May  2o,  1899. 
JOURKAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
437 
towards  the  evenings  of  hot  days,  and  if  red  spider  should  have  obtained  a 
foothold,  an  insect :ci  ie  will  be  necessar}’.  Much,  however,  may  bo  done 
to  prevent  attacks  of  this  pest  if  the  soil  about  the  roots  is  kept  moist  by 
eopious  waterings,  and  laying  on  a  mulch  of  half-decayed  manure. 
Healthy  trees  bearing  good  crops  will  need  water  weekly,  and  as  the 
fruit  swells  sewage  water  may  be  applied.  This  assists  the  crop  greatly 
and  prevents  its  drawing  too  much  upon  the  tree’s  resources.  Red  spider 
find  other  insect  pests  are  loss  troublesome  when  adequate  moisture  and 
food  are  available  for  the  roots.  The  fruit  should  bo  thinned  to  the 
required  number  by  degrees,  commencing  when  they  have  attained  to  the 
size  of  small  nuts.  Many  of  the  small  and  ill-placed  can  be  removed 
sooner. 
Pears  and  Plums. — Lateral  growths  which  require  removal  are  now 
beyond  the  stage  when  they  can  be  rubbed  out.  hence  whore  thickly 
placed  they  must  be  cut  out  entirely.  Room  is  thus  afforded  for  the 
remaining  growths  to  extend  and  produce  good  lower  leaves,  which  will 
feed  the  buds  at  their  base.  Saramcr  pruning  can  then  be  carried  cut  as 
soon  as  the  lower  leaves  have  attained  full  size.  Pinching  the  growths 
when  young  and  soft  invariably  results  in  a  thicket  of  growths  which  ruin 
one  another,  as  time  is  seldom  available  for  this  form  of  management. 
It  therefore  should  not  be  adopted  unless  subsequent  growths  can  also  be 
pinched  as  well  as  crowded  grow  ths  boldly  thinned  out. 
Red  and  White  Currants  — Sucker  growths  at  the  base  of  bushes  must 
be  cleared  out,  as  if  allowed  they  crowd  the  budies.  A  commencement 
may  be  made  in  nipping  back  the  young  growths  to  three  pairs  of  loaves. 
This  will  let  light  and  air  to  the  fruit. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers — Plants  that  have  bm  n  in  bearing  since  the  beginninj  of 
the  year  in  a  house  may  be  removed,  and  the  house  being  cleansed,  it  can  be 
utilised  for  a  late  crop  cf  Melons,  or  another  crop  of  Cucumbers.  Where, 
however,  the  Cucumber  plants  are  fairly  healthy,  and  the  supply  of  fruit 
insufficient  from  pits  and  frames,  they  may  be  kept  fruiting  some  time 
longer  by  removing  the  surface  soil  and  replacing  with  some  lumpy  loain, 
after  A’ards  surfacing  with  sweetened  manure,  giving  a  good  soaking  of 
water  or  liquid  manure.  Thin  out  the  old  growths  and  encourage  young 
in  the  place.  Shade  from  powerful  sun,  syringe  the  plants  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon,’ and  damp  well  before  nightfdl.  Fire  heat  need  only  bo 
employed  to  maintain  a  toraperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  anl  70°  to  75° 
in  the  daytim^’.  Admit  a  little  air  at  75°,  increase  it  with  the  advancing 
sun  heat,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°  or  90°,  and  close  early  in 
the  afternoon  so  as  to  run  up  to  00°  to  100°. 
Plants  in  pits  and  ffames  should  be  ventilated  from  7.30  to  8  A.M.,  and 
in  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  a  slight  shade  from  fierce  sun  w  ill  bo  Lciie- 
ficiul  ;  keep  through  the  day  at  85°  to  90°,  close  at  85°,  and  so  early  as  to 
raise  the  temperature  5°  to  10°  or  more  from  sun  heat.  Keep  the  plants 
watered  as  required,  never  allotving  them  to  lack  a  supply'  without  meeting 
it  promptly  and  before  they  are  distressed,  and  not  giving  needless  supplies 
so  as  to  make  the  soil  sodden.  Avoid  crowding  the  foliage,  thinning  well, 
maintaining  a  succession  of  young  bearing  wood,  removing  bad  leaves, 
and  stopping  the  shoots  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  Over¬ 
cropping  and  allowing  the  fruit  to  remain  on  the  plants  after  they'  become 
fit  to  cut  greatly  weakens  them,  and  must  be  guarded  against  by  timely 
thinning  and  cutting  the  fruit,  avhich  keep  some  time  in  a  cool  place,  with 
the  neck  end  inserted  in  a  saucer  of  w'ater.  Straight  fruits  are  not  only' 
handsomer  and  more  easily  packed  than  the  crooked,  but  they  possess 
