98 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Angust  2,  I900» 
without  taking  the  plants  out  of  the  pots.  Decaying  spnagnutn,  on 
the  other  hand,  if  not  in  too  great  bulk,  is  a  useful  fertiliser,  and 
the  young  growing  points  form  practically  a  new  rooting  medium 
yearly. 
This  Orchid  will  grow  freely  in  the  East  Indian  house,  but  enjoys 
a  high  and  somewhat  dry  temperature  at  midday.  Though  requiring 
to  be  screened  from  bright  sunshine  a  dense  shade  is  not  advisable, 
especially  at  the  end  of  the  summer.  The  foliage  must  be  well  con¬ 
solidated  to  enable  the  plants  to  withstand  a  few  weeks’  dry  rest  in 
the  house  where  grown.  This  species,  however,  will  not  always  be 
compelled  to  rest,  and  when  seen  to  be  starting  into  growth  must  be 
encouraged,  as  it  is  important  to  maintain  as  far  as  possible  the  initial 
vigour  of  the  species.  0.  Lanceanum  when  newly  imported  frequently 
bears  leaves  from  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  length,  but  I  have  never  seen 
these  matched  under  cultivation. 
Notes  on  Schomburgkias. 
The  few  species  which  constitute  this  genus  can  hardly  be 
classed  as  superior  Orchids,  but  there  are  at  least  three  kinds  which 
should  be  included  in  representative  collections.  In  habit  and 
appearance  they  closely  resemble  Cattleyas,  but  the  culture  should 
be  similar  to  that  of  the  evergreen  Dendrobiums.  The  winter 
temperature  ought  not,  however,  to  fall  much  below  50°. 
Schomburgkias  should  be  grown  in  well  drained  pots  with  the 
usual  mixture  of  peat  and  sphagnum.  S.  tibicinis  produces  an 
upright  raceme  from  3  to  6  feet  in  height  bearing  many  flowers. 
These  are  each  3  inches  across,  the  sepals  and  petals  narrow,  wavy, 
reddish  purple.  The  labellum  is  three  lobed,  the  centre  white,  the 
side  lobes  rosy  red  streaked  with  purple.  The  pseudo-bulbs  of  this 
species  are  hollow,  and  in  their  natural  habitat  are  said  to  be  often 
occupied  by  swarms  ot  ferocious  ants. 
S.  Lyonsi  is  smaller  than  the  last  named.  The  flowers  are 
produced  on  shorter  racemes,  and  are  2  inches  across,  white,  with 
brown  and  purple  markings.  The  pseudo-bulbs  are  about  10  inches 
high,  thickened  in  the  middle,  and  each  bears  a  couple  of  leaves  on  the 
top.  This  species  is  a  native  of  Jamaica.  S.  Thomsoni  is  rarer  than 
either  of  the  species  named.  The  flowers  are  pale  yellow,  with  a 
dark  purple  blotch  on  the  lip.  There  are  certain  other  kinds  in 
cultivation,  such  as  S.  marginata,  S.  crispa,  and  S.  rosea ;  but  the 
three  mentioned  above  are  probably  the  best  and  most  generally 
grown.  S.  Sanderiana  (fig.  27)  with  rosy  purple  is  also  well  worth 
growing. — H. 
Building  an  Orchid  Honre. 
I  WOULD  like  to  build  an  Orchid  house,  say  from  10  to  15  yards 
long,  and  from  4  to  6  yards  wide,  to  grow  only  ten  to  fifteen  of  the 
most  handsome  flowering  varieties  for  show  purposes.  Would  you 
furnish  me  with  the  following  information  ?  The  name  of  a  most 
reliable  Orchid  firm  who  could  give  me  the  details  of  the  most 
convenient  structure  and  fittings  for  the  purpose  ;  the  list  of  Orchids 
they  would  propose  and  their  prices,  with  cultural  hints.  I  have  full 
confidence  in  English  dealers,  as  1  have  onlv  been  growing  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  for  three  years,  but  by  following  Mr.  Molyneux’s  book  and 
other  instructions  in  your  Journal  I  have  always  carried  off  first  prizes 
in  all  our  exhibitions. — F.  B  ,  Genoa. 
