22 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  0,  1900. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mlltre  Court  Cbambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Xondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  1o  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  wlio  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  plume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
■Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  he  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  tht 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Unanswered  Queries. — Owing  to  pressure  on  our  space  several 
replies  are  unavoidably  postponed  till  our  next  issue. 
Planting  Box  Edging  (H.  T.  H). — Cuttings  made  of  the  young 
shoots  from  4  to  6  inches  in  length,  inserted  in  a  shady  place  in  August 
or  September,  root  readily.  Slips,  however,  do  not  root  so  freely,  and 
it  is  desirable  for  edging  that  each  piece  of  Box  have  roots,  so  as  to 
form  uneven  edging.  If  you  use  slips  plant  them  firmly  in  September 
during  moist  weather,  leaving  only  a  little  of  the  green  part  above 
ground. 
Tomato  Leaves  Curling  (A.  A.  T.).— The  midribs  and  veins  of  the 
leaflets  are  browned  as  if  rusted,  but  we  failed  to  discover  any  insect  or 
fungoid  pest,  and  can  only  attribute  the  curling  to  some  corrosive 
substance  which  has  settled  along  the  sides  of  the  midribs  and  veins,  thus 
affecting  those  parts  more  than  other  portions  of  the  leaves.  The 
raising  of  the  temperature  to  100°  on  two  occasions  would  not  affect 
the  midribs  in  the  manner  presented,  scorching,  if  any,  occurring  on 
the  thinner  portions  of  the  leaves.  The  top-dressing  of  artificial 
manures  could  no  no  harm  unless  applied  excessively.  Possibly  the 
emulsion  applied  to  the  leafage  has  been  too  strong,  the  foliage  of  the 
Tomato,  from  its  hairy  nature,  being  very  susceptible  to  injury. 
Figs  Cracking  {W.  M.  M.,  Ross-shire). — The  fruits  were  almost  all 
to  a  mouldy  pulp,  but  the  names  are  probably  correct.  We  consider 
they  were  too  ripe  for  travelling,  and  this  accounts  for  the  complaints 
of  not  carrying  well.  The  fruits  for  travelling  should  be  gathered  when 
somewhat  under-ripe,  then,  carefully  packed,  they  have  a  chance  of 
arriving  at  their  destination  in  good  condition.  Cracking  is  usually 
induced  by  a  somewhat  vigorous  habit  of  the  trees,  and  is  accelerated 
by  the  maintaining  cf  a  rather  close  and  moist  atmosphere  at  the  time 
of  ripening.  In  such  cases  it  is  advisable  to  somewhat  lessen  the 
supplies  of  water  during  the  ripening  process,  and  withhold  water  alto¬ 
gether  from  the  fruit.  Damping  may  occasionally  be  practised,  but 
then  it  should  be  with  air,  and  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot- water  pipes. 
In  the  case  of  trees  having  an  unlimited  run  of  border  it  is  sometimes 
advisable  to  have  recourse  to  root-pruning,  with  a  view  to  check  over- 
luxuriance,  and  to  reduce  the  tendency  to  cracking  in  the  fruit. 
Koses  not  Satisfactory  (Amateur). — If  the  strong  growths  of  Belle 
Lyonnaise  are  trained  thinly — that  is,  so  that  the  leaves  of  one  do  not 
overlap  the  other,  nor  those  of  any  other  shoots,  the  wood  will  in  all 
probability  ripen,  and  flowers  follow  next  year  if  the  shoots  are  not 
shortened  beyond  removing  the  soft  green  tips.  If  you  have  a  sufficient 
number  of  medium  yet  not  weak  shoots  for  covering  the  space,  the 
very  luxuriant  may  be  removed  in  their  favour.  This  is  not  one  of  the 
most  floriferous  Roses,  but  produces  beautiful  blooms,  when  somewhat 
strong  shoots  are  thinly  disposed  for  the  maturation  of  the  wood.  The 
best  course  to  adopt  for  inducing  the  Marechal  Niel  to  bloom  freely  is 
to  cut  out  weak  parts  and  thin  shoots,  and  secure  the  stronger  growths 
thinly  as  above  advised.  Your  tree  ought  to  have  been  cut  back 
sooner,  and  we  are  not  sure  that  the  young  growths  would  have  time  to 
ripen  for  flowering  next  year  if  it  were  cut  down  now.  If  there  are 
several  stems  near  the  ground  some  of  them  might,  perhaps  be 
shortened,  and  yet  leave  sufficient  growths  for  the  wall  above  ;  as  a 
rule  these  are  greatly  overcrowded. 
