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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
May  14,  1903. 
a.s  regards  its  condition,  which  at  this  stage  must  be  kept  moist, 
therefore  if  necessary  a  thorough  supply  of  water  must  be  afforded 
without  delay.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as  they  lengthen,  and  stop 
those  not  required  for  training  at  the  fifth  leaf.  Black  aphides 
can  be  kept  under  by  dipping  and  rubbing  the  leaves  or  shoots 
in  tobacco  water.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions, 
and  when  the  external  conditions  are  unfavourable  recourse  must 
be  had  to  the  heating  apparatus  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air, 
warm  and  dry.  Netting  will  be  necessary  over  the  ventilators 
to  prevent  birds  attacking  the  Cherries. 
FIGS  :  EARLY  FORCED  TREES  IN  POTS.— When  the  first 
crop  on  the  very  early  varieties,  such  as  Early  Violet  and  St. 
John’s,  are  gathered;  return  to  the  treatment  applicable  to  ti'ees 
(Swelling  their  crops.  If  red  spider  has  gained  a  footing  wash  the 
leaves  with  a  solution  of  soluble  paraffin  oil  or  emulsion,  also  the 
wood  where  there  is  any  scale,  dislodging  it  with  a  brush,  syring¬ 
ing  the  trees  forcibly  on  fine  evenings  until  new  growth  is  made 
freely,  ordinarily  syringing  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon. 
Where  the  second  crop  is  thickly  set  thin  liberally,  leaving  the 
fruits  near  the  base  of  the  shoots,  and  to  secure  a  first  crop 
another  year  be  careful  not  to  overtax  the  trees.  Expo-se  the 
fruit  ripening  as  much  as  possible,  and  increase  the  ventilation ; 
thi';  will  be  the  case  with  Brown  Turkey,  which  is  the  finest  of 
all  Figs  for  general  pui-poses,  and  where  the  fruits  for  the  second 
crop  are  thickly  set  thin  them  well,  as  there  is  no  danger  of  the 
trees  casting  their  fruits  after  this  period  if  they  are  well  attended 
to  with  water  and  nourishment.  Stop  the  shoots  at  the  fifth 
or  sixth  leaf,  and  thin  them  where  crowded,  for  vigorous  sturdy 
shoots  produce  the  finest  Figs. 
PLANTED  OFT  TREES. — The  earliest  started  have  the  fruit 
aijproaching  ripeness,  and  must  not  be  wetted,  maintaining 
atmospheric  moisture  by  keeping  the  mulching,  walls  and  paths, 
properly  moistened.  Moisture  can  be  prevented  from  condensing 
on  the  fi'uit  by  maintaining  a  steady  circulation  of  air,  with 
gentle  fire  heat.  Care  must  be  taken  to  afford  plentiful  supplies 
of  water  and  nourishment  at  the  roots.  When  this  is  neglected 
the  trees  become  infested  with  red  spider,  and,  as  a  natural  con¬ 
sequence,  the  ripening  period  is  shortened,  and  the  second  crop 
is  puny,  rusty,  and  unsatisfactory.  Allow  the  leading  shoots  to 
extend,  unless  unduly  vigorous,  without  stopping  until  they  reach 
the  extremity  of  the  trellis,  then  stop  them,  and  cut  away  after 
fruiting  to  make  room  for  succeeding  fruitful  wood. 
LATE  HOUSES. — Excellent  Figs  are  grown  in  unheated 
houses,  producing  one  crop,  which  affords  an  acceptable  supply 
of  fruit  in  August  and  September.  With  the  roots  confined  to 
moderate  space  within  the  house,  the  border  concreted,  and 
thoroughly  drained  with  bricks  and  old  mortar  rubbish,  they 
should  have  very  copious  supplies  of  water,  and  be  syringed  twice 
a  day.  In  cloudy  weather,  however,  the  afternoon  syringing 
should  be  dispensed  with,  and  in  bright  weather  it  may  be  per¬ 
formed  early,  with  all  the  .sun  heat  that  can  be  shut  in  to  insure 
the  proper  drying  of  the  foliage  before  nightfall.  The  young 
growths  in  these  structures  should  be  trained  a  good  distance 
apart,  every  growth  having  full  exposure  to  light  and  air,  so  as 
to  secure  sturdy,  fruitful  wood. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES;  TREES  STARTED  AT 
THE  NEW  A'EAR. — The  very  early  varieties,  such  as  Alexander, 
Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  Cardinal,  Advance,  and 
Early  Rivers  Nectarines  are  ripening  or  ripe,  and  the  trees  must 
not  be  syringed,  otherwise  the  fruit  will  crack,  or  acquire  a  rusty 
appearance  and  a  musty  flavour.  Second  early  varieties,  such  as 
Hales’  Early.  Early  Alfred,  and  Dr.  Hogg  Peaches,  with  Lord 
Napier  and  Darwin  Nectarines,  will  .shortly  commence  ripening, 
when  syringing  the  trees  must  cease  ;  but  moisture  should  be 
maintained  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon,  and  due  supplies  of  water  given  at  the  roots. 
