41 
Jiinuai-y  8,  lOos." _ JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
not  molest  hei’  after  liberation,  but  feed,  lick,  or  clean  her, 
they  may  be  safely  left.  Should  the  queen  be  attacked, 
disperse  the  bees  by  smoking  them  vigorously,  and  confine 
her  another  twelve  hours,  then  try  again. — E.  E.,  Sandbach. 
- - 
RESTORING  THE  LEADER  OF  A  CONIFER. 
A  correspondent,  “  N.  F.  W.,”  writes:  “A  few  years  ago  I 
planted  a  Silver  Fir,  Picea  peotinata.  A  week  since  I  found  that 
loin  of  the  leader  had  been  cleanly  cut  off.  The  shoot  is  2in 
round  where  cut,  and  about  Sin  below  that  are  two  side  branches 
about  14in  long.  I  was  thinking  I  could  get  one  of  these  for  a 
leader;  and  again  I  thought.  Would  a  graft  grow?  If  you  think 
it  will,  tell  me  w’hat  form  of  graft  w’ould  be  best,  and  the  time 
for  the  operation.” 
[Our  reply  is  that  a  side  branch  will  not  make  a  good  leader. 
Purchase  another  Silver  Fir  wdth  a  good  leader,  and  cut  it  off 
where  it  is  about  the  same  size  as  the  one  you  mean  to  graft  on 
to.  Graft  in  April,  in  the  manner  represented  in  the  accompany- 
Fig-  1-  Fig.  3. 
ing  illustrations,  a  (fig.  1)  is  the  scion,  c  the  terminal  shoot  of 
the  tree  to  be  grafted,  a  (fig.  2)  is  the  scion  cut  at  its  lower  end 
in  the  form  of  a  wedge ;  h  (fig.  3)  is  an  enlarged  figurei  of  the 
terminal  shoot  c  (fig.  1),  in  which  a  cleft  is  made  between  the 
crown  buds  at  h.  The  scion,  a,  2,  is  inserted  in  the  cleft,  b,  3, 
and  when  bound  round  by  a  cotton  or  bast  ligature,  and  covered 
with  clay  or  grafting  w'ax,  the-  operation  is  complete.  The  whorl 
of  branches  situated  immediately  under  the  graft  between's  and  c, 
fig.  1,  should  be  shortened  to  half  their  length,  or  tied  down  in 
a  curve,  if  it  is  desirable  to  retain  them,  so  as  to  throw  more 
strength  into  the  graft.] 
- - 
Publications  Received. 
“  Le  Mois  Medico-Chirurgical,”  Decembre,  1902.  *  *  “The 
Tropical  Agriculturist,”  December,  1902.  The  titles  of  some 
of  the  articles  are:  Ceylon  Silkworms,  Different  Eucalypti, 
Humidity  of  the  Atmosphere,  Salt  as  Manure,  the  Eueaiypts 
and  their  Oils,  Tea  and  its  Enemies,  Agriculture  in  Ceylon, 
Fertilizing  Bananas,  and  Journey  to  a  Rubber  Plantation  on  the 
Isthmu.s  of  Columbia.  *  *  “  Journal  dos  Agricultores,”  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  November,  1902.  *  *  “  Garten  Flora,”  December, 
containing  coloured  plate  of  Dendrobium  Brymeriana.  *  * 
“Garten  Flora,”  Berlin,  January  1,  1903,  containing  coloured 
plate  of  Coleus  thyrsoideus.  *  *  « xhe  Canadian  Horticul¬ 
turist,”  December,  1902 — Special  features :  The  Secklo  Pear, 
Cheapest  and  Most  Effective  Spray,  Men  who  have  Succeeded, 
Loudon ;  Maritime  Fruit  Growing,  The  Cedars  of  Lake  Cochi- 
ching.  Fruit  at  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  and  The  Park  Ideal.  *  * 
“  The  Selection  of  Roses  for  a  Garden,”  by  the  Rev.  C.  E.  Jeans, 
M.A.,  F.S.A.,  vicar  of  Shorwell  and  rector  of  Mottiston,  I.W. 
1 
WOKK-FoiitheWEEK..  ] 
Fruit  Forcing. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  :  EARLIEST  HOUSE.— The 
recent  dull,  wet  weather,  combined  with  the  mildness,  has  not 
been  favourable  to  the  blossom  development,  as  thei  tendency  is 
more  in  favour  of  wood  growth.  The  chief  tiling  to  aim  at  is 
the  steady  advance  of  thCi  blossom  buds  to  flowering,  they  being 
developed  in  a  comparatively  genial  and  well-ventilated  atmo¬ 
sphere.  When  thus  opened  well  the  flowers  will  be  duly  furnished 
with  poHen,  and  the  pistillate  organs  stout.  Raise  the  tempera¬ 
ture  tO'  oOdeg,  if  it  have  been  lower  througli  the  night,  as  soon 
as  possible  after  daybreak,  and  maintain  it  at  that  figure  during 
the  day  by  artificial  means,  putting  on  a  little  air  so  as  to  induce 
a  circulation  without  causing  a  draught.  Maintain  a  genial 
atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  early  in  the  afternoon  on  fine  days,  but  in  dull,  wet  weather 
an  occasional  damping  will  suifice'. 