[It  would  be  unfair  to  name  individual  firms,  but  there  are  several 
who  advertise  regularly  in  this  Journal  w^ho  would  give  every  atoention 
to  your  want^.  As  to  the  house  itself  you  could  cultivate  a  very 
interesting  and  varied  collection  in  a  structure  of  the  size  you  mention, 
having  a  partition  across  the  centre  to  divide  the  cool  section  from  the 
warm.  Unless  you  intended  growing  large  specimens  the  12  feet  wide 
house  with  side  stages  and  a  centre  path  would  be  most  suitable.  For 
large  plants  a  house  from  16  feet  to  20  feet  wide  with  centre  and  side 
stages  and  two  paths  would  be  more  advisable  than  the  former.  In 
either  case  have  them  properly  heated,  and  a  system  of  shallow  tanks 
made  with  bricks  and  cement  under  the  stages  helps  to  create  atmo¬ 
spheric  moisture.  The  stages  should  be  of  latticework,  and  so  arranged 
that  an  under  stage  of  solid  wood  covered  with  shingle,  small  coke,  or 
other  rough  moisture-holding  material  can  be  fixed.  This  must  be 
kept  moist  in  summer  by  frequent  dampings  from  the  syringe.  If  the 
house  run  due  north  and  south,  let  the  cool  compartment  be  at  the 
north  end,  or  if  any  other  aspect  let  it  approach  the  north  as  nearly  as 
possible.  Blinds  must  be  fitted  to  each  house,  the  lath  roller  blind 
now  so  much  in  vogue  being  excell  nt  for  the  purpose. 
Prices  of  Orchids  vary  so  much,  that  information  on  this  head  can 
only  be  vague.  Newly  infported  plants  of  some  of  the  very  best  and 
most  showy  species  are  often  sold  as  low  as  Is.  each  ;  while,  again, 
good  established  specimens  of  the  same  variety  may  be  worth  a 
guinea.  All  depends  upon  the  individual  plant  and  kind,  and  the 
same  is  true  ot  culture.  Notes  on  various  species  appear  regularly 
in  our  column  devoted  to  Orchids,  and  to  these  you  may  refer,  while 
in  case  of  any  point  on  which  you  are  in  doubt  we  shall  be  pleased 
to  give  information.  We  are  glad  you  have  found  the  Journal  of 
Horticulture  helpful,  and  wish  you  every  success  in  your  new  venture.] 
Lettuces  All  tlpe  Year  Round. 
Fresh  crisp  heads  of  this  greatly  esteemed  vegetable  nre  at  all 
times  welcome,  and  as  a  rule  not  difficult  to  produce  throughout  the 
summer  and  early  autumn  months.  During  winter  and  early  springs 
however,  gardeners  are  generally  satisfied  if  they  can  maintain  a 
supply  of  small  heads  having  just  enough  heart  to  be  useful  for 
mixing  with  the  mysterious  conccc‘’ioDs  of  the  salad  bowl. 
The  last  week  in  July  is  an  excellent  time  to  make  sowings  of 
such  varieties  as  Paris  Green  Cos,  Par  Excellence,  Stanstead  Park, 
and  Nansen,  to  supply  heads  during  autumn  and  early  winter.  If  the 
seeds  are  sown  broadcast,  and  the  soil  is  kept  regularly  moistened,  the 
young  plants  advance  very  quickly  at  this  time  of  the  year,  and  are 
soon  ready  for  pricking  out  4  inches  apart.  The  ground  prepared  for 
their  reception  should,  if  possible,  be  light  and  rich,  and  receive  a 
dressing  of  soot,  which  helps  greatly  to  keep  insects  in  check  as  well 
as  to  stimulate  the  young  plants. 
When  they  are  ready  for  placing  in  their  permanent  position 
they  ought  to  be  lifted  with  small  balls  of  earth  attached,  so  as  to  avoid 
a  check  and  secure  rapid  growth.  The  earliest  plants  may  be  planted 
a  foot  apart  in  any  open  situation  at  command,  but  later  ones  should, 
if  possible,  be  planted  on  a  warm  border,  as  in  such  position  they 
often  escape  injury  by  frost,  when  those  in  open  quarters  are  quite 
ruined,  it  is  also  an  easy  matter  to  give  sufficient  protection 
with  straw,  canvas,  or  bracken  when  the  plants  are  in  a  sheltered 
position,  and  then  if  very  severe  weather  continue  they  should  be 
lifted  and  planted  in  frames,  allowing  space  enough  for  the  air  to 
circulate  freely  around  each  plant.  Our  seasons  are  so  variable 
that  gardeners  have  to  provide  against  such  contingencies,  although 
during  some  seasons  Lettuce  are  quite  safe  in  the  open  till  the  end  of 
November. 
