June  22.  1E99.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  521 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Melons. — Plants  with  the  fruit  ripening  must  have  a  plentiful  supply 
of  air,  and  water  should  be  withheld  from  the  fruit.  If  the  plants  are 
strong,  and  there  is  a  disposition  to  crack,  in  addition  to  withholding 
water,  cut  the  growths  carrying  the  Melons  half  through  a  few  inches 
below  the  fruit.  A  dry  atmosphere  is  essential,  and  a  temperature  of  70° 
to  75°  artificially,  falling  about  5°  at  night.  If  the  sun  be  powerful,  place 
a  slight  shade  of  some  kind  directly  over  the  fruit,  so  as  to  insure  their 
ripening  evenly  and  gradually.  Water  only  to  prevent  flagging.  A  slight 
shade  after  a  dull  period  is  better  than  heavy  waterings  and  a  close  vitiated 
atmosphere. 
Fruit  Swelling. — Add  more  soil  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks.  It  should  be 
warm,  moderately  heavy,  rather  moist,  and  pressed  firmly.  Water  will 
be  required  about  twice  a  week,  regulating  this  according  to  the  plants. 
Remove  all  fruit  but  three  or  four  on  a  plant,  also  blossoms,  and  afford 
the  needful  supports.  Stop  or  remove  laterals,  not  great  reductions,  but 
little  and  often,  not  allowing  them  to  interfere  with  the  principal  growths. 
Syringe  tw’ice  daily.  On  bright  mornings  commence  ventilating  about 
seven  o’clock,  or  at  75°,  and  increase  it  with  the  advancing  sun,  keeping 
through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°  with  bright  sun.  Close  at  80°  to  85°, 
increasing  to  90°  or  more. 
Plants  Setting  their  Fruit. — The  plants  should  have  the  foliage  thin 
in  disposal,  so  tbat  air  and  light  may  have  free  access.  The  growths 
will  then  be  stout  and  short-jointed,  and  the  foliage  thick  in  texture. 
The  blossoms  also  will  bo  proportionately  strong.  Ventilate  a  little 
constantly,  and  if  dull  have  a  little  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  cause  a  circula¬ 
tion  of  air,  and  when  the  heat  falls  below  65°  at  night,  or  70°  to  75°  in 
the  daytime.  The  soil  must  bo  suffieiently  moist  to  prevent  the  leaves 
flagging,  and  only  moderate  moisture  will  be  required  in  the  atmosphere, 
damping  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  but  keep  the  water  from  the 
plants.  F-  rtilise  the  blossoms  about  noon  on  fine  days,  and  when  several 
are  expanded  on  a  plant,  stopping  at  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit  to  insure 
uniformity  of  swelling. 
Young  Plants.  — TrsAn  with  one  shoot  for  trellises,  and  rub  off  the 
laterals  up  to  the  first  wire,  and  then  every  alternate  lateral  on  opposite 
sides  afterwards,  stopping  the  leading  shoots  when  about  two-thirds  up 
the  trellis.  Flowers  ought  to  appear  on  the  laterals,  if  they  do  not  show  at 
the  second  joint  stop  at  that.  Plants  for  training  over  the  bed  should  be 
stopped  at  the  second  leaf.  Select  four  of  the  resulting  shoots,  training 
two  to  the  back  and  two  to  the  front  of  the  frame  or  pit.  Remove  all 
others  carefully,  but  if  only  two  shoots  result  stop  them  at  the  second 
or  third  leaf,  and  make  a  selection  of  the  best  for  trainintr.  Keep  the 
stem  clear  for  a  space  of  about  6  inches  from  (he  collar.  Remove  every 
alternate  lateral  on  the  shoots,  stopping  these  12  to  15  inches  from  the 
«ide8  of  the  frame.  Let  there  be  no  deficiency  of  moisture  at  the  roots, 
and  add  fresh  soil  to  the  hillocks  as  the  roots  protrude.  Syringe  at 
closing  time,  but  avoid  wotting  the  stems,  as  it  may  lead  to  canker,  which 
should  be  kept  under  by  rubbing  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts  until 
dry.  Provide  the  necessary  ventilation  for  insuring  sturdy  growth. 
Glose  early,  and  keep  the  growths  well  regulated  not  less  frequently  than 
once  a  week.  Shade  only  to  prevent  flagging,  it  will  only  be  necessary 
for  an  hour  or  two  at  midday  under  powerful  sun. 
