536 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
June  18,  1903. 
and  black  stripe,  soil  sterilisation  is  advised,  or  the  application 
of  a  good  fungicide,  vliilst  for  yellow  spot  and  black  spot  on 
leaves  Bordeaux  mixture  or  copper  compound — an  article  said 
not  to  stain  the  fruit  to  any  appreciable  extent — is  advised,  or 
the  heating  of  the  atmosphere,  first,  I  believe,  advanced  by  Mr, 
Tggulden  in  the  Jouriuil  >if  Horticulture,  to  lOOcleg  or  l‘20deg,  by 
closing  the  ventilators,  is  all  very  well  when  the  weather  is  hot, 
but  how  about  yellow  spot  and  black  spot  when  the  days  are 
dull?  Oh,  it  has  to  be  followed  bj'  spraying  with  good  fungicide 
as  preventive  of  further  attack! 
In  the  matter  of  black  spot  on  the  fruit,  said  to  be  due  to 
Sporocylia  lycopersici  (surely  Cladosporiuni  fulvum  is  meant),  the 
distinction  is  made  between  the  affection  known  as  “  scald  ”  and 
that  caused  by  fungus,  while  the  only  preventive  of  black  spot 
is  to  “tap  the  plant  or  its  support,  and  if  care  is  taken  to  dis¬ 
lodge  the  dead  bloom  from  its  fruit  no  black  spot  will  appear. 
“How,  tlien  can  it  be  of  fungoid  origin?”  The  “tapping”  is 
older  than  I  can  remember,  and  yet  Tomato  fruits  black  spot 
now,  whereas  they  did  not  formerly,  when  the  tapping  was 
practised  to  disperse  the  pollen,  and  the  remains  of  the  bloom 
carefully  removed  from  the  newly-set  fruit.  Black  stripe 
(Macrosporium  lycopersici)  is  propeidy  M.  Tomato,  though  what 
difference  exists  between  it  and  M.  solani  is  clefinable  only 
in  slight  variation  due  to  host,  and  here  said  to  be  one  of  the 
worst  fungoid  diseases  affecting  the  Tomato,  and  originates  in 
the  soil.  This  is  a  clincher  of  the  fungus  being  the  same  as  that 
producing  Potato  leaf  curl  (Macrosporium  solani),  a  disease 
known  for  over  a  century,  and  going  over  with  the  Potato  tuber, 
and  why  not  with  the  Tomato  seed?  Our  author  advises  steam 
sterilisation  of  the  soil  as  preventive,  but  what  about  the  sterili¬ 
sation  of  the  fungal  hj’phse  in  the  seed? 
Insect  pests  matters  refer  to  white  fly  as  the  worst  enemy,  to 
be  overcome  by  Veltha  emulsion,  nothing  being  said  about  sulphur 
fumes  given  off  by  hot  water  pipes  coated  with  .sulphur  and 
heated  to  near  boiling  point.  Green  fly  is  to  be  combated  by  the 
old-fashioned  fumigation,  or  any  good  insecticide  ;  and  as  for  red 
spider,  its  depredations  are  said  to  be  of  rare  occurrence,  never 
having  attacked  the  plants  at  Tuckswood  Farm.  Eelworm,  wire- 
worm,  i^’c.,  are  only  alluded  to  as  sometimes  injurious  to 
Tomatoes,  for  which  .steaming  the  .soil  is  the  best  cure.  Wood- 
lice  are  mentio'ned  as  causing  damage  to  seedlings,  and  an  extra 
strong  insecticide  would  settle  them.  Boiling  water  and  trapping 
seem  not  in  favour,  though  very  old  and  far  better  than  insecti¬ 
cides. 
New  varieties  are  put  forward  as  stronger  and  better  than 
their  deteriorated  parents,  hybridisation  being  alluded  to  as 
essential  to  improvement,  and  the  practical  part  of  the  book 
concludes  with  gathering,  packing,  and  marketing  the  fruit. 
The  remainder  is  devoted  to  experiments  in  cultivation  of  the 
Tomato,  on  the  trials  at  Chiswick,  fertility  of  the  soil,  manures 
and  fertilisers,  preparation  of  soil,  and  again  diseases.  These 
matters  are  very  interesting,  fresh  manure  being  condemned,  and 
rotten  advised,  mixed  rvith  kainit  and  superphosphate.  Indeed, 
this  part  is  replete  with  hints  of  great  import,  and  the  fact  is 
mentioned  of  sleepy  disease  having  its  origin  from  spores,  which 
may  lie  dormant  in  the  soil  when  plants  are  planted,  or  adhering 
to  the  seed  when  sown.  The  disease  cannot  be  cured  when  the 
fungus  becomes  established  in  the  host  plant,  but  a  top-dressing 
of  Veltha  applied  immediately  before  or  after  planting  de.stroys 
the  spores  in  the' soil.  At  the  same  time  a  plant  affected  with 
sleeping  disease  reached  the  editor  recently  from  a  correspon¬ 
dent  who  had  treated  the  soil  with  Veltha. 
