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JOUJUJAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AHD  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  8,  1899. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to“  The  Editor,”  a,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandswortb,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  12,  Mitre  Court  chambers, 
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any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to 
unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  departmental  writers 
are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they  may  receive  on 
Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post.  If  information 
be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any  particular 
authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain 
it  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accompanied  by 
the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will  neither  be 
published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  nom  de  plumes  are  given 
for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Packing  Peaches  and  Nectarines  (W.  Rahy). — The  issue  containing 
the  artif'le  by  “Market  Grower”  on  this  subject  is  out  of  print.  We 
therefore  reproduce  it  on  page  475,  as  it  contains  information  that  will  be 
of  service  to  many  readers  besides  yourself. 
Peach  Leaves  Spotted  The  leaves  are  spotted  as  if  with  the 
sun  acting  on  them  whilst  wet,  as  the  scorching  is  different  from  that 
caused  by  fumigation.  It  has  been  favoured  by  insufficient  ventilation,  the 
ventilators  not  being  opened  early  enough  in  the  morning,  or  the  openings 
not  enlarged  sufficiently  early  to  allow  of  the  pent-up  moisture  escaping, 
and  that  on  the  foliage  heating  correspondingly  with  the  surrounding  air. 
More  air  and  earlier  is  the  only  means  of  avoiding  the  evil,  but  it  also 
arises  from  the  foliage  being  thin  in  texture,  partly  due  to  an  unsatis¬ 
factory  condition  at  the  roots  and  in  part  to  keeping  too  close  and  too 
moist  in  the  early  stages  of  growth.  There  is  no  disease  of  an  organic 
nature. 
Tomato  Affected  with  Scald  {A.  H.  E.'). — The  fruit  is  affected  by  the 
scald  or  black  stripe  fungus,  Macrosporium  lycopersici,  which  cannot  be 
remedied,  as  the  disease  is  wholly  internal,  though  it  may  be  prevented  by  a 
free  admission  of  air,  constantly  allowing  a  circulation,  and  maintaining  a 
rather  warm  and  dry  atmosphere.  This  procedure  has  proved  the  most 
satisfactory,  together  with  using  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot-water  pipes 
which  gives  off  faint  fumes,  yet  sufficient  to  arrest  the  germination  of 
the  fungus  spores.  Some,  however,  consider  that  it  is  the  comparatively 
dry  and  freely  ventilated  atmosphere  that  gives  the  immunity  from  the 
“  scald,”  the  moisture  on  the  fruit  giving  the  fungus  the  advantage,  if  not 
actually  causing  the  “  scald,”  and  the  parasite  takes  possession.  How¬ 
ever  that  may  be,  the  fungal  mycelium  is  active  in  the  flesh,  hence  we 
advise  affected  fruits  to  be  removed  and  burnt,  and  the  house  to  be  kept 
drier,  warmer,  and  more  freely  ventilated,  especially  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day. 
Apple  Trees  Unsatisfactory  (Loughfall). — The  portion  of  small  branch 
and  the  twigs  are  in  a  very  bad  state,  being  overgrown  with  moss,  lichen, 
and  saprophytic  fungi.  There  is  no  wonder  the  blossoms  are  small  and 
the  fruit  has  not  set.  There  appears  to  have  been  abundance  of  bloom, 
showing  the  trees  not  to  be  in  a  bad  state  constitutionally,  but  only 
requiring  a  chance.  We  should  wash  them  thoroughly  with  lime  water, 
made  by  slaking  a  peck  of  lime  and  pouring  in  30  gallons  of  water, 
stirring  well  up,  and  leaving  three  or  four  days,  then  using  the  clear  water. 
