488 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  ARB  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
June  4,  1903. 
Seasonable  Cultural  Notes. 
time  should  be  lost  in  getting  the  plants  into  their 
nnal  pots,  much  harm  being  done  by  cramping  the  roots  in  small 
jjots  when  once  these  latter  are  filled.  Chrysanthemums,  no 
matter  for  what  purpose  they  are  grown,  should  never  receive 
a  check  to  their  steady  progress  at  any  stage,  and  to  have  the 
roots  cramped  in  small  pots  at  a  stage  when  growth  is  being 
freely  made,  is  one  of  thei  greatest  mistakes.  Not  only  do  the 
roots  suffer  for  want  of  space  to  extend,  but  they  suffer  also  for 
want  of  water  in  the  centre  of  the  ball  e.wecially,  and  this  is 
ecjually  bad. 
As  to  size  of  pots  for  the  final  potting,  there  really  is  no 
hard  and  fast  rule  as  to  the  diameter.  It  is  very  much  a  ques¬ 
tion  of  convenience  as  to  what  pots  are  in  hand.  For  plants 
intended  to  produce  large  exhibition  blooms  pots  9in  in  diameter 
are  a  useful  size,  or  even  an  inch  larger  will  suffice.  Should, 
however,  there  be  a  stock  in  hand  a  trifle  larger,  they  can  verj’ 
well  be  utilised  by  placing  in  each  two  plants,  always  selecting 
the  same  variety  or  varieties  similar  in  growth,  for  the  reason 
that  when  the  plants  are  in  flower,  if  one  variety  grew  6ft  and 
the  other  half  that  height,  such  pots  would  be  extremely 
awkward  to  arrange.  For  large  specimen  bush  grown  plants  of 
any  ordinary  Japanese  variety,  pots  lOin  in  diameter  afford 
abundant  rooting  space. 
In  the  case  of  pompons  or  single  flowered  varieties,  an  Sin 
or  a  9in  pot  will  produce  a  useful  plant.  Both  of  these  sections 
afford  abundant  opportunity  for  utilising  large  pots  for  two,  or 
even  three  plants  of  the  same  variety.  All  pots  should  be  per¬ 
fectly  drained ;  that  is.  the  crocks  should  be  ample  and  carefully 
placed,  so  as  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  the  roots  becoming 
waterlogged,  which  is  most  detrimental  to  a  satisfactory  issue. 
The  Chrysanthenmin  is  a  moisture  loving  subject,  but  if  the  con¬ 
ditions  of  reception  for  such  are  not  favourable,  the  roots  can 
easily  have  too  much.  In  this  case  growth  is  checked,  and  a  loss 
of  chlorophyll  quickly  takes  place. 
The  compost  employed  is  an  important  item,  but  not  to  the 
extent  that  soine  persons  imagine.  The  after  attention  the 
plants  receive  is  the  salient  point  to  observe.  Still  without 
a  proper  compost  success  is  not  assured.  Sweet  fibry  loam  is 
the  chief  component,  the  richer  the  better  it  is  naturally.  A 
word  in  explanation  of  this  term  may  be  of  service  to  some. 
Loam,  as  generally  recognised  by  gardeners,  is  decayed  turf 
taken  from  a  pasture.  If  the  latter  be  “  down  ”  turf,  purely 
used  as  a  sheep  run  on  chalk  hills,  it  cannot  be  otherwise  than 
extremely  poor,  owing  to  its  want  of  manure.  If  tlxe  turf  wmre 
ta.ken  from  a  wmll  managed  pasture — one  that  is  constantly  fed 
with  cattle  and  manured  occasionally — the  turf  must  be  con¬ 
siderably  richer,  and  when  decayed  containing  more  stimu¬ 
lating  food  than  that  taken  from  a  different  site.  Three  parts 
fibry  loam  to  one  of  half-decayed  horse  manure,  with  a  free 
admixture  of  wood  ashes,  charcoal,  and  sharp  silver  sand  added 
to  keep  thei  whole  porous,  according  to  the  state  of  the  loam, 
heavy  or  light.  To  this  compost  add  Thomson’s  Vine  manure 
at  the  rate  of  31b  to  every  bushel  of  the  compost.  Use  the 
latter  as  roughly  as  possible,  retaining  every  particle  of  fibre. 
