March  5,  19C3. 
JOUBNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  A  HD  COTTATE  GARDENER. 
205 
Cactaceous  Plants." 
{Continued  from  p.  ISl.) 
The  majority  of  Cacti  are  of  easy  culture  providing  that  the 
fundamental  rules  are  cari’ied  out.  It  is  a  popular  error  to  suppose 
that  all  the  Cactus  tribe  thrive  in  a  compost  which  consists  jrrincipallij 
of  broken  bricks,  mortar  rubble,  and  sand.  The  fact  is,  plants  grown 
in  a  compost  of  that  soi-t  soon  become  very  unsightly  objects,  for  the 
growth  is  weak,  and  they  soon  assume  a  stunted,  shrivelled  appear¬ 
ance  for  the  want  of  sufficient  nourishment.  It  is  all  very  well 
imitating  Nature  in  the  matter  of  soil,  but  one  can  go  too  far  in 
this  respect.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  though  Cacti  are  usually 
found  growing  in  x’ocky  or  sandy  wastes,  the  roots  travel  over  a  wide 
area,  or  strike  down  deeply  into  the  crevasses  of  the  rocks,  and  so 
find  sufficient  food  to  support  their  growth.  When  the  roots  ai’e 
confined  to  an  ordinary  flower  pot  the  ease  is,  obviously,  very  different, 
and  a  different  soil  has  to  be  provided  to  ensure  success.  I  have 
tried  all  sorts  of  composts,  and  I  find  the  best  for  nearly  all  kinds 
consists  of  leaf 
mould,  about 
three  years  old, 
tliree-fifths;  loam, 
that  has  been 
stacked  for  not 
less  than  twelve 
months,  one-fifth ; 
fine  white  sand, 
one-fifth  ;  and  a 
little  mortar 
rubble.  This 
mixture  should  be 
exposed  to  all 
weathers, and  fre¬ 
quently  turned 
for  twelve  months 
before  being  used. 
All  pots  must  be 
carefully  crocked 
to  ensure  perfect 
drainage;  stagna^- 
tion  means  cer¬ 
tain  death  to 
Cacti,  especially 
Echinoeactus  and 
Mammillarias,  or 
all  the  globular 
kinds.  Make  the 
soil  moderately 
firm  in  potting, 
and  if  the  plants 
have  been  shaken 
out  place  them  in 
the  smallest  pots 
you  can.  Provid¬ 
ing  the  soil  be 
moderately  moist, 
no  water  will  be 
required  forabout 
a  week.  Shade 
dui’ing  hot  sun¬ 
shine  till  the 
plants  become 
established.  In 
repotting  esta - 
hlislied  plants  be 
careful  not  to  give 
them  too  big  a 
shift,  especially 
the  slow-growing 
kinds,  such  as  the 
Echinocaeti.  If  it  is  found  that  the  roots  of  any  plant  are  dead,  or 
the  base  is  decayed,  cut  away  all  the  decayed  parts,  and  expose  the 
plant  to  the  sun  for  a  day  or  two  before  repotting.  When  performing 
the  latter  operation  put  plenty  of  sand  for  the  base  of  the  plant  to 
rest  on.  March  is  the  best  month  for  the  operation  of  repotting. 
The  water-pot  is  a  deadly  enemy  to  the  Cactus  in  inexperienced 
hands,  especially  during  winter,  when  most  of  the  plants  are  resting. 
During  tliat  period  care  must  be  exercised  not  to  allow  any  water  to 
settle  on  the  crowns  of  the  plants.  Choose  a  fine  sunny  morning  for 
watering,  and  raise  the  temperature,  of  the  house  about  5  deg.  for  a 
few  days.  A  temperature  of  50  deg.,  Fahr.,  during  winter,  is  a  safe 
one  for  most  species.  During  severe  frost,  providing  the  plants  and 
the  atmosphere  are  dry,  it  may  fall  to  45  deg.  During  foggy  weather 
keep  up  a  temperature  of  55  deg.,  fog  being  a  deadly  enemy.  The 
majority  of  plants  commence  growth  in  March,  therefore  early  in  that 
montli  wash  down  the  house  inside  and  out,  pour  boiling  water  under 
all  stages  and  other  places  likely  to  harbour  woodlice  and  other  pests, 
limewash  walls  and  wash  pots,  look  over  the  plants,  and  if  any  are 
»  A  paper  read  at  Manchester  by  Mr.  Arthur  Cobtold,  Holly  Point,  Heaton  Mersey. 
infested  with  mealy  bug  or  scale,  syringe  them  vigorously  with  water 
of  a  temperature  of  135  deg.,  Fahr.  If  these  are  very  badly  infested 
cleanse  the  roots,  and  so  have  everything  thorcughly  clean  for  a 
start.  Gradually  raise  the  temperature  and  ventilate  freely  on  warm 
sunny  days,  leaving  a  chink  of  air  on  at  night  during  all  weathers, 
except  when  very  frosty,  in  order  to  ensure  a  buoyant  atmosphere. 
