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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  21,  1903. 
Frnit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. — In  these  days  of  go-as-fast-as-possible 
hi’eak-neck  system  of  culture,  with  its  concomitant  frequent 
breakdowns  from  attacks  of  eelworms,  root  mites  and  white 
wormis,  sleeping,  gumming,  and  leaf-spotting  diseases,  it  may 
appear  retrograde  to  advise  the  renovation  of  old  plants  that 
have  been  in  bearing  some  time,  especially  when  they  have  been 
cropped  within  an  inch  of  their  lives.  But  if  the  plants  have 
been  grown  on  the  old  and  rational  system  of  “  health,  the  first 
wealth  ”  principle,  there  is  no  reason  why  fairly  vigorous  plants 
may  not  be  kept  in  satisfactory  bearing  a  time  longer  by  remov¬ 
ing  some  of  the  old  soil  carefully  with  a  hand  fork,  and  supplying 
in  its  place  lumpy  loam  stacked  sufficiently  long  to  destroy  the 
herbage  and  its  roots,  afterwards  surfacing  with  decayed  manure, 
and  afterwards  sprinkling  on  it  a  couple  of  handifuls  per  square 
yard  of  a  mixture  of  air-slaked  lime  and  .soot  in  equal  proportions 
by  measure,  giving  a  good  soaking  of  tepid  water.  This  will 
afford  such  amounts  of  the  essential  elements  and  minor  con¬ 
stituents  of  Cucumbers,  to  which  the  plants  are  little  accustomed 
in  these  go-ahead  times,  that  they  will  recover  from  the  lethargy 
of  continuous  bearing,  and  make  young  growths  bearing  fruit 
abundantly.  Then  it  is  only  a  question  of  feeding — the  supply¬ 
ing  of  phosphatic  and  potassic  elements,  with  nitrogenic,  to 
in.sure  their  utilisation,  say  pho.sphate  of  potash  and  nitrate  of 
.soda  in  equal  proportions  and  in  liquid  form  at  the  rate  of  ioz 
of  the  mixture  per  gallon  of  water.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
plants  are  on  their  last  legs,  worn  out  by  overbearing,  devoured 
by  red  spider  or  thrips,  cankered  on  the  stem,  and  altogether 
“  out  of  sorts,”  then  by  all  means  clear  them  out  of  the  way, 
cleanse  the  house,  take  out  the  old  soil,  place  in  fresh  and  sound, 
and  plant  as  soon  as  possible  wnth  young  healthy  plants  just 
coming  into  bearing  in  order  to  save  time.  In  the  matter  of 
plants  of  the  recent  raising  it  will  be  necessary  to  thin  out  the 
old  growths  and  encourage  young  in  their  place.  Shade  from 
powerful  sun,  syringe  both  ways  in  the  morning  and  early  after¬ 
noon,  damping  well  down  before  nightfall.  Admit  a  little  air  at 
75deg,  increasing  it  with  the  advancing  sun,  keeping  at  Sodeg  to 
90deg  through  the  day  with  .sun,  and  close  early  so  as  to  secure  a 
temperature  of  90deg,  9odeg,  or  even  lOOdeg  well  on  in  the  after¬ 
noon.  Fire  heat  need  only  be  employed  to  prevent  the  night 
temperature  falling  below  60deg  to  Godeg,  and  to  insure  70deg 
to  7odeg  by  day. 
PITS  AND  FRAMES. — Cucumbers  in  these  should  be  venti¬ 
lated  from  7.30  to  8  a.m.  on  fine  mornings,  just  a  little  to  allow 
the  pent-up  moisture  to  escape  and  the  atinosiihere  to  warm 
gradually  with  the  advancing  sun.  In  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day  a  slight  shade  from  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  will  be  beneficial, 
and  keephig  through  the  day  at  Sodeg  to  90deg,  close  so  as  to 
increase  odeg  to  lOdeg  from  sun  heat.  Keep  the  plants  watered 
as  required,  about  twice  a  week  will  be  necessary  in  bright 
weather,  and  damp  overhead  on  fine  afternoons.  Avoid  over¬ 
crowding  the  foliage,  thinning  well,  keeping  up  a  succession  of 
bearing  wood,  removing  bad  leaves,  stopping  one  or, two  joints 
beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  and  avoid  overcropping.  If  straight 
fruits  are  wanted  place  them  in  glasses  or  pieces  of  quarter  inch 
deal,  nailed  together  so  as  to  form  open-ended  troughs  about 
Sin  wide,  which  must  be  slightly  inclined  so  as  not  to  hold  water. 
