484 
JOURXAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  June  4,  1903. 
varieties  as  Emperor,  Empress,  Horsfielcli,  and  others  of  the 
great  trumpet  section,  producing  foliage  nearer  resembling 
that  of  Gladiolus  gandavensis  than  of  the  Daffodil  under 
the  “  let-’em-alone  ”  method.  It  goes  without  saying  that 
good  cultivation  iu  a  congenial  soil  is  a  great  factor  in  the 
calculation,  but  it  is  not  everything,  as  may  be  further 
evidenced  in  the  case  of  Anemones  and  Ranunculus,  which, 
if  annually  lifted,  ripened,  and  rested,  attain  a  vigour  of 
growth  and  floriferousness  immeasurably  superior  to  the 
same  roots  left  untouched.  Somewhere  in  France  the  early 
Daffodil,  N.  princeps,  is  thus  specially  prepared  by  some¬ 
body  for  forcing.  It  may  be  a  trade  secret — if  so,  it  was 
given  away,  qualified  by  no  names  being  given  to  the  re¬ 
cipient,  by  a  florist — and  certainly  his  big  batch  of  forced 
princeps,  with  their  wealth  of  blossom,  three  or  four  fine 
blooms  to  a  bulb,  w’as  remarkable  in  comparison  with  one’s 
own  roots  procured  through  the  ordinary  channel. 
Preparation  for  rest  is  of  primary  importance.  All 
plants,  whether  bulbous  or  tuberous  ;  all  plants  grown  for 
fi’uit,  flower,  or  foliage,  whether  it  is  the  Daffodil,  the 
Grape,  the  Peach,  the  Caladium,  or  the  Croton,  require 
attention  to  promote  all  the  functions  of  growth  during  the 
active  period,  and  should  be  assisted  first  in  development 
and  then  in  the  maturation  of  the  season’s  growth  in  order 
to  have  their  proper  rest  at  the  proper  time,  when  they  again 
rise  like  giants  refreshed  to  the  reawakening  of  dormant 
life  another  season.  Stove  and  greenhouse  plants  should 
receive  all  the  benefits  they  can  derive  from  judicious  venti¬ 
lation  and  sunshine,  no  more  shading  being  given  than  is 
absolutely  necessary,  with  assistance  in  the  case  of  tropical 
plants  by  fire-  heat  on  sunless  days  and  cold  nights.  Over¬ 
crowding  in  any  shape  or  form  is  an  evil  to  be  avoided, 
and  overcropping,  if  allowed,  is  but  pawning  the  futiu’e  to 
supply  the  present. 
As  a  rule,  far  too  much  wood  is  allowed  to  remain  on 
fruit  bearers  under  glass,  especially  in  the  case  of  Vines  and 
Peaches,  resulting  in  imperfect  maturation,  waste  of  natural 
force,  and  general  devitalisation.  Far  better  to  err  on  the 
side  of  undercropping  and  ample  room,  thus  building  up  a 
reserve  fund  of  energy,  entailing  future  safety  with  ultimate 
and  continued  success.  Surely  if  only  from  a  labour-saving 
point  of  view  these  thickets  of  woody  growth  so  frequently 
seen  in  the  fruit-  department,  both  indoors  and  outdoors, 
and  which  eventually  give  so  much  trouble  in  removing, 
and  regulating  attenuated  and  unrestful  growth  later  on,  is 
a  consideration  Avorthy  of  tintely  regard ;  and  Avhen  the 
enormous  amount  of  Avasted  energy  is  taken  into  account, 
Avith  the  resultant  mediocrity  that  even  the  veriest  tyro  in 
gardening  cannot  fail  to  observe,  such  matters  should  be 
considered  of  the  first  moment.  A  season  of  good  healthj' 
gi’OAvth,  and  a  season  of  perfect  rest,  is  a  natural  law^  Avhich 
may  not  be  infringed  AAuth  impunity. — A.  N.  Oldhead. 
Tuberous  Begonias  for  Beds. 
