394 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  11,  1899;. 
THE  YOUNG  GAHDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
The  Sheubbery  Boeder, 
Nearta'  every  establishment  has  one  or  more  borders  devoted  to 
ornamental  trees  and  dowering  shrubs,  but  how  often  are  these  left  year 
after  year  to  take  care  of  themselves,  with  the  inevitable  result  that  they 
rob  each  other  of  their  natural  beauty.  Few  borders  are  more  charming 
■when  well  kept,  and  if  the  ground  were  well  trenched  and  manured,  and 
burnt  garden  refuse  incorporated,  before  the  trees  were  planted,  none 
would  look  more  beautiful.  Newly  formed  borders,  where  the  trees  have 
vacant  spaces  between,  may  be  planted  with  annuals  :  but  these  should 
not  be  sown  or  planted  thickly.  Poppies  form  a  mam  feature  in  some 
gardens,  but  even  a  Poppy  thrives  better  with  “  elbow  room  ;  ”  and  therefore 
should  not  be  crowded,  so  that  one  plant  produces  only  one  bloom,  as 
is  often  the  case.  There  are  many  annuals  which  can  be  suitably 
employed,  and  give  a  grand  effect  if  judiciously  planted,  not  forgetting 
the  fragrant  Nicotiana  afBnis  for  an  evening  display. 
Provided  the  spaces  at  command  are  large  enough.  Dahlias, 
Delphiniums,  Hollyhocks,  Foxgloves,  Campanula  pyramidalis,  and 
Helianthus  in  variety  will  add  to  the  general  effect.  Then,  again, 
bulbs  in  many  varieties,  to  give  an  early  and  late  spring  display,  cannot 
be  omitted,  for  what  gladdens  the  heart  more  than  these  useful  and 
pretty  flowers,  which  tell  that  spring  has  come  again  ?  For  many  years 
after  planting,  the  borders  can  be  kept  quite  gay  from  February  to 
November.  The  annuals,  if  sown  in  autumn,  will  provide  a  much  earlier 
summer  display  than  when  they  are  sown  in  early  April.  But  in  no  case 
should  a  mass  of  self-sown  plants  be  tolerated,  or  the  shrubs  will  suffer. 
It  will  be  much  the  better  plan  to  lightly  fork  over  the  vacant  spaces 
between  shrubs,  and  sow  the  seed  in  ringlets  1  foot  in  diameter,  both  in 
the  autumn  and  spring  months. — Foreman  X. 
Dahlias, 
Where  Dahlias  are  largely  grown  there  are  few  plants  that  make  a 
better  display,  and  they  are  always  useful  for  cut  flowers  and  decorative 
purposes,  especially  the  singles  and  Cactus  varieties.  The  object  with 
Dahlias  is  to  obtain  large,  strong,  hardy  plants  by  the  time  it  is  safe  for 
planting  outside,  but  of  course  no  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  made  for 
this  operation. 
The  old  tubers  that  were  lifted  and  stored  in  the  autumn  should  be 
carefully  examined  and  placed  in  a  temperature  of  G0°  to  65°  at  night, 
65°  to  70°  by  day,  about  the  middle  of  January,  covering  them  with  cocoa- 
nut  fibre  reluse  and  giving  an  occasional  damping  until  they  have  made 
a  start.  When  the  tubers  have  made  growths  about  an  inch  in  length 
some  of  them  may  be  taken  with  a  little  of  the  tuber  attached,  and  be 
potted  in  thumbs  if  an  increase  of  stock  is  desired.  Do  not  let  the  growths 
get  too  far  advanced  before  dividing  the  old  tubers  ;  two  shoots  on  each 
division  will  be  sufficient.  Pot  them  in  small  or  large  48’s,  according  to 
their  size,  using  a  compost  of  two  parts  of  loam,  one  of  leaf  soil  and  sweet 
horse  droppings,  with  sufficient  sand  to  keep  it  porous,  affording  a 
temperature  of  65°  at  night.  It  will  be  found  necessary  to  lightly  damp 
occasionally  and  shade  the  plants  when  the  weather  is  bright  until  they 
have  made  a  good  start. 
After  the  plants  have  produced  a  fair  amount  of  root  they  should  be 
removed  to  a  cooler  house,  5.5°  at  night  will  be  suitable,  and  a  neat  stake 
must  be  placed  to  each.  It  is  necessary  at  this  stage  to  look  over  them 
twice  daily  when  the  weather  is  bright,  as  there  must  he  no  lack  of 
moisture,  and  a  little  weak  liquid  manure  given  occasionally  will  be 
advantageous.  As  time  goes  on  and  the  sun  gains  power  the  plants 
must  go  to  cooler  quarters,  but  they  should  be  covered  at  night  for  some 
time.  Give  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  and  as  soon  as  they  can  stand 
being  fully  exposed  remove  the  lights,  but  keep  them  in  readiness  in  case 
of  rough  w  eather. 