^  INES :  EARLY  FORCED. — Where  the  Grapes  are  ripe  fire 
beat  will  only  be  needed  to  keep  the  temperature  at  about  GOdeg 
at  night,  ventilating  freely  by  day.  Black  Hamburghs  will  need 
slight  shade,  which  will  also  prevent  amber  coloured  Grapes 
a.ssu,ming  a  brownish  hue.  Damp  the  house  occasionally,  not 
allowing  moisture  to  be  condensed  on  the  berries,  but  dissipate  it 
by  early  ventilation.  A  moderate  extent  of  lateral  growth  should 
be  encouraged,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the  roots  active  and  to  prevent 
the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage,  which  must  be  kept  clean 
and  healthy  as  long  as  po.s.sible.  If  the  principal  leaves  fall  a 
])rey  to  red  spider,  and  there  are  not  laterals  to  utili.se  the  sap, 
it  is  probable  that  the  auxiliai-y  buds  will  be  started  prematurely. 
If  fermenting  materials  have  been  applied  to  the  borders,  a  por¬ 
tion  may  now  be  removed,  leaving  sufficient  for  a  mulch,  and  if 
the  roots  are  active  in  the  lower  part  of  the  material  a  little 
fi'esh  may  be  placed  on  the  surface  to  protect  them  from  the 
atmosphere,  and  impart  a  neat  appearance. 
VINES  STARTED  AT  THE  NEW  YEAR.— The  Grapes  are 
colouring,  and  need  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  until  the 
ripening  approaches  completion,  when  a  drier  atmosphere  is 
advisable,  but  then  moisture  must  not  be  entirely  witlidrawn. 
Free  ventilation  should  be  afforded.  A  circulation  of  warm  air 
contributes  to  good  finish  and  quality.  Thorough  moisture  at  the 
roots  is  necessary,  but  not  an  extensive  supply,  as  a  sodden  sour 
soil  induces  shanking.  A  mulch  of  sweet  material  will  generall.v 
secure  sufficient  moisture  after  the  border  is  made  evenly  moist 
until  the  Grapes  are  ripe.  A  night  temperature  of  Godeg,  70deg 
to  7odeg  by  da.y,  80deg  to  90deg  with  sun  heat  and  full  ventila¬ 
tion,  closing  at  80deg  all  hut  a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the 
house,  will  be  suitable  for  ripening. 
LATE  VINES. — Late  varieties  require  a  night  temperature 
of  Godeg  to  70deg  when  in  flower,  and-80deg  by  day,  with  a  free 
circulation  of  air,  but  not  a  drying  current,  a  genial  atmosphere 
being  maintained  by  damping  the  floor  occasionally.  It  is  almost 
a  necessity  with  the  shy-setting  varieties  to  fertilise  the  bunches. 
Up  to  and  after  flowering  the  night  temperature  should  be  kept 
at  Godeg,  70deg  to  75deg  by  day  artificially,  keeping  at  80deg 
to  Sodeg  or  90deg  through  the  day,  with  moderate  ventilation  in 
bright  weather  and  abundant  air  when  mild.  Remove  duplicate 
bunches,  reserving  the  most  compact,  and  thin  the  berries. 
Recently  started  houses  should  be  forwarded,  seeking  advance¬ 
ment  from  sun  heat,  but  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air,  especially 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day  so  as  to  secure  sturdy  growths  and 
thick  leathery  leaves. — Sx.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
POTATOES. — Potatoes  are  now  coming  freely  through  the 
soil,  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  between  the  rows  must  be  fre¬ 
quently  hoed,  in  order  to  effectually  kill  seedling  weeds,  prior 
to  earthing  up.  This  should  be  done  at  the  first  favourable 
opportunity,  the  best  time  being  when  the  soil  has  dried  after 
a  copious  rain.  The  operation,  however,  should  not  be  prolonged 
in  case  rain  does  not  fall,  as  growth  is  rapid,  and  if  too  far 
advanced  inconvenient  for  hoeing.  In  some  districts  round  the 
present  date  sharp  morning  frosts  are  probable.  It  is  advisable 
to  be  on  guard  against  them.  In  the  case  of  a  valuable  crop  just 
above  the  soil  it  may  be  .saved  by  affording  a  light  sprinkling  of 
dry  litter  over  the  tops,  a  very  thin  covering  sufficing  to  ward  off 
a  destructive  frost. 
