13S 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  9,  1900, 
Empress  Eugenie;  third  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with  Douglas.  Yellow 
ground  Fancy. — First  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with  Queen  Bess  ;  second 
Mr.  H.  G.  Owen  with  Golden  Eagle ;  third  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with 
Brodick.  Fancy  Carnation  other  than  yellow  ground. — First  Mr.  R.  C. 
Cartwright  with  Monarch ;  second  and  third  Mr.  A.  R.  Brown  and 
Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  both  with  Pelegia.  White  self. — First  Mr.  R.  C. 
■Cartwright  with  Mrs.  Eric  Hambro ;  second  Mr.  Tom  Lord  with  same 
-rariety ;  third  Mr.  C.  F.  Thurstan  with  Much  the  Miller,  Blush  or  flesh 
self. — First  Mr.  T.  Lord  with  Seagull;  second  Mr.  T.  Lord  with  Gentle 
•Jacket ;  third  Messrs.  Thomson  &  Co.  with  Seagull.  Yellow  self. — 
First  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with  Guinevere  ;  second  Messrs.  Thomson 
and  Co.  with  Germania ;  and  third  Mr.  E.  C.  Rossiter  with  the  same 
variety.  Buff  or  terra  cotta  self. — First  and  third  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright 
with  Benbow  ;  second  Mr.  A.  Chatwin  with  same  variety.  Rose  or  pink 
self. — First  Mr.  C.  F.  Thurstan  with  Exile  ;  second  Mr.  E.  0.  Rossiter, 
and  third  Messrs.  Thomson  &  Co.,  both  with  Sadek.  Salmon  pink  or 
salmon  scarlet. — First  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with  Enchantress  ;  second 
Messrs.  Artindale  &  Son  with  Endymion ;  third  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright 
with  same  variety.  Scarlet  self. — First  Mr.  R.  C. 'Cartwright  with 
Isinglass ;  second  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with  Mrs.  McRae ;  third  Mr.  R,  C. 
Cartwright  with  the  latter  variety.  Dark  crimson  or  maroon  self. — 
First  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with  Comet ;  second  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with 
Boreas ;  third  Mr.  H.  G.  Owen  with  Negress.  Any  other  dark  self. — 
First  and  second  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with  Roseleigh  Gem ;  third  Mr.  R. 
Sydenham  with  same  variety. 
Premier  blooms. — Messrs.  Pemberton  &  Sons  with  Robert  Houlgrave  ; 
Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with  Gordon  Lewis  ;  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with 
Muriel;  Mr.  R.  Sydenham  with  Fortrose;  Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright  with 
Benbow  ;  Mr.  Chatwin  with  Mrs.  Douglas ;  Mr.  A.  W.  Jones  with  Queen 
Bess. 
Sweet  Peas  formed  a  very  pleasing  feature,  and  many  excellent 
blooms  were  on  evidence.  For  nine  varieties. — First,  Mr.  A.  Cryer, 
gardener  to  J.  A.  Kenrick,  Esq,  Edgbaston;  second,  Mr.  W.  Bellamy. 
Floral  arrangement  of  Sweet  Peas. — First,  Mr.  W.  Bellamy ;  second, 
Mr.  B.  M.  Binns.  Twelve  varieties  Sweet  Peas. — First,  Mr.  A.  W. 
Hulse,  Birmingham  ;  second,  Mr.  A.  T.  Simpson,  Shipston.on-Stour. 
Twelve  bunches  herbaceous  cut  flowers. — First,  Mr.  A.  Cryer. 
Floral  table  arrangement. — First,  Mr.  W.  M.  Binns,  Worcester ; 
aecond,  Mrs.  C.  H.  Herbert,  Birmingham.  Three  buttonholes. — First, 
Mr.  R.  C.  Cartwright;  second,  Mr.  C.  W.  Kemp. 
For  non-competitive  exhibits  a  silver-gilt  medal  was  awarded  to 
Messrs.  Gunn  &  Sons,  Olton  Nurseries,  Birmingham,  for  a  magnificent 
collection  of  hardy  herbaceous  cut  flowers,  most  artistically  arranged, 
also  named.  A  similar  award  was  made  to  Mr.  B.  Rr.  Davis, Yeovil,  for  a 
gorgeous  and  large  display  of  cut  double  Begonias.  Silver  medals 
were  awarded  to  Mr.  J.  H.  White,  Worcester,  for  a  very  fine  and  well 
arranged  collection  of  hardy  cut  flowers;  to  Messrs.  Hewitt  &  Co., 
Solihull,  for  a  similar  arrangement ;  to  Messrs.  Dickson,  Chester,  for  a 
collection  of  Carnations  ;  to  Messrs.  Simpson  &  Sons,  Birmingham,  for 
a  collection  of  Sweet  Peas  ;  and  to  Messrs.  W.  Watson  &  Son,  Clontarf, 
Dublin,  for  Carnations  and  Picotees. 