It  may  be  syringed  over  the  trees,  and  will  do  something  to  retard  the 
overgrowths.  In  the  autumn,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen,  dust  the 
trees  all  over  with  freshly  burned  slaked  lime,  choosing  a  time  when  they 
are  damp  with  mist  or  after  drizzling  rain,  but  with  a  prospect  of  fair 
weather.  Make  the  trees  quite  white.  It  will  not  hurt  anything  but  the 
moss,  lichen,  and  fungi,  and  that  going  on  the  ground  will  do  much 
good  to  the  soil,  which  would  be  the  better  for  a  dressing  with 
farmyard  manure  at  the  rate  of  20  tons  per  statute  acre,  leaving  on  the 
surface  if  the  orchard  is  in  grass,  or  pointing  in  lightly  if  bare  soil.  In 
addition  to  that,  apply  a  mixture  of  bone  superphosphate  and  kainit  in 
equal  parts,  mi.xed,  using  7  lbs.  per  rod,  10  cwt.  per  acre,  and  leave  on  the 
surface  if  in  grass,  or  point  in  very  lightly  if  bare  soil.  Then  in  the  spring, 
as  soon  as  buds  begin  to  swell,  apply  lb.  per  rod  of  nitrate  of  soda, 
which  the  rain  will  wash  in.  This  will  make  a  great  difference  in  the 
trees,  and  draining  being  attended  to,  if  needed,  should  give  good  results 
in  the  future. 
Incarvillea  Delavayi  (/.  C.  S.). — The  price  ranges  from  Is.  6d.  to 
38.  (id.  per  plant.  It  may  be  procured  from  Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware,  Ltd., 
Tottenham  ;  Barr  &  Son,  Covent  Garden  ;  Dicksons,  Ltd.,  Chester  ;  and 
others.  You  may  be  sure  of  getting  satisfactory  stock  from  eiiher  of  the 
above. 
New  Growths  of  Easpherries  (0.  F.).  —  The  rootstocks  must  be 
allowed  to  send  up  new  growths  or  seekers  at  this  season,  but  they  should 
be  thinned  out,  leaving  four  to  si.x  of  the  strongest  young  canes  to  <ach 
stool  or  rootstock,  and  the  best  .'ituated  near  thereto,  reitoving  the  other 
by  pulling  up,  it  possible,  without  jirejudice  to  the  parts  retained,  other¬ 
wise  they  should  be  cut  off.  This  will  eive  vou  good  bearing  cares  for 
another  year,  if  those  which  bear  fruit  this  year  are  cut  away  as  soon  as 
the  crop  is  gathered. 
Pinching  Chrysanthemums  (Ewes).— As  the  plants  are  very  forward 
it  would  be  advisable  to  top  them  now,  and  thus  rely  on  the  breaks  for 
the  buds  for  taking,  or  the  generally  better  plan  would,  perhaus,  be  to 
await  the  first  break,  then  take  out  its  point  and  rely'  on  the  thrf(» 
breaks  (topmost)  for  the  buds,  removing  the  others.  This  wouhl  be 
likely  to  meet  your  requirements,  though  as  you  practise  in  a  northerly^ 
district  the  pinching  would  give  second  break  buds  somewhat  earlier  and 
be  the  better  practice.  This  is  matter  for  judgment. 
Begonia  Leaves  Disfigured  (T.  IF.).— Yes,  the  leaves  ore  irfested 
with  *■  rust”  parasite,  a  small  creature  somewhat  resembling  a  thrips,  but 
far  more  injurious  in  its  effects.  It  may  be  eradicated  by  frequent 
vaporisation  with  nicotine  or  fumigation  with  tobacco  paper  ;  also  by 
spraying  the  plants  with  nicotine  essence,  one  part  in  100  parts  rain 
water,  or  tobacco  water.  The  spray,  readily  clone  with  an  atomiser, 
should  be  directed  against  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  The  parasite  has 
also  been  overcome  by  dusting  the  plants,  held  upside  down,  with  tobacco 
powder,  using  very  lightly  and  repeating  occasionally'. 
Duke  of  Buccleuch  Vine  Leaves  (ff.  7'.  //.). — Beyond  slight  evidence 
of  scorching  near  the  edges  of  the  smaller  loaves,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the 
lodgement  of  moisture  between  the  lobes  during  the  early  stages  of  growth, 
there  is  nothing  but  pleasure  to  be  derived  from  an  inspection  of  the 
specimens.  The  large  leaf  is,  from  its  substance  and  colour,  one  of  the 
finest  we  have  seen.  The  few  white  specks  are  movable  particles  w  hich 
have  no  doubt  fallen  from  the  woodwork  of  thereof.  With  a  continua¬ 
tion  of  good  culture,  by  which  alone  such  foliage  could  be  produceii.  you 
may',  by  appropriate  pruning,  expect  good  crops  and  fine  specimens  of  the 
noble  Duke.  The  small  shrinkages  of  the  margins  of  the  small  leaves  are 
not  uncommon,  and  may  be  regarded  w’ith  complacency  under  the 
generally  encouraging  circumstances. 
