  hand-lights  similarly.  Plant  successional 
stock  ft  the  foot  of  sunny  walls  and  on  warm  borders  in  rich  soil.  The 
autumn-raised  plants  of  Autumn  Giant  that  are  wanted  to  produce  extra 
fine  hearts  next  August  should  be  put  out  on  rich  ground,  and  allowed 
plenty  of  room. 
Cabbage  — If  the  breadths  of  Cabbage  are  not  making  such  rapid 
progress  as  is  desirable,  draw  soil  up  to  the  stems,  and  in  the  furrows  thus 
made  pour  strong  liquid  manure.  Or,  if  the  weather  is  showery,  sow 
nitrate  of  soda,  at  the  rate  of  1  oz.  to  the  square  yard,  among  the  plants. 
Commence-cutting  directly  some  of  the  heans  are  fit,  not  waiting  till  they 
are  hard,  and  from  the  stumps  left  good  successional  heads  will  result. 
Red  or  pickling  Cabbage  should  have  a  rather  long  period  of  growth. 
Plant  on  good  ground  directly  the  plants  are  large  enough  for  the 
purpose. 
Lettuce. — Plants  of  Cabbage  and  Cos  varieties  should  be  put  out  every 
fortnight  or  so.  In  hot  dry  weather  Lettuce  transplants  badly,  and  from 
this  date  onwards  the  seed  should  be  sown  where  enough  plants  are  to 
remain  to  form  good  rows.  The  ridges  between  Celery  trenches  are 
excellent  positions  for  summer  Lettuces.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  shallow 
drills  10  inches  to  12  inches  apart,  covering  with  flne  soil.  It  is  worthy 
ot  note  that  Lettuce  succeeds  well  ou  the  ridges  just  alluded  to  without 
any  addition  of  solid  manure,  but  will  fail,  or  make  poor  progress, 
on  the  level  unless  the  ground  is  heavily  manured. 
Tomatoes. — Old  plants  can  be  made  to  produce  good  second  crops,  but 
these  rarely  tqual  those  obtained  from  young  plants.  Those,  then,  now 
carrying  heavy  crops,  some  of  which  are  already  ripening,  should  be  kept 
free  of  superfluous  growth,  concentrating  the  strength  of  the  plants  on  the 
crops  they  aro  producing,  with  a  view  to  increasing  their  weight.  Sow 
more  seed  in  May,  and  prepare  strong  plants  for  producing  heavy  crops 
next  autumn.  Plants  carrying  two  or  three  clusters  of  fruit  require 
abundance  of  water,  and  frequent  supplies  of  liquid  manure.  The  roots 