Club-root  disease  is  referred  to  Plasmodiophora  ,  a  slime  fungus, 
well  known  as  affecting  Cruciferae,  but  I  have  yet  to  see  an 
example  on  either  Cucumbers  or  Tomatoes,  all  clubbing  of  these 
in  the  many  hundreds  of  .specimens  I  have  examined  for  the 
Journal  of  Horticulture  being  caused  by  eelworms.  I  should 
very  much  like  to  see  a  Tomato  plant  clubbed  by  Plasmodioi^hora, 
and  should  bo  obliged  by  a  specimen  through  the  editor. 
Finally  we  come  to  sterilisation  of  the  soil  by  steam,  both  as 
practised  at  Tuckswood  Farm  and  by  the  American  method. 
Having  repeatedly  advised  heating  tUe  soil  to  212deg,  I  can  com¬ 
mend  the  method.  The  process  not  only  destroys  insect  pests  or 
their  larvae  harbouring  in  the  soil,  and  the  spores  of  fungi  or 
their  mycelium,  but  kills  weeds  and  weed  seeds,  and  renders 
some  of  the  soil  constituents  soluble,  “  so  that  Tomatoes  and 
other  plants  thrive  in  a  remarkable  manner,  and  the  general 
result  is  equal  to  manuring  the  soil,  while  plants  growing  in 
•sterilised  soil  remain  in  a  healthy  condition.”  How  about  the 
nitrifying  micro-organisms?  May  I  mention  that  I  advised 
sterilising  soil  to  a  grower  of  Cucumbers,  and  he  went  to  the 
extent  of  steaming  it  to  steam  point,  killing  the  bacteria  and 
sterilising  the  soil  that  Cucumbers  would  not  grow  in  it  ?  A 
temperature  of  ISOdeg  is  enough,  and  probably  a  safe  maximum, 
but  the  subject  is  only  in  its  infancy,  and  requires  care  and 
exercise  of  no  little  judgment.  The  process  is  clearly  set  forth  in 
ihe  little  book,  and  is  accompanied  by  illustrations.  '  Indeed,  the 
work  is  copiously  illu.stratcd,  though  not  anj’  on  diseases  except 
Plasmodiophora,  to  which  I  take  exception  in  toto,  and  about  the 
concluding  chapter  on  Veltha,  I  refrain  from  comment  for  the 
obvious  reason  of  not  having  experience.  I  strongly  commend 
the  v.'ork  as  usefnl  and,  above  all,  suggestive. — G.  Abbey, 
Vegetable  Notes:  Turnips,  . 
Although  this  crop  is  easily  grown  under  some  conditions,  it  is 
generally  well  known  that  when  drought  sets  in  it  is  by  no  means 
an  ea.sy  matter  to  maintain  a  regular  supply  of  tender  roots 
throughout  the  summer  months.  Considei’ing  the  great  esteem 
in  Avhich  this  popular  vegetable  is  held,  it  seems  to  me  that  far 
too  little  attention  is  bestO'Aved  upon  its  culture  in  gardens 
generally.  As  it  is  one  of  those  crops  which  may  be  produced  for 
daily  consumption  throughout  the  year,  and  being  of  quick  growth 
it  may  be  used  as  a  “  catch  crop  ”  for  filling  vacant  spaces  during 
the  groAving  season. 
Turnips  delight  in  a  deep  rich  soil,  inclined  to  be  light  rather 
than  lieaA^y.  If  this  has  been  made  rich  by  the  addition  of  a 
liberal  dressing  of  Avell-decayed  manure  for  the  previous  crop  it 
Avill  usually  be  in  good  condition  for  Turnips.  A  good  dressing  of 
soot  at  the  time  of  sowing  is,  hoAvever,  ahvays  to  be  recom¬ 
mended,  and  for  the  spring  soavu  crop  a  dre.s.sing  of  basic  slag  at 
the  rate  of  four  pounds  per  rod  is  excellent,  because  in  this  case 
the  ground  can  be  prepared  some  time  before  soAving.  For  later 
soAving  the  basic  slag  is  of  far  less  value,  and  superphosphates  cf 
fish  guano  .should  be  used  instead. 
I  should  like  to  see  the  old,  yet  excellent  practice  of  making  a 
soAving  eAmry  three  or  four  Aveeks  throughout  the  season  generally 
adopted  in  small  as  Avell  as  large  gardens,  and  also  on  allotments. 
