60 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  ]9,:1900. 
Vegetables  and  Fruits  out  of  Doors. 
In  the  kitchen  gardens  Peas  and  Strawberries  were  particularly 
good.  The  outdoor  Peach  trees  were  also  set  well  with  fruit,  and  a 
Morello  Cherry  wall  was  a  sheet  of  bloom.  Herbaceous  plants  are 
largely  grown  here,  and  under  the  shadow  of  a  noble  Cedar  of  Lebanon 
near  the  conservatory  a  hardy  fernery  was  observed.  A  mound  covered 
with  Vinca  major  was  pleasing,  and  amidst  the  Ferns  Saxifraga 
crassifolia  had  a  striking  effect.  There  are  two  flower  gardens.  In 
one  of  these  climbing  Roses  rambled  over  an  arbour,  and  pyramids  of 
Crimson  Rambler  rose  from  the  grass.  In  the  second  flower  garden 
below  the  broad  gravel  terrace  the  central  fountain  has  a  mermaid  in 
white  marble.  The  wa’l  of  the  terrace  and  the  newels  of  the  steps  are 
surmounted  at  intervals  by  stone,  while  Gloire  de  Dijon  and  Souvenir 
de  la  Malmaison  Roses  ramble  at  will.  A  14  feet  wall  near  the  house  is 
covered  with  climbing  plants  and  protected  in  severe  weather  by  frigi 
dome  on  rollers,  the  wall  would  be  100  or  more  feet  in  length.  Amongst 
the  large  plants  on  this  waH  were  two  Magnolia  grandiflora,  Buddleia 
globosa,  Garrya  elliptica,  Escallonia  macrantha,  two  lafge  Laurustinus 
full  of  flower,  and  a  fine  plant  of  Spiraea  prunifolia  plena  laden  with 
miniature  white  button  shaped  flowers.  The  pleasure  grounds  are 
extensive  and  beautifully  kept;  there  are  large  clumps  of  hybrid 
Rhododendrons,  and  many  large  blooms,  besides  fine  Conifers. — 
P.  Street. 
• - - 
Layering  Ifaliriaison  Carnations. 
In  order  to  get  strong  plants,  well  established  before  the  winter, 
layering  should  be  performed  as  early  as  possible,  and  w  thout  dnubt 
one  of  the  chief  poiiits  which  contribute  toward  success  in  the  culture 
of  these  popular  flowers  is  to  have  the  soil  well  permeated  with  roots 
by  the  time  the  plants  are  placed  in  their  winter  quarters;  with 
due  care  in  watering  they  then  make  steady  and  continuous 
progress,  and  are  not  susceptible  to  the  attacks  of  eel  worms  and 
rust.  I  like  to  layer  the  plants  in  pits  or  frames,  in  which  6  inches 
of  prepared  compost  has  been  placed.  Good  sweet  garden  soil,  with 
a  liberal  addition  of  leaf  soil  and  sharp  sand,  is  a  suitable  mixture 
for  the  purpose  ;  the  roots  move  quickly  in  it,  and  there  is  less  danger 
of  loss  through  wireworm  than  when  turfy  loam  is  employed.  All 
soils  in  which  eelworms  are  known  to  abound  should  be  burnt  before 
being  used  for  Carna  ions  of  any  description. 