Midseason  kinds,  such  as  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George,  Crimson 
Galande,  Dymond.  Alexandra  Nobles.se,  and  Grosse  Mignonne 
Peaches',  with  Stanwick  Elruge  and  Humboldt  Nectarines  will 
have  completed  the  stoning  process,  and  be  taking  the  last  swell¬ 
ing,  it  not  being  advisable  to  subject  them  to  a  higher  tem- 
peratui’e  until  that  is  insured  than  GOdeg  to  Godeg  by  artificial 
means,  commencing  to  ventilate  at  Godeg,  and  not  allowing  TOdeg 
to  be  exceeded  without  full  ventilation.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as  they 
advance,  removing  superfluous  growths.  Allow  one  fruit  to  each 
square  foot  of  trel!i.s  covered  by  the  trees,  which  will  be  one,  or 
at  mo.st  two,  to  every  shoot  of  last  year.  After  stoning  maintain 
a  good  moisture  in  the  house,  and  water  the  inside  border 
copiously,  mulcliing  the  surface  with  about  2in  of  .short  spent 
manure.  Unless  it  is  desired  to  accelerate  the  ripening,  con¬ 
tinue  GOdeg  to  Godeg  as  the  night  tempei’afure,  and  Godeg  by 
<iay  artificially  in  dull  weather,  and  75deg  with  sun  heat,  closing 
at  the  latter  with  plenty  of  moisture  in  the  house. 
TREES  STARTED  IN  FEBRUARY.— The  fruits  of  these  are 
now  commencing  stoning,  and  .should  have  the  number  reduced, 
leaving  two  on  strong  shoots,  but  one  will  be  sufficient  on  the 
weaker.  Thin  the  shoots  where  crowded.  The  temperature  by 
artificial  means  should  be  kept  at  oSdeg  to  GOdeg  at  night,  and 
GOdeg  to  Godeg  by  day  artificialh'.  ventilating  from  Godeg,  and 
fully  between  TOdeg  and  Todeg.  The  trees  should  be  syringed 
in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  not  allowing  red  spider  to  obtain 
a  footing,  ancl  the  roots  must  be  well  supplied  with  water  and 
nutrition. 
TREES  STARTED  IN  MARCH.— With  the  fruit  swelling 
attention  mu.sd;  be  given  to  thinning,  and  as  it  can  now  be  seen 
which  fruits  have  been  properly  fertilised,  thizi  them  to  two  or 
three  on  .strong  .shoots,  and  proportionately  less  on  weaker 
growths.  Afford  nouri.shing  food  to  weakly  trees  either  as  a  top¬ 
dressing  or  in  liquid  form,  but  vigorous  trees  being  prone  to  oast 
the  fruit  should  have  phosphatic  nourishment  or  water  only. 
Remove  all  superfluous  shoots,  the  remaining  growth.s  l>eing 
trained  to  the  trellis  as  they  advance. 
