304 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  2,  1903. 
liealth,  and  not  too  luxuriant,  the  prospect  of  stoning  a  full  crop 
of  fruit  i.s  more  likely  than  when  the  trees  are  overburdened, 
whilst  deferring  thinning  only  takes  so  much  from  size  of  fniits 
that  are  alternately  allowed  to  remain  for  the  crop.  Inside 
borders  must  be  duly  watered,  and  may  be  mulched  with  sweet 
stable  manure  freed  from  straw,  but  not  too  fresh  or  too  thick. 
CUCUMBEllS. — Winter  fruiters  will  require  frequent  atten¬ 
tion  for  removing  exhausted  growths  and  bad  leaves,  thinning 
whore  too  crowded  in  order  to  encourage  a  free  growth  and  a  suc- 
cessional  supply  of  clean,  .straight  fruits.  Stop  the  bearing  jiarts 
two  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  and  secure  the  growths  to  the  trellis. 
It  will  much  invigorate  the  plants  by  removing  a  little  of  the 
surface  soil  where  it  can  be  done  without  injury  to-  the  roots,  sup¬ 
plying  a  top-dressing  of  turfy  loam  with  a  sprinkling  of  approved 
fertiliser.  When  the  roots  are  active  in  the  top-dressing  sprinkle 
a  few  sweetened  horse-droppings  on  the  bed  occasionally,  with  a 
light  dusting  of  soot^ — a  small  handful  per  .square  yard — alternat¬ 
ing  with  an  approved  fertiliser  (such  a.s  Clay’s  and  Thomson’.s), 
or  three  parts  superphosphate,  two  parts  sulphate  of  pota.sh, 
and  one  part  nitrate  of  soda,  applying  2oz  of  the  mixture  per 
square  yard ;  or,  again,  a  mixture  of  two  parts  phosphate  of 
potash  and  one  part  nitrate  of  ammonia,  applying  loz  of  the  mix¬ 
ture  per  square  yard.  The  object  is  to  get  plenty  of  vigour  in  the 
IDlants  and  colour  in  the  fruit.  If  that  is  not  enough,  and  the 
plants  crop  heavily,  supply  liquid  manure  of  a  nitrogenous  nature^, 
such  as  nitrate  of  soda,  ^oz  to  a  gallon  of  water,  always  having 
the  water  or  liquid  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  mean  of 
the  house.  Manure-heated  pits,  and  frames  which  have  been  set 
to  work  some  weeks,  will  require  good  linings.  This  is  be.st 
effected  by  removing  as  much  of  the  outside  of  the  beds  as  can 
be  .spared,  and  if  the  heat  has  not  much  declined  it  will  suffice  to 
line  one  half  of  the  bed  at  once,  deferring  the  other  half  until  the 
heat  is  again  on  the  decline.  To  be  effective  the  lining  .should  be 
2ft  wide,  for  these  linings  are  soon  spent,  and  soon  require 
renewal.  Look  carefully  to  the  frame  after  the  heat  generates  in 
the  lining  to  see  that  there  is  no  accumulation  of  rank  .steam, 
preventing  it  by  a  little  ventilation,  especially  when  the  sun 
shines.  Add  more  soil  as  the  roots  spread  on  the  .surface,  taking 
care  to  have  it  warmed.  The  night  teinjoerature  should  be  main¬ 
tained  by  placing  the  coverings  on  the  lights  by  the  time  the  sun 
is  off,  say  about  five  o’clock  in  severe  weather,  never  delaying 
beyond  six  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  at  this  time  of  year. — 
St.  Albans. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
APRICOTS. — A  commencement  may  be  made  in  disbudding 
the  superfluous  shoots  of  Apricots.  Rub  off  all  those  that  are 
growing  behind  the  branches  and  other  undesirable  positions, 
and  give  a  light  iDreliminary  thinning  generally  over  the  trees. 
The  fruits,  too,  if  set  thickly,  may  be  gradually  thinned,  i-etaining 
the  fruits  which  are  swelling  freely  and  well  pla,ced  for  full 
develoioment.  Undersized,  deformed,  and  crowded  fruits  may 
in  all  ca.ses  be  dispensed  with,  the  sooner,  for  the  benefit  of 
others,  the  better.  A  look  out  ought  to  be  kept  for  aphis.  On 
its  appearance  dust  the  shoots  affected  with  tobacco  powder.  The 
protecting  material  which  has  been  employed  to  safeguard  the 
blooms  may  be  continued  when  necessary  over  the  fruits. 