BEANS.— Another  sowing,  both  of  Scarlet  Runner  and 
French  Beans,  may  be  made.  First  sowings  often  succumb  to 
wet  and  insects.  In  unfavourable  situations  some  growers  prefer 
to  sow  the  Beans  in  boxes  and  plant  out  the  first  crop.  This  is 
good  practice  with  regard  to  Scarlet  Runners,  but  for  French 
Beans  a  warm,  south  border  should  be  selected  as  a  position  to 
sow,  and  if  one  row  should  fail  sow  another,  as  the  best  results 
follow  with  plants  established  where  they  are  sown.  Fix  the 
stakes  to  Scarlet  Runners  as  soon  as  they  are  well  through  the 
soil.  The  stakes  may  he  of  a  length  between  3ft  and  7ft.  The 
most  productive  rows  are  those  where  the  plants  climb  on 
stakes  of  the  latter  height. 
ONIONS. — Weeds  now  begin  to  grow  freely  between  the 
rows  of  Onions  and  among  the  plants.  Thin  them  out  from  the 
latter  po.sition,  and  use  the  hoe  between  the  lines.  Some  thin¬ 
ning  may  be  done  at  the  .same  time  of  the  seedling  Onions.  The 
spring  planted  Onions  are  now  becoming  well  established,  and 
will  receive  benefit  from  slight  applications  of  soot  or  artificial 
manure.  The  benefits  to  be  derived  are  not  confined  to  inane- 
diate  acceleration  of  growth,  but  steady  progress  afterwards. 
CELERY. — The  seedlings  from  a  second  sowing  of  seed  are  of 
a  sufficiently  sturdy  character  to  be  pricked  out.  This  may  be 
done  on  an  outdoor  bed  of  soil  and  manure,  giving  slight  shade 
and  protection  for  a  short  time,  with  regular  moisture.  Fully 
expose  the  earlier  pricked  out  seedlings  which  are  now  growing 
freely,  and  will  soon  be  ready  for  placing  out  in  the  trenches. 
The  latter  should  be  prepared  on  a  piece  of  undug  ground.  They 
ought  not  to  be  less  tharr  3ft  apart.  Each  trench  may  be  loiir 
wide,  and  not  dug  too  deep.  Work  in  some  good  manure,  inter¬ 
mixing  well  with  the  soil.  Plant  in  single  rows  9in  apart. 
BRUSSELS  SPROUTS.— Where  plants  have  been  prepared, 
and  are  now  strong,  with  ample  roots,  and  can  be  lifted  with 
balls  attached,  they  may  be  transferred  to  permanent  positions 
on  an  open  piece  of  ground.  To  have  strong,  sturdy  plants,  with 
sprouts  firm  and  compact,  they  mn.st  not  be  inserted  thickly 
either  in  or  between  the  rows.  The  rows  should  be  30in  or 
3Gin  apart,  and  the  plants  18in  asunder.  Ground  that  has  been 
recently  dug  ought  to  be  firmed. 
CARROTS. — Thin  Carrots  to  the  final  distance  they  ought 
to  be  if  strong  enough  to  manipulate.  Weeds  must  be  removed, 
as  they  cjuickly  rob  the  soil  of  moisture  and  food.  Hoe  between 
the  plants. 
TOMATOES.— The  plants  for  outdoor  culture  may  be  grown 
steadily  under  cool  conditions  in  an  airy  frame.  If  they  ate  in 
3in  pots  but  little  harm  will  result  from  remaining  in  this  size 
until  planting  out,  so  long  as  they  are  not  seriously  root-bound. 
If  they  are  likely  to  be  so  before  they  are  planted  out,  it  is 
de.sirable  to  afford  them  another  shift.  In  the  meantime,  the 
po.sitions  against  walls,  fences,  or  open  plots  may  be  prepared. 
Work  in.  some  good  turfy  soil  mixed,  with  wood,  ashes  and.  a 
little  bonemeal.  If  the  soil  is  poor,  a  little  decayed  manure 
may;  be  incorporated.  A  good,  start  for  the  plants  is  essential. — 
East  Kent. 