LATE  HOUSES. — The  crops  in  these  and  unheated  houses  are 
abundant.  A  moderate  syringing  on  fine  mornings  is  a  great 
aid  in  matters  appertaining  to  freedom  from  insect  and  fungoid 
pests,  also  maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  for 
the  health  of  the  trees  and  .swelling  of  the  crops.  In  unheated. 
houses,  however,  there  must  not  be  any  attempt  at  an  afternoon 
syringing  for  the  present,  and  no  sprinkling  izractised  likely  to 
cause  a  moist  atmosphere  at  night.  Ventilate  at  oOdeg,  not 
allowing  an  advance  to' G5deg  without  full  ventilation,  and  close 
at  oOdeg  or  before  if  there  is  a  prospect  of  frost  at  night.  If  water 
be  necessary,  apply  it  sufficiently  early  in  the  day  to  allow  of  the 
surface  becoming  fairly  diy  before  closing  time.  This  is  impor¬ 
tant,  as  foliage  is  more  seriously  affected  by  cold  when  wet  than 
dry. — St.  Albans. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
CACTUS  DAHLIAS  ILLUSTRATED.— The  varieties  of 
Dahlias  portrayed  on  three  of  our  pages  this  week  (by  the  kindne.ss 
of  Messrs.  James  Strsdwick  and  Son,  of  SilverhilL  Nursery,  St. 
Leonards-on-Sea),  are  described  in  the  article  on  New  Cactus 
Dahlias,  page  424. 
DATES  OF  FLOWERING  FORCED  BULBS  (J.  H.  S.).— 
The  .subject  is  one  more  a  matter  of  judgment  than  of  particular 
varieties  flowering  naturally  at  a  given  time.  Early  White  Roman 
Hyacinths,  if  planted  early  in  September,  and  gently  forced,  will 
bloom  in  November,  or  their  flowering  may’  be  retarded  till 
Christmas  or  later  by  keeping  in  a  cool  place.  Straw  coloured 
French  Hyacinths  are  later  flowering  than  the  Early  White 
Roman,  and  are  of  a  beautiful  clear  pale  yellow  colour,  largely 
grown  for  marketing  purposes.  Single  Blue  Roman  Hyacinths, 
also  Single  White  Italian  and  Double  Rose  Italian  Hyacinths 
bloom  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  than  the  Early  Roman, 
but  they  are  not  freo  flowering  or  effectiv'e,  and  not  recommended. 
Named  Hyacinths  for  early  forcing  are  specially  selected  for  their 
early  flowering,  and  of  the  single  red  may  be  mentioned  Baron 
Van  Tuyll,  Marie  Correlia,  Norma,  and  Splendour.  Of  Single 
W’^hite  Hyacinths  Blanoliard,  Grand  Vidette,  Prinoe,ss  Beatrice, 
with  La  tour  de  Auvergne.  Of  Single  Blue  Hyacinths,  General 
Pelissier,  Grande  Vidette,  and  William  I.  The.se  should  be  potted 
at  the  end  of  September,  and  cannot  be  relied  on  to  bloom  satis¬ 
factorily  before  the  middle  of  February.  Polyanthus  Narcissus, 
Early  Paper  White,  Early  .Snowflake,  and  Early  Double  Roman, 
potted  in  September,  and  gently  forced  may  be  had  in  flower  by 
Christmas,  and  the  other  varieties  will  follow  from  the  early 
part  of  February  by  gentle  forcing.  Similar  remarks  apply  to  the 
early  varieties  of  Daffodils.  Of  Tulips  the  Due  ^  an  Thol  in 
crimson,  rose,  scarlet,  striped  white  and  yellow  varieties  are  un¬ 
surpassed  for  early  forcing,  with  Canarv'  Bird  and  Vermilion 
Brilliant,  Double  Due  Van  Tliol,  Double  Tournesol  and  Yellow 
Tournesol  are  also  excellent.  Other  good  forcers  are  :  King  of 
the  Yellows,  L’lmmaculee,  Pottebakker,  white  and  yellow  vars. 
The  bulbs  should  be  potted  early  in  autumn,  and  had  well  rooted 
before  subjecting  to  heat.  This  applying  also  to  Hyacinths  and 
Narcissus.  We  are  not  aware  of  any  satisfies  with  times  ot 
flowering  of  the  bulbs  under  forcing  conditions,  for  this,  as  bmore 
stated,  depends  much  on  circumstances  and  particular  dates.  Only 
a  fortnight  between  are  niceties  not  even  considered  by  market 
growers,  as  it  is  a  question  of  introducing  batches  and  bringing 
forward  gently  at  different  dates,  and  selecting  varieties  suitable 
for  pot  work,  such  varieties  as  King  of  the  Yellow  in  Tulips  being 
always  reliable. 