BY  VENTILATING  EARLY  with  a  suitable  temperature  tlie 
trees  are  kept  in  steady  progress,  the  blossoms  become  perfectly 
developed,  and  fertilisation  then  is  readily  effected.  The  pollen 
may  be  distributed  by  means  of  a  camel-hair  brush,  feather,  or 
rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  small  stick,  plume  of  Pampas  Grass, 
or  shaking  the  trellis.  The  night  temperature  must  now  be 
oOdeg  to  oSdeg  in  mild  weather,  55deg  by  day  from  fire  heat, 
advancing  to  65deg  from  sun  heat.  Increase  the  ventilation 
freely  above  oSdeg,  but'  not  so  as  to  lower  the  temperature,  and 
close  at  Godeg,  a  feAv  degrees  advance  from  sun  heat  being  bene¬ 
ficial.  Remember  that  a  well  aerated  atmosphere  is  essential 
for  the  vitality  of  the'  pollen,  and  cross  fertilisation  more  potent 
than  self-impregnation  in  many  cases  ;  besides,  when  pollen  is 
deficient  in  any  variety,  some  should  be  supplied  from  another 
affording  pollen  dust  plenteously. 
DISBUDDING  must  not  be  done  hurriedly,  but  ajiy  strong 
shoots  of  the  previous  year  having  a  tendency  to  push  growth  in 
advance  of  the  others  may  be  commenced  with,  first  removing 
the  growths  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots,  and  then  removing 
the  side  growths  to  the  number  required,  namely,  one  from  or 
as  near  the  base  as  possible  to  supplant  that  now^  bearing,  and 
another  or  more,  above  or  on  a  level  with  the  fruit,  and  which 
should  be  pinched  at  a  few  inches  of  growth,  or  if  thei  shoot  be 
an  eKtension  leave  growths  at  about  every  15in  or  not  more  than 
18in,  to  form  the  bearing  shoots  of  next  season,  continuing  those 
with  the  leader  intact.  Disbudding,  however,  should  be  com¬ 
menced  before  the  shoots  are  an  inch  long,  and  be  continued  at 
short  intervals  until  no  more  shoots  are  left  than  will  be  neces¬ 
sary  for  furnishing  the  trees  with  the  wood  of  the  ensuing 
season’s  bearing.  Afford  due,  but  not  excessive  supplies  of  water 
to  the  inside  borders,  and  protect  the  roots  outside  with  dry 
material.  After  the  fruits  are  set  an  occasional  syringing  will 
assist  the  trees  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the  blossoms,  yet  avoid 
heavy  syringings,  which  have  a  tendency  tO'  weaken  the  growths. 
SECOND  EARLY  HOUSE. — This  may  be  the  first  in  some, 
if  not  most,  establishments.  If  planted  with  the  very  early 
varieties,  Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  Car¬ 
dinal  and  Advance  Nectarines,  ripe  fruit  will  be  had  about  the 
middle  of  May,  the  house  being  closed  at  the  newr  yen,r.  If 
planted  with  such  varieties  as  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Stirling 
Castle,  Dymond,  Royal  George,  Noblesse,  Grosse  Mignonne, 
Bellegarde,  and  Goshawk  Peaches,  Lord  Napier,  Stanwick 
Elruge,  Rivers’  Orange,  Humboldt,  and  Dryden  Nectarines,  the 
fruit^will  ripen  from  the  early  part  of  June,  the  house  being  set 
to  work  at  once.  Employ  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  a  day  tem¬ 
perature  of  50deg,  raising  it  early  to  ensure  the  development  of 
the  blossom  with  light  and  due  airing,  increasing  the  ventilation 
at  Gfideg,  avoiding  cold  currents,  and  allowing  an  advance  of 
5deg  tO'  lOdeg  from  sun  heat  and  corresponding  ventilation.  A 
night  temperature  of  40deg  to  45deg  is  sufficient  until  the  blos¬ 
som  is  well  advanced  for  expansion,  when  it  should  be  gradually 
raised  to  oOdeg.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon  on  fine  days  until  they  show  the  anthers,  when  damping 
the  borders  and  paths  will  be  sufficient,  admitting  a  little  air 
constantly,  with  a  genial  warmth  in  the  pipes.  When  the  pollen 
becomes  ripe  artificial  fertilisation  may  be  resorted  to.  If  water 
is  wanted,  give  a  thorough  supply,  affording  liquid  manure  to 
weakly  trees,  but  warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  house. 
When  the  blossom  buds  are  superabundant,  remove  those  on  the 
under  side  or  at  the  back  of  the  trellis  by  drawing  the  hand  the 
reverse  way  of  the  growths.  Protect  the  outside  border  with 
litter  or  leaves,  but  not  to  a  depth  causing  the  heat  to  exceed 
GOdeg  to  Godeg. 