■ - - 
Fruit  Forcing. 
^Vines. — Early  Houses. — The  Vines  now  have  the  wood  ripe,  the  buds 
plumped,  and  the  foliage  giving  indications  of  falling.  There  must 
be  no  attempt  at  removing  adhering  leaves,  or  to  cut  the  laterals  in 
all  at  once,  as  that  would  probably  cause  the  principal  buds  to  start ; 
therefore,  remove  the  laterals  by  degrees  and  shorten  some  of  the  long 
shoots,  preserving,  however,  some  growth,  especially  when  the  principal 
leaves  are  down,  above  the  buds  to  which  the  Vines  are  to  be  pruned, 
the  final  pruning  being  deferred  until  the  early  part  of  next  month. 
The  old  surface  soil,  top-dressing,  or  mulching  should  be  removed, 
forking  any  soil  unoccupied  by  fibres  from  amongst  the  roots,  taking 
advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  raise  those  that  are  deep  and  lay 
them  in  fresh  material  nearer  the  surface.  Good  calcareous  and  some¬ 
what  gritty  loam  is  the  most  suitable,  with  about  a  twentieth  of  wood 
ashes  and  a  fortieth  of  crushed  half-inch  bones. 
If  the  soil  be  light  and  gravelly  add  a  sixth  of  clayey  marl,  dried 
and  pounded  small ;  if  heavy,  supply  about  a  sixth  of  gritty  matter, 
such  as  calcareous,  or  ferruginous  or  freestone  chippings ;  if  deficient 
in  calcareous  material,  add  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  to  heavy 
soil  and  chalk  to  light  soil.  Charcoal  is  an  excellent  addition  in  any 
case  to  the  extent  of  one-tenth.  Give  a  moderate  watering  if  dry,  it 
sufficing  that  the  compost  be  evenly  moist,  and  the  roots  will  push  fresh 
rootlets,  especially  adventitious  ones,  from  near  the  collar  into  the  new 
soil,  and  be  in  excellent  condition  for  a  start  when  the  time  comes 
round.  If  the  Vines  are  in  an  unsatisfactory  state  the  border  should  be 
examined,  and  this  being  faulty  either  in  composition  or  drainage,  shade 
the  house,  lift  the  Vines,  wrap  the  roots  in  wet  mats,  promptly  remove 
the  old  soil  and  drainage,  supplying  sweet  and  clean  in  their  place, 
relaying  the  roots  in  the  fresh  compost  with  dispatch.  This  will  give 
the  Vines  a  chance  to  form  or  make  provision  for  pushing  fresh  roots, 
aud  so  effect  a  good  start. 
If  the  roots  are  long  and  bare  of  flbres  notch  them  on  the  under  and 
upper  side  alternately,  making  the  upper  cut  transversely  of  the  root 
and  not  more  than  half  through  the  root,  and  being  done  carefully  will 
not  prejudice  the  Vine,  but  induce  the  formation  of  a  callus  at  the 
several  points  and  new  roots  to  push  in  due  course.  When  lifting  or 
renovating  the  border  is  deferred  until  the  leaves  are  all  down  the  start 
is  not  nearly  so  satisfactory.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  after  the 
lifting  has  been  effected  the  shading  should  be  removed  and  the  house 
ventilated,  but  do  both  gradually,  so  as  not  to  give  a  savere  check  by 
sudden  change  of  circumstances. 
Midseason  Houses, — Vines  generally  have  done  well  this  season, 
but  there  has  been  an  unusual  prevalence  of  “  rust,”  “  scald,”  and 
“  spot,”  probably  due  to  the  changeableness  of  the  weather,  or  rather 
inattention  to  the  ventilation  in  such  manner  as  to  counteract  the 
prejudicial  influences  of  its  vicissitudes,  and  there  has  been  more  than 
the  usual  amount  of  shanking.  Grapes,  too,  have  been  slow  in  acquiring 
colour,  and  some  Vines  unusually  infested  with  red  spider.  For  this 
pest  there  is  no  better  remedy  than  feeding  the  Vines  with  a  good 
all-round  manure  and  maintaining  a  moisture  in  the  house  slightly 
charged  with  ammonia,  especially  in  the  latter  part  of  the  day.  If  the 
syringe  be  had  recourse  to  on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pest — for  it 
has  a  small  beginning — it  may  generally  be  prevented  from  spreading 
over  a  whole  house  and  without  prejudice  to  the  crop,  only  use  clear 
rain  water. 