Earlj'  in  March  is  a  .suitable  time  to  make  the  first  soAving,  and 
from  the  beginning  of  July  to  the  beginning  of  August  ansAvers 
for  the  latest  soAving.  The  plants  from  the  latest  soAving  are 
dependent  to  a  great  extent  upon  the  AA'eather ;  if  it  is  fine  and 
open  during  the  autumn,  moderate  sized  roots  Avill  be  ready  for 
pulling  during  November,  the  Aveaker  iflants  being  left  to  pro¬ 
duce  young  tops  for  spring  use.  In  cold  seasons  the  whole  of  the 
late  soAvn  crops  Avill  be  useful  only  for  supplying  spring  greens. 
From  the  middle  to  the  end  of  June  is  the  most  suitable  time  to 
SOAV  to  pro'vide  roots  during  the  autumn  and  throughout  the 
AA’inter  months. 
Although  soAving  broadcast  is  sometimes  practised,  it  is  pre¬ 
ferable  to  SOAV  in  drills  on  account  of  the  ease  Avith  Avhich  thinning 
can  then  be  done,  and  the  soil  be  kept  constantly  stirred.  The 
roAvs  should  be  about  1ft  apart.  Thin  early  by  passing  a  Gin 
Dutch  hoe  through  the  roAvs  at  regular  intervals ;  this  Avill  leaA'C 
tufts  of  plants  to  be  thinned  by  hand,  .so  as  to  leaA'e  only  one 
plant  to  each  tuft,  these  thus  left  being  generally  about  the  right 
di.stanco  apart — Sin  or  Din. 
When  pulling  for  use  during  summer  it  is  better  to  err  on  the 
side  of  doing  so  too  early  than  too  late,  as  during  hot  Aveather  a 
feAA'  days  is  quite  long  enough  to  make  them  “  stringy,”  and  at 
such  times  it  is  often  advisable  to  pxdl  a  quantity  and  store  in  a 
cool,  moist  cellar  or  .‘•lied  for  a  AA'eek,  rather  than  alloAV  them  to 
remain  in  the  hot  sunshine  and  thus  become  tough. 
The  Turnip  fljq  or  flea  beetle,  does  an  immense  amount  of 
harm  in  this  country,  more  so  in  fields  than  in  gardens,  because 
in  the  former  case  the  land  is  not  generally  so  rich,  nor  is  it 
possible  as  a  rule  to  get  such  a  fine  tilth  as  in  the  garden.  Both 
these  conditions  are  essential  to  quick  groAvth,  and  quick  groAA’th 
is  the  great  point  to  aim  at  to  preAmnt  much  injury  by  the  insect. 
Good  methods  of  pirwention  are  the  folloAving.  Keep  the  soil 
frequently  stirred  Avith  the  hoe  from  the  time  the  young  seed¬ 
lings  appear  until  the  tops  cover  the  soil.  This  not  only  pro¬ 
motes  rapid  groAvth,  but  also'  preA-ents  the  insects  from  sheltering 
among,  and  feeding  upon  Aveeds,  Avhich  they  sometimes  do,  till 
the  Turnips  are  large  enough  to  be  attacked.  As  soon  as  the 
young  plants  haA^e  pushed  through  the  soil,  if  a  AA'cak  solution  of 
softsoap  and  qua.ssia  chips  is  applied  Avith  a  .syringe,  the  fly  Avill, 
to  a  great  extent  be  kept  aAA'ay. 
As  soon  as  an  attack  is  noticed  the  plants  should  be  thinned — 
if  it  has  not  already  been  done — and  a  dressing  of  soot,  nitrate 
cf  soda,  or  guano  be  given  after  a  shoAA'er,  or  if  the  ground  is 
already  moist.  The  soot,  if  not  very  fresh,  may  be  dusted  OA'er 
the  plants;  the  other  manures  must  only'  be  used  betAveen  the 
roAvs.  In  gardens  it  is'  generally  po.ssible  to  apply  the  aboA'e' 
remedies  directly  an  attack  is  noticed,  because  should  the  soil 
be  A^eiy  dry  the  manures  can  be  AA'atered  in.  In  field  culture  one 
must  nece»ssarily  Avait  for  rain  before  applying  manures,  and  in 
the  meantime  the  enemy  plays  havoc  Avith  the  crop.  Under  such 
circumstances  spraying  Avith  the  solution  already  named  Avill  be 
cf  the  greatest  benefit. 
The  folloAving  are  excellent,,  Avell-tfied  Amrieties.  Early. — 
Purple-top,  MAinich,  White  Model,  Early  Milan,  and  Jersey  Lily. 
Maix  C'rop. — Veitch’s  Red  Globe,  '\Vheeler’s  SnoAAball,  and 
Y elloAv  Mousetail . — Onavard . 
Regent’s  Park  Botanic  Gardens. — There  are  ten  plant  houses 
and  some  propagating  pits  in  these  gardens  of  the  R.B.S.  At 
present  thirty-seven  .students  are  engaged,  and  one,  a  young 
lady,  has  recently  gone  to  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kgav,  being  the 
cnly  Avomaj)  gardener  there. 