Sowing  for  Late  Fruit. — A  last  sowing  should  be  made  at  once  for 
planting  in  manure-heated  pits  and  frames.  Plants  from  this  sowing 
will  afford  fruit  at  the  latter  part  of  September,  and  be  useful  if  properly 
attended  to.  Those  with  light  well-heated  structures  may  continue 
to  make  sowings  as  required  until  the  end  of  July.  The  plants  from  the 
fast  named  sowing  will  continue  the  supply  up  to  the  beginning  of 
November,  after  which  the  fruit  is  generally  of  very  moderate  quality. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earlg  House. — The  fruit  will  shortly  be  all 
■gathered,  therefore  admit  all  the  air  possible  day  and  night.  If  the  roof 
lights  of  the  earliest  forced  house  are  movable,  take  them  off  after  the 
trees  have  had  full  ventilation  for  a  fortnight,  and  keep  the  trees  free 
from  insects  by  forcible  syringings.  Let  the  borders  be  duly  watered, 
affording  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees,  which  helps  them  to  plump  the 
buds,  and  mulch  with  short  manure.  Cut  away  the  wood  which  has 
feorne  fruit  to  the  shoot  at  the  base  intended  to  bear  fruit  next  season, 
unless  such  shoot  is  required  for  extension.  If  there  be  any  superfluity 
of  shoots  remove  them  now  ;  they  only  keep  air  and  light  from  the 
principal  foliage,  and  hinder  cleansing  operations.  Keep  laterals  and  any 
gross  shoots  closely  stopped. 
Houses  with  Fruit  Eipening. — The  trees  must  not  be  syringed,  but 
vnoderate  moisture  should  be  maintained  until  the  fruit  is  ripe  ;  even 
when  ripe  an  arid  atmosphere  should  be  avoided,  as  it  is  highly  prejudicial 
to  the  foliage.  Water  must  also  be  given  liberally  at  the  roots.  Admit 
air  abundantly.  In  gathering  Peaches  great  care  is  necessary,  as  the 
least  pressure  makes  a  mark  and  spoils  their  appearance.  A  piece  of 
wadding  should  be  held  in  the  hand,  and  the  fruit  removed  by  gentle 
pressure,  then  laid  gently  in  a  basket  or  tray.  A  cool  and  airy  fruit  room 
IS  the  best  place  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines  after  they  are  gathered. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Crops. — When  the  stoning  is  over  the  trees  will 
endure  strong  heat  without  fear  of  the  fruit  falling.  Afford  tepid  liquid 
manure  to  the  roots  of  trees  carrying  full  crops,  and  not  otherwise  too 
vigorous.  Be  careful  in  giving  liquid  manure  to  very  vigorous  trees,  as 
it  tends  to  over-luxuriance,  and  may  interfere  with  setting  and  stoning 
in  the  succeeding  year.  Still,  liberal  treatment  is  necessary,  such  as  light 
surface  mulchings  and  copious  waterings  every  w^eek  or  ten  days  in  well 
drained  borders.  Syringe  twice  a  day  to  keep  down  red  spider,  ventilate 
early,  keep  the  temperature  through  the  day  at  70°  to  75°  80°  to  85°  with 
aun,  and  close  the  house  suSiciently  early  to  increase  to  90°.  This,  with 
abundance  of  moisture  in  the  house,  will  insure  large  fruit,  and  if  venti¬ 
lation  is  given  before  nightfall  and  increased  early  in  the  morning,  all 
will  be  well ;  but  if  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere  be  maintained  with  high 
temperature  the  fruit,  though  largo,  w  ill  lack  flavour.  Keep  the  fruit  with 
the  apex  to  the  light,  laths  across  the  trellis  will  admit  of  this  being 
done,  and  clear  away  the  loaves  from  the  fruit,  but  do  not  remove  them  if 
it  can  be  avoided.  When  approaching  ripening  cease  syringing,  admit  air 
freely,  and  60“  to  65°  at  night  will  be  sufficiently  high  temperature  arti¬ 
ficially  in  the  daytime,  unless  it  is  wished  to  accelerate  the  ripening, 
when  it  should  range  from  70°  to  75°  with  a  rise  irom  sun  heat. 
Late  Houses. — Train  the  growths  thinly,  reserving  a  shoot  at  the  base 
of  the  current  year’s  bearing  wood,  and  stop  those  on  a  level  with  or 
above  the  fruit  at  two  or  three  leaves,  and  succeeding  growths  at  a  joint 
or  two.  Side  shoots  on  extensions  not  required  to  form  bearing  wood,  or 
for  furnishing  the  trees,  stop  at  an  inch  or  two  of  growth  to  form  spurs. 
Thin  the  fruit  to  a  few  more  than  will  be  required  for  the  crop,  retaining 
the  largest  and  best  placed.  There  should  not  be  more  than  one  fruit  to 
each  square  foot  of  trellis  covered  by  the  trees,  but  a  few  more  may  be  left  to 
meet  casualties  in  stoning.  Syringe  twice  daily  except  on  dull  days. 
