140 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  9,  1900. 
Henchera  sanguinea  from  Seeds  {Tyro), — Plant'i  from  seed  sown 
now  would  be  small  and  somewhat  difficult  to  winfer,  as  the  cold 
weather  will  be  here  before  they  become  established,  but  if  you  could 
give  the  plants  protection  some  of  the  strongest  would  afford  flowers 
next  season.  It  is  better  to  sow  this  and  other  perennials  in  the 
spring,  then  the  seedlings  have  a  chance  to  become  established  and 
sturdy,  so  as  to  be  capable  of  producing  abundance  of  bloom  the 
lollowiDg  year. 
Annuals  for  Spring  {T.  B.). — The  second  or  third  week  in  August  is 
a  good  time  for  sowing  the  seeds  of  Saponaria  calabrica,  both  red  and 
'white;  and  Gypsophila  elegans,  Alyssum  maritimnm,  and  Candytufts 
hnay  be  sown  at  the  same  time.  At  the  end  of  the  month  may  be  sown 
Wb  Isemophilas,  Virginian  Stocks,  Lasthenia  californica,  Limnanthes 
Douglasi,  Collinsias  bicolor,  grandiflora,  and  verna,  and  Erysimum 
Peroffskianum.  The  ground  for  them  should  be  light  and  good,  and  if  at 
all  dry  be  moistened  prior  to  sowing  the  seeds.  It  is  preferable  to  sow 
broadcast  and  thinly,  covering  the  seeds  with  a  little  fresh  soil.  Thus 
treated  the  seed  germinates  quickly,  and  the  seedlings  grow  sturdilv, 
3ittle  or  no  thinning  out  being  needed.  In  the  autumn  all  will 
transplant  readily,  and  will  be  much  more  hardy  than  those  drawn  up 
in  crowded  rows.  The  Silenes  ought  to  have  been  sown  in  July, 
and  the  Forget-me-nots,  Wallflowers,  Sweet  Williams,  Campanulas, 
Brompton  Stocks,  and  other  biennials  ip  May,  an^  tfc§  eegdlingg  pricked 
out  at  the  present  time,  btlt  a  sowing  of  the  first-named  c^in  he 
made  yet. 
<1  Margaret  (L.  C.  J.). — This  Apple  is  described  in  Dr.  Hogg’s 
Fruit  Manual”  as  follows; — “Fruit,  small,  2  inches  wide,  and  the 
same  in  height;  roundish  ovate,  and  narrowing  towards  the  eye,  where 
it  is  angular.  Skin,  greenish  yellow  on  the  shaded  side,  but  bright  red 
next  the  snn,  striped  nil  over  with  daiker  red,  and  strewed  with  grey 
Tussety  dots.  Eye,  half  open,  and  prominent,  with  long,  broad,  erect 
segments,  surrounded  with  a  number  of  puckered  knobs.  Stamens, 
median  ;  tube,  funnel-shaped.  Stalk,  short  and  thick,  about  half  an 
inch  long,  inserted  in  a  small  and  shallow  cavity.  Flesh,  greenish 
w  ite,  brisk,  juicy,  and  vinous,  with  a  pleasant  and  very  refreshing 
flavour.  Cells,  roundish  cvafe  or  obovate  ;  axile,  closed.  A  first-rate 
early  dessert  Apple ;  it  is  ripe  in  the  beginning  of  August,  but  does  not 
keep  long,  being  very  liable  to  become  mealy.  To  have  it  in  perfection, 
it  is  well  to  gather  it  a  few  days  before  it  riper  s  on  the  tree,  and 
thereby  secure  its  juicy  and  vinous  flavour.  The  tree  does  not  attain  a 
large  size,  being^  rather  a  small  grower.  It  is  a  good  bearer,  more  so 
than  the  Joaneting,  and  is  quite  hardy,  except  in  light  soils,  when  it  is 
liable  to  canker.” 