A  sowing  to  supply  plants  to  stand  the  winter  should  be  made 
during  the  third  or  fourth  week  in  August.  Suitable  varieties  for  the 
purpose  are  Paris  Green  Cos,  Black-seeded  Bath  Cos,  and  Hicks’  Hardy 
White  Cos.  Among  Cabbage  varieties,  Nansen  (perhaps  the  hardiest 
of  all),  Stanstead  Park,  and  All  the  Year  Round  form  a  trio  not  easily 
surpassed.  All  the  plants  resulting  from  sowings  made  in  August 
should  be  pricked  out  in  rough  frames  or  on  south  borders,  and  during 
severe  weather  they  ought  to  be  protected  with  straw  or  bracken. 
Such  covering,  however,  should  be  removed  whenever  it  is  safe  to  do 
so,  or  the  young  plants  will  decay.  Slugs  are  often  troublesome  ;  for 
the  purpose  of  keeping  them  in  check  dust  the  plants  with  powdered 
lime  and  soot,  each  being  applied  on  a  separate  occasion.  Traps,  in 
the  form  of  Turnips  cut  into  slices,  should  also  be  laid  down  and 
examined  daily. 
During  February  or  March,  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable, 
lift  some  of  the  earliest  plants  with  good  balls  of  earth  attached,  and 
set  them  9  inches  apart  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall,  taking  care  to 
thoroughly  enrich  the  soil  with  well  decayed  manure  before  plantin?. 
In  so  sheltered  a  position  the  plants  grow  very  quickly,  and  give 
an  early  supply  of  crisp  beads,  if  watered  freely  when  the  soil  is  dry 
and  the  weather  bright.  The  main  stock  of  plants  should  be 
placed  in  a  situation  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east,  but  open 
to  the  south.  Plant  a  foot  apart  in  drills  3  inches  in  depth,  and  after  a 
time  draw  the  soil  round  the  stem  of  each  plant.  In  order  to  hasten 
blanching  tie  up  the  leaves  lightly  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  form  a 
heart  and  throughout  all  stages  of  growth.  Stir  the  soil  frequently 
with  a  hoe,  and  once  or  twice  during  showery  weather  apply  nitrate  of 
soda  at  the  rate  of  ^  oz.  per  square  yard. 
Early  in  February  sow  in  boxes  under  glass  Improved  Early  Paria 
Market,  and  Improved  Paris  White,  in  order  to  secure  p'ants  to  follow 
closely  those  sown  during  August.  The  same  varieties  should  be 
sown  on  a  warm  border  in  the  open  air  about  the  middle  of  March, 
and  early  in  April  make  a  large  sowing  of  such  fine  summer  varieties 
as  Leviathan,  Giant  White  Cos,  Cannell’s  Giant  Cos,  Continuity, 
and  New  York.  During  May  and  June  small  sowings  may  be  mad& 
once  a  fortnight  on  a  north  or  west  border. 
Throughout  the  summer  months  a  cool  situation  should  as  far 
as  possible  be  selected  for  the  plants,  or  it  is  often  difficult  to  prevent 
them  from  “  running  ”  to  seed.  North  and  west”  borders  may¬ 
be  utilised  for  the  purpose,  or  spaces  between  fruit  trees  or  bushes- 
when  there  is  a  fair  amount  of  light.  It  is  also  sometimes  an  excellent 
plan  to  sow  seeds  thinly  where  the  plants  are  to  remain,  as  during 
very  hot  weather  plants  so  raised  heart  nicely,  while  transplanted  ones 
run  to  seed.  Copious  supplies  of  water,  in  which  nitrate  of  soda  at 
the  rate  of  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  per  gallon,  assists  Lettuce  wonderfully 
during  hot  weather,  and  often  prevents  them  from  bolting.  If  a 
mulching  is  also  given  these  <lual  practices  will  enable  the  cultivator 
to  maintain  a  regular  supply  during  the  most  trying  seasons. — 
Kitchen  Gardener. 
