3iG 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
April  9,  1903. 
April  Treatment  of  the  Plants. 
Cold  frame  treatment  is  the  best  for  all  Chrysanthemums  well 
rooted  in  pots.  With  this  and  abundance  of  air  they  must  grow 
sturdily.  Fairly  strong  plants  in  3in  pots  will  shortly  become 
rootbound,  therefore,  attention  should  be  given  to  tbeni  in  the 
way  of  shifting  into  larger  pots,  as  it  is  imperative  thaj;.  no  check 
should  be  encountered  by  them  at  this  stage.  The  stems  will 
run  up  tall  and  weakly  if  they  are  allowed  to  be  potbound.  This 
shift  will  carry  them  on  until  the  final  potting.  Five  and  six 
inch  pots  are  the  best  sizes  for  this  potting.  See  that  the  pots 
are  clean,  dry,  and  strong. 
Prepare  the  compost  a  day  or  two  beforehand.  The  materials 
for  the  purpose  may  consist  of  two  parts  fibrous  loam,  half 
decayed,  and  broken  up  moderately  small,  one  part  sweet  leaf 
soil  free  from  injurious  grubs  or  insects,  half  a  part  decayed  horse 
manure  rubbed'  through  a  sieve,  with  an  admixture  of  burnt 
refuse,  consisting  of  charcoal  and  wood  ashes,  and  a  proportion  of 
sharp  sand.  Thoroughly  mix  all  together,  and  ensure  moisture,  if 
•  dry,  by  sprinkling  with  water  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  state,  which 
should  be  neither  wet  nor  dry.  The  pots  must,  of  course,  be 
drained  well,  but  avoid  placing  in  an  excessive  amount  of  crocks. 
A  few  of  the  latter,  and  a  good  layer  of  rough  parts  of  the  com¬ 
post  or  small  turfy  pieces,  will  give  ample  drainage,  and  at  the 
P*‘0'"ide  something  into  which  the  roots  can  penetrate 
and  find  some  beneficial  sustenance.  The  plants  to  be  shifted 
1^®  Quite  moist  at  the  roots  when  turned  out.  If  watered 
the  day  before  this  will  be  ensured  without  the  soil  being  too 
u  7  ^  should  be  loosened,  and  the  top  of  the 
I'all  broken  away,  so  that  the  fibres  can  take  hold  of  the  new  soil 
readily. 
In  potting,  work  the  soil  well  round,  making  the  new  soil  as 
firm  as  the  old  ball.  To  plants  that  require,  it  place  a  neat 
stake  so  as  to  pre.serve  a  straight  and  upright  growth,  and 
preverit  mishaps.  Return  the  plants  to  a  frame,  no  water  being 
needed  for  a  day  or  two,  and  keep  close.  Watch  for  the  soil 
drying,  then  give  a  supply  to  reach  the  whole  of  the  roots.  As 
Soon  as  it  is  seen  that  growth  has  recommenced  give  air  in 
increasing  quantities  from  day  to  day,  also  a  little  at  night. 
After  this,  watering  will  be  frequently  necessary,  and  must  be 
supplied  without  delay,  never  allowing  the  plants  to  suffer  in  the 
least  iroin  this  cause.  More  air  must  be  afterwards  given ;  in 
r  ^  exposure  may  be  hasarded  when  the  plants  are  estab¬ 
lished,  standing  them  in  a  position  shelteredi  from  rough  winds 
and  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes.  .  ■  ’ 
Stopping  Chrysanthemums  at  this  season  of  the  year  has  a 
twofold  nieaning.  Growers  who  wish  for  large  blooms  to  develop 
at  a  suitable  time  for  exhibition  or  special  display  can  best  ensure 
those  varieties  doing  so,  whicli  bloom  too  early  or  too  late,  in  the 
ordinary  way,  by  stopping  the  growths— that  is,  taking  out  the 
leading  points  during  April.  Those  varieties  which  bloom  late 
ought  to  be  stopped  early  this  month  to  induce  an  early  break 
from  the  main  stem,  and  thus  encourage  more  forward  growths. 
I  he  varieties  which  bloom  naturally  rather  early  it  is  possible  to 
retard  for  a  November  display  by  stopping  about  the  end  of  the 
month.  These  will  possibly  produce  second  crown  buds  late  in 
August,  and  good  blooms  iii  November.  ■  This  is  the  general 
rule,  but  there  are  exceptions,  as,  for  instanoe,  those  late 
nowering  Japanese,  which  produce  good  blooms  on  first  crown 
/buds,  may  be  stopped  the  last  week  in  April.  Some  are  not 
stopped  at  all,  but  allowed  to  break  naturally,  in  some  cases 
securing  fipt,  in  others  second,  crown  buds.  The  other  form  of 
stopping  alluded  to  is  taking  the  points  out  of  the  leading  shoots 
to  cause  the  plants  to  form  a  bushy  habit.  This  may  be  done 
several  times  to  the  end  of  June  each  time  when  the  shoots  are 
4in  long.— E.  D.  S. 
A  Chrysanthemum  Show  at  Dumfries. 
The  directors  of  the  resuscitated  Dumfriesshire  and  Galloway 
Hoiticultural  Society  have  resolved  to  hold  a  Chrvsantheiinum  • 
show  at  Dumfries  this  year.  It  will  be  held  in  the  Drill  Hall 
on  iNovember  18.  It  is  a  good  many  years  since  a  Chrysanthemum 
sliov  was  held  in  Dumfries,  and  since  the  last  one  the  number  of 
considerably  increased.  Tire  schedule  will  be  issued 
shortly— S.  A. 
A  Classification  of  the  Narcissns.* 
All  Cases  in  Dispute  to  be  Decided  by  Actual  Measurement- 
Daffodils,  Group  I.— Magni-Coronati  (Baker). 