Packing  Grapes  {Young  Gardener).  —  You  will  find  that  the 
principal  point  is  to  pack  firmly,  so  that  the  Grapes  cannot  move 
about.  Boxes  are  preferable  to  baskets,  and  should  always  be  closely 
and  well  filled.  The  depth  of  the  box,  also  its  width,  will  be 
determined  by  the  size  of  the  bunch  or  bunches,  but  need  not  exceed 
o  inches  in  depth.  A  little  sweet,  clean  dry  moss  or  wood  wool 
should  be  placed  at  the  bott  om  of  the  box,  then  several  sheets  of 
thm  (tissue)  paper  placed  over  that,  lining  the  box  with  paper, 
and  one-half  the  top  sheets  hanging  free  for  the  purpose  of  being 
folded  over  when  the  box  is  filled.  The  bunches  should  be  laid  in 
the  box  as  cut,  beginning  at  one  end,  placing  them  with  the  stalks 
upwards,  as  closely  together  as  they  can  be,  and  keeping  them  well  up 
w  allow  for  settling.  The  larger  the  box  the  greater  the  care  required. 
When  the  box  seems  full  a  slight  shaking  whilst  holding  it  a  little  on 
One  side  will  cause  the  bunches  to  settle  down  still  closer,  when  one  or 
more  bunches  can  be  added,  or  if  not  room  for  them,  tissue  paper  may 
be  placed  in  the  hollow,  and  that  filled  with  cotton  wool.  After  filling 
the  box  the  paper  is  folded  over  the  top  of  the  Grapes,  and  all  the 
vacant  spaces  between  t  he  paper  and  the  sides  of  the  box  filled  with 
packing  material.  Nothing  but  the  paper  is  placed  on  the  Grapes  when 
they  quite  fill  the  box,  but  if  flat  and  too  low  a  sheet  or  two  of  cotton 
'Wool  may  be  placed  over  the  paper.  The  lid  is  then  screwed  down. 
Colax  jugosus  (T.  S-). — This  Orchid  is  of  dwarf  compact  habit, 
producing  flowers  of  great  beauty,  and  is  well  deserving  a  place  in 
every  amateur  s  collection,  no  matter  how  limited  the  accommodation. 
1  he  full  height  of  the  plant  seldom  exceeds  12  inches.  The  pseudo¬ 
bulbs  are  smooth,  somewhat  ovate,  and  about  3  inches  in  length  ;  from 
ese  it  produces  dark  gieen  leaves,  both  from  the  top  and  base;  the 
eaves  are  usually  from  6  to  8  inches  long,  and  about  1^  inch,  or  from 
t  to  2  inches,  bn  ad.  The  scape  springs  from  the  base  of  the  pseudo- 
u  b,  and  is  clothed  with  large  imbricating  scales,  bearing  upon  the  top 
scmetimes  three,  but  more  frequently  two,  somewhat  globose  flowers, 
which  when  expanded  are  about  2  inches  in  diameter.  The  sepals  are 
very  broad  indeed,  almost  round,  and  soft  cream  coloured  ;  the  petals 
are  also  very  broad,  bu’  more  oblong  than  the  sepals,  and  their  colour 
IS  pure  white,  beautifully  marked  with  transverse  bands  of  rich  dark 
purple ;  the  lip  is  small,  furrowed,  and  velvety ;  the  side  lobes  white 
striped  with  dotted  lines  of  deep  purple,  whilst  the  semi-circular  front 
lobe  IS  also  white,  dotted  and  striped  with  rich  velvety  purple.  By  this 
description  it  will  be  seen  that  Colax  jugosus  is  a  little  gem,  and  a  plant 
that  IS  not  likely  to  outgrow  the  convenience  of  even  the  smallest  stove  ; 
and  when  we  add  that  its  flowers  are  produced  very  freely  during  April 
and  May,  it  must,  we  think,  be  acknowledged  worthy  of  every  attention 
rom  all  lovers  of  the  chaste  and  beautiful.  We  have  found  it  succeed 
best  when  treated  in  every  respect  the  same  as  Cattleya  Mossim,  and, 
like  the  last-named  plant,  is  a  native  of  Brazil. 
