50 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  19,  1900. 
Reve  d'Or. 
The  photographic  reproduction  (fig.  11)  represents  this  fine  Kose 
in  its  best  form.  When  properly  treated  no  variety  will  give  a  greater 
profusion  of  charming  orange  yellow  blossoms  from  early  June  until 
checked  by  frost  in  the  autumn.  As  is  well  known  Reve  d’Or  is  a 
vigorous  grower  of  the  Noisette  class,  and  is  adapted  for  rambling  up 
a  pillar,  over  an  arch,  or  to  be  trained  into  an  informal  pyramid.  The 
representation  herewith  is  one  of  six  plants  growing  in  front  of  the 
residence  of  R.  Moss,  Esq.,  Fern  Hill,  Blackwater.  The  plant  is  9  feet 
high,  7  feet  wide  at  5  feet  from  the  base,  and  5  feet  through  at  8  feet 
high.  Eleven  years  since  a  bud  was  inserted  in  an  ordinary  Brier 
stock.  As  is  customary  with  this  variety  the  growth  was  rapid,  but 
as  the  plants  were  pruned  hard  back  every  year  the  blossoms  were  few 
in  numbers.  When  the  present  gardener,  Mr.  W.  Hunt,  took  charge 
four  years  since,  instead  of  cutting  the  previous  year’s  shoots  hard 
back  he  did  not  prune  at  all,  but  simply  tied  in  the  growth,  a  practice 
since  adopted  annually,  and  with  excellent  results.  Copious  supplies 
of  liquid  manure  are  given  to  the  roots  about  twice  during  the  summer, 
which  may  partly  account  for  the  wonderful  vigour  and  floriferousness 
displayed. — E,  Molyneux. 
Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses. 
Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses,  the  best  and  hardiest  Roses  for  beds  and 
borders  in  the  gardens,  are  readily  raised  from  cuttings,  and  they 
invariably  give  satisfaction  when  propagated  in  this  way.  Budding 
on  the  seedling  Brier  is  the  next  best  method  of  propagation.  A  most 
important  point  in  connection  with  Rose  growing  is  the  situation. 
Light,  air,  and  sunshine  are  needed  in  abundance,  but  shelter  must  be 
afforded  from  winds.  A  corner  where  the  morning  and  midday  sun 
can  reach  with  adequate  shelter  from  west,  north,  and  east  winds  will 
be  of  great  advantage. 
Soil  preparation  is  an  important  point,  but  it  is  not  of  much  use  to 
trouble  with  a  naturally  thin,  poor,  gravelly  soil,  as  Roses  will  not 
succeed  in  it.  The  best  plan  if  Roses  are  required  to  be  grown  in 
such  a  situation  is  to  take  out  the  material  2^  feet  deep  and  replace 
with  good  rich,  clayey  loam  if  possible.  Loam  that  is  not  clayey  will 
answer,  but  it  should  be  of  a  rich  character.  Soil  full  of  humic  matter 
or  vegetable  matter  is  well  adapted,  especially  if  it  is  thoroughly 
worked.  Add  to  the  loam  cow  and  horse  manure  mixed  with  bone 
manure,  and  turn  over  two  or  three  times.  Finally  allow  it  to  settle 
down  and  become  naturally  consolidated  before  planting.  November 
is  the  best  month  for  this,  the  soil  being  moist,  w^arm,  and  friable, 
which  will  induce  new  rootlets  to  form,  and  the  plants  will  become 
fairly  established  before  the  advent  of  severe  winter  weather.  Spread 
out  the  roots  in  holes  sufficiently  large  to  take  them  without  cramming. 
If  any  are  bruised  or  injured  cut  them  smoothly,  even  if  it  is  necessary 
to  shorten  considerably.  A  mulching  on  the  ground  over  the  roots 
serves  the  useful  purpose  of  preventing  severe  frost  entering.  Ordinary 
stable  manure  or  peat  moss  litter  answers  well. 