The  soil  should  be  moist  at  the  time  of  using.  Cover  the 
di-ainage  with  some  of  the  rougher  portions  of  the  compost  to 
prevent  the  fine  soil  washing  down  among  the  crocks  and  thus 
choking  the  water  passage.  Pot  firmly.  This  is  of  much  more 
importance  than  on  the  face  of  it  may  seem  necessary. 
The  quality  of  the  blooms  consists  in  the  depth,  and  especi¬ 
ally  their  solidity;  therefore,  to  obtain  such  a  desirable  end 
the  plants  must  be  encouraged  to  mature  their  wmod  as  growth 
proceeds.  Deep  solid  blossoms  cannot  be  procured  from  imma¬ 
ture  growth,  and  the  first  step  to  procure  the  desirable  result  is 
firm  potting.  Leave  ample  space,  l^in  at  the  top,  for  wmter  and 
a  top-dressing  later  on.  Before  placing  the  plant  in  the  fresh 
pot  see  that  its  roots  are  thoroughly  moist  right  through.  If 
any  doubt  exists  in  the  mind  of  the  potter,  stand  the  plants  in 
a  pail  of  water  beforehand  for  some  time,  tO’  enable  the  middle 
of  the  ball  to  be  thoroughly  moistened.  This  cannot  be  done 
after  potting  sO'  easily  wdthout  too  much  saturation  of  the  new 
soil,  which  is  not  advisable  at  first. 
After  potting,  it  is  w'ell  to  stand  the  plants  at  once  in  their 
summer  ((uarters,  or  for  convenience,  perhaps,  close  together 
in  a  block  for  a  time.  The  best  position  should  be  chosen  for 
the  plants  to  make  their  growth  in,  as  upon  this  so  much  depends 
their  ultimate  end.  An  open,  sunny  position,  secure,  if  possible, 
from  south-west  gales  of  wind,  and  away  from  overhanging  trees, 
sjioffld  be  selected.  Ample  light  and  space  is  an  absolute  neces¬ 
sity,  bearing  in  mind  my  previous  instruction  as  to  a  regular 
maturity  of  grO'Wth.  It  is  useless  to  think  of  ripening  the 
growth  in  any  given  space  of  time  by  apijlying  heat  after  the 
plants  are  housed  or  by  withholding  water.  Such  growth  as  is 
required  must  be  built  up  from  the  start  by  proper  treatment. 
This  providing  of  suitable  Cjuarters  is  one  of  the  chief  points  to 
observe. 
No  site  is  better  for  the  summer  cjuarters  than  the  placing 
of  plants  on  each  side  of  a  path  in  the  kitchen  garden  running 
north  and  south,  or  one  row  on  an  eastern  or  a  western  path. 
Any  open  site  will  suffice  where  the  shade  from  one  row  of  plants 
is  not  thrown  across  those  of  its  neighbour. 
For  the  present  one  stake  to  each  plant  will  suffice  to  support 
it  from  injurj'  by  wind  or  birds  alighting  on  the  points.  For  the 
first  week  after  potting  little  water  will  be  required,  the  soil 
being  moist  and  the  roots  thoroughly  soaked  at  potting  time. 
If  the  plants  are  syringed  twice  daily,  little  more  will  be  needed 
until  the  roots  are  running  freely  in  the  new  soil,  when  more 
will  be  recpiired  Any  plants  that  cannot  be  repotted  for  some 
reason  or  other  should  be  liberally  supplied  with  liquid  manure 
in  a  weak  state,  to  sustain  the  growth  until  they  can  be  shifted 
on  into  their  final  flowering  pots. 
Previous  to  potting  the  bush  plants,  if  extra  large  specimens 
are  required,  top  all  the  shoots,  to  induce  them  to  increase  in 
number.  If  this  is  done  a  week  or  ten  days  before  potting,  the 
plants  will  have  started  into  new'  growth,  and  with  the  added 
rooting  space  will  push  rapidly  onw'ards. 