When  the  time  has  arrived  for  the  final  planting  the  large  varieties 
should  be  placed  at  a  distance  of  5  feet,  and  dwarler  sorts  about  4  feet 
apart,  thus  giving  ample  room  between  them  for  the  necessary  work 
during  the  summer.  Dahlias  are  gross  feeding  plants,  so  in  planting 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  take  out  a  large  hole  and  place  a  supply  of  manure 
in  the  bottom,  covering  this  with  soil  before  the  plants  are  put  in. 
iMake  the  soil  fairly  firm  by  treading  around  them,  and  place  a  st'^'ut  stake 
to  each.  If  the  weather  is  hot  and  dry  at  the  time  of  p  anting,  or  at  any 
time  during  the  summer,  they  should  be  supplied  w  ith  water,  and  occa¬ 
sionally  with  liquid  manure  after  they  have  made  a  good  start.  Attend  to 
the  tying  as  it  is  required  ;  do  not  let  the  plants  become  thick  in  the 
centre,  for  they  always  thrive  better  if  the  air  can  pass  freely  between 
the  growths. 
hen  the  autumn  arrives  and  the  plants  are  cut  with  the  frost  the 
tops  should  be  removed  to  within  9  inches  from  the  ground,  and  the  tubers 
remain  for  a  few  weeks  with  a  little  coal  ashes  thrown  over  them  to  be 
thoroughly  ripened.  The  lifting  and  storing  of  the  tubers  must  be  care¬ 
fully  done,  so  that  none  of  them  gets  injured  in  any  way,  for  if  bruised 
they  w  ill  be  of  little  use  for  another  season. — P.  II. 
New  Eule  of  the  German  Emperor. — The  Kaiser  is  a  man 
of  many  parts,  and  according  to  a  weekly  contemporary,  his  latest 
hobby  is  landscape  gardening.  Under  his  instructions  a  transformation 
of  the  famous  Thiergarten  in  Berlin  is  taking  place.  Trees  in  some 
parts  are  being  cleared  away,  making  open  stretches,  and  in  other 
places  timber  trees  are  being  planted  in  groups  in  accordance  with  the 
idea  of  the  versatile  Emperor.  It  is  a  compliment  to  the  landscape 
gardeners  of  this  country,  for,  as  the  authority  states,  he  intends  to  give 
the  place  more  of  the  pleasant  character  of  an  English  park. 
FKUIT  FOECING. 
Cherry  House. — The  Cherries  are  ripening  rapidly,  and  they  must  bo 
kept  dry,  but  moderate  air  moisture  should  be  maintained  by  damping  the 
floor  with  the  syringe,  air  being  admitted  constantly,  or  condensatioa 
will  seriously  affect  the  fruit.  The  border  must  also  be  examined,  not- 
being  deceived  by  the  surface,  supplying  water  to  keep  the  soil  moist 
down  to  the  drainage.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as  they  advance,  and  atop  those 
required  to  form  spurs  at  about  the  fifih  leaf.  Black  aphides  must  be 
kept  under  by  dipping  the  shoots  affected  in  tobacco  water,  gently 
rubbing  them  with  the  fingers,  or  their  shining  bodies  will  throw  off  the 
decoction.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions,  and  when  the 
external  conditions  are  unfavourable  recourse  must  be  had  to  the  heating 
apparatus  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air.  Netting  will  be  necessary  over 
the  ventilators  to  prevent  birds  attacking  the  Cherries.  Trees  in  pots, 
should  be  well  supplied  with  water. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  some  time,  and  show 
signs  of  exhaustion,  had  better  be  removed  and  their  places  taken  with 
hc.althy  young  plants.  Assist  any  plants  that  show  signs  of  weakness  by 
removing  the  staminate  blossoms  and  the  first  fruits,  stopping  at  every 
third  or  fourth  joint,  removing  all  superfluous  growths.  Shading  will  be 
necessary  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the  day  when  the  sun  is 
hot,  especially  for  houses  facing  south,  but  shade  only  to  prevent, 
flagging.  Houses  with  the  roof-lights  facing  east  and  west  will  not 
require  shading,  or  only  in  the  afternoon.  Little  or  no  fire  teat  will  be 
required  by  day,  shutting  the  valves  a''out  8  A.M.,  and  opening  them, 
again  about  4  P.M.  or  later,  keeping  a  good  moisture  by  damping  the 
floors. 
