June  11,  1903J 
'  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
523 
freely,  according  to  the  weather.  Their  next  shift  will  be  the 
Sin  pot,  and  from  that  to  the  Gin,  using  rougher  compost  than 
the  first,  with  a  little  decayed  manure.  Take  them  back  to  the 
frame  and  keep  shaded  fi’om  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  Always 
maintain  the  frame  moist  and  well  ventilated  to  avoid  green 
fly,  which  is  one  of  their  worst  enemies.  Never  allow  the  plants 
to  get  pot-bound  while  in  their  growing  stages,  or  they  will  be 
checked.  They  may  be  kept  in  a  cold  frame  until  November 
or  longer  if  desired,  but  on  no  account  let  the  frost  catch  them, 
as  they  are  apt  to  lose  many  leaves. — T.  W.  A. 
Tree  Carnations. 
January  is  the  best  time  to  start  propagating.  Get  a  nice 
light  compost  of  three  parts  leaf  mould,  a  little  fine  loam,  and 
silver  .sand.  When  the  cuttings  are  ready,  place  seven  or  eight 
round  the  side  of  the  CO-side  pots  and  water  them,  placing  them 
in  a  propagating  frame  in  cocoa-nut  fibre.  Spray  them  over  two 
or  three  times  a  day.  After  they  have  rooted,  take  them  out  of 
the  frame  and  place  them  in  a  warm  pit  for  a  week  and  then  pot 
off  singly  into  .sixties,  using  a  similar  compost,  still  keeping  them 
close,  and  syringe  two  or  three  times  a  day,  according  to  the 
weather. 
After  they  have  filled  these  pots  with  roots,  give  them  a  shift 
into  Sin  pots,  using  -a,  compost  of  rough  fibrous  loam,  peat,  leaf 
mould,  and  silver  .sand.  Keep  them  cooler  after  they  have  rooted 
through,  shading  them  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  the 
temperature  being.  oOdeg  by  night,  and  SSdeg  by  day.  Look  over 
them  two  or  three  times  a  day  for  watering  during  hot  weather, 
but  never  water  until  necessary.  The  next  shift  Avill  be  into  the 
final  pots,  using  7in  size.  Be  sure  they  are  clean,  crock  them 
carefully,  and  use  a  compo.st  of  two  parts  fibrous  loam,  two  parts 
peat,  leaf  mould  and  silver  .sand,  a  little  soot,  and  add  a  Tin  pot 
of  Clay’s  fertiliser  to  every  tAvo  barroAvloads  of  soil.  I  har'e  also 
.seen  oyster  shells,  leather  du,st,  and  quarter-inch  bones  employed, 
but  I  think  Clay’s  is  the  best.  See  if  the  plants  need  any  sup¬ 
port,  and  if  .so,  use  small  stakes.  Tin  or  Sin  long,  placing  one  to 
each  plant.  When  potting  be  snre  to  keep  the  ball  AA'ell  up, 
taking  care  not  to  break  it  in  any  Avay.  When  finished,  place 
them  out  of  doors  in  a  good  open  position,  plunging  them  in  ashes. 
Leave  the-m  a  day  or  tAvo  before  Avatering-in.  After  they  hav’e 
filled  the.se  pots  Avith  roots  gKe  them  a  little  artificial  mantire 
occasionally,  .syringe  them  overhead  in  the  eAmnings  as  they 
delight  in  a  little  moisture  after  a  hot  day.  Go  OA’er  them  fi’oni 
time  to  time  and  see  that  they  are  kept  tied.  About  October 
they  AA'ill  have  made  nice  plants,  then  is  the  time  to  put  them 
inside  if  the  AA’eather  is  at  all  un.settled ;  in  fact,  the.v  are  safest 
inside  after  thi.s  time.  Wash  the  house,  and  .see  that  all  is  clean 
before  staging  them.  They  Avill  noAv  take  more  AA’ater  until  the 
days  get  shorter,  and  they  Avill  Avant  .shading  on  bright  days,  also 
plenty  of  top  and  front  A'entilation.  By  November  there  should 
be  a  good  shoAV  of  bloom.  If  there  should  be  any  sign  of  green 
fly  fumigate  them  Avith  XL  All,  being  careful  not  to  use  too 
much  at  one  time;  it  is  better  to  do  it  tAVo  nights  in  succession. 
Should  the  C’arnation  disease  make  an  appearance,  the  best  Avay 
to  check  it  is  by  keeping  a  nice,  Avai’m,  diw  atmosphere.  I  don’t 
knoAv  of  any  cure. — J.  S. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
OUTDOOR  VINKS. — Before  the  side  growths  extend  into 
one  another  it  is  desirable  to  space  out  and  regulate  them,  giving 
those  shoAving  fruit  ample  space,  so  that  the  main  leaves  may 
devmlop  Avell,  and  every  facility  be  ffiAmn  for  the  full  development 
of  the  bunches  also.  Where  more  than  one  of  the  latter  is  shoAv- 
ing  on  a  shoot  it  is  essential  to  remove  the  least  promising.  Also 
stop  the  shoots  at  one  or  tAvo  joints  beyond  the  bunch.  Each 
.spur  may  carry  tAvo  shoots,  of  Avhich  only  one  ought  to  bear  a 
bunch ;  but  if  the  barren  shoot  is  Aveak,  and  the  fruitful  one 
strong,  it  is  not  worth  Avhile  to  retain  the  former.  Di.scretion 
may  be  used,  however,  as  to  whether  they  are  to  be  retained  or 
not.  If  room  is  limited  tO'  lay  the  shoots  in  dispense  Avith  all  but 
the  fruitful  one,  which  should  be  as  close  as  possible  to  the  main 
rod.  If  a.  strong  barren  shoot  happens  to  be  nearer  the  main 
rod  than  a  fruitful  one,  retain  them  both.  Stop  the  fruitless 
one  at  the  .seventh  leaf,  and  the  fruit-bearing  shoot  in  the  usual 
Avay.  Another  class  of  groAvth  requires  to  be  dealt  Avith.  These 
are  shoots  trained  for  future  bearing,  and  to  occupy  vacant  spaces, 
proAung  useful  to  furnish  the  Avail  if  it  is  considered  de.sirable  to 
dispense  Avith  some  of  the  older  rods  at  the  Avinter  pruning.  Such 
groAvths  may  extend  until  they  reach  the  length  of  4ft,  AAdien  stop. 