During  .summer  the  temperature  may  rise  to  90  deg.  by  clay.  Do  not 
then  shut  up,  and  syringe  in  the  usual  way,  gradually  reducing  the 
ventilation.  Let  the  minimum  tcmpciature  be  about  70  deg.  In  the 
spring  months  syringe  the  plants  in  the  morning  on  sunny  days.  In 
summer  they  are  benefited  by  syringing  in  the  evening  in  hot  weather 
when  the  sun  is  oft'  them. 
At  the  beginning  of  August,  when  most  of  the  plants  will  have 
finished  their  groAvth,  increase  the  ventilation  night  and  day,  and 
expose  them  to  full  sunshine,  also  endeavour  to  have  all  growth  well 
ripened  before  dull  weather  sets  in.  Diminish  the  supplies  of  water 
as  the  sun  continues  to  lose  power.  During  November,  December, 
January,  and  the  fore  part  of  February,  water  will  only  be  rec|uired 
about  once  a  montli,  except  in  the  case  of  very  small  plants  and  a 
number  of  South 
American  genera, 
such  as  Phyllo- 
caetus,  Epiphyl- 
lum,  Echinopsis, 
and  certain 
species  of  Opun- 
tia,  Echinoeactus, 
and  Mammilla¬ 
rias. 
With  regard  to 
insect  pests  and 
diseases,  and  their 
eradication,  I  will 
not  ■  say  much. 
Mealy  bug  and 
red  spider  are  the 
worst  insects  to 
deal  w'ith,  and 
when  a  plant  be¬ 
comes  badly  in¬ 
fested  with  the 
Bryophyllum  calycinum. 
some  species, 
obviously,  very 
difficult  to  dis¬ 
lodge  them.  I 
find  if  plants  are 
kept  in  a  robust 
state  of  health 
there  is  not  much 
fear  of  these  pests 
getting  the  upper 
hand.  Their  con¬ 
stant  presence  on 
a  plant  is  nearly 
always  an  indica¬ 
tion  that  it  is  not 
in  good  health, 
the  insects  being 
the  result  not  the 
cause  ;  it  is  pro¬ 
bably  in  too  higli 
a  temperature,  or 
the  atmosphere  is 
too  dry  to  suit  it. 
Endeavour  to  find 
a  cooler  place ;  if 
in  summer,  a  cold 
frame,  for  in¬ 
stance,  with 
plenty  of  air.  Of 
diseases,  a  kind  of  black-rot  is  very  destructive.  This  disease  is 
sometimes  caused  by  a  cheek  during  the  growing  season,  to  plants 
that  have  made  rapid  growth,  by  suddenly  withholding  water,  or  by 
stagnant  water  at  the  roots,  the  result  of  bad  drainage  or  improper 
soil.  It  may  also  be  the  result  of  a  low  temperature  during  tlie 
presence  of  a  large  amount  of  atmospheric  moisture,  or  when  the 
plants  are  wet  at  the  roots.  The  only  thing  to  be  done  with  a  diseased 
plant  is  to  cut  out  the  affected  part. with  a  sharp  knife,  and  dry  the 
wound  well  in  the  sun,  or  in  a  dry  warm  corner  near  the  hot-water 
pipes.  Apply  dry  lime  or  powdered  charcoal  if  it  does  not  heal 
quickly. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Summer  Spinach  is  a  useful,  early,  and  succulent  vegetable.  A 
few  rows  should  be  sown  on  good,  rich  ground.  The  spaces  between 
early  rows  of  Peas  are  usually  occupied  with  this  crop,  but  other 
positions  will  do.  The  Victoria  or  Long-standing  round  Spinach  is 
the  best.  Sow  moderately  thinly  in  shallow  wide  drills. 