In  Pits  and  F-ames. — Sow  seeds  to  secure  plants  for  placing  in  pits  and- 
fratnes,  a  fair  amount  of  bottom  heat  being  necessary,  which  is  insured, 
by  using  the  less  decompo-el  material  from  ex,hausted  hotbeds,  with, 
about  a  fourth  of  fresh  material ;  ventilate  moderately  if  the  weather  is 
cold,  and  close  as  early  in  the  afternoon  as  safe,  funning  up  to  90°  or 
more,  and  employ  night  coverings.  Attend  to  the  linings  with  a  view  ta 
maintain  a  good  bottom  heat,  but  avoid  rank  steam. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Houses  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The- 
varicties  Alexander,  Watt  rloo,  and  Early  Louise  Pi  aches,  with  Cardinal  and 
Advance  Nectarines,  are  now  ripening,  and  roust  not  be  syringed  ; 
but  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Dr.  Hogg,  Dymond  or  Grosse  iNIignonne, 
St  rling  Castle,  Eoyal  George,  and  Crimson  Galande  Perches,  with  Early 
Eiver.s,  Lord  Napier,  Humboldt,  and  Stanwick  Elruge  Nectarines  aie 
only  about  completed  stoning,  and  must  not  be  subjected  to  a  higher 
temperature  than  60°  or  65°  by  artificial  means,  commencing  to  ventilate 
at  65°,  and  not  allowing  75°  to  be  exceeded  without  full  ventilation.  If 
the  fruits  are  too  thick,  remove  the  smallest,  apportioning  the  crop  to  the 
vigour  of  the  trees.  Draw  the  leaves  aside,  or  even  them,  so  as  to 
expose  the  fruit  to  light,  raising  such  as  require  it  on  thin  laths  placed 
across  the  trellis  wires  with  their  apexes  to  the  sun.  Maintain  a  good, 
moisture  in  the  house,  but  never  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  Water  the  inside 
border  copiously',  and  mulch  the  surface  with  about  an  inch  thickness  of 
short,  rather  lumpy  manure.  If  the  fruit  is  required  ripe  as  soon  as 
possible,  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  70°,  to  75“  by  day,  with 
80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  but  it  is  better  for  the  trees  to  continue 
60°  to  65°  as  the  night  temperature,  65°  artificially  by  day  in  dull 
weather,  70°  to  75°  with  sun  heat,  closing  at  the  latter. 
Houses  Started  in  February. — The  fruit  being  in  the  early  stages  of 
stoning,  should  be  reduced  to  two  on  strong  shoots  and  one  on  the 
weaker,  not  leaving  too  many,  for  there  is  danger  of  their  not  stoning  in 
that  case,  while  they  will  be  small  if  they  should  stone.  Eetain  in  all 
cases  the  fruit  best  situated  for  receiving  air  and  light.  Thin  the  shoot*, 
where  crowded,  pinching  laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  secure  the  growths  to 
the  trellis  as  they  advance.  Syringe  the  trees  twice  a  day  in  bright  weather, 
but  only  once  in  dull,  and  not  then  if  the  foliage  does  not  become  dry  before 
nightfall,  or  it  will  be  found  dripping  with  moisture  in  the  morning.. 
The  temperature  by  artificial  means  may  be  kept  at  55“  to  60°  at  night, 
and  60°  to  65°  by  day,  ventilating  from  65°,  and  fully  between  70°  and  75°. 
Supply  water  to  the  roots  as  required,  affording  weakly  trees,  and  those 
carrying  heavy  crops,  top-dressings  of  fertilisers  occasionally — say'  every? 
fortnight  or  three  weeks— washing  them  in  moderately,  or  afford  liquid 
manure  alternated  with  the  waterings. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — Thin  the  fruit  now  that  it  is  swelling  freely, 
and  choice  can  be  made  of  the  most  promising  for  the  crop.  Eeserve- 
those  on  the  upper  side  or  front  of  the  trellis  ;  two  or  three  on  strong 
shoots  will  be  ample  to  leave,  and  proportionately  fewer  on  weakly 
growths.  Eemove  all  superfluous  shoots  gradually,  retaining  those  only 
for  attracting  the  sap  to  the  fruit,  which  stop  at  two  or  three  joints,  and 
those  from  the  base  of  the  present  bearing  wood  for  furnishing  fruit 
another  season,  with  such  extensions  as  are  necessary'.  Train  the 
growths  as  they  advance,  securing  them  loosely  to  the  trellis.  Afford 
liquid  manure  to  such  as  require  more  vigour,  tut  avoid  stimulating 
vigorous  trees  too  much,  as  that  will  encourage  wood  at  the  expense  of 
the  fruit  stoning.  Keep  red  spider  under  by  syringing,  and  if  aphides  or 
other  pests  appear  promptly  apply  an  insecticide. 
