66 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
July  19,  1900. 
'the  position  naturally  deficient  in  moisture.  Liquid  manure  will  assist 
Tines  carrying  a  full  crop. 
Outdoor  Figs. — Allow  all  young  shoots  for  future  bearing  to  be  fully 
-exposed  to  light,  leaving  them  at  full  length.  The  bearing  shoots  may 
■be  stopped  several  leaves  above  the  fruit.  Disbud  or  rub  out  sappy 
-shoots  starting  from  the  old  wood,  as  such  growths  do  not  make 
fruitful  shoots. 
Eed  and  White  Currants. — If  the  side  shoots  on  the  main  branches 
e,re  reduced  to  three  pairs  of  leaves  plenty  of  light  will  be  admitted  to 
the  fruit  to  complete  ripening,  and  the  vigour  concentrated  on  the  basal 
buds,  which  can  also  receive  light  and  air. 
Black  Currants. — Young  strong  growths  are  the  best  for  fruiting, 
and  these  may  be  left  their  entire  length,  cutting  out  the  shoots  that 
bear  the  fruit  when  the  crop  has  been  gathered  ;  mulching  over  the  roots 
and  applying  liquid  manure  are  beneficial. 
Baspberries. — The  strongest  growths  may  be  retained  for  the  future 
bearing  canes  to  the  number  of  four  or  six  to  each  stool  or  clump. 
•Cut  out  the  old  growths  after  fruiting. 
Blackberries. — Mulch  and  water  to  encourage  free  development 
of  the  fruit,  and  the  production  of  long  shoots  for  the  succeeding 
season.  Secure  them  in  a  good  position  in  order  that  they  may'become 
well  ripened,  and  not  be  injured  by  ■wind. 
Preparing  Soil  for  Strawberries. — When  establishing  a  new  bed  of 
Strawberries  it  is  important  that  the  ground  should  be  thoroughly  well 
trenched  and  manured  either  at  the  present  time  or  for  a  previous  crop. 
It  is  better  to  plant  on  a  new  site  rather  than  dig  over  and  occupy  the 
same  position  again,  as  the  plants  naturally  exhaust  the  soil.  Decayed 
<jow  manure  should  be  incorporated  with  light  soil,  and  decomposed 
horse  manure  for  soil  of  a  heavier  character.  Bastard  trenching  is  a 
safe  plan  of  deep  cultivation,  as  the  fertile  top  spit  is  not  buried  below 
and  a  hungry  subsoil  brought  to  the  surface. 
- o#** - 
Fruit  Forcing. 
vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Those  intended  for  starting  at 
the  beginning  of  November  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  late  in  March  or 
•early  in  April  should  by  this  time  have  completed  their  growth,  and  be 
given  no  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  from  becoming  limp, 
exposing  them  to  all  the  light  possible,  so  as  to  thoroughly  ripen  the 
wood  by  concentrating  the  juices  in  the  buds  and  canes,  as  is  done  under 
the  dry  regime.  Keep  the  Vines  free  from  red  spider  and  thrips,  as  it 
is  important  that  the  leaves  perform  their  functions  to  the  last.  After 
the  wood  becomes  brown  and  hard  the  Vines  may  be  stood  on  a  board 
or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  securing  the  canes  thereto  to  prevent 
damage  by  wind.  If  the  canes  do  not  ripen  well  keep  the  Vines  in  the 
house  with  a  temperature  of  85°  to  95°  by  moderating  the  ventilation, 
and  admit  air  freely  at  night. 
Early  Houses. — The  Vines  cleared  of  their  crops  will  require  a 
comparatively  dry  atmosphere  to  ripen  the  wood,  but  it  will  not  be 
necessary  to  employ  artificial  heat  to  insure  the  requisite  warmth,  as 
that  can  be  effected  by  regulating  the  ventilation  according  to  the 
weather.  Avoid,  however,  a  close  atmosphere,  especially  at  night, 
which  would  have  the  effect  of  inducing  lateral  growths  that  must  be 
restrained,  keeping  the  laterals  and  all  late  growths  well  in  hand, 
seeking  complete  maturity  in  the  wood  and  buds  by  keeping  the  house 
cool  and  dry.  In  the  case  of  Vines  that  have  lost  the  lower  leaves  on 
the  bearing  shoots  through  attacks  of  red  spider  or  other  causes, 
moderate  extension  of  the  laterals  is  desirable,  so  as  to  retain  some 
growths  on  the  Vines,  and  prevent  the  concentration  of  the  sap  on  the 
dormant  buds  to  the  extent  of  starting  them  into  growth.  With  an 
outlet  for  the  sap,  such  as  that  afforded  by  laterals  above  the  pruning 
buds,  premature  growth  will  be  prevented,  whilst  the  buds  and  wood 
profit  to  some  extent  by  the  assimilation  and  storing  of  food. 