Adiantum  Pacotti  (D.  G.  S.). — Yon  will  find  this  Fern  very  useful 
for  cutting;  it  is  too  heavy  for  many  purposes,  but  it  is  invaluable  for 
buttonholes.  In  spite  of  this,  however,  it  will  never  supplant  the  old 
variety  alluded  to  above,  for  it  will  not  yield  the  same  cquantity  of 
fronds.  The  fronds  are  stiff,  and  need  no  wiring.  To  do  it  well  it 
should  be  grown  in  slightly  warmer  temperature  than  A.  cuneatum,  and 
every  care  must  be  taken  that  water  does  not  fall  upon  the  fronds,  for 
they  are  so  thick  that  they  are  liable  to  damp.  During  hot  weather, 
when  plenty  of  air  can  be  given,  the  fronds  dry  quickly,  and  less  harm 
is  done. 
Layering  Carnations  (B.  N.  G.).— This  work  should  be  done  imme¬ 
diately.  The  plants  to  be  operated  upon  should  be  cleared  of  all  old 
flowers,  and  after  the  roughest  of  the  surface  soil  has  been  removed  a 
good  soaking  of  water  may  be  given.  Next  surround  them  with  a  good 
depth  of  loamy  compost,  with  which  plenty  of  road  grit  or  sharp  sand 
has  been  added.  Select  the  best  placed  shoots,  and  not  far  from  the 
centre  cut  them  half  through  just  under  a  joint,  next  cut  upwards 
through  the  joint,  and  then  peg  them  down  firmly  in  the  soil.  If  this 
is  properly  done,  and  a  little  water  given  occasionally  in  dry  weather, 
roots  soon  form  on  the  “  tongued  ”  joints,  and  in  due  course  a  well- 
rooted  plant  can  be  detached  and  transplanted  or  potted  without  any 
ch^ck  being  given, 
Growing  Malmaison  Carnations  for  Large  Mooms  (X.  f.  X.). — The 
treatment  accorded  to  the  plants  is  correct,  and  we  can  only  suggest 
that  the  potting  soil  is  not  sufficiently  substantial  and  the  feeding 
inadequate.  Use  three  parts  of  good  fibrous  yellow  sandy  loam  and 
one  part  decomposed  manure,  with  enough  sand  to  admit  of  the  free 
passage  of  water.  When  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  liquid  manure 
should  be  supplied,  the  plants  being  grown  in  plenty  of  light  and  given 
ample  space  so  as  to  induce  and  maintain  a  sturdy  habit.  A  pinch  of 
fertiliser,  such  as  those  advertised,  will  be  highly  beneficial.  It  must, 
however,  be  kept  from  the  foliage,  and  there  is  danger  ot  its  injuring 
the  rcots,  especially  the  delicate  root  hairs,  if  given  too  freely.  This 
applies  to  neatly  all  fertilisers,  hence  some  growers  prefer  to  apply 
them  in  liquid  form.  Then  the  blooms  are  thinned,  or  rather  the  buds, 
leaving  the  strongest  or  leading  growths  and  the  primary  or  finest  buds 
to  develop.  What  is  gained  by  large  blooms  is  greatly  discounted  by 
the  relatively  fewer  specimens,  and  this  must  be  taken  into  account 
from  a  commercial  point  of  view.  Perhaps  some  of  our  cot  respondents 
will  record  their  experience. 