Standard  Roses  must  be  staked  immediately  after  planting,  as  it 
is  not  desirable  the  roots  should  be  disturbed  by  wind.  Partial 
shortening  of  long  shoots  may  be  carried  out  at  planting  time,  but 
the  main  pruning  should  not  be  done  until  March  or  April,  so  as  to 
prevent  early  growth  that  might  be  injured  by  frost.  Pruning 
should  be  practised  with  a  regard  to  the  shape  of  the  plant.  Weakly 
wood  is  best  cut  closely  out,  leaving  ten  or  a  dozen  shoots  at  equal 
distances  apart.  The  finest  blooms  are  produced  by  close  pruning, 
leaving  five  or  six  buds.  Strong  shoots  from  dwarf  Roses  may  be 
pegged  down  for  this  purpose,  leaving  them  longer. 
Another  mulching  may  be  given  in  spring  shortly  after  the  pruning 
is  completed.  Rake  off  first  the  old  winter’s  mulch  along  with  the 
prunings,  and  if  necessary  slightly  point  the  surface.  A  liberal  dressing 
of  half-decayed  cow  or  poultry  manure  mixed  with  sand  or  soil, 
or  a  dressing  of  a  good  general  artihcial  m  anure  will  prove  beneficial. 
It  saves  labour  in  watering  during  drought,  and  in  a  moist  season  the 
virtues  in  the  manure  will  be  readily  washed  into  the  soil,  keeping 
the  plants  healthy  and  robust.  A  mulching  of  some  kind  is  ntcessary 
to  prevent  the  sur  ace  cracking  and  becoming  so  hard  that  it  prevents 
the  admission  of  air.  Mildew  and  green  fly  soon  follow  in  the  event 
of  the  so  1  becoming  dry.  For  these  pests  softsoap,  sulphur,  and 
tobacco  water  are  the  best  remedies,  together  with  breaking  the  surface 
and  moistening  the  soil.  The  attacks  of  the  Rose  grub  must  be 
minimised  by  carefully  searching  for  and  destroying  them,  as  being 
rolled  up  in  the  leaves  they  are  not  readily  reached  by  insecticides. 
Exhibition  Roses  are  freely  disbudded,  the  most  promising  buds 
being  selected,  shading  them  from  very  strong  sunshine  and  heavy 
rain,  at  the  same  time  feeding  the  plants  with  diluted  liquid  from  the 
farmyard.  Sulphate  of  ammonia,  half  an  ounce  to  the  gallon  of  water,, 
increases  the  size  of  the  blooms  and  hastens  development. — Rosarian. 
The  Rose  Garden. 
There  are  few  establishments  of  note,  whether  public  or  private, 
that  do  not  possess  a  Rose  garden.  In  some  it  consists  of  a  few  beds  of 
choice  varieties,  in  others  a  wider  field  is  embraced  by  the  inclusion  of 
numerous  climbing  forms,  and  in  others  the  whole  garden  becomes  a 
Rose  garden,  for  wherever  one  turns  Roses  meet  the  eye  ;  here  a  bed 
of  some  choice  Hybrid  Perpetual,  there  a  mass  of  the  showy  rugosa, 
again  a  graceful  group  of  Crimson  Rambler,  a  clump  of  Penzance 
Briers,  beds  of  Fairy  Roses  and  choice  Teas,  masses  of  showy  species, 
or  pergola  or  arbour  smothered  with  free-flowering  climbers. 
In  such  a  garden  interest  never  wanes,  flowers  being  found  from 
the  end  of  April  until  late  autumn.  It  is  always,  too,  a  source  of 
pleasure  to  pass  from  group  to  group  comparing  the  respective  merits 
of  each,  for  every  one  has  its  own  standard  of  beauty  and  excellence, 
and  each  in  its  own  place  is  the  most  beautiful,  that  beauty  being 
enhanced  by  the  contrast  shown  by  the  respective  sections.  The 
graceful  shoots  of  many  of  the  species  heavily  laden  with  single,- 
delicately  coloured  flowers,  the  perfect  form  and  rich  colour  of  a  La 
France  or  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  the  lovely  blossoms  of  many  of  the 
Teas,  the  graceful  floriferous  shoots  of  Crimson  Rambler,  or  dwarf 
perpetual  flowering  Pompons,  each  and  all  help  to  make  a  rich  and 
ever  interesting  display. 