greater  value,  therefore  place  the  young  fruits  in  glass  tubes,  or  pieces  of 
deal  nailed  together  so  as  to  form  open  ended  troughs  about  3  inches 
wide. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Ea  ly  Houses. — When  trees  of  Alexander, 
Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with  Cardinal  and  Advance 
Nectarines,  are  cleared  of  their  fruit,  the  wood  that  has  borne  it  should 
be  cut  to  the  successional  growths  from  their  base  for  neat  year’s 
fruiting,  except  those  needed  for  extension.  If  the  trees  are  too  full 
of  wood  thin  well,  so  as  to  admit  light  and  air  to  the  shoots,  and  thereby' 
insure  their  thorough  ripening.  Early  forced  trees  are  liable  to  have  the 
buds  over-developed,  and  to  cast  them,  therefore  some  growers  leave  the 
old  wood  until  a  later  period  to  retard  the  buds,  while  others  shade  the 
house  from  bright  sun  with  a  similar  object.  Covering  the  roof-lights 
with  a  thin  wash  of  whiting  and  skim  milk  answers  perfectly,  using  it  as 
soon  as  the  blossom  buds  are  commencing  to  form,  or  from  the  fruit  being 
gathered  until  the  latter  part  of  August,  This  is  a  good  plan  where  trees 
suffer  from  over-maturity  of  the  buds,  and,  with  proper  regard  to  watering 
and  keeping  the  foliage  clean,  is  effectual.  Syringing  should  bo  practised 
in  the  morning  and  evening  to  free  and  keep  the  trees  clear  from  red 
spider.  The  borders  must  be  kept  in  a  thoroughly  moist  condition,  as  it 
is  important  that  the  foliage  be  healthy  as  long  as  ptssible.  Admit 
abundance  of  air  in  the  daytime  when  the  fruit  is  ripening,  and  a  little  at 
night  to  prevent  the  deposition  ol  moisture  on  the  fruits,  which  is  likely 
to  induce  decay  at  the  apex,  if  not  encourage  the  attack  of  “  spot,”  which 
is  rather  prevalent  this  year  on  Pigs  and  Grapes,  and  in  less  degree  on 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. 
Succession  //owses.— Only  moderate  artificial  heat  w  ill  now  be  necessary' 
in  order  to  admit  a  free  circulation  of  air.  Remove  any  leaves  that  shade 
the  fruit  too  much,  raising  them  on  laths  placed  across  the  trellis,  so  as  to 
bring  them  with  their  apexes  to  the  light.  Attend  regularly  to  tying-in 
the  shoots,  stopping  the  laterals  at  the  first  joint  as  soon  ns  made.  Any 
growths  that  cannot  be  allowed  to  extend  without  crowding  or  enirroaching 
on  others  stop  at  about  14  inches,  exception  being  made  of  extensions. 
Shoots  retained  level  with  or  past  the  fruit  to  attract  the  sap  to  it  should 
be  stopped  to  one  or  two  joints  at  each  break.  Syringing  must  bo 
pracysed  morning  and  afterncon  to  keep  red  spider  under,  and  the  inside 
border  attended  to  regularly  with  water.  Admit  air  early  in  the  day, 
and  in  the  case  of  houses  glazed  with  the  best  quality  glass  in  large  panes 
a  double  thickness  of  herring  or  single  pilchard  netting  draw'n  over  tho 
roof-lights  is  beneficial  in  very  bright  and  hot  period-*,  preventing  tho 
leaves  browning.  A  little  whitewash  from  a  fine  rose  syringe  on  the 
glass  also  diffuses  tho  light,  and  acts  favourably,  and  has  the  advantage 
that  tho  first  rain  washes  it  off,  and  gives  tho  much-needed  light  in  dull 
periods. 
Lafe  Houses. — Let  there  be  no  delay  in  thinning  the  fruit,  leaving  very' 
few  more  after  the  fruits  attain  tho  size  of  Walnuts  than  will  bo  required 
for  tho  crop,  up  to  which  stage  the  thinning  sliould  be  gradual,  and  avoid 
overburdening  the  trees.  It  is  better  to  retain  too  few  rather  than  too 
many  fruits,  fine  examples  being  always  appreciated,  while  the  in¬ 
differently  swelled  and  quality-lacking  are  a  source  of  complaint.  There 
is  no  gieater  mistake  than  retaining  more  shoots  than  there  is  room  for. 
If  the  wood  is  not  properly  formed,  and  is  not  solidified  as  made,  imperfect 
buds  result.  If  aphides  appear  fumigate  on  two  or  three  consecutive 
evenings,  having  tho  foliage  dry,  and  being  careful  not  to  give  an  over¬ 
dose  ;  or  apply  one  of  the  advertised  insecticides,  carefully  following 
the  instructions,  Should  mildew  attack  the  fruit  or  foliage  dust  with 
flowers  of  sulphur,  taking  care  to  reach  every  pirt. 
