452 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  1,  1899. 
the  greenhouse.  No  garden,  however  small,  should  hi  without  them. 
— H.  W.  G. 
[We  trust  the  practical  inTormat-on  given  by  our  corre.spondent 
will  be  of  service  to  “D.,  Z>ea?”  (who  recently  sought  tor  cultural 
hints)  and  other  readers.  For  the  excellent  ilhis'rauon  (lig.  100)  of 
R.  Elhottiana  we  are  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  Messrs.  J.  Veitch  and 
Sons.  Ltd,  Chelsea,  who  showed  such  a  splendid  group  of  those  plants 
at  the  Drill  Hall  on  May  16th,  and  at  the  Temple  Show.] 
BLOSSOM  BUD  FORMATION. 
As  a  pendant  to  the  instructive  discussion  on  “pinching  fruit 
trees,”  we  propounded,  on  page  393,  May  llih,  the  following 
questions  as  bearing  on  the  subject,  and  invited  replies  from  our 
correspondents.  Of  those  received  we  publish  an  instalment,  and 
have  others  not  less  interesting  to  follow. 
1,  What  is  a  blossom  bud  ? 
2,  How  is  it  formed? 
2,  What  helps  and  what  hinders  its  production  ? 
4,  If,  and  in  what  way,  a  blossom  bud  can  be  changed  into  a 
growth  bud  ? 
Great  pressure  of  work  has  prevented  me  from  replying  earlier  to 
the  above  questions  (page  393),  which  should  suppy  most  of  us  with 
food  lor  reflection. 
My  answer  to  question  1  is.  An  arrested  growth  bud,  which 
contains  in  the  embryo  the  essential  organs  of  reproduction. 
2,  The  marvellous  proctss  by  which  wood  buds  are  converted  into 
blossom  buds  is  beyond  the  power  of  plant  physiologists  to  show  us  ; 
they  can  only  demonstrate  that  under  certain  conditions  such  changes 
do  take  place. 
3,  This  ought  to  elicit  the  most  useful  information,  as  the  observa¬ 
tion  of  all  practical  cultivators  should  lead  them  to  lorm  decided 
opinion  on  the  po'.nts  raised.  Assuming  that  my  deflnition  of  “a 
blossom  bud’’  is  correct,  it  becomes  apparent  that  growth  has  to  be 
checked — arrested — to  secure  blossom  buds.  Linder  some  circum¬ 
stances  this  is  in  favourable  seasons  brought  about  by  natural  con¬ 
ditions,  as  the  moist,  mild  weather  of  spring  is  favourable  to  growth. 
Then  follow  the  sunshine  anil  great  heat  of  summer,  which  checks 
growth,  and  solidifies  it,  a  process  which  we  term  wood  ripening,  and 
which  we  know  causes  blossom  bud  formation.  When,  however,  we 
have  Wet  comparatively  sunless  summers,  growth  continues  for  a  longer 
time,  not  being  checked  by  sunshine  and  a  dry  atmosphere,  tlje 
wood  then  fails  to  ripen  properly,  and  the  efi'ect  is  seen  in  a  scanty 
.show  of  blcssom  the  following  season,  or  at  least  a  dearth  of  vigorous 
fully  developed  ones.  One  of  the  gTeatest  aids  to  blossom  bud  formation 
is  then  clearly  to  keep  the  shoots  thinly  disposed,  so  that  whatever 
the  w'eather  may  be  every  leal  and  shoot  may  be  fully  exposed,  and 
"thus  become  haidened — checked — in  due  proportion  to  the  amount  of 
sunshine  wre  get.  By  pinching  a  shoot  in  summer  we  check  it  for  a 
time,  but  also  cause  it  to  start  into  growth  again,  and  during  the 
time  active  growth  is  taking  place  the  process  of  sap  elaboration  and 
blossom  bud  lormation  is  to  a  certain  extent  delayed,  for  the  natural 
conditions  under  which  fruitful  wood  is  produced  are  completed — 
.growth  first,  then  wood  ripening.  In  the  case  of  trees  trained  on  the 
restrictive  system  punching  is  no  doubt  necessary  to  prevent  the  shoots 
becoming  crowded  to  the  exclusion  of  sun  and  air,  but  this  only 
■shows  that  Nature  will  do  the  whole  thing  for  us  if  we  allow  trees 
plenty  of  room,  and  thin  the  branches  thoroughly.  Other  aids  to 
blossom  bud  formation  are  root-pruning  and  shortening  but  little  at 
the  winter  pruning,  as  hard  pruning  results  in  a  thicket  of  strong 
shoots  unless  root-pruning  is  practised  in  conjunction  with  it.  Blossom 
bud  formation  is  also  aided  hy  budding  on  dwarfing  stocks,  and  in  the 
case  of  trees  worked  on  the  Crab,  planting  very  firmly  in  soil  not  over¬ 
rich. 
