Fcbniary  19,  ICO?. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
171 
iiient  in  the  soil,  Mliich  the  roots  can  utilise  later  on.  Should 
the  suifacc  of  the  ground  between  the  rows  be  hard  with  treading 
upon,  lightly  prick  it  up  with  a  fork,  avoiding  disturbing  the 
ribrous  roots  more  than  pos.sible.  A  good  mulching  of  manure 
may  then  be  spread  between  the  rows.  Any  new  can^\s  that  are 
planted  to  hll  up  vacancies  must  be  cut  down  closely  to  the 
ground,  as  by  this  means  only  can  fruitful  canes  be  eventually 
secured.  -  K.isi  Kent. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
PLANTING  FRUIT  TREES.— Though  trees  and  bushes 
planted  in  spring  have  not  cjuitc  so  good  a  chancei  of  passing 
safely  through  an  inordinately  di-y  season  as  those  planted  in 
early  autumn,  yet.  there  is  the  probability  of  their  flourishing 
satisfaciorily.  A  little  extra  special  attention  in  the>  matter  of 
watering,  mulching,  and  syringing  will  enable  them  to  do  this 
•should  tlie  early  summer  prove  very  dry.  for  it  is  at  that  season 
that  the  crisis  comes.  Should  the  weather  at  the  iDrcsent  time 
prove  to  be  dry,  and  the  soil  in  a  satisfactory  working  condition, 
the  opportunity  may  be  taken  to  insert  the  trees.  Bush  trees, 
standards,  pyramids,  and  wall  trees  may  all  be  planted.  If  they 
have  been  laid  in  temporarily  since  autumn,  ."urrounded  about 
the  roots  with  some  suitable  material,  some  of  them  may  have 
put  forth  young  fibres.  These  ought  to  be  preserved,  but  the 
roots  mu.st  not  be  unnecessarily  exposed,  else  these  tender 
rootlets  will  dry  up  quickly.  Therefore,  before  planting,  prepare 
the  holes  for  the  reception  of  the  trees;  then  lift,  and,  after 
pruning  away  any  injured  roots,  plant  quickly.  Some  prepared 
material  of  a  light,  rich  character  should  be  held  in  reacliness 
to  sprinkle  over  the  roots,  which  must  be  spread  out  to  their 
full  extent  in  .shallow,  wide  holes.  Spread  them  out  in  several 
distinct  layers,  covering  each  layer  with  soil,  .scattered  from  the 
stem  outwards,  -making  the  whole  firm.  To  the  standarchs  and 
pyramids  fix  a  stake  to  each,  and  tie  securely,  placing  a  piece 
of  sacking  or  some  straw  round  the  stem  of  the  tree  to  prevent 
abrasion  of  thei  bark.  Mulch  over  the  roots  with  some  light 
material.  Cordons,  fan-trained  trees,  and  others  planted  against 
waits  and  fences  ought  not  to  be  fully  secured  in  position  until 
the  trees  and  soil  have  settled. 
PLANTING  BUSH  FRUIT.— Young  Currants.  Gooseberries, 
and  Ra-si^berries  will  succeed  excellently  planted  now.  The 
bushes  u.sually  have  a  good  fibrous  root  .system  and  a  foundation 
of  branches  to  start  with,  which  may  be  multiplied  the  fir.st 
■season  by  cutting  clo.sely  back  after  planting.  Raspberries  should 
he  young  .suckers,  having  a  good  crown  of  fibres,  with  a  com¬ 
paratively  slender  stem,  which,  tO'  induce  strong  growth  the 
first  sea.son,  may  be  cut  down  to  the  ground  level.  Plant  in  rich 
ground.  Gooseberries  and  Currants  may  be  oft  or  Oft  apart. 
Raspberries  in  lines  oft  apart,  the  plants  1ft  apart. 