Ajax  of  Salisbury,  Haworth  and  Herbert,  Pseudo-Narcissus 
of  Parkinson. 
Vase  trunks  or  large  trumpet  Daffodils,  and  including  the 
species  Bulbocodium,  cyclamineus,  and  Pseudo-Narcissus. 
Ifistiiuiuishinq  character  ;  Tube  of  flower  as  broad  as  it  is  long  (ex¬ 
cept  in  the  case  of  Johnstoni),  and  the  crown  or  trumpet  three- 
quarter  as  long,  or  longer  than  the  perianth  segments 
A.  Ajax  or  Trumpet  Daffodils. 
(1)  Yellow  .seifs. 
(2)  Bicolors  with  white  perianth  and  yellow  trumpet. 
(3)  Silvery  white  and  sulphur  white  seifs. 
(4)  Doubles. 
B.  Johnstoni,  hybrids  of  Ajax  x.  Triandrus,  tube  of  flower  much 
longer  than  it  is  wide. 
C.  Backhousei  varieties,  hybrids  of  Ajax  x.  Tazetta,  the  seed 
parent  being  Ajax. 
D.  Tridymus  varieties,  hybrids  of  Ajax  x.  Tazetta,  which  latter 
is  the  seed  bearing  parent. 
E.  Humei. — F.  Bulbocodium,  Hoop-Petticoat  Daffodils. — G. 
cyclamineus. 
Daffodils,  Group  II.— Medio-Coronatl  (Baker). 
Hybrid  Chalice-cupped  Daffodils  or  Star  Narcissi  (mo.stly 
hybrids  of  Poeticus  x.  Ajax),  including  the  species  Triandrus  and 
Juncifolius,  and  the  hybrids  Macleai,  Bernardi,  and  Odorus. 
A.  Incomparabilis.  Distinciuisliinq  character :  Depth  of  cup  one- 
third  to  not  more  than  three-quarters  the  length  of  perianth 
segments. 
(1)  Cup-shaped  crow  ns ;  cup  as  long  or  longer  than  it  is 
wdde  at  mouth. 
(2)  Saucer-shaped  crowns ;  cup  flattened  and  much 
broader  or  wider  than  it  is  deep. 
B.  Barri.  Distinquishing  character :  Depth  of  cup  one-quarter  to 
one-third  the  length  of  perianth  segments. 
(1)  Cup-shaped  crowns. 
(2)  Saucer-shaped  crowns. 
C.  Leedsi.  Comprising  the  silvery-white  varieties  of  the  incom¬ 
parabilis  and  Barri  forms. 
D.  Macleai  and  Nelsoni,  hybrids  of  Ajax  x.  Tazetta. 
E.  Bernardi,  hybrid  of  Abschssus  x.  Poeticus. 
F.  Odorus,  G.  Triandrus,  H.  Juncifolius. 
Daffodils,  Group  III.— Parvl-Coronati  (Baker). 
Dolly  cups  of  hybrid  Poet’s  Daffodils.  Disthiguishing  character: 
Depth  of  cup  less  than  one-quarter  the  length  of  perianth 
segments. 
A.  Burbidgei.  (1)  Cup-shaped  crowns. 
(2)  Flattened  or  saucer-shaped  crowns. 
B.  Poeticus  or  True  Poet’s  Daffodil. 
C.  Tazetta,  including  tenuior,  gracilis,  Intermedius,  biflorus, 
Sehizanthes  orientalis,  dubius,  serotinus,  elegans,  viridiflorus, 
pachybulbus,  canariensis,  Broussoneti,  &c.  D.  Jonquilla. 
Harton  Cemetery,  Sonth  Shields^ 
An  excellent  example  of  the  use  of  some  of  our  ordinary 
spring  flowering  alpine  and  herbaceous  plants  in  combination 
W'ith  spring  flowering  bulbous  rooted  species,  is  to  be  seen  at  this 
well-cared-for  and  highly  interesting  cemetery  belonging  to-  the 
borough  of  South  Shields.  About  half  an  hour’s  walk  from  the 
town  through  the  picturesque  little  Westoe  village,  on  a  rather 
high  and  unprotected  plateau,  that  at  times  feels  the  force  of  the 
strong  north-easterly  winds,  one  can  imagine  what  difficulties  our 
northern  friends  have  to  contend  with  compared  with  us  in  the 
South.  Right  and  left  of  tlie  main  entrance  are  mounds  of  choice 
alpine  plants,  even  to  a  specimen  of  the  Edelweis,  and  at  the 
angles  W’here  the  cross  drives  intersect,  the  same  features  are 
observed.  The  main  drives  are  quite  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length.  Next  the  drive  is  a  broad  band  of  turf,  and  a  border 
of  three  rows  of  dark  Wallflowers,  and  one  of  yellow^,  with  a 
margin  on  the  scolloped  borders  of  Myosotis,  and  when  it  can  be 
realised  that  it  takes  1,200  plants  in  one  row,  and  that  there  are 
about  36,000  W^allflowers  alone  employed  in  embellishing  these 
grounds,  one  can  imagine  the  delight  to  the  senses  of  sight  and 
smell  to  the  many  hundreds  that  visit  this  spot. 
♦  The  above  classification  of  the  genus  Narcissus  was  pre.sented  for  considera¬ 
tion  to  the  Narcissus  Clommittee  of  the  Royal  Horticultural  f-'oeiety  on  the  7th 
inst.,  by  Messrs.  Barr  and  Sons,  of  London.  It  was,  however,  agreed,  after 
discussion,  to  drop  the  subject  for  the  present ;  but  the  classification  will, 
nevertheless,  be  of  much  interest  to  our  readers.— Eo. 