Stephanotis  Unhealthy  (//.  C.  T.'). — The  most  probable  cause  is 
defective  root  action,  which  may  have  been  induced  by  the  soil  being  too 
regularly  moist  or  wet,  through  the  pot  occupying  a  position  underneath 
a  stage,  on  which  there  are  Ferns  and  various  foliage  plants,  the  drainage- 
water  from  these  rendering  the  soil  sodden  and  sour.  It  is  possible  also 
that  the  means  adopted  to  free  the  plants  from  a  “little  scale  and  mealy 
bug”  may  have  had  a  prejudicial  etlecf.  Such  failures,  however,  are  not 
infrequent  after  “  a  mass  of  bloom,”  the  plant  requiring  a  time  to 
recuperate.  Me  should  attend  without  delay  to  the  condition  of  the 
plant  at  the  roots,  and  if  the  soil  is  at  all  defective  repot,  using  a  compost 
of  turfy  loam,  with  a  little  leaf  mould,  a  free  admixture  of  sand,  and  a 
few  pieces  of  charcoal,  providing  good  drainage.  Water  should  be  <>ivei> 
very  carefully  or  sparingly  for  a  time,  never  overwatering,  but  encouraging 
growth  by  lightly  syringing  twice  a  day.  It  would  also  be  advisable  to 
cut  the  plant  back,  removing  the  W'eakly  shoots,  and  encourage  vigorous- 
growth  by  shortening  the  long  and  straggling  branches. 
Liquid  Manure  for  Camellias  in  Tubs  and  Pots  (Idem), — The  liquid 
is  best  given  when  the  plants  are  swelling  their  buds  for  flowering  and 
when  making  new  growth  ;  the  best  we  have  used  is  that  of  sheep 
droppings,  1  peck  to  30  gallons  of  water,  and  cow  manure  1  peck 
to  20  gallons  of  water.  The  droppings  or  maj.ure  should  be  scalded,  forming 
into  a  puddle,  then  adding  ihe  remainder  of  the  water  and  stirring 
well,  or  the  material  may  be  placed  in  a  bag.  It  is  desirable  to  uso 
the  clear  w  ater  only,  which  w  ill  have  the  colour  of  ale,  and  may  be  used 
as  in  ordinary  watering.  Clear  soot  water  is  also  good,  about  half  a 
peck  sufficing  for  30  gallons  of  water.  It  is  not  advisable  to  give  liquid 
manure  after  the  buds  are  set,  or  stimulate  too  much,  otherwise  the 
plants  grow  more  than  is  favourable  for  flowering.  The  roots  must,  of 
couise,  be  quite  healthy. 
Patchy  Lily  of  the  Valley  Bed  (/.  C.  (S'.).— Instead  of  digging  up  the 
bare  places,  putting  in  some  manure  and  fresh  plants,  then  covering- 
over  with  leaves,  it  would  be  better  to  dig  up  the  whole  bed  in  the  autumn, 
separate  the  plants,  with  as  much  root  as  possible  attached  to  each  crown,, 
into  sizes,  and  replant  after  well  ma-nuring  the  ground  and  stirring  well, 
but  firming  the  soil  again  before  planting.  It  would  also  be  advisable  to 
form  the  beds  on  fresh  ground,  preferaldy  with  an  east  or  west  aspect.  In 
jflanting  a  shallow  trench  should  be  cut  out,  the  crowns  placed  upright  ia 
it,  about  2  inches  apart,  so  that  their  points  are  just  below  the  surface, 
and  the  soil  filled  in.  Other  trenches  may  then  be  prepared  and  planted 
in  a  similar  way,  leaving  a  space  of  about  9  inches  between  them.  By 
leaving  out  every  sixth  row  beds  would  be  formed,  the  alleys  being  handy 
from  which  to  attend  to  the  plants  for  weeding  and  w-atering.  If  the 
crowns  are  separated  into  three  sizes  and  planted  in  separate  beds,  the 
small  will  produce  nothing  but  leaves  the  following  year.  From  the 
second  size  some  flowers  of  medium  strength  may  be  obtained.  The 
large  ones  will  for  the  most  part  flower,  and  thus  you  will  secure  more 
satisfactory  results  another  season,  and  in  the  following  years  all  will  give 
good  returns  under  liberal  treatment. 