4,  A  fully  developed  blossom  bud  cannot  be  changed  into  a  growth 
bud,  but  during  the  transitory  state  absence  of  sunshine,  combined 
with  a  vigorous  flow  of  sap,  may  prevent  the  ibrmaiion  of  a  perfect 
flower  bud.  Something  else  may  also  l.appen  which  many  might 
take  to  be  the  changing  of  a  flower  bud  to  a  wood  bud.  Examine  an 
Apple  branch  in  early  spring ;  at  the  base  of  a  blossom  bud  may  often 
be  seen  a  small  wood  bud,  which  seems  to  form  part  of  the  blossom 
bud ;  this  bud  may  drop^,  or  not  burst,  and  leave  the  tiny  wood  bud, 
but  no  change  has  taken  pilace  in  it,  it  was  a  separate  bud  from  the 
first. — H.  Dunkin. 
1,  This  question  is  not  so  readily  answered  as  may  appear. 
Difierent  plants  have  different  ways  of  producing  blossom  buds.  A 
blossom  bud  of  an  Apple  or  Pear  tree  is  spiecialised  growth,  containing 
the  essential  organs  ot  reproduction,  as  w’^ell  as  a  non-essential  envelope 
which  serves  as  a  source  of  attraction  to  insects  to  visit  the  flower  for 
the  purpose  of  fertilisation.  A  blossom  bud  would  be  really  useless  if 
it  did  not  contain  the  organs  of  reproduction,  because  the  functions 
that  the}’’  perform  are  absolutely  necessary  in  order  that  fruit  and  seed 
may  be  produced  for  the  perpetuation  of  its  kind.  In  short,  then,  a 
blossom  bud  is  a  bud  specially  developed  by  a  plant  or  tree  for  the 
main  object  of  producing  seed.  The  cultivator’s  object,  unlike  that  of 
the  plant  or  tree  is  to  produce  in  a  highly  developed  form  the  fleshy, 
succulent,  and  protective  covering  in  which  the  seed  is  enclosed. 
2,  A  blossom  bud  is  formed  by  the  elaboration,  in  a  highly 
perfected  condition,  of  the  materials  taken  in  by  the  plants  in  the 
shape  of  soluble  food  absorbed  by  the  roots  from  (he  soil  and  gaseous 
food  taken  in  by  the  leaves  from  the  air.  These  substances  undergo 
chemical  change  in  the  leaves,  whence  they  are  transferred  to  various 
parts  of  the  plant  for  the  enlargement  of  the  whole.  The  reserve 
material  is  then  stored  up  in  buds  for  future  growth,  and  under  the 
most  favourable  conditions,  a  certain  amount  having  become  more 
highly  perfected,  is  built  up  only  into  blossom  buds. 
3,  The  production  of  a  blossom  bud  is  helped  chiefly  by  the  full 
exposure  ot  shoots  to  sun  and  air,  so  that  the  work  of  the  leaves  maj’’ 
be  carried  out  under  the  best  conditions.  It  is  also  important  that  a 
due  supply  of  nourishment  may  be  obtained  by  the  roots.  Under  less 
favourable  conditions  bh  ssom  buds  form,  owing  to  a  limited  supply  of 
nourishment  ;  but  if  thev  develop  into  perfect  blossom  buds,  it  is 
done  at  the  expense  of  growth  buds.  A  wi-akly  blossom  bud  will  not 
fully  perfect  the  essential  organs.  A  blo.-som  bud  is  hindered  in 
forming  w'hen  the  roots  are  more  than  usually  active  in  rich  soil, 
which  provides  a  stimulus  to  continued  and  vigorous  growth  ;  also 
when  the  roots  of  fruit  trees  descend  deeply  into  the  subsoil,  stimu¬ 
lating  strong  and  sappy  grow'th. 
4,  A  fully  formed  blossom  bud  cannot  be  changed  into  a  growth 
bud,  because  a  blossom  bud  contains  only  the  essential  and  non- 
essential  organs  of  the  flower.  If  it  fail  to  fulfil  its  tdnetions  it  simply 
dies,  as  it  contams  no  provision  within  itself  to  form  new  wood 
growth. — E.  D.  S. 
