416 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  18,  1899, 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
The  Tubeeohs-rooted  Begonia. 
The  tuberous  Begonia  is  amongst  the  most  useful  plants  that  are 
grown  either  for  pot  culture  or  bedding  during  the  summer  months  ;  they 
are  plants  that  can  be  easily  grown,  although  careful  attention  is  required 
in  the  young  stage.  Propagation  may  be  effected  either  by  division  of 
the  old  tubers  or  from  seeds.  In  the  latter  case  the  seeds  should  be  sown 
early  in  March  in  clean,  well  drained  shallow  pans,  using  a  compost  of 
equal  parts  of  fine  loam,  leaf  mould,  peat,  and  sand,  making  it  fairly  firm 
and  giving  a  thorough  watering  before  sowing  ;  when  drained  sow  the 
seeds  thinly  over  the  surface,  and  lightly  sprinkle  a  little  silver  sand  over 
them  ;  cover  the  pan  with  a  clean  piece  of  glass  and  place  it  in  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  7.5°  by  day. 
As  soon  as  the  seedlings  appear  above  the  surface,  the  glas.s  must  be 
removed  from  the  seed  pan,  but  they  will  require  a  light  shading  during 
bright  days.  When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  they  should 
be  placed  in  boxes  about  an  inch  apart,  using  a  similar  compost  to  that 
for  the  seeds.  Apply  water  and  afford  the  same  temperature,  shading 
when  the  weather  is  bright.  When  the  plantlets  have  made  a  good  start, 
and  the  roots  have  hold  of  the  soil,  remove  them  to  a  cooler  house, 
keeping  them  near  the  glass,  and  when  they  are  almost  touching  one 
another  in  the  boxes  carefullv  take  them  out  with  as  much  root  attached 
as  possible,  and  place  in  small  60-pots  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  of  loam 
and  leaf  mould,  with  a  small  amount  of  sand  and  broken  charcoal.  When 
potted  apply  water,  and  afford  a  temperature  of  about  60°  at  night,  also 
shade  from  bright  sunshine. 
The  plants  at  this  stage  will  grow  rapidly,  and  when  they  have  a  fair 
amount  of  roots  round  the  sides  of  the  pots  again  remove  them  to  a 
cooler  place,  such  as  a  frame  kept  at  about  50°  at  night.  A  little  later 
the  best  of  the  plants  may  be  again  repotted’  into  small  48’8.  with  a 
compost  of  three  parts  of  loam,  and  two  parts  of  leaf  mould,  and  a  little 
sand  and  broken  charcoal.  The  potting  should  be  done  fairly  firm, 
covering  the  tubers  about  half,  and  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  tie  the 
tallest  plants  to  a  neat  stake,  as  they  are  liable  to  break  when  moved 
about;  give  the  plants  a  good  watering,  but  after  only  apply  it  when 
needed.  During  very  hot  weather  when  the  plants  are  in  bloom  it  will 
be  necessary  to  lightly'  shade  them  to  induce  the  flowers  to  last  for  a 
longer  period. 
A  very  suitable  time  for  starting  old  tubers  is  about  the  middle  of 
February.  Lay  them  in  boxes  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  and  afford  a 
temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  65“  to  70°  by  day.  When  they  have 
made  a  start,  they  should  be  carefully  taken  out  and  placed  into  well 
drained  pots,  the  compost  to  consist  of  three  parts  of  loam,  two  parts  of 
leaf  mould,  with  a  little  sand  and  broken  charcoal,  after  which  afford  them 
the  same  temperature  as  before.  When  some  good  roots  have  been  formed 
remove  to  a  cooler  house  to  encourage  strong,  sturdy  growth.  Before  the 
plants  fill  the  pots  with  roots  repot,  a  little  of  Thomson’s  Vine  manure 
mixed  with  the  soil  for  this  potting  being  beneficial.  The  watering 
should  always  be  carefully  done,  only  applying  it  when  needed,  and  as 
the  plants  gain  vigour,  a  little  liquid  manure  may  be  given  occasionally. 
For  outdoor  planting  the  beds  should  be  deeply  dug  and  have 
abundance  of  leaf  mould  added  to  them.  The  planting  must  be  done 
when  all  fear  of  frost  is  gone,  and  in  very  hot  weather  if  the  beds  are 
covered  with  some  light  material  the  flowers  will  last  for  a  longer  period. 
After  the  plants  are  cut  down  with  the  frost  the  tubers  should  be  care¬ 
fully  lifted  and  placed  in  boxes  in  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  to  become 
thoroughly  ripened,  keeping  them  in  a  cool  place. — P.  E. 
Welton  House  Gardens. 