Pines. — Providin']  for  a  Succession  il  Supply  of  Fruit, — Pine  plants  yield, 
as  a  rule,  the  finest  fruits  when  they'  show  these  ten  to  twelve  months 
from  the  time  tlio  sucktrs  are  potted,  but  some  allowance  must  be  made 
for  the  size  of  them  when  started,  also  for  autumn  potted  suckers,  which 
have  to  make  a  part  of  their  growth  under  adverse  influences.  Plants 
that  were  potted  last  September  will  now  be  showing  fruit ;  if  not,  means 
should  be  adopted  to  effect  if.  This  can  be  done  by  subjecting  those  of 
that  age  not  now  showing  signs  of  fruiting — a  thick  sturdy  base,  and  the 
leaves  commencing  to  open  in  tho  centre  of  the  plant — to  comparative 
rest  for  a  period  of  four  to  six  weeks,  lowering  the  heat  at  tho  roots  to 
75°,  admitting  air  fully  at  75°  to  80°.  and  letting  the  temperature  fall  to 
75°  before  closing  the  house  for  tho  day.  The  plants  must  not  be  allowed 
to  become  excossivel’/  dry  at  tho  routs,  but  when  a  supply  is  needed, 
and  only  then,  afford  it  liberally.  The  smaller  suckers  of  tho  plants, 
placed  this  spring  in  the  fruiting  pots,  should  be  kept  growing  until  they 
have  filled  their  pots  widi  roots,  when,  if  it  bo  necessary,  the  plants  can 
be  subjected  to  the  .same  course  of  treatment  as  advised  for  the  larger 
plants,  and  these  will  afford  a  successional  supply  of  fruit. 
Pottiny  S'!C  cssional  Pines. — "When  the  strongest  suckers  potted  last 
March  filled  the  pots  with  roots,  they  would  be  transferred  to  their 
largest  pots.  If  they  arc  not  yet  potted  no  further  delay  should  bo 
tolerated,  as  to  retain  llu-m  longer  in  small  pots  is  detrimental  to  their 
after  growth.  Recently'  patted  plants  should  have  a  regular  bottom  heat 
of  85°  t)  90°,  and  I  e  lhi>rouglily  watered  after  potting  if  tho  soil  be  dry. 
and  no  more  should  be  given  until  the  soil  b:comcs  again  in  that 
oond  tion,  as  it  is  necessary  to  exorcise  more  care  than  usual  at  this  stage, 
the  state  of  the  individual  plants  being  ascertained  before  its  application. 
Younj  Pines. — Growing  stock  will  be  miking  rapid  progress,  and 
should  be  regularly  attended  to  in  every  particular.  Ventilate  early  in 
the  day  at  75°  to  80°,  to  render  the  foliage  dry  before  it  is  acted  power¬ 
fully  upon  by  the  sun.  Discontinue  shading  successional  plants,  but  if 
very  near  the  glass  and  the  panes  largo  a  slight  shade  will  be  advisable  in 
the  hottest  part  of  the  day  ;  also  for  fruiting  plants  with  the  crowns  in 
close  proximity  to  the  roof. 
w 
£ 
'iMK 
iHE  BEE-KE)EPER. 
O'  .7-? 
Commencing  Bee-keeping 
It  makes  little  difference  at  what  season  bees  .are  obtained  if  the 
bee-keeper  understands  their  miuagement.  We  have  sent  bees  long 
distances  at  midwinter,  and  also  in  the  height  of  summer,  without 
any  difficulty.  It  is,  however,  important  that  beginners  who  purpose 
makino-  a  stiit  at  bee-keeping  should  commece  at  the  most  favourable 
seasonrand  for  various  reasons  we  recommend  spring  in  preference  to 
autumn. 
If  bees  are  obtained  in  the  autumn  there  is  always  the  risk  of 
losing  them  during  the  winter,  either  from  insufficient  food,  cold,  or 
dampness  in  the  hives,  or  queenlessnes.^.  There  is  one  advantage  in 
procuring  a  strong  stock  of  bees  in  the  autumn.  If  they  winter  well, 
and  increase  is  preferred  tho  first  year  to  a  surplus  of  honey,  they 
may  he  readily  increased  to  half  a  dozen  strong  colonies  by  the  follow- 
iQ<^  autumn  if  tli'i  original  stock  is  allowed  to  swarm  and  the  stock 
and  swarm  are  after ivards  divided  so  as  to  obtain  the  requisite  number 
of  colonies. 
The  plan  we  adopted  when  an  increase  of  stocks  was  of  more 
importance  than  a  large  surplus  of  honey,  was  to  encourage  the  queen 
to  commence  laying  as  soon  .as  the  weather  was  favourable  in  the 
spring.  This  was  done  on  the  lines  advocated  in  previous  notes — 
namely,  feeding  those  that  were  short  ot  stores  with  waim  syrup  and 
uncapping  the  cells  of  tho  others.  The  brood  chamber  was  also 
enlarged,  In  one  instance  to  twenty  frames.  This  hive,  we  may  say, 
was  crowded  with  bees  and  tho  whole  of  the  frames  filled  with  brood 
by  the  last  week  in  May, 