PLANTING  OUTDOOR  FIGS. — It  is  seldom  that  a  whole 
length  of  wall  in  a  favourable  aspect  can  be  devoted  solely  to  the 
culture  of  Figs,  a  few  trees  usually  .sufficing  to  give  a  limited 
supply  of  fruit.  The  aspect  should  be  well  chosen,  a.  warm  south 
wall  or  gable-end  being  the  best  positions  in  order  to  well  ripen 
the  wood  and  mature  the  fruit.  The  soil  also  must  be  .suitable — 
a  fertile,  friable  loam  of  a  sandy  and  rather  calcareous  character 
being  adapted.  The  latter  character  may  be  imparted  to  it  by 
adding  linie  or  mortar  rubbish.  Add  no  manure,  and  see  that 
the  subsoil  is  well  drained.  A  border  of  large  width  is  not  re¬ 
quired,  Oft  being  ample.  The  treers  may  be  planted,  if  on  a  wall 
where  several  are  grown,  loft  apart.  The  trees  should  be 
allowed  liberal  extension,  and  encouraged  to  form  short  jointed 
young  wood,  which  may  be  trained  in  to  furnish  the  space  equally 
without  crowding.  In  planting,  make  the  soil  firm  about  the 
roots,  as  this  helps  considerably  in  producing  and  maintaining 
a  fruitful  character.  If  a  maiden  tree  is  planted,  this  consisting 
of  one  .stem,  shorten  it  to  l-^in.  On  growth  breaking,  select  two 
shoots,  one  on  each  side.  These  will  eventually  produce^  two 
each,  disposing  them  with  ample'  space  betweeu  to-  allow  of 
the  bearing  shoots  occupying  the  spaces  between.  Train  these  at 
full  length,  and  see  that  they  are  not  overcrowded.  Secure,  if 
possible,  those  irlants  well  equipped  with  fibrous  roots,  carefully 
spreading  the.se  out  between  layers  of  soil,  and  making  firm. 
During  the  summer  a  mulching  of  manure  should  be  spread  on 
the  soil  over  the  roots.  The  best  outdoor  variety  is  Brown 
Turkey.  Instead  of  planting  maidens,  small  fan-trained  trees 
may  be  procured  and  planted. 
young  fruit  TRFFS. — Various  small  details  are  necessary 
in  the  treatment  of  fruit  trees  which  have  oirly  recently  been 
planted.  Standards,  or  any  needing  .support,  must  be  secured 
Avithout  delay,  a.s  wind  rocking  prevents  rooting.  Shortening 
the  shoots  is  essential,  pruning  them  back  one-third  to  half  their 
length.  This  pruning  is  specially  needful  where  th-?>  Tipper  buds 
are  bloom  buds.  Stropg  wood  growth  rvill  follow,  wdiich,  mu.st 
be  di.sbudded  and  regulated  in  order  to  form  good  shaped  speci¬ 
mens.  Youirg  wall  trees  planted  in  autumn  hav'e  settled  down 
into  a  permanent  position.  It  is,  therefore,  .safe  to  nail  in  the 
shoots,  pruning,  if  necessary,  and  carefully  disposing  the  best 
growths. — Fast  Kent. 
• 
*  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C,  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
ARTIFICIAL  MANURE  FOR  POTATOES  (A.  B.  C.  D.).— 
The  proposed  mixture,  namely,  one  part  nitrate  of  potash,  one 
part  .sulphate  of  ammonia,  and  two  parts  superphosphate  of  lime 
is  not  a  suitable  one,  unless  the  intention  is  to  grow  tops  and 
coar.s0  large  waxy  tubers.  If  the  land  be  heavy  the  following 
mixture  would  be  suitable  :  Superphosphate  of  lime,  three  parts; 
double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia  (refined  kainit),  tAVo 
parts;  sulphate  of  ammonia,  one  part;  mixed,  applying  at  the 
rate  of  bewt.  per  acre,  or  41b  per  rod.  If  light  land;  Super- 
pho.sphate  and  bonemeal  in  equal  parts,  three  parts ;  kainit,  tivo 
part.s;  and  nitrate  of  .soda,  one  part;  mixed,  applying  6cAvt  per 
acre,  41b  per  rod.  In  the  latter  case,  and  if  no  natural  (stable 
or  farmyard  manure  AA'ell  rotted)  manure  be  applied,  supplement 
by  5cAvt  or  rape  dust  per  acre,  or  3jlb  per  rod.  With  manure,  or 
folloAving  a  manured  crop,  SJcAvt  superphosphate,  and  l^cwt 
muriate  of  potash,  mixed,  per  acre,  or  3 Jib  of  the  mixture  per 
rod,  is  good. 