PRUNING  GOOSEBERRIES  AND  CURRANTS.— When  the 
pruning  of  the  bushes  has  been  deferred,  the  work  should  be 
completed,  growth  soon  becoming  active.  Severe  .spur  pruning 
of  Gooseberries  is  not  to  be  recommended.  The  better  .system  is 
to  leave  a  fair  amount  of  young  wood  distributed  well  over  the 
bushes.  First  give  a  general  thinning,  removing  the  crowded 
centres,  and  under-growths  touching  the  ground.  Pendulous- 
growing  Gooseberries  should  be  pruned  as  far  as  possible  to  upper 
buds.  Young  growths  extending  towards  the  centres  of  bushes 
ought  eitlier  to  he  cut  out  entirely  or  shortened  back  to  form 
spill’s.  The  extreme  tips  of  young  shoots  may  be  shortened, 
though  not  imperative  in  all  case's.  Red  and  White  Currants 
are  best  with  a.  limited  number  of  main  branches.  The  young 
.side  shoots,  being  summer  pruned,  should  again  be  shortened 
to  a  few  buds  at  the  base  of  each,  a  regular  system  of  .spur 
jiruning  being  adopted  for  the  -winter  pruning.  Young  wood 
is-  left  in  regular  quantity  over  Black  Currant  bushes.  Old 
growths  and  branches  are  cut  out,  vigorous  shoots  being  reserved 
from  near  the  base  to  take  the  place  of  exhausted  parts.  Spur 
jiruning  is  not  applicable. 
PRUNING  OUTDOOR  VINES.  If  Vines  on  walls  have  not 
lieen  dealt  with,  the  pruning  back  of  unnecessary  wood  should 
be  carried  out.  Vines  will  bear  on  wcll-ripenecl  canes  of  the 
previous  year;  therefore,  if  any  vacant  places  require  to  be 
filled  up  these  growths  may  be  laid  in,  shortening  them  to 
about  4ft.  The  .side  shoots  or  permanent  rods  must  be  pruned 
back  to  two  buds.  Reduce  the  number  of  these  if  crowded  ;  also 
shorten  distorted  and  elongated  spurs.  Should  the  rods  b©  much 
enfeebled  it  will  be  be.st  to  replace  them  with  younger.  Wash 
the  Vine.s  well  with  a  petroleum  emulsion,  and  refastan  to  the 
wall  or  trellis. 
RASPBERRIES. — The  treatment  of  Raspberries  at  this 
season  consists  mainly  in  completing  the  pruning,  thinning,  and 
shortening,  and  affording  to  the  roots  a  generous  mulching  of 
manure.  The  old  canes  were  cut  out  in  autumn,  and  some  of 
the  weak  ones.  A  further  reduction  may  now  be  made,  after¬ 
wards  the  selected  canes  which  are  to  be  retained  .’■hould  be 
spaced  out  and  tied  in  po.sition.  Shorten  the  tips  to  the  height 
of  the  wire  or  stake.  Remove  suckers  not  wanted.  A  good 
soaking  of  liquid  manure  will  act  beneficially  by  storing  nutri- 
Fruit  Forcing. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES;  EARLIEST  HOUSE.— 
The  recent  mild  weather  has  favoured  growth  and  the  fruit 
profits,  only  the  progress  is  not  too  rapid.  A  night  temperature 
of  oOdeg  to  d’Kleg,  and  (jOdeg  to  Godeg  by  day  being  secured. 
Without  much  recourse  to  fire  heat,  also  odeg^to  lOdcg  adVitnee' 
from  sun,  and  witli  free  ventilation,  which  Peachesi  and  Necta* 
rines  delight  in,  the  advance  mad©  ha.s.  been  .satisfactorj’.  When 
the  growth  is  strong  the  whole  of  the  foreright  shoots  may  be 
taken  off  at  once,  and  some  of  the  side  shoots  pinched  back  to 
form  .spur.s,  but  not.  on  growtlrsi  that  will  be  removed  after  the 
fruit  is  gathered,  retaining  the  best  breaks  from  the  base*  of 
the  shoot®  now  bearing.  Trees  that,  have  set  heavy  crops  of  frujt 
should  have  the  least  promising  removed,  especially  those  badly 
placed,  and,  to  help  weakly  trees,  afford  liquid  manure  when 
moi.sture  is  required  at  the  root.s,  or  supply  4oz  per  square  yard 
of  a  good  all-round  fertiliser.  If  the  trees  have  a  tendency  to 
produce  long  weakly  growths,  pale  in  colour,  us©  a  mixture  of 
two  parts  air-.slaked  lime  and  on©  part  soot,  mixing,  thoroughly 
and  applying  without  delay,  using  ^Ib  per  .square  yard.  This, 
from  the  ammonia  and  mineral  matter  contained  in  the  dean,  dry 
soot,  with  the  lime  acting  on  organic  matter  in  the  soil,  for  the 
dressing  should  be  lightly  pointed  in  to  prevent  the  loss  of 
ammonia,  will  supply  present  food  and  a  continuance  of  nutrition, 
which  without  the  lime  -ivould  remain  inert,  and  certainly  not 
nearly  so  available,  if  not  in  some  respects  injurious. 
Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  with  water 
of  the  .same  temperaturo  as  the  hou-se,  and  always  sufficiently 
early  tO'  allow  the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night.  On  dull 
days  omit  the  afternoon  .syringing,  also  the  morning  when  cold 
and  sunless,  damping  the  paths  and  borders  instead.  Ventilate 
from  GOdeg,  increasing  with  the  sun  heat,  taking  care  to  avoid 
cold  draughts  and  sudden  depressions  of  temperature,  which 
cripple  the  foliage  and  sometimes  causing  the  fruit  to  fall. 
SECOND  EARLY  HOUSE. — ^Trees  started  at  the  new  year 
have  set  the  fruit,  and  as  soon  as  thi,®  i.s  completed,  need  to  b© 
syringed  carefully,  so  as  to  better  enable  them  to  cast  off  the 
remains  of  the  flowers.  A  night  temperature  of  oOdeg  is  safe 
in  severe  weather,  and  oodeg  by  day,  ocleg  more  in  mild  weather, 
with  5deg  to  lOdeg  rise  from  sun  heat.  Ventilation  should  be 
increased  (a  little  being  left  on  constantly)  from  oodeg,  and 
having  it  full  at  Godeg;  then  the  trees  will  form  .sturdy  growths 
and  foliage  capable  of  a.ssimilating  nutrition  for  the  current 
crop,  ancl  making  provision  for  a  succeeding  one.  Disbud 
gradually  and  judiciously  when  the  fruit  is  fairly  Siwelling,  and, 
when  begun,  follow  it  up  day  by  day.  Where  there  is  a  thick 
set  of  fruit,  remove  the  smallest  and  worst  placed  by  degrees, 
.Examine  the  inside  border,  and,  if  dry,  afford  a  thorough  .supply 
of  water,  followed,  if  necessary,  by  liquid  pourishment,  or  a. 
top-dressing  of  a  fertiliser  washed  in  moderately.  Avoid,  how¬ 
ever,  making  the  soil  .sodden,  or  needlessly  supply  manure,  wliich 
in  some  cases  is  too  abundant  and  in  others  deficient. 
TREES  STARTED  IN  FEBRUARY. — In  the  house  started  at 
the  beginning  of  the  month  the  flowers  are  all  aglow  with  beauty, 
and  give  off  a  fragrance  that  betrays  abundance  of  nectar.  The 
trees  must  be  free  from  fungus  and  in.sect  pests,  or  results  will 
not  be  satisfactory.  When  the  anthers  show  clear  of  the  corolla, 
cliscontinue  syringing,  maintaining  a  genial  atmosphere  by 
damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  early  after¬ 
noon  of  fine  days.  Turn  on  the  heat  in  the  morning  to  .secure 
and  keep  a  temperature  of  fiOdog  by  day,  ventilating  from 
oGdeg,  allowing  an  advance  to  GOdeg  or  Godeg  with  a  free  circula¬ 
tion  of  air,  employing  fire  heat  only  at  night,  to  keep  the  tem¬ 
perature  between  40deg  and  45deg,  and  with  a.  little  air  at  the 
top  of  the  house  constantly  there  is  no  fear  of  the  pollen  being 
converted  into  paste  by  moisture  or  of  this  settling  on  the  petals 
to  discolour  them.  Where  there  is  a  great  .show  of  blos-som, 
remove  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots.  Supply  water  to  the 
border  if  in  need  of  moisture.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  when  fully 
expanded  and  the  pollen  is  ripe. 
HOUSES  TO  AFFORD  RIPE  FRUIT  IN  LATE  JULY  .\ND 
EARLY  AUGUST. — These,  planted  with  the  choicest  mid.st'asoii 
varieties,  should  be  closed  early  in  March.  When  the  blos.soms 
arc  retarded  and  \ViIl  not  keep  from  developing^,  theio  is  notliing 
for  it  but  to  secure  safety  from  frost  after  the  buds  show  colour^ 
syringing  occasionally  up  to  that,  then  ceasing,  and  instead  of 
allowing  the  flowers  to  peri.sh,  as  they  certainly  will  do  m  a  cold, 
close  moist  atmosphere,  maintain  a  temperature  of  oOdeg  by 
day  and,  with  ventilation;  from  that  point  an  advance  may  be 
macie  from  sun  heat  to  GOdeg  to  G-Gdeg,  employing  fire  heat  only 