During  the  prevalence  of  dull  weather  an  occasional  syringing  will  be  all 
that  is  required,  as  it  does  not  answer  to  keep  moisture  hanging  on  the 
foliage.  Water  inside  borders  as  necessary,  and  afford  liquid  manure  to 
weakly  trees.  Mulch  the  borders  lightly  with  short  manure,  and  keep  it 
moistened  as  it  becomes  dry. 
m  BEE-KEEPER. 
9 
Shading  and  Ventilation. 
It  is  of  importance  that  bees  should  have  attention  at  the  propei 
time,  and  the  shading  and  ventilation  of  hives  must  not  be  neglected. 
The  present  spell  of  bright  weather  is  so  beneficial  both  to  strong  and 
weak  stocks  that  close  attention  should  be  given  to  this  subject.  We 
prefer  ventilating  hives  from  underneath  the  brood  nest,  and  where 
perforated  zinc  floors  are  in  uso  these  are  often  found  to  afford  ample 
ventilation  during  the  hottest  days  of  summer.  But  from  experiments 
made  with  them  we  are  inclined  to  think  bees  winter  better  with 
solid  wood  floors,  as  zinc  is  very  cold,  and  bees  have  a  great  aversion 
to  walking  over  a  cold  surface  in  winter.  However,  many  bee¬ 
keepers  highly  approve  of  zinc  floors  for  their  bees,  as  they  allow  a 
circulation  of  air  at  all  limes. 
If  the  hives  have  loose  floor  boards  ventilation  is  a  very  simple 
matter,  as  the  body  of  the  hive  may  be  wedged  up  as  much  as  is 
required.  When  this  is  done  the  full  width  of  the  hive  the  bees  have 
ready  access,  and  it  will  not  be  necessary  for  so  many  of  the  bees  to 
be  fanning  at  the  entrance,  as  is  always  the  case  during  the  prevalence 
of  hot  weather  if  the  entrance  is  not  large  enough.  This  is  done  by  the 
bees  to  lower  the  temperature  of  the  hive. 
We  do  not  recommend  giving  ventilation  at  the  top  of  the  hive,  as 
this  reduces  the  warmth  where  it  is  most  required.  Shading  should 
then  be  resorted  to,  and  this  will  often  have  the  desired  effect.  It  is 
also  an  advantage  to  shade  stocks  when  the  body  of  the  hive  is 
wedged  up  its  full  width,  as  during  a  spell  of  very  bright  weather 
bees  will  often  swarm.  This  might  have  been  jirevented  hai  shading 
and  ventilation  been  resorted  to.  in  time,  before  the  bees  made 
preparations  for  swarming.  Those  who  have  not  previously  tried  this 
plan  will  be  surprised  at  their  immunity  from  swarming. 
Cojib  Foundation. 
The  most  important  aid  to  success  in  bee-keeping  is  comb 
foundation.  This  fact  is  now  pretty  well  known  to  the  majority  of 
bee-keepers.  Tne  genuine  article  is  made  from  pure  wax,  which  is 
rolled  into  sheets  varying  in  thickness.  Those  intended  for  supers 
usually  run  about  sixteen  sheets  to  the  pound,  whereas  those  used  for 
the  broed  chamber  will  be  of  double  thickness. 
It  may  be  used  in  various  ways,  a  narrow  strip  fastened  to  the  top 
bar  of  the  frame  being  sufficient  to  act  as  a  guide  ;  from  this  the  bees 
will  build  straight  combs.  It  is,  hojvever,  a  great  saving  of  labour  to 
the  bees  if  full  shee’s  of  foundation  are  used,  as  much  honey  is  con¬ 
sumed  by  the  bees  in  making  sufficient  wax  to  fill  an  ordinary  sized 
hive  with  comb.  We  prefer  strips  of  guide,  comb  for  sections,  as  the 
midrib  of  the  comb  will  be  found  to  be  much  thinner  when  made  by 
the  bees  than  when  foundation  is  used. 
If  the  top  bar  of  the  frame  is  split  the  edge  of  the  foundation 
may  be  placed  in  the  opening,  a  wire  nail  will  hold  it  in  position,  and 
if  the  hive  is  placed  level  nothing  more  will  be  necessary.  A 
beginner  should  always  use  thick  sheets  of  foundation,  averaging 
about  eight  sheets  to  the  pound.  After  some  exirerience  with  these 
thin  super  foundation  may  be  used  in  the  brood  chamber.  In  our  own 
apiary  we  never  have  anything  else.  It  is  necessary,  however,  to  use 
them  between  fully  drawn  out  combs,  otherwise  they  may  break 
do\v'n,-“AN  Exglisu  Bee-keeper. 