Treatment  of  Arum  Lilies  {Amateur). — Cool,  airy  treatment  in  a 
light  position  near  the  glass  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  is  the  only  means 
of  keeping  Arum  Lilies  stocky.  They  should  not,  however,  be  placed 
in  any  of  these  positions  at  present,  but  be  kept  outdoors  until  frosts 
are  likely  to  occur.  An  entirely  cool  room,  except  when  severe  frosts 
prevail,  would  be  better  for  the  plants  than  one  having  a  fire  regularly, 
but  you  may  prevent  the  plants  growing  long,  to  some  extent  by  giving 
them  all  the  possible  light  and  air  on  favourable  occasions.  You  acted 
perfectly  right  in  placing  them  outdoors  as  you  have  done,  and  if  they 
are  moderately  pot-bound  they  will  naturally  grow  shorter  than  those 
having  the  run  of  rich  soil.  The  plants  do  not  always  die  completely 
down  in  summer  when  kept  moist  at  the  roots.  Some  of  the  largest 
old  leaves  have  probably  turned  yellow  or  may  do,  when  they  can  be 
detached.  A  suitable  compost  for  Arum  Lilies  consists  of  four  parts 
loam  to  one  of  manure  and  sand.  Drain  the  pots  well,  and  press  the 
soil  firmly  about  the  roots.  Plants  in  small  pots,  or  any  it  is  necessary 
to  increase  in  size,  may  be  repotted  now,  or  clumps  of  crowns  just 
starting  into  growth  may  be  divided  to  any  extent,  and  potted  in  sizes 
most  suited  to  each. 
Names  of  Plants. — We  only  undertake  to  name  species  of  cultivated 
plants,  not  wild  flowers,  or  varieties  that  have  originated  from  seeds  and 
termed  florists’  flowers.  Flowering  specimens  are  necessary  of  flowering 
plants,  and  Pern  fronds  should  bear  spores.  Specimens  should  arrive 
in  a  fresh  state  in  securely  tied  firm  boxes.  Thin  paper  boxes  arrive  in 
a  flattened  state.  Slightly  damp  moss,  soft  green  grass,  or  leaves  form 
the  best  packing,  dry  wool  or  paper  the  worst.  Those  arrive  in  the 
best  condition  that  are  so  olofely  or  firmly  packed  in  soft  green  fresh 
grass,  as  to  remain  unmoved  by  shaking.  No  specimens  should  be  sent 
to  rest  in  the  post  office  over  Sunday,  on  which  day  there  is  no  delivery 
of  postal  matter  in  London.  Specimens  in  partially  filled  boxes  are 
invariably  injured  or  spoiled  by  being  dashed  to  and  fro  in  transit.  Not 
more  than  six  specimens  can  be  named  at  once,  and  the  numbers  should 
oe  visible  without  unking  the  ligatures,  it  being  often  difficult  to 
separate  them  when  the  paper  is  damp.  {M.  C.  C.). — 1,  Argemone 
mexicana  ;  2,  Scabiosa  caucasica  ;  3,  Harpalium  rigidum ;  4,  Catananche 
bicolor;  5,  Calystegia  pubescens ;  6,  CEnothera  macrocarpa.  {A.  W.  P.). 
—  1,  Adiantum  elegans;  2,  Davallia  canariensis ;  3,  Adiantum 
Farleyense ;  4,  Asplenium  bulbiferum ;  5,  Nephrodium  molle;  6, 
''Jephrolepis  exalfata.  (B.  C.  E.). — 1,  Kerria  japonica  variegata;  2, 
Hydrangea  panioulata;  3,  Epilobium  angustifolium.  (S.  S.). — Lselia 
elegans.  {Q.E.M.). — 1,  Lilium  chalcedonicum ;  2,  Francoa  ramosa, 
the  Bridal  Wreath  Plant;  3,  Spiraea  filipendula;  4,  Alstromeria 
aurantiaca.  {G.  F.  J.). — 1,  Send  fresh  specimen ;  2,  Campanula 
glomerata  ;  3,  C.  rapunculoides  ;  4,  C.  r.  alba;  5,  Lysimachia  vulgaris. 
{E.  B.). — 1,  Lonicera  japonio.a  ;  2,  Sedum  spurium ;  3,  an  Achillea, 
send  when  in  flower.  {M.  G.  R.). — 1,  Bocconia  cordata ;  2,  Epilobium 
angustifolium  album,  the  white  variety  of  the  well  known  Willow-weed  ; 
3,  Spiraea  Billardi;  4,  OSnothera  Lamarckiana  ;  5,  a  poor  form  of 
Harpalium  rigidum  ;  6,  Mesembryanthemum  striatum  roseum. 