Stephanotis  not  Flowering  (5.  H.  0.). — There  are  forms  of  this 
plant  that  do  not  flower  freely,  though  making  plenty  of  wood  and 
being  perfectly  clean  and  healthy.  In  some  cases,  however,  the  plants 
do  not  flower  because  the  growth  is  made  under  a  shaded  roof  or  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  glass.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  supply 
water  too  liberally  whilst  growth  is  being  made,  or  indeed  at  any  time, 
as  flowering  largely  depends  on  a  sturdy,  thoroughly  soldified  habit, 
with  a  good  season  of  rest  during  the  winter. 
Collection  of  Hardy  Herbaceous  Flowers  (J.  P.  S.). — Iceland  Poppies 
and  Liliums  would  certainly  be  admissible,  also  Sweet  Williams,  but 
we  do  not  consider  blue  Cornflower  and  Sweet  Peas  would  be  allowed, 
as  they  are  annuals.  The  term  herbaceous  applies  to  perennials, 
whether  evergreen  or  deciduous,  and  this  embraces  bulbous  plants, 
though  they  may  be  excluded  when  a  class  is  provided  in  the  schedule 
for  them. 
Apples  Eaten  by  insects  (Loughgall). — The  Apples  are  eaten  by 
some  insect  or  its  larvae,  but  in  the  absence  of  specimens  we  are 
u'lable  to  give  its  name.  The  remedy  would  have  been  to  spray  the 
trees  with  Paris  green,  1  oz.  to  20  gallons  of  water,  and  it  may  be  done 
now  to  prevent  further  mischief,  though  it  is  rather  late,  as  the  poison 
will  get  washed  off  by  rains.  The  Paris  green  mixture  must  not  be  used 
over  anything  shortly  required  for  use  by  either  men  or  animals,  as  it  is 
very  poisonous. 
Growths  of  Vines  Browned  (B.  M.  D.). — The  leaves  are  affected  by 
what  is  known  as  browning  or  “  brunure,”  which  practic  illy  arises 
from  some  constitutional  peculiarity,  and  is  rather  peculiar  in  confining 
its  attacks  to  young  Vines,  or,  rather,  the  tender  growths.  It  probably 
results  from  an  excess  of  organic  matter  in  the  soil  and  a  deficiency  of 
lime.  A  dressing  of  air-slaked  lime  and  soot  in  equal  parts,  mixed  and 
applied  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pound  per  square  yard,  pointing  in  very 
lightly,  has  a  beneficial  effect,  the  Vines  generally  growing  out  of  the 
disease.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  dust  the  foliage  by  means  of  a  bellows 
apparatus  with  a  powder  formed  of  equal  parts  of  freshly  burned  lime 
slaked  with  the  smallest  quantity  of  water  necessary  to  ca'ise  it  to  fall 
to  an  app'-irently  dry  powder,  then  while  hot  adding  flowers  of  sulphur 
and  mixing  thoiouglily.  It  is  a  very  troublesome  ailment,  but  happily 
not  very  common  in  this  country. 