Further  groAvth,  of  cour.se,  is  alloAved  to  extend  unchecked,  which, 
hcAA'CA^er,  Avill  be  cut  back  in  Avinter,  the  only  ripe  wood  worth 
retaining  being  that  beloAv  the  present  point  of  stopping. 
STRAWBERRIES. — The  chief  matters  needing  attention  at 
the  present  time  are  the  supplying  materials  for  the  fruit  to  rest 
upon  Avhen  ripe,  if  this  has  not  been  done.  It  is  better  to  do  this 
before,  the  fruit  commences  to  colour.  Clean  material  that  does 
not  stick  to  the  fruit  should  be  employed.  Short  or  long  litter 
or  straAv  is  best ;  short  grass  is  the  Avorst,  and  must  neAmr  be  u.sed. 
If  liquid  manure  is  available,  old  beds  bearing  freely  may  be  fed. 
Nets  mu.st  be  got  in  readiness  for  coAmring  the  fruit  when  ripe. 
ESTABLISHED  WALL  TREES. — Room  must  be  found  as  far 
as  possible  without  too  much  croAi  ding  for  a  supply  a  young  wood, 
according  to  the  respective  requirements  of  each  tree,  bearing 
in  mind  that  after  the  fruiting  is  over  some  of  the  older  growths 
may  be  cut  out ;  this  being  especially  the  case  Avith  those  that 
bear  on  annual  shoots.  The  larger  part  of  the  superfluous  shoots 
it  is  necessary  to  remove  may  be  cut  out  entirely.  Shortening 
the  foreright  shoots  of  Apples  and  Pears  AA'ill  be  best  deferred 
several  Aveeks  longer,  thus  alloAving  the  loAter  or  ba.'^al  buds  to 
attain  full  size.  The  thinning  of  the  fruit  should  be  carried  out 
so  that  the  trees  are  not  overburdened  Avith  more  than  they  are 
able  to  perfect ;  besides,  thinned  fruit  is  much  superior  in  size 
and  quality,  and  less  .strain  is  placed  upon  the  tree.‘i.  Moisture 
must  be  supplied  to  the  roots  Avhere  they  are  ramifying  in  dry 
positions,  givung  a  thoroughly  good  supply  of  clear  water,  follow¬ 
ing  Avith  liquid  manure.  A  mulching  of  manure  OA'er  this  aviII 
be  of  great  benefit  in  conserving  the  inoisture.  The  importance 
of  clean  foliage  is  a  factor  in  maintaining  healthy  conditions, 
therefore  a  free,  use  of  the  syringe  or  garden  engine  should  be 
emploved  cluring  the.  time  the  fruit  is  green  and  SAvelling. 
YOUNG  WALL  TREES.— Advancing  young  trees  must 
receiA’e  frequent  attention  in  regulating  groAA'th,  curbing  any 
tendency  to  exuberance  by  the  remOA'al  or  .stopping  of  rampant 
shoots.  Maintaining  a  xn'oper  balance  AA'ill  do  much  toAA'ards  pro¬ 
ducing  a  regular  and  fruitful  condition.  V  ater  if  needed,  but 
aA’oid  using  liquid  manure.  A  mulch  OA'er  the  roots  Avill  be'  bene¬ 
ficial.  Some  manipulation  of  the  shoots  Avill  provide  the  desired 
help  or  check,  but  cutting  back  is  not  ahvays  the.  best  method  of 
effecting  this.  Strong  .shoot.s  it  is  desirable  to  check  may  be 
depressed,  AA'hile  the  AA'eak  may  be  eleA'ated  or  groAAii  more  upright. 
When  an  equal  balance  has  been  thus  secured,  train  them  out  at 
equal  distances.  The  side  shoots  should  be  judiciously  stopped 
as  they  appear  to  need  it.  „ 
BLACKBERRIES  AND  LOGANBERRIES.— These  being 
similar  in  habit  and  groAvth,  identical  treatment  may  be  giA'en. 
A  liberal  mulching  of  manure  should  be  given  OA'er  the  roots,  and 
th^  f^rowth  of  thorouglily  yoll'cstablishod  plants  may  bo  also 
aided  Avith  liquid  manure.  The  extension  of  .strong  shoots  Avill 
necessitate  some  amount  of  regulation,  securing  them  in  an 
orderly  Avay  Aihereby  the  principal  leaves  may  liaA'c  ample  room 
to  receive  light  and  air.  Full  benefits  Avill  thus  be  derived  for  the 
wood,  and  fhe  ripening  process  so  nece.ssary  for  future  bearing 
promoted.  XM  stopping  of  the  long  groAA'ths  must  be  practised. 
RASPBERRIES.— Suckers  from  Raspberry  stools  must  be 
thinned  out,  as  there  are  usually  more  produced  than  it  is  de.sir¬ 
able  to  retain.  The  best  half  dozen  near  the  stool.s  may  bo 
retained,  the  re.st  being  remoA'ed.  unless  some  are  required  for 
stock.  AA'hen  some  Avliich  are  further  aivay  are  the  best. — 
East  Kent. 