In  carrying  out  the  work  of  layering,  strip  off  a  few  of  the  bottom 
leaves  from  each  shoot,  then  plant  a  row  along  the  back  of  the  frame ; 
“tongue ’’each  sho' t  just  under  the  lower  leaves,  fasten  securely  in 
the  soil  with  a  wire  ]ipg,  and  cover  with  a  little  additional  stril.  If 
the  shoots  are  fixed  in  an  almost  vertical  position  it  will  insure  leaving 
the  “  tongue  ”  0|  en,  a  condition  necessary  to  secure  the  rapid  success 
of  roots.  I  find  there  is  usually  a  tendency  among  young  men  to 
“tongue”  the  shoots  too  far  below  the  leaves,  with  the  result  that 
plants  are  “le.gy.”  An  ideal  plant  when  rooted  should  not  be  inore 
than  4  inches  in  height,  with  foliage  down  to  within  half  an  inch  of 
the  roots.  After  the  back  row  has  been  operated  upon  pla'e  another 
row  in  position,  and  follow  the  same  course  throughout.  The  layers 
can  then  be  arranged  evenly  over  the  whole  surface  of  the  soil,  and  a 
great  number  can  be  placed  in  a,  single  light.  After  layering  water 
thori  ughly  trrongh  a  rose.  Shade  through  the  day  whenever  tlie 
weather  is  bright,  and  give  no  air  for  a  few  days.  If  syrincing  is 
practised  once  or  twice  daily  the  layers  will  be  kept  fresb  and  healthy, 
and  will  soon  emit  roots.  After  the  first  week  admit  a  little  air,  and 
gradually  increase  the  amount,  till  the  light  can  be  withdrawn 
altogether  as  .‘^oon  as  the  plants  begin  to  grow.  Steady  showers 
falling  on  the  plants  invigorate  them  immensely,  but  the  lights  must 
be  placed  over  them  should  heavy  downpours  occur,  or  the  soil  may 
get  too  wet  and  c  luee  the  young  roots  to  decay. 
When  the  plants  are  potted  I  pDce  them  in  6-inch  pots,  using 
a  compost  formed  of  three  parts  turfy  loam,  which  has  been  burned  ; 
one  part  leaf  soil,  half  a  part  wuod  ashes,  and  some  sharp  sand  added. 
Firm  potting  should  be  practised,  and  plenty  of  room  be  left  for 
holding  water.  A  few  haif-inch  bones  placed  over  one  large  crock 
form  I  xcel lent  drainage,  and  the  bones  feed  the  plant  at  the  critical 
time — viz.,  when  the  flower  buds  are  swelling.  When  pit  room  is  not 
available  the  plants  m  .y  be  placed  in  the  open  air,  but  should  heavy 
rains  occur  shortly  after  they  are  potted,  the  pots  ought  to  be  turned 
on  their  sides  to  prevent  the  soil  from  getting  too  wet.  F.  r  thi.-^ 
reason  it  is  always  advisable  to  p'ace  them  under  glass  for  a  time,  as 
the  lights  can  bo  drawn  off  during  fine  weather.  Great  care  in 
watering  is  necessary  throughout  the  autumn  and  winter  months,  as 
there  is  so  little  root  action  going  on  that  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  over¬ 
water.  It  is  far  better  to  err  on  the  side  of  keeping  the  si  il  too  dry, 
than  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  be 
stirred  occasionally  to  keep  it  [sw^eet,  and  thus  help  to  maintain  the 
plants  in  good  health. 
The  Churchwarden  is  one  of  the  strongest  and  healthiest  growing 
varieties  among  the  whole  family  of  Malraaisons,  and  all  who  require 
a  large  crimson-scarlet  flower  should  obtain  it. — D.  W. 
- <♦♦♦> - 
Applying  Liqaid  and  Artificial  ll|anure. 
At  this  season  of  the  year  liquid  and  artificial  manures  are 
frequently  brought  into  requisition  in  the  cultivation  of  various  crops, 
both  outdoors  and  under  glass.  Plants  in  a  flow^ering  condition, 
those  making  new  growth  ind  others  tearing  crops,  need  assistance 
to  enable  them  to  give  good  results.  The  manuring  must,  however, 
be  done  judiciously,  not  applying  it  in  a  reckless  manner  by  using  in 
a  thiik  muddy  state,  too  strong,  or  applying  too  frequently.  In  a 
clear  slate  and  properly  diluted  liquid  manure  is  very  eflective  in 
sustaining  giowth  and  assisting  the  development  of  most  crops.  The 
best  plan  to  follow  in  using  stimulanis  of  any  kind  is  to  apply  them 
weak  and  often.  *• 
Among  the  plants  which  now  require  assistance  outdoors  are 
kitchen  gatdeu  crops,  including  Celery,  Runner  Beans,  Cauliflowers, 
Brussels  Sfirouts,  and  Asparagus.  These  crops  may,  as  a  rule,  have 
hqnid  manure  apjilied  stronger  than  would  be  safe  for  plants  in  pots. 