Now  is  a  good  time  to  insert  cuttings  of  new  or  scarce 
varieties,  with  a  view  of  obtaining  plants  from  1ft  to  3ft  high, 
carrying  one  large  bloom,  wdiich  are  as  useful  for  room  decora¬ 
tion  as  they  are  for  “facing”  groups  in  the  autumn.  Another 
point,  too,  that  is  worth  observing  about  these  May  struck 
plants  is  that  they  produce  cuttings  next  autumn  so  much  more 
freely  than  the  ordinary  specimen  plants  Avhich  have  been  so 
highly  fed.  Any  clean  cutting  taken  from  the  base  of  the  plant 
or  from  main  .stems  or  side  shoots  Avill  readily  strike  roots  if 
inserted  in  a  close  frame,  kept  moist,  and  shaded  for  a  time. 
Transfer  these  plants  finally  into  5in  and  Gin  pots,  give  them 
an  open  position  out  of  doors,  and  allow  the  growdh  of  one  stem 
to  extend  uninterruptedly,  finally  giving  one  bloom. — 
E.  Molyneux. 
Cactus  Dahlias  in  Tasmania. 
At  the  Launceston  Horticultural  Society’s  show,  held  on 
February'  19  last,  there  was  the  finest  display  of  Cactus  Dahlias 
ever  exhibited  in  Northern  Tasmania.  Competition  was  large 
and  keen,  ancl  many  beautiful  blooms  were  staged.  The  most 
noticeable  were  Ajax,  Charles  Woodbridge,  Viscountess^  Sher- 
brook,  Mary  Service,  Mrs.  Carter  Page,  Rosine,  Mayor  Weston, 
Eileen  Paliser,  Mrs.  Winstanley,  Galliard,  Lyric,  Zephyr,  Lord 
Roberts,  Khaki,  Alpha,  Florence,  J.  W.  Wilkinson,  Stella, 
Floradora,  and  Jealousy.  Messrs.  James  Stredwick  and  Son, 
St.  Leonards-on-Sea,  again  kindly  offered  a  special  prize  for 
eighteen  blooms,  which  was  very  keenly  com]>eted  for.  The 
Cactus  Dahlias  are  quite  taking  the  place  of  the  Show'  and  Fancy 
here.  Only  one  stand  of  Show  Avere  sta.ged ;  but  they  Avere  of 
excellent  form. 
Our  climate  is  admirably  suited  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
Dalilia,  it  being  much  cooler  than  any  of  the  other  Australian 
States.  The  season  is  a  long  one ;  plants  can  be  got  to  bloom 
from  December  until  the  end  of  April,  Avhen  the  frosts  usually 
appear.  Of  the  late  varieties  I  have  seen  I  like  Mrs.  E.  Mawley 
best.  It  is  a  beautiful  floAver,  quite  the  be,st.  yellow.  I  saAV  a 
plant  flowering  for  the  first  time,  on  Avhich  Avere  tAvelve  blooms, 
that  Avould  not  have  disgraced  any  shoAv  board.  Mrs.  J.  J. 
Crowe  has  been  rather  disappointing  here  this  .season.  Clara  G. 
StredAvick  is  very  graceful  and  pretty ;  Goldfinch  is  A'ery  pretty, 
but  late;  Florence  is  a  constant  bloomer,  and  I  think  Avill 
become  popular  ;•  Khaki,  to  my  mind,  is  rather  coarse,  and  has 
short  footstalks :  Alpha  is  sure  to  become  a  favourite,  becairse 
of  its  colour.  Richard  Dean  I  must  not  forget  to  mention. 
The  plant  has  a  splendid  habit,  and  the  blooms  are  vei-y  striking, 
and  I  think  Avell  Avorthy  of  the  name  it  bears.  Aunt  Chloe  is  a 
refined  flower,  but  I  like  Uncle  Tom  better.  Lord  Roberts 
blooms  freely,  and  is  a  great  favourite.— H.  F.  R. 
[Along  Avith  his  notes,  our.  correspondent  sent  tAVo  news¬ 
papers — “  The  Austral  CTilturist  ”  and  “  The  Daily  Telegraph  ” 
(Launceston) — containing  reports  of  the  Dahlia  exhibition.  In 
an  accompanying  letter  this  interesting  reminder  occurs :  “  The 
Dahlias  have' nearly  had  their  day  (February)  for  this  year,  and 
the  Mums  are  noAv  in  their  prime...  I  saAv  some  loA'ely  bloonis  of 
Nellie  Pockett  on  Sunday  last.”— Ed.] 