A  drier  condition  of  the  soil  is  also  desirable,  but  it  must  not  become 
parched  and  cracked,  which  will  not  occur  if  the  border  has  been  pro¬ 
perly  mulched  or  the  surface  kept  loose.  An  inch  or  a  little  more 
thickness  of  sweetened  lumpy  manure,  or  that  depth  of  loose  soil, 
conserves  the  soil  moismre,  whilst  not  depriving  it  of  air.  If  needed, 
water  must  be  supplied  to  keep  the  soil  so  moist  as  to  preserve  the 
foliage  in  health,  and  this  must  be  kept  clean  by  occasional  syringing, 
or  the  prompt  application  of  an  insecticide. 
Muscats  Ripening. — These  require  time  and  assistance  from  fire  heat 
to  ripen  perfectly.  A  night  temperature  of  65°  is  imperative,  and  that  of 
the  day  should  be  70°  to  75°  in  dull  weather,  and  with  sun  85°  to  90°  be 
secured  by  judicious  regulation  of  the  ventilators,  yet  having  due  regard 
to  a  free  circulation  of  air.  This  is  imperative  to  prevent  spotting,  a 
litte  air  being  admitted  constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture 
on  the  berries,  increasing  it  early  in  the  day,  so  that  the  Grapes  may 
become  warmed  correspondingly  with  the  atmosphere,  and  be  kept 
exhaling.  Muscats  require  a  rather  dry  warm  atmosphere.  They  also 
need  plentiful  supplies  of  water  when  swelling  and  in  the  early  stages 
of  finishing  their  fruit. 
Late  Houses. — Late  Grapes  intended  to  hang  all  the  winter  should 
have  a  final  thinning,  removing  the  smallest  berries,  and  where  too 
crowded  allow  every  retained  berry  full  space  for  development.  As  a 
rule  late  Grapes  should  be  more  severely  thinned  than  early  and  mid¬ 
season  ones,  yet  leaving  sufficient  berries  to  form  symmetrical  bunches, 
such  as  will  retain  their  shape  when  dished  and  have  a  good  apoearanoe. 
Inside  borders  must  be  kept  well  supplied  with  water,  afterwards  follow¬ 
ing  with  liquid  manure,  or  a  top-dressing  of  some  artificial  manure,  and 
wash  in  moderately.  A  light  mulching  of  partially  decayed  lumpy 
manure  will  lessen  the  necessity  for  water,  attracting  the  roots  to  the 
surface,  and  nourishing  them.  Outside  borders  must  have  attention 
for  watering,  feeding,  and  mulching  as  circumstances  require.  Regu¬ 
late  the  growths  as  needed,  adopting  the  extension  rather  than  the 
restrictive  system  where  there  is  room  for  it  without  crowding,  keeping 
gross  laterals  stopped,  so  as  to  cause  an  equal  flow  of  the  sap  throughout 
the  Vines.  As  the  period  when  scalding  occurs  is  at  hand  it  will  be 
necessary  to  guard  against  it  by  increased  night  temperature,  or  65°  to 
70°,  and  abundant  ventilation,  so  as  to  reduce  the  atmospheric  moisture 
or  prevent  the  air  heating  more  rapidly  from  sun  heat  than  the  berries 
After  the  berries  commence  to  colour  danger  from  scalding  is,  for  the 
most  part,  past,  then  the  fire  heat  may  be  economised  by  reducing  the 
ventilation  early,  so  that  the  sun  may  raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or  95° 
on  fine  afternoons. 
Young  Vines. — Those  of  this  season’s  planting  should,  provided  the 
light  is  not  too  much  obstructed,  be  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  it 
being  presumed  that  they  are  to  be  cut  back  to  the  bottom  of  the 
trellis,  or  to  three  buds  at  the  winter  pruning  ;  but  the  laterals  must 
not  be  allowed  to  interfere  with  the  leaves  that  feed  the  buds  at  their 
base  expected  to  fruit  next  season.  Supernumeraries  intended  for 
next  year’s  fruiting  may  be  regularly  stopped  at  a  length  of  7  or  8  feet, 
pinching  the  laterals  to  one  leaf  as  made,  except  those  from  the  upper 
part  of  the  canes,  which  at  the  first  stopping  should  be  allowed  a  little 
more  latitude.  When  growth  is  completed  the  laterals  ought  to  be 
gradually  removed,  taking  care  not  to  start  the  main  buds,  so  as  to 
insure  the  thorough  ripening  of  the  wood.  Afford  water  liberally, 
mulching  and  keeping  the  border  moist,  so  as  to  encourage  surface 
roots.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by  frequent  sprinkling  of  the 
paths  and  borders,  and  syringe  the  Vines  on  fine  afternoons,  closing 
early  to  attain  a  heat  of  90°  to  95°.  Ventilate  freely  through  the  early 
part  of  the  day  to  insure  a  short-jointed  thoroughly  solidified  growth. 