The  stimulanis  are  best  given  when  the  ground  is  moist.  Plums, 
Apples,  Pears,  are  promising  good  crops  this  season,  and  the  trees  will 
be  much  benefited  and  helped  in  bringing  the  crop  to  jiorlection  if  the 
roots  can  draw  upon  a  good  food  supply  as  they  n  quire.  Vines 
appropriate  much  moisture  when  perfecting  a  crop,  so  some  stimulants, 
either  in  a  liquid  or  powder  state,  should  be  washed  into  the  soil,  and 
if  the  roots  aie  plentiful  and  near  the  surface  of  the  border,  a  mulching 
of  manure  is  necessary'  to  maintain  equable  conditions.  There  are 
some  excellent  general  artificial  manures  which  may  be  employed,  and 
usually  with  good  results. 
The  frequent  use  of  manure  in  some  form  is  necessary  in  the 
culture  of  Tomatoes,  crops  demandiusi  much  supqrort  at  this  time, 
especially  if  grow  ng  in  pots,  where  the  rooting  space  is  restricted. 
In  aadition  to  top-dressings  of  rich  manure,  or  a  compost  of  manure 
and  soil,  soot  water,  diluted  stable  drainings,  or  sprinklings  of  some 
compound  manure  are  necessary  to  continue  growth  and  the  free 
setting  of  fruit. 
Chrysanthemums  in  pots  are  largely  dependent  on  frequent 
applications  of  liquid  and  artificial  manures,  but  none  should  be 
applied  before  roots  have  occupied  the  pots  freely,  as  it  only 
tends  to  sour  the  soil  and  promote  a  sappy  growth.  Care  must  be 
exercised  in  this  respect,  beginning  with  weak  applications  of  clear 
soot  water  and  varying  the  diet.  No  harm  can  be  done  if  applied 
weak  and  clear,  but  much  damage  miy  be  wrought  by  strong 
applications  frequently  apiplied.  The  feeding  process  ex'ends  over  a 
long  time,  so  the  best  results  must  follow  a  judicious  use  of  stimulants 
in  the  early  stages.  Fuchsias  in  pots  in  greenhousis  can  dlten  be 
induced  to  continue  growth  and  blooming  if  active  rooting  can  be 
promoted  by  gentle  stimulants.  Ferns  at  this  srason  in  pots  may 
receive  liquid  manure  with  advantage  it  the  soil  is  well  occupied  with 
roots.  Soot  water  is  excellent  for  them,  and  should  be  used  in  a  clear 
state. 
Wall  Roses,  and  other  climbers  which  make  new  wood  after 
blooming,  derive  considerable  benefit  from  mulchings  of  manure  when 
copious  supplies  of  water  are  used.  The  rooting  medium  for  these  is 
seldom  too  moist,  the  reverse  usually  being  the  case,  owing  to  the 
free  drainage  occasioned  by  wall  foundations.  The  various  sections 
of  Dahlias  when  blooming  freely  and  the  weather  is  dry  should  be 
assisted  to  continue  by  frequent  applications  of  liauid  stimulants, 
alternating  with  clear  water.  Many  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  fairly 
well  established,  but  probably  making  a  weakly  growth,  can  be 
assis'ed  by  well  moistening  the  soil  as  far  as  the  roots  extend  with 
liquid  manure  of  moderate  strength.  The  blooming  period  of  Sweet 
Peas  can  be  prolonged  by  judiciously  feeding  the  plants  at  the  roots 
and  preventing  the  pods  seeding. 
In  planting  Winter  Greens  at  this  time  it  is  quite  safe  to  use 
liquid  niannre,  if  it  is  possible  to  obtain  it,  instead  of  water.  Estab¬ 
lished  p’anta  may  also  be  stimulated  into  active  growth  by  us  use. 
In  the  herbaceous  border  numerous  plants  coniing  into  bloom  may 
require  ext' a  assistance,  which  may  be  given  by  slight  mulchings  and 
waterings  with  stimulants. — E.  D.  S. 