LEAVES  AND  STEMS  OF  PEACH  TREE  FOR  OPINION 
(J.  D.). — Yes,  the  leai'es  are  affected  by  Avhat  is  known  as  silver- 
leaf  disease,  Avhich  is  said  to  be  caused  by  Stereunii  purpureum,  a 
fungus  living  in  the  tissues  of  the  roots,  root-stem,  or  even  stem 
above  gi’ound  and  branches  of  the  tree,  and  also  found  produced 
by  inoculating  healthy  tissues  Avith  tho.se  from  a  diseased  tree. 
We  certainly  haA^e  found  the  stereum  on  the  dead  parts  of 
Portugal  Laurels,  and  ermn  on  Plum  trees,  both  very  subject  to 
sih^er-leaf  disease.  The  disease,  hoAvever,  occurs  Avhere  there 
is  not  any  traces  of  the  fungus,  but  is  prevalent  in  initial  stages 
of  gumming,  the  branches  collapsing  from  gum  disease  Avithout 
presence  of  the  stereum.  The  disease  appears  favoured  or  induced 
liy  rich  soil,  overfeeding,  unripe  Avood  acted  upon  by  cold,  ex- 
cessiA'e  Augour,  and  sudden  atmospheric  changes.  Sih’er-leaf, 
hoAveA’er,  occurs  under  the  oppo.site  extremes  of  poor  soil,  Avant 
of  nourishment,  and  ill  condition.  A  dressing  of  sulphate  of  iron 
at  the  rate  of  Joz.  to  the  square  yard  proA^es  beneficial  both  for 
silver-leaf  and  yellows.  We  har^e  found  lifting  the  affected 
trees,  providing  perfect  drainage,  and  rather  strong  calcareous 
loam,  Avith  considerable  gritty  matter,  the  best  treatment. 
STRAWBERRY  PLANTS  GONE  BLIND  (Old  Reader).— The 
plants  liaA^e  lost  their  central  growth  or  main  croAvn  bud,  and  in 
consequence  of  injury  thereto  have  produced  a  number  of  side 
groAvtlis  giving  them  a  tufted  appearance  as  if  several  years  old, 
and  all  “blind,”  or  not  containing  floAver  bud.s  of  any  value. 
There  is  no  trace  of  insect  pests,  though  the  central  croAvn  bud 
appear.-;  to  have  been  injured  by  some  irest,  probably  the  jump¬ 
ing  insects  to  Avhich  you  allude,  Avhich  Avas  probably  one  of  the 
frog  flies,  jumpers,  or  cuckoo  flies,  Euacanthus  interruptus, 
though,  from  your  description,  it  more  accords  Avith  the  Hop 
flea,  Haltica  concinna.  This  latter  occa,sionally  infests  the 
croAvns,  and  stunts  or  destroys  the  groAvth.  We  cannot,  hoAV- 
ever,  find  the  needful  evidence  of  such  injury.  Possibly  .spraying 
Avith  paraffin  oil  emulsion  made  by  di.s.solving  one  quart  of  soft- 
soap  in  tAvo  (juarts  of  soft  Avater,  and  removing  from  the  fire, 
adding,  Avhilst  boiling  hot,  one  pint  of  paraffin  oil,  immediately 
churning  the  mixture  Avith  a  small  hand  syringe.  In  five  minutes 
a  perfect  emulsion  is  secured,  and  this  diluted  Avith  ten  times 
its  volume  of  Avater  is  fit  for  use.  This  should  be  sprayed  on  as 
soon  as  the  insects  appear,  or  preferably  in  adA'anco  of  their 
attacks,  as  a  preventiA'e.  The  treatment  you  propo.se  adopting 
is  good,  but  instead  of  using  lime  Ave  should  apply  a  mixture  of 
eight  parts  basic  cinder  pho<sphate  and  three  parts  kainit,  IScAvt 
per  acre,  10.)lb  per  rod,  and  point  into  the  ground  about  Cin 
deep,  taking  small  spits  .so  as  to  mix  eA’enly  Avith  the  soil,  and 
some  little  time  in  adAmnc?  of  planting.  If  the  soil  is  light  use 
a  mixture  of  air-slaked  lime  and  soot  in  equal  parts  by  measure, 
applying  Jib  of  the  mixture  per  square  yard,  and  point  in.  The 
fundgus  is  not  of  a  parasitic  nature.  It  Avill,  hoAvever,  be  neces- 