Although  the  culture  of  anything  like  a  representative  collection 
is  not  within  the  means  of  many  people,  a  very  interesting  stock  may 
be  made  by  growing  a  select  number  of  the  best  from  each  group,  and 
by  so  planting  as  to  make  the  most  of  the  ground  at  disposal.  A  good 
plan  is,  if  a  separate  garden  is  to  be  formed,  to  select  a  sunny,  well 
drained  hollow,  sheltered  at  a  short  distance  by  large  trees.  With 
ground  falling  from  each  side  to  the  middle  much  space  may  be 
gained,  and  more  commanding  positions  found  for  many  plants  by 
terracing  the  side.s,  the  soil  being  kept  in  position  by  tree  roots  and 
large  stones.  By  the  formation  of  bays  in  the  face  ot  the  terrace 
excellent  positions  are  gained  for  groups  of  choice  varieties.  The 
centre  of  the  valley  should  be  grass,  in  which  beds  for  choice  varieties 
might  be  made,  relieved  here  and  there  by  a  bush  of  some  profuse 
flowering  and  free  habited  subject. 
The  best  soil  is  stiff  loam  ;  failing  this  the  ground  should  be  made- 
up  well  before  any  planting  is  done.  In  any  case  the  ground  will 
require  trenching  2  feet  deep.  When  ready  for  planting,  strong 
growing  species  or  varieties  should  be  selected  for  the  uppermost 
terrace,  isolated  groups  being  planted  between  the  back  of  the  terrace- 
.and  the  shelter  trees.  For  this  position  the  following  are  very  useful.. 
R.  moschata,  a  rampant  growing  South  European  species,  reaching  a 
height  of  15  to  20  feet,  and  bearing  large  quantities  of  sweetly  scented 
white  flowers  ;  the  well  known  Polyantha  Rose,  R.  multiflora,  and  its 
semi-double  pink  flowered  hybrid  the  Dawson  Rose ;  the  curious,, 
fragrant  fruited  microphylla  rugosa,  white  and  red  ;  in  a  prominent 
position  Crimson  Rambler,  its  long  shoots  trained  loosely  to  rough 
branches  ;  the  double  form  of  repens,  the  ever  beautiful  canina,  a  group 
ill  the  background  of  Carmine  Pillar  tied  to  long  stakes.  Flora  with 
its  pretty  blush  flowers,  and  hosts  of  others. 
For  a  lower  terrace  the  rugosa  hybrids  are  excellent,  while  quite  a 
number  of  dwarf  growing  species  are  to  be  bad.  Of  the  former 
Blanche  Double  de  Coubert  and  Madame  Geo.  Bruant,  semi-double 
whites,  are  excellent,  growing  2  to  3  feet  high  and  flowering 
very  freely.  Of  reds  Mrs.  Anthony  Waterer  is  a  first-rate  variety. 
The  flowers  are  semi-doable,  deep  red,  and  borne  profusely,  while  of 
fiinks  Souvenir  de  Christophe  Cochet  and  Belle  Poitevine  are  good.. 
Of  species  R.  alpina  red,  hispida  yellow,  altaica  white,  humilis  red, 
and  others  all  growing  about  3  feet  high,  might  be  used. 
For  the  foot  of  the  lowest  terrace  and  for  bays,  we  have  R.  lutea 
and  its  double  variety  Harrisoni,  Austrian  Copper,  with  its  pretty 
bronze  and  golden  blossoms ;  R.  indica  and  its  variety  sanguinea,  the 
many-coloured  single  and  double  varieties  of  the  Scotch  Rose; 
Wichuriana  and  its  numerous  hybrids,  the  pretty  red  flowered  Fellen- 
beig  and  many  others. 
For  the  centre  beds  choice  Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals  might  be 
used,  while  between,  groups  of  Penzance  Briers  would  add  beauty 
and  Iragrance.  In  one  corner  a  rustic  arbour  covered  with  R.  setigera, 
noisettiana,  W.  A.  Richardson,  and  others  would  add  to  the  effect  ; 
while  if  approved,  garlands  could  be  had  by  hanging  loose  chains 
between  pole-!  and  clothing  them  with  such  free  flowering  varieties  as 
Blairi  II.,  Flora,  or  Crimson  Rambler.  For  the  first  year  or  two  a. 
little  shifting  would  doubtless  be  found  necessary,  but  after  that 
thinning  and  working  the  ground  would  be  almost  all  the  work, 
required. — D. 