The  tuberous  section  of  Begonias  are  plants  well  adapted  for 
producing  a  shoAvy  effect  in  floAver  beds,  and  by  many  are  con¬ 
sidered  superior  to  Zonal  Pelargoniums.  They  perhaps  do  not 
take  so  kindly  to  the  hot  Aveather  early  in  the  season  as  do  the 
jnore  popular  Zonals  at  that  season  ;  but  Avhen  once  established  in 
good  soil  they  are  not  lacking  in  ability  to  make  a  good  display, 
and  it  is  certain  that  in  moist  Aveather  and  in  the  autumn  until 
frosts  occur  the  Begonia  more  than  holds  its  OAvn  as  a  Aveather-re- 
sisting  plant,  both  in  foliage  and  floAver.  June  is  the  best  month 
to  plant  the  tubers,  Avhich  are  best  if  tAvo  years  old,  as  these  jiro- 
duce  stronger  groAvth,  and  consecfuently  finer  blooms,  as  Avell 
as  more  numerous.  A  Avord  may  be  said  on  the  advisability  of 
securing  tubers  that  have  been  started  gradually  into  groAvth  in 
April,  and  have  continued  to  steadily  develop  under  cool  and  airy 
conditions  during  the  month  of  May,  affording,  of  course, 
adequate  protection  during  the  prevalence  of  cold  periods.  The 
end  of  the  month  will  be  soon  enough  to  fully  expose,  first  by  day 
only,  and  then  both  day  and  night.  By  the  end  of  the  hartlening 
period  the  second  Aveek  in  June  Avill  have  arrived,  Avhen  the  plant¬ 
ing  may  be  carried  out. 
It  is  rather  late  to  enter  at  length  into  the  best  methods  of 
starting  the  plants.  Pots,  boxes,  and  frames  are  all  employed, 
but  for  bedding  Begonias  the  frame  treatment  for  fair-sized 
titbers  is  best.  The  smaller  tubers  should  make  some  early  pro¬ 
gress  in  a  moist  temperature  Avhich  entails  some  heat,  but  frames 
are  essential  for  these  subsequently.  As  tuberous  Begonias,  both 
double  and  single  varieties,  require  a  fairly  rich  and  nioist  soil, 
the  preparation  of  the  beds  must,  ere  the  planting  is  carried  out, 
receive  some  attention.  Beds  from  Avhich  spring  floAvering  plants 
have  been  removed  are  invariably  someAA'hat  impoA^erished- and 
dry.  ■  The  AA-ay  to  deal  Avith  these  is  to  dig  them  as  deeply  ^is 
possible,  incorporating  with  the  soil  some  thoroughly  decayed 
manure  and  leaf  soil.  If  the;, soil  is  inclined  to  be  heavy,  .some 
light  potting  soil  and  burnt  refuse  will  improve  it;  AA’hile,  on  the 
other  hand,  light,  sandy,  rather  poor  material  Avill  be  much  iin- 
proved  by  the  addition  of  some  pulverised  old  cow  manure  in 
addition  to  some  leaf  .soil.  The  roots  Avhich  issue  from  the  tubers 
are  fine,  but  numerous,  and  like  something  rich  and  congenial 
into  Avhich  they  can  ramify  and  enjoy  it.  The  beds,  moreover, 
mu.st  be  thoroughly  moist  before  planting,  and  should  the  soil 
turn  up,  as  it  sometimes  does,  dust  dry,  copiously  soak  Avith 
AA-ater  a  feAV  days  before  planting,  so  as  to  bring  the  material  into 
a  healthfully  moi.st  condition. 
The  tubers,  if  started  in  a  light  inoist  medium,  will  have 
formed  a  netAA'ork  of  roots,  and  short-jointed  .stout  groAvths  Avith 
leathery  leaves.  Rai.se  them  carefully  Avith  all  the  material  that 
clings  to  them,  planting  from  Sin  to  1ft  apart,  according  to  the 
size.  Mixed  beds  of  tubers  of  various  colours  are  effective,  so 
also  are  beds  of  one  or  more  colours,  arranged  harmoniously.  The 
singles  have  the  larger  floAvers,  and  should  be  planted  separately 
from  the  doubles  or  semi-doubles.  In  some  cases  they  may  be 
mixed,  and  Avill  give  .satisfactory  result.s.  Water  after  planting, 
and  occasionally  in  dry  AA’eather,  until  established,  when  the- 
plants  Avill  be  little  further  trouble. — E.  D.  S. 
Chinese  Primulas. 
For  indoor  decoration  during  late  AA-inter  and  early  spring  feAV 
plants  can  surpass  single,  double,  and  semi-double  Chinese 
Primulas.  It  is  true  they  are  not  adapted  for  cutting  as  some 
plants  are,  their  floAver.s  being  u.sed  for  room  embellishment,  but 
left  on  the  plants  they  last  a  considerable  time,  Avhile  fresh 
spikes  are  being  continually  produced.  The  present  month  is  am 
excellent  time  to  soaa’  seed,  Avhich  should  be  that  of  a  good  strain,, 
as  it  is  quite  as  easy  to  groAV  good  plants  as  inferior.  A  gentle 
bottom  heat  is  of  the  utmost  service  in  emsuring  germination  and 
assisting  the  seedlings  at  an  early  stage,  and  as  at  this  season  hot¬ 
beds  are  in  use  for  various  purposes  they  may  be  made  use  of,  but. 
failing  such  aid  the  .seed  Avill  germinate  in  a  Avarm  house. 