Sponging  the  leaves  carefully  with  a  weak  solution  of  softsoap  is  a 
tedious  but  good  practice.  Thinly  coating  the  hot-water  pipes  with  a 
cream  formed  of  skim  milk  and  flowers  of  sulphur  gives  off  fumes 
hateful  to  the  pest  whefn  the  pipes  are  heated  to  170°  or  more,  this  being 
done  occasionally,  and  the  house  closed  for  an  hour  or  two  on  a  calm 
afternoon  or  early  evening.  A  surface  mulching  of  rich  but  not  close 
material  is  of  immense  advantage  to  Vines  on  light  soils  and  restricted 
borders,  with  supplies  of  liquid  manure  of  a  sustaining  rather  than  of  a 
stimulating  nature  are  essential  to  a  satisfactory  result.  Fire  heat  may 
only  be  necessary  where  Grapes  are  ripening  to  secure  a  circulation  of 
air,  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  so  preventing 
“  spot,”  which  has  affected  a  greater  variety  of  Grapes  this  season  than 
usual.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night  is  ample  for  Grapes  when 
ripening,  with  70°  to  75°  by  day,  allowing  5°  more  for  Muscats  and 
other  high  temperature-requiring  varieties,  and  advances  of  10°  to  15° 
from  sun  heat.  When  the  Vines  are  carrying  heavy  crops  the  tempera¬ 
ture  should  be  kept  rather  low  at  night,  so  as  to  give  time  and  rest  to 
the  Vines  in  order  to  perfect  them. 
Late  Houses. — When  Grapes  are  ripening  they  swell  considerably, 
and  require  due  supplies  of  nourishment,  but  it  is  a  mistake  to  make  the 
border  very  wet,  as  this  may  tend  to  defective  colouring  and  shanking. 
On  the  other  hand,  stopping  the  supplies  of  food  and  moisture  too  early 
may  result  in  the  Grapes  shrinking.  All  late  Grapes  require  time. 
They  ought  now  to  be  colouring  or  advanced  therein,  and  then  they, 
with  a  free  circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air  on  favourable  occasions, 
and  a  little  constant  ventilation,  attain  a  fulness  of  berry  and  a  perfec¬ 
tion  of  finish,  other  conditions  being  favourable.  Indeed,  poverty  of 
finish  is  the  chief  cause  of  shrivelled  Muscats  and  others  shrinking 
after  they  have  hung  some  time.  Afford  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  80°  to  90°  with  sun,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  increase  to 
90°  or  95°.  When  the  sun  is  losing  power  put  on  enough  top  and 
bottom  or  side  air  to  induce  a  circulation ;  allow  the  temperature  to 
gradually  cool,  which  rests  the  Vines,  and  increase  the  ventilation  early 
with  the  advancing  temperature.  The  pipes  should,  if  necessary,  have 
a  little  warmth  in  them  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  65°  at 
night,  for  parsimony  in  this  respect  is  often  costly,  as  having  to 
apply  fire  heat  late  in  the  season  is  more  expensive  and  the  result 
unsatisfactory. 
Tlie  Kitclien  Garden. 
Borecole  and  Broccoli. — The  long  spell  of  hot  dry  weather  seriously 
militated  against  all  operations  in  the  garden,  and  the  delay  in  planting 
Borecole  and  Broccoli  was  in  some  instances  unavoidable.  Since  the 
rain  has  fallen  much  planting  ought  to  have  been  done,  and  if  the 
ground  is  not  very  poor  the  progress  of  Borecole  and  Broccoli  ought 
to  be  rapid.  Plants  put  out  on  poor  ground  either  during  the 
dry  weather  or  since  should  be  assisted  with  liquid  manure,  with  a 
view  to  hastening  growth  in  time  for  it  to  mature  before  frosty 
weather  sets  in. 
Lettuce. — Should  the  autumn  prove  mild  Lettuce  from  seeds  sown 
now  may  attain  to  a  serviceable  size  before  frosts  intervene.  The 
quick  hearting  Cabbage  varieties,  such  as  Golden  Queen,  Early  Paris 
Market,  Commodore  Nutt,  and  All  the  Year  Round  are  most  suitable, 
but  the  Brown  and  White  Cos  varieties  may  also  heart-in  and  be  of 
good  service  for  storing  in  frames.  Warm,  well  manured  borders  are 
the  best  for  these  late  crops,  as  in  such  positions  they  continue 