The  above  gardens  are  in  Yorkshire,  a  few  miles  from  Brough,  and 
they  form  a  splendid  addition  to  the  country  residence  of  Harrison 
Broadley,  Esq.  Mr.  C.  Lawton  is  the  well-known  gardener,  and  he  has  a 
reputation  for  the  production  of  specimen  plants  that  many  might  envy, 
and  of  these  I  propose  to  say  a  few  words. 
After  a  cordial  reception  we  make  our  way  to  a  span-roofed  house  of 
two  divisions.  In  the  first  are  some  Orchids,  all  of  which  look  the  picture 
of  health,  and  in  the  second  are  miscellaneous  plants,  chiefly  for  table 
decoration.  In  the  stove,  which  has  a  central  and  side  stages,  are  excel¬ 
lent  specimens  of  Crotons  of  several  varieties.  I  was  much  impressed  by 
the  size  and  colour  of  these  plants.  Xotwithstanding  the  unfavourable 
weather  we  have  experienced  of  late,  the  foliage  was  exceptionally  large 
and  healthy,  and  the  colours  well  developed.  It  may  be  added  that  they 
were  free  from  insect  pests,  which  reflects  credit  on  all  concerned  in  their 
management.  On  the  side  stages  were  Crotons,  grown  on  the  single  stem 
system. 
The  Palm  house  contains  several  Kentias,  which  with  the  other  occu¬ 
pants  of  the  house  were  of  exceptionally  good  quality.  After  passing  a 
general  flowering  house  in  which  we  noticed  several  varieties  of  Cycads 
we^  reached  what  I  considered  the  glory  of  Welton  House — namely,  the 
Ericas.  Here  are  to  be  found  some  handsome  specimens  of  Cavendishiana 
and  other  species.  Mr.  Lawton  considers  firm  potting  and  careful 
watering  essential. 
In  a  north  house  were  Carnations  of  the  Malmaison  type,  and  consider¬ 
ing  the  disadvantage  of  their  position,  the  plants  were  looking  wonderfully 
well.  Another  house  contained  some  healthy  Eucharises,  and  I  must 
not  omit  to  mention  the  Ouvirandra  fenestralis  (the  Lattice  Plant  of 
Madagascar)  as  one  of  the  most  unique  plants  under  cultivation.  The 
leaves  are  simply  a  vegetable  network,  the  threads  of  which  are  so 
open  as  to  give  the  leaf  the  appearance  of  a  piece  of  wire  netting.  The 
plant  at  Welton  is  growing  in  a  bed  of  loam  submerged  in  water,  which 
also  covers  the  whole  of  the  foliage,  the  temperature  of  the  house  being 
about  70°.  Fresh  rain  ivater  is  added  every  morning  with  a  rosed  can,  and 
the  water  is  poured  in  at  a  distance  of  2  feet  above  the  plant,  so  as  to 
carry  with  it  the  atmospheric  elements  which  arp essential. 
We  observed  heavy  crops  of  Cucumbers,  while  Melons  were  swell¬ 
ing  excellently.  Peaches  and  Vines  were  full  of  promise,  and  will 
eventually  supply  abundance  of  fruits.  Strawberries  were  fine,  the- 
variety  being  Royal  Sovereign,  of  which  several  plants  were  bearing  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  berries. 
Adjoining  the  mansion  is  a  spacious  conservatory  with  specimens  of 
Camellias,  Tree  Ferns,  Dracaenas,  and  Araucarias,  and  having  the  roof 
effectively  covered  with  creepers  and  Roses,  A  word  of  thanks  must 
be  accorded  to  Mr,  Lawton  for  the  cultural  hints  he  so  readily  imparted,, 
and  which  will  be  both  interesting  and  beneficial  to  my  companions  and 
myself. — J.  F.  D.,  Yorhs. 
[Our  correspondent  in  his  venture  in  describing  Welton  House 
Gardens  bas  not  been  able  to  do  them  justice,  and  his  manuscript  has 
had  to  undergo  a  considerable  amount  of  revision.  Practical  lessons  or 
useful  suggestions  should  be  embodied  in  descriptive  matter,  and  this 
cannot  be  well  done  within  the  prescribed  limits  of  the  “Y.  G.  D.”  of 
about  500  words.] 
yOKK.FoilTHEWEEK.. 