A  light,  .sandy  compost  should  be  employed,  filling  it  into 
pots  or  pans  well  drained.  Make  the  surface  smooth,  and  give- 
Avater  to  moisten  the  surface,  applying  it  through  a  rosed  can. 
When  drained,  soav  the  seed  evenly,  and  cover  Avith  a  slight 
.sprinkling  of  silA'er  sand.  Place  a  pane  of  glass  OA’er  the  pot  or 
pan,  and  also  shade  Avith  paper  until  germination  takes  place. 
After  this  give  gradual  hardening  treatment,  groAving  in  a  light 
position  to  enable  the  seedlings  to  become  strong  for  the  first 
potting,  'which  may  be  done  when  rough  leaves  form  and  there- 
are  a  fair  amount  of  fibrous  roots.  The  compost  at  tins  stage- 
may  .still  be  light  and  sandy,  similar  to  that  advised  for  seeds. 
Three-inch  pots  may  be  used,  and  three  plants  placed  round  the 
edges  of  each.  DiA’ision  into  single  plants  is  then  ea.sily  effected 
Avhen  they  are  strong  enough  to  pot  singly  ;  2in  pots  AA-ill  be  the 
best  at  that  stage.  Sink  the  plants  Ioaa'  so  as  to  ju.st  coA'er  the 
base  of  the  leaves.  Keep  in  a  confined  temperature  for  a  "^^ek, 
and  then  transfer  to  a  cold  frame  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes.  With 
judicious  treatment  the  plants  aaTII  make  good  headAvay,  and  on 
filling  these  pots  Avith  roots  transfer  to  Sin  pots,  the  coinpost  con¬ 
sisting  of  tAVO  parts  fibrous  loam,  one  part  each  of  leaf  soil  and 
decayed  coaa’  manure,  and  one  part  sih’er  .sand,  Avith  a  little  avoocL 
fishes 
After  potting  replace  in  the  frame,  ,  which  should  be  .  in  a 
shaded  place  if  po.ssible.  If  not  convenient  the,  glass  must  be 
coA’ered  Avith  mats  to  exclude  strong  sunshine,  otherAA’ise  admit 
plenty  of  . light.  At  first  keep  a  little  dose,  but  as  roots  form 
admit  plenty  of  air,  but  doing  so  gradually.  At  the  final  potting, 
some  of  the  stronger  plants,  Avhich  at  the  previous  potting  Avere 
placed  in  3in  pots,  may  be  transferred  to  Gin  instead  ot  qin,  thus 
affording  them  extra  room  to  groAv  and  make  finer  specimens. 
.  One  of  the  most  important  items  in  culture  is  the  supply  ot 
AA’ater.  At  all  times  AA’ater  should  be  given  Avith  caution,  so  as 
not  to  saturate  the  soil  too  much,  but  affording  enough  to  pass 
through  the  soil.  Exception,  of  course,  may  be  neces^aiy  just 
after  neivly  potting,  Avhen  the  compost  is  practically  moi.st 
enough,  and  sprinklings  AA’ill  be  found  quite  sufficient  for  a  time. 
Practice,  good  judgment,  and  discretion  is  necessary. 
WTien  fully  established  in  the  blooming  pots,  full  exposure- 
may  be  given  on  Avarm nights  in  August  and  September.  In  the- 
latter  month  the  frames  containing  the  plants  may  liaA'e  a  south 
aspect ;  preAUOUs  to  that  a  north  aspect  suits  the  plants  best. 
Blooms  often  sIioav  early  on  strong-groAving  plants.  Ihese 
may  be  nipped  out,  as  it  is  Ava.ste  of  force  to  alloAV  thmii  to  develop 
Avhen  the  plants  are  not  required  for  decoration.  On  the  other 
hand,  an  autumn  display  may  be  obtained  by  alloAA  ing  the  blooms 
to  come  foi-ward,  and  Avhere  the  plants  are  plentiful  this  is  ad¬ 
missible.  and  proves,  mseful  for  aiding  the  autumn  dis-play,  thouglv 
it  is,  as  a  rule,  not  needed  Avitli  the  ample  material  supplied  hy 
Aarious  sections  of  Chrysanthemums.-— Dexxis  Gaudiner. 