Cacumbers. — The  plants  should  be  looked  over  twice  a  week  for 
thinning  the  growths  as  occasion  requires,  it  being  easy  to  rub  off  a 
starting  shoot  in  the  wrong  place  or  for  which  there  is  not  room,  and 
the  fruits  of  unruly  growths  may  be  nipped  off  without  prejudice.  Cut 
out  exhausted  growths  to  make  room  for  young  bearing  shoots.  Keep 
the  shoots  well  stopped  to  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  or  at  the  fruit 
if  the  plants  are  vigorous  and  showing  no  signs  of  exhaustion.  Remove 
bad  leaves  as  they  appear,  always  having  an  eye  to  the  first  speck  of 
abnormality  on  the  foliage,  whether  caused  by  red  spider,  thrips,  white 
fly,  or  mildew.  These  pests  have  an  abhorrence  of  sulphur,  especially 
the  fumes,  which  are  given  off  more  or  less  under  the  solar  heat  acting 
on  surfaces  coated  with  flowers  of  sulphur.  Mildew  spores  are  just  now 
very  abundant  in  the  atmosphere  ;  have  an  eye,  therefore,  to  C  icumber 
plants,  preferably  dusting  a  little  sulphur  on  the  plants,  or  where  the 
sun  can  act  on  it,  as  a  precautionary  measure.  Aphides  are  also 
attacking  in  some  cases,  for  which  and  thrips  fumigation  with  tobacco 
paper,  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine  compound,  on  two  or  three  con¬ 
secutive  evenings,  are  the  best  remedies. 
Cucumbers  like  a  long  range  of  temperature,  65°  to  70°  at  night,  75° 
by  day,  85°  to  90°  with  sun,  closing  early  to  maintain  the  latter,  or  even 
increase  to  95°  or  100°.  Syringe  sufficiently  early  in  the  afternoon  of 
hot  days  for  the  foliage  to  be  dry  before  sunset.  Commence  ventilating 
early,  it  being  important  that  the  foliage  be  dry  before  the  sun  acts 
powerfully  upon  it.  Shade  so  as  to  prevent  scorching  and  flagging. 
The  plants  for  autumn  fruiting  should  now  or  soon  be  placed  on  hillocks 
or  ridges  moderately  firm,  maintaining  a  moist  genial  atmosphere,  and 
they  will  soon  grow  sturdily  and  show  fruit  abundantly. 
- — 
He  Kitclien  Garden. 
Cabbage. — There  are  few  more  important  crops  than  spring  Cabbage, 
and  the  present  is  the  time  to  take  the  initial  step  in  their 
production.  To  have  them  really  early  the  plants  must  be  raised  in 
July  or  the  first  fortnight  in  August.  Varieties  of  Wheelers’ Imperial, 
Ellam’s  Dwarf  Spring,  and  Early  Offenheim  are  among  the  most 
reliable.  Free  working,  but  not  rich  or  “stale,”  open  plots  are  most 
suitable  for  the  purpose,  and  sowing  thinly  in  drills  4  inches  or  more 
apart  the  most  economical  plan. 
Carrots. — An  all-the-year-round  supply  of  young  Carrots  never  fails 
of  appreciation.  Seed  sown  now  of  stump  rooted  varieties  should 
result  in  a  bountiful  supply  of  tender  roots  next  autumn  and  winter,  or 
till  they  are  available  from  hotbeds  and  frames.  Preference  should  be 
given  to  free  working  soil  manured  for  a  preceding  crop,  say  of  early 
Peas,  Lettuce,  or  Cauliflowers,  a  warm  border  convenient  for  protecting 
with  strawy  litter  in  hard  weather  answering  beet. 
Endive. — Now  is  the  beet  time  to  sow  seed  of  the  Green  Curled  and 
Batavian  forms  of  Endive  in  quantity.  The  plants  cannot  well  be 
grown  too  largo  if  well  blanched  hearts  nearly  equalling  good  Lettuce 
are  desired  next  autumn  and  winter.  The  seed  may  be  sown  where  a 
portion  of  the  resulting  plants  are  to  attain  to  their  full  size,  or  in  seed 