TO 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
vines. — Early  Forced  Houses. — Where  the  Grapes  are  ripe  afford  firo 
heat  only  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  60°.  Admit  a  little 
air  constantly,  with  free  ventilation  w'hen  the  weather  is  favourable.  Do 
not  allow  the  border  to  become  dry,  but  keep  it  moist,  and  mulch  with 
rather  lumpy  sweet  litter,  both  to  prevent  excess  of  moisture  and  to  keep 
the  soil  from  cracking.  A  little  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  is  not 
injurious  to  the  Grapes,  and  is  highly  beneficial  to  the  foliage,  which 
must  be  kept  clean  and  healthy.  If  thrips  appear  recourse  may  be  had  to 
fumigation,  repeating  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.  For  red  spider  there 
does  not  appear  any  safer  means  of  destruction  than  heating  and 
sulphuring  the  hot-water  pipe.-',  but  it  must  not  be  overdone  or  the 
vapour-fumes  injuriously  affect  the  tender-skinned  Grapes,  especially  the 
white  varieties. 
Successioiial  Vineries. — As  little  fire  heatas  is  consistent  with  thesteadv 
progress  of  tt  e  crops  should  be  employed, for  with  sun  heat  and  abundance 
of  atmospheric  moisture  more  real  benefit  is  gained  in  a  week  than  in  a 
month  with  the  aid  of  fires.  The  Vines  being  in  full  growth  the  tem¬ 
perature  may  be  allowei  to  rise  to  90°  or  95°,  closing  the  house  at  85°,. 
employing  fire  heat  only  lo  maintain  a  day  temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  and 
to  prevent  it  falling  below  65°  at  night,  yet  5°  less  will  do  no  harm  but 
good  when  the  weather  is  cold.  These  remarks  apply  only  to  Vines  in 
lull  growth  and  swelling  their  crops,  as  those  that  have  the  Grapes 
approaching  ripening  should  have  a  rather  free  circulation  of  air,  those 
advanced  in  ripening  being  kept  cooler  and  drier.  Air  should  be  admitted 
very  early  in  the  morning,  as  the  sun  acting  powerfully  on  the  condensed 
moisture  formed  on  the  foliage  during  the  night  usually  causes  scorching^ 
unless  air  has  been  previously  admitted. 
Watering  the  borders  must  be  attended  to  as  required — not  having 
stated  times,  but  being  guided  by  the  soil's  condition.  More  failures  are 
the  result  of  under  than  over-w  atering  Vines,  the  borders  being  properly 
constructed  and  the  drainage  complete.  Water  may  be  required  twice  a 
week  in  the  case  of  Vines  restricted  to  narrow  and  shallow  borders,  and 
once  a  week  for  those  that  have  a  gcod  run  of  border  from  the  time  of 
thinning  the  berries  until  the  Grapes  are  changing  colour,  but  retentive- 
borders  may  only  require  water  at  fortnightly  or  three  weeks  intervals. 
This  difference  must  be  considered,  for  there  is  no  question  about  a 
sodden  soil  being  injurious  to  Grapes,  and  of  a  prolific  source  of  shanking. 
Liquid  nourishment  is  more  frequently  required  by  loose  and  light 
soils  than  by  compact  and  retenri'c  ones.  All  will  need  top-dressings 
of  some  approved  fertiliser — 1,  W’hen  starting  the  Vines  ;  2,  when  the 
Grapes  attain  to  thinning  size  ;  and  3,  when  the  berries  commence 
ripening,  supplying  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  at  each  dressing  and  washing 
in  lightly.  If  more  stimulation,  or  rather  nourishment,  be  needed, 
supply  the  manure  oftener  ;  this  is  better  than  increasing  the  quantity 
each  time  and  at  long  intervals. 
Late  Houses. — In  most  places  the  work  now  on  hand  is  considerable  in 
thinning  the  berries,  and  it  will  continue  for  some  weeks,  as  in  many 
instances  the  Vines  are  only  in  flower.  In  the  latter  case  maintain  a 
minimum  temperature  of  60°  to  70°,  5°  more  for  Muscats,  shaking  the 
Vines  twice  a  day  to  distribute  the  pollen,  which  wifl  be  sufficient  for 
all  but  the  shy  setters,  and  these  ought  to  be  carefully  fertilised,  going 
over  the  bunches  judiciously  with  a  camel-hair  brush  and  supplying 
pollen  where  it  is  deficient  from  those  that  afford  it  freely.  All  the 
large-berried  and  free-setting  varieties,  such  as  Gros  Colman  and  Gros 
Guillaume,  should  be  thinned  while  they  are  in  flower,  and  with  those 
that  are  likely  to  have  closely  set  berries  it  is  advisable  to  thin  before  the 
flowers  expand,  as  a  practised  ej'e  can  tell  which  flower  will  set  by  its 
vigour,  and  the  removal  of  the  weaker  strengthens  those  left  wonder¬ 
fully.  While  the  Vines  are  in  flower,  moderate  moisture,  with  a  rather 