NOTES  ON  FORCED  FIGS. 
In  order  to  have  earl}'  Figs  the  trees  must  bo  of  varieties  that  afford 
good  results  in  their  first  crops,  such  as  St.  John’s,  Arg^lique,  Black 
Provence,  Early  Violet,  and  Mhite  Ischia,  all  with  small  iruit  ;  Black 
Ischia,  Brown  Ischia,  Doth  with  medium  sized  fruit ;  Pingo  de  Mel  and 
Brown  Turkey,  with  largo  rru<e  j-nd  best  for  general  purposes.  The  trees 
must  not  he  in  glected  or  disappointment  is  inevitable.  They  should  have 
all  the  light  possible  and  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  practicable  without 
touching,  so  as  to  secure  sturdy  well  ripened  growths,  and  pinching  must 
not  be  practised  to  a  late  period,  otherwise  the  shoots  will  not  mature 
sufficiently  to  carry  a  first  crop  of  fruit.  The  foliage  should  be  kept 
clean,  and  liquiil  manure  supplied  so  as  to  secure  stout  but  not  gross 
growth. 
When  the  growth  is  complete  ti  e  trees  may  be  stood  outdoors  to 
induce  rest,  but  the  wood  shouhl  be  well  inatured  previously,  and  to  be  of 
use  for  early  forcing  it  must  be  matured  early.  The  trees  should  be  given 
a  sunny  corner,  but  not  dried  off,  properly  syringing  and  watering,  and 
if  the  wood  be  soft  the  trees  should  be  kept  under  glass  until  it  is 
thoroughly  ripened. 
The  second  crop  now  swelling  on  the  current  year’s  wood  should  be 
thinned  before  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  Walnuts,  and  in  thinning  reserve 
the  largest  fruits  at  the  base  of  the  shoots.  The  trees  require  generous 
treatment ;  those  in  pots  must  be  mulched  viith  rich  material  and  supplied 
with  liquid  nourishment  twice  a  day  in  hot  weather,  and  generally  once. 
Trees  in  borders  also  require  mulching  and  water  or  liquid  manure  once  or 
twice  a  week,  aceoriling  to  the  extent  of  the  rooting  area  ;  others  may  require 
it  less  frequently  on  account  of  their  vigour,  always  being  guided  by 
circumstances  and  actual  requirements.  Syringing  will  be  needed  twice  a 
day  to  keep  red  spider  in  check,  and,  if  necessary,  apply  an  insecticide, 
removing  scale  with  a  brush. 
The  fruit  now  ripening  in  succession  houses  must  be  kept  from  damp 
throughout  the  whole  of  the  process,  affording  a  free  circulation  of  warm, 
dry  air,  and  a  night  temperature  of  b0°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  with 
sun  heat,  80°  to  90°.  Figs  ripened  in  a  close  moist  atmosphere  and  in 
shade  are  insipid,  but  those  perfected  in  full  exposure  to  light  and  a 
favourable  atmosphere  are  wholesome  and  nutritious.  If  a  circu'ation  of 
air  be  afforded  constantly  there  will  be  little  danger  of  “spot,”  but  if  it 
should  appear  promptly  remove  the  affected  fruit  and  bum  it,  also,  as  a 
safeguard,  use  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot- water  pipes.  This  is  also  hateful 
to  red  spider,  the  fumes  given  off  having  a  deterrent  effect.  In  bad  cases 
it  is  advisable  to  gather  the  fruit  closely  and  give  a  good  syringing,  which 
is  still  the  best  means  of  keeping  down  red  spider,  and  the  water  will  not 
injure  the  fruit,  provided  it  is  clear  and  soft  and  the  operation  done  early 
on  a  fine  day.  Although  a  somewhat  dry  atmosphere  is  desirable  when 
the  fruit  is  ripening,  it  must  not  be  arid,  or  the  toliage  will  sufier,  and 
moderate  moisture  will  not  damage  the  fruit,  provided  a  circulation  of  air 
18  maintained  and  the  ripening  Figs  are  not  wetted. 
Trees  swelling  their  crops  will  require  syringing  twice  a  day',  copious 
supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  at  the  roots,  and  a  genial  atmosphere. 
Afford  the  fruit  the  benefit  of  all  the  light  practicable,  tying  in  and 
regulating  the  shoots  by  thinning  and  stopping. — Geowee. 
