JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  15,  1903. 
5i 
and  Flower  of  Spring  for  autumn  sowing.  As  most  seeds¬ 
men  have  special  selections,  and  gardeners  have  their 
favourites  as  standard  kinds,  no  useful  purpose  is  served  in 
giving  long  lists  of  Cabbages.  Good  Savoys  are  Green 
Curled,  Bijou,  or  Keliance  (which  are  one  and  the  same), 
New  Year,  Gilbert’s  Universal.  Golden  Globe,  and  Orms- 
kirk.  By  no  means  overlook  the  Coleworts,  nor  Christmas 
Drumhead,  which  are  most  useful  winter  Cabbages,  the 
Cordon  Pears. 
(Continued  from  page  36.) 
In  the  early  autumn  the  whole  of  the  shoots,  pinched  or 
not,  should  be  shortened  to  four  leaves  from  the  base. 
Some  shorten  to  two  or  three  leaves,  but  by  this  method  a 
Dovaston  Yews 
latter  yery  hardy  and  long  keeping.  As  a  change  to  the 
daily  kitchen  service  Chou  de  Burghley  and  Chou  de  Tron- 
chuda,  both  of  which  are  hardy  and  of  good  quality,  are  to 
be  recommended. 
Onions  and  Leeks 
for  exhibition  must  include  Ailsa  Craig,  Magnum  Bonum, 
Southampton  Champion,  The  Lord  Keeper,  Rousham  Park, 
or  others  of  this  type  ;  for  everyday  use,  Bi'own  Globe, 
Main  Crop,  James’  Long  Keeping,  MJiite  Spanish,  and  Bun- 
yard’s  Late  Keeper  are  reliable.  Leeks  are  not  so 
numerous,  but  Musselburg,  Dobbie’s  Champion,  Ajdon 
O’astle,  and  The  Lj’on  are  indispensable. 
Beetroots' 
should  include  one  good  round  of  Globe  variety  for  early 
summer  or  autumn  use.  The  .old  Egyptian  Turnip-rooted 
is  not  comparable  with  the  beautiful  outlines  and  higher 
quality  of  these  Globe  Beets.  Cheltenham  Green-top  is 
not  an  ornamental  leafed  sort,  but  is  nevertheless  one  that 
satisfies  in  the  kitchen.  Carter’s  Perfection,  Dell’s  Crim¬ 
son,  Nutting’s  Dwarf  Red,  Middleton  Park,  and  Chelsea 
Black  ai'e.all  good  standard  vaiaeties. 
Parsnips,  Carrots,  Celery,  Vegetable  MaiTows,  Parsley. 
Endive,  Cucumber,  and  Radishes  all  have  the  hall  mark  of 
quality,  and  a  reputation  of  remote  or  modern  standing  ; 
and  this  being  so,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  err  in  a  selec¬ 
tion  of  either. 
Broad  Be.vns 
Fortunately,  do  not  possess  a  legion  of  names,  though 
some  marked  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  few 
that  are  added.  While  some  prefer  the  old  Broad  Windsor 
type,  others  like  the  Longpods.  Except  for  its  hardiness, 
T  do  much  appreciate  the  old  Magazan.  The  pods  and  seed 
are  both  so  small.  The  greatest  progress  made  in  these 
Beans  is  found  in  the  colour  of  the  seed  and  their  increased 
numbers  contained  in  the  pod.  Carter’s  Green  Leviathan 
is  a  marked  advance,  and  the  Harlington  Green  Windsor 
is  a  stride  forward  in  the  right  direction.  Bunyard’s  Long- 
pod  is  a  fine  Bean,  so  also  is  the  Seville  Longpod,  Aqua- 
duLe,  and  Johnson's  Wonderful.  The  old  Early  Longpod 
is  still  a  good  one  for  first  crops. 
(To  be  eoutinuod.) 
on  steep  bank', 
cordon  is  obtained  like  a  stick,  which  is  neither  so  beautiful 
nor  so  productive  as  the  tree  obtained  by  leaving  four  leaves 
— a  tree  which  may  be  from  9in  to  1ft  in  diam'eter.  The^ 
weaker  shoots  being  kept  at  their  full  length  during  the 
summer  does  not,  of  course,  give  such  a  tidy  appearance  as 
the  pinching  of  the  .  whole  of  the  shoots,  but  it  helps  to 
keep  the  spurs  vigorous,  especially  near  the  base,  instead 
of  letting  an  undue  propoi'tion  of  the  strength  of  the  tree 
go  into  the  leader,  which,  by  the  way,  should  generally  be 
left  its  full  length  until  the  autumn,  when  it  should  be 
shortened  according  to  •  the  space  available  for  it,  but, 
according  to  my  opinion,  though  many  differ,  always  to  at 
least  two-thirds  of  its  length,  or  a  strong  continuation  leader 
will  not  be  secured  next  year,  and  the  whole  length  of  it 
will  not  be  clothed  wdth  spurs  in  the  future.  This  was,  in 
the  main,  the  system  of  cordon  pruning  advocated  by  the 
late  Mr.  Rivers  of  Sawbridgeworth,  who  was  a  very  suc- 
cesMul  rearer  of  cordon  Pear  trees,  as  w^ell  as  a  grower  of 
very  fine  Pears  upon  them.  There  should  never  be  more 
than  one  terminal  shoot,  and  that  shoot  should  always  be 
the  strongest  on  the  tree.  If  in  the  spring  the  buds  bn  the 
previous  season’s  growth  do  not  break  out  low'  enough 
down,  other  shoots  can  be  got  by  making  an  incision  just 
above  a  dormant  bud,  where  it  is  washed  to  have  another 
shoot.  ,  If  the  terminal  shoot  should  seem  to  be  running 
away  with  too  much  of  the  strength  of  the  tree  the  point 
may  be  pinched  out  about  midsummei’,  when  a  new  shoot 
will  continue  the  growth,  the  final  shortening  taking  place 
in  the  autumn,  either  above  or  below'  the  second  growth  as 
required.  ■  , 
Another  way  of  weakening  the  central  shoot  is  not  to 
shorten  it  in  the  autumn,  but  to  let  it  remain  its  full  length 
till  the  buds  begin  to  burst  in  the  spring,  and  then  shorten 
it,  w'hen,  part  of  its  vigour  having  gone  into  the  top  buds, 
the  strength  of  the  shoot  from  the  top  remaining  bud  will 
be  weakened  accordingly.  The  principle  to  be  acted  upon 
in  training  cordon  Pears  is  to  strengthen  the  weak  parts  ot 
the  tree  and  w'eaken  the  strong,  and  this  can  always  be 
accomplished  by  the  regulation  of  the  amount  o-  loiiage 
much  foliage  meaning  a  large  supply  of  sap  and  strong 
wood,  the  conve^'se  also  being  true.  Other  remarks  on  this 
subject  must  be  detained  for  another  article.  A.  1  etts. 