Cultivation  of  Poinsettias  (Constant  Subscriber). — After  Poinsettias 
have  finished  flowering  the  plants  ought  to  be  rested  and  dried  off  in  a 
temperature  cf  45°  or  50°  for  two  or  three  months,  then  either  cut 
down  the  stems  or  start  them  into  growth.  If  the  latter  plan  is 
adopted  take  off  the  side  shoots  with  a  heel  of  old  wood.  Do  this 
before  they  grow  longer  than  3  inches,  and  insert  them  singly  in  2-inch 
pots,  using  flue  sandy  soil,  plunging  in  a  bottom  heat  of  85°.  When 
rooted  well  pot- on  into  4-inch  pots,  using  a  gentle  bottom  heat  to 
establish  them.  Subsequently  pot  into  6- inch  pots  in  a  compost  of 
loam,  leaf  soil,  sand,  and  manure,  and  when  well  established  place  the 
plants  in  a  frame  or  pit,  affording  due  supplies  of  water  and  shade  from 
strong  sun.  House  in  September  in  a  temperature  of  55®,  with  plenty 
'  f  light  and  air.  Increase  to  60°  or  65’  later  on.  When  flower  heads 
appear  feed  with  weak  liquid  manure.  In  propagating  the  old  stems 
1  hese  may  be  cut  down  in  April.  Cut  into  short  lengths  with  two 
joints,  and  insert  in  sandy  soil  in  hotbed.  The  old  plants  after  being 
cut  down  will  break  into  growth  and  should  be  repotted,  treating  them 
afterwards  as  advised  for  cuttings.  The  shoots  of  your  plants  will  now 
he  too  far  advanced  to  form  into  cuttings,  so  your  best  plan  will  be  to 
grow  on  the  plants  as  they  are,  moving  them  into  larger  pots  if 
necessary,  establish  well,  then  transfer  to  frames  until  September. 
They  will  not  be  so  dwarf  as  they  ought,  but  with  good  treatment  will 
prove  useful.  If  you  have  a  suitable  bed  or  border  at  the  foot  of  a 
sunny  back  wall  in  the  stove,  it  would  be  an  excellent  plan  to  plant 
iliem  out,  fl  e  bracts  being  often  produced  in  this  way. 
Imported  Dendrobiums  (D.  T.  E.). — As  soon  as  the  imported  plants 
are  received  they  should  be  carefully  sorted  and  each  kind  placed  by 
i'self,  decaying  and  decayed  pseudo-bulbs  and  roots  being  cut  off  with 
a  sharp  knife,  all  sound  portions  of  both  pseudo-bulbs  and  roots  being 
retained.  They  should  then  be  carefully  washed  all  over,  removing 
decayed  vegetable  matter  from  amongst  the  roots,  and  keeping  a  sharp 
1  lok  out  for  and  removing  all  insects  that  may  be  upon  them.  As  you 
refer  to  Dendrobiums  in  particular,  most  of  the  pieces  may  then  be 
placed  in  as  small  pots  as  possible,  using  clean  pots  and  crocks ;  the 
f  irmer  should  be  about  three  parts  filled  with  the  latter,  using  a  layer  of 
sphagnum  over  all.  The  most  important  point  is  to  keep  the  base  of 
the  pseudo-bulbs  well  elevated  above  the  rim  of  the  pot  from  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  to  3  or  4  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  plants  and 
pots  used.  The  interstices  between  the  roots  and  the  sides  of  the 
pot  may  advantageously  be  filled  with  sphagnum  and  fibry  peat, 
sticks  should  be  placed  firmly  in  the  crocks  to  which  the  plants  can  be 
I  ied  securely.  The  operation  of  potting  being  completed,  the  Dendro¬ 
biums  should  be  placed  in  a  position  where  they  can  have  a  genial 
temperature  of  from  60°  to  70°  (a  higher  temperature  before  new  roots 
are  formed  is  to  be  avoided).  A  mat  or  some  other  material  may  be 
kept  over  them  for  a  few  days  whilst  the  plants  become  inured  to  the 
light,  but  as  the  pseudo-bulbs  “plump  up”  and  the  young  growths  lose 
the  bleached  appearance  the  shading  should  be  gradually  dispensed 
with  until  it  is  only  used  to  prevent  scorching.  A  few  of  the  dwarfest 
species  would  be  better  fixed  on  to  blocks  with  copper  wire,  and  a  little 
moss  placed  about  their  roots,  but  most  of  the  other  species  we  find  to 
do  the  best  when  treated  as  described. 
