148 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  16,  1900. 
Tomatoes  in  Winter. 
OuTDcoR  Toma'oes  that  are  rearly  ripe  on  the  approach  of  fro.st 
will  donbUess  be  gatheied  and  suspended  in  warm  houses.  That 
fruits  cut  in  a  grten  state  and  ripened  in  heat  are  scarcely  so  good  as 
these  left  on  the  plants  till  nearly  or  quite  ripe  I  readily  admit,  and 
in  any  case  it  is  advisable,  where  possible,  to  grow  a  few  plants  lor 
fruitirg  during  the  winter  and  till  more  are  raised  and  fruited  next 
spring.  1  had  a  few  late-raised  seedlings  which,  about  the  middle  of 
July,  were  shifted  into  13-inch  pots  and  set  in  a  sunny  position. 
Early  in  August  half  of  a  house  was  cleared  and  the  Tomatoes  intro- 
uced.  Tne  [growths  were  thinly  trained  over  the  roof  and  all  side 
shoots  kept  rubbed  out.  At  the  present  time  several  fine  clusters  of 
fruit  |are  set  on  each  plant,  and,  all  going  well,  good  fruit  will  be  cut 
from  them  throughout  the  winter. 
Tomatoes,  in  common  with  winter  Cucumbers,  are  all  the  better 
for  having  a  good  and  early  start,  and  rather  than  have  to  commence 
now  with  young  plants  newly  rooted  or  seedlings  I  would  much  prefer 
to  put  new  life  into  a  few  old  plants  in  pots.  These  may  be  freely  cut 
back,  this  inducing  the  formation  of  numerous  strong  young  growths, 
which  soon  arrive  at  a  bearing  state.  A  shift  into  fresh  pots  is  not 
necessary  or  advisable,  but  much  of  the  old  surface  soil  may  be  picked 
away  from  the  roots,  and  good  turfy  loam,  with  Mushroom- bed 
refuse  in  equal  quantities,  and  a  liberal  addition  of  superphosphate  of 
lime  added.  If  the  start  has  to  be  made  with  either  cuttings  rooted 
in  gentle  heat  or  seedlings,  they  may  first  be  potted  off  in  pairs  in 
6-mch  or  rather  larger  pots,  and  from  these,  before  they  are  drawn  or 
root-bound,  shifted  into  12-inch  pots. 
A  moderately  good  loamy  compost,  or  say  a  mixture  of  two  parts 
turfy  loam  to  one  of  either  leaf  roil  or  old  horse  droppings,  best  suits 
them,  and  they  ought  to  be  potted  rather  firmly,  a  good  space  being 
allowed  for  a  top-dressing  later  on.  In  whatever  manner  the  plants 
are  prepared,  or  whether  old  or}oung  plants,  it  is  unwise  to  plant 
them  in  a  rich  mound  of  soil,  as  much  heavier  crops  rre  obtained 
from  plants  in  pots  ret  on  a  bed  of  fairly  rich  soil.  Either  old  Melon 
or  Cucumber  ,beds  are  capital  sites  for  Tomatoes  in  pots,  the  latter 
being  set  nearly  on  the  surface,  or  only  just  deeply  enough  to  bury  any 
side  drainage  holes  there  may  be.  The  roots  soon  take  possession  of 
the  food  supply  in  the  bed,  while  the  pots  act  as  a  check  to  rank 
unfruitful  growth.  Any  without  this  available  rich  root-run  will 
require  much  more  liberal  treatment  in  the  way  of  top-diessings, 
plenty  of  water  and  liquid  manure,  and  if  well  attended  to  in  this 
respect  will  produce  remunerative  crops. 
Training  and  Temperature. 
It  is  not  from  want  of  good  attention,  however,  that  m,any  fail 
with  winter  Tomatoes,  but  rather  frem  being  over- zealous.  They 
either  give  too  much  beat  or  too  much  manure,  or  perhaps  the  two 
together,  the  result  being  very  rank  or  abundant  growth,  accompanied 
with  few  or  no  fruits.  Near  to  the  glass  the  plants  ought  always  to 
be  grown,  and  thinly,  and  on  no  account  should  much  manure  be 
given  at  the  outset.  First  get  a  good  crop  set,  and  then  leed  away 
to  your  heart’s  content  is  my  advice  and  that  of  other  experienced 
men.  Theie  is  no  real  necessity  to  ctnfine  a  plant  to  a  single  stem, 
especially  when- the  roots  have  access  lo  a  bed  of  soil  and  manure 
underneath.  On  the  contrary,  several  branches  may  be  laid  in 
provided  each  has  good  space  and  is  kept  fiee  of  all  side  shoots.  These 
main  branches  ought  to  be  trained  fully  12  inches  apart,  and  supposing 
the  plants  are  set  near  the  centie  of  a  long  low  roof,  as  in  our  case,  the 
shoots  may  be  taken  both  up  and  down  frem  the  same  plants.  When 
it  is  desired  to  grow  Bovuardias,  Poinsettias,  forced  bulbs,  fine-foliaged 
plants.  Ferns,  or  other  plants  under  the  Tomatoes,  the  main  branches 
of  the  latter  ought  to  be  trained  not  less  than  18  inches  apart,  and  it 
rank  foliage  is  lormed  this  also  should  be  slightly  reduced  in  size,  or 
everything  unc  eineath  it  will  be  unduly  shaded.  In  any  case  all 
supeifluous  growth  should  be  removed  as  fast  as  it  forms,  but  it  is 
unwise  to  stop  the  leading  growths  while  there  is  roof  space  that 
may  be  covered. 
Many  persons  succeed  in  covering  their  roofs  with  fine,  healthy 
plants,  every  detail  but  one  being  well  understood.  Where  they  err 
18  in  maintaining  a  higher  temperature  than  is  needed  or  suitable 
for  Tomatoes.  Stew  ed  up  in  a  house,  more  suited  as  far  as  tempera¬ 
tures  are  concerned  to  Pine  Apples,  the  trusses  of  flowers  are  certain 
to  be  weakly  and  devoid  of  pollen,  and  a  good  set  is  an  impossi¬ 
bility.  The  other  extieme,  or  a  greenhouse  temperature,  is  also  to 
be  avoided.  I  find  a  faiily  well  heated  house  is  needed,  much  the 
same  amount  of  fire  heat  being  given  as  ordinary  stove  plants  are 
supposed  to  require.  This,  however,  must  be  accompanied  with  air, 
little  or  much  according  to  the  external  temperatures,  seme  being 
left  on  all  night  in  mild  weather.  This  favours  the  production  of 
strong  flowers,  and  which,  if  smartly  tapped  towards  midday,  or  even 
syringed,  rarely  fail  to  set. 
At  the  present  time  not  less  than  9  inches  of  top  ventilation  [is  left 
on  the  Tomato  house  every  night,  but  less  will  be  given  in  colder 
weather,  or  when  we  wish  to  forward  the  fruit  more  rapidly.  I  am 
no  great  stickler  for  very  regular  or  even  temperatures  either  by  night 
or  by  day  in  the  fruit  houses  generally,  but  always  prefer  to  let  them 
drop  somewhat,  rather  than  heat  the  pipes  excessively.  I  hold  that 
the  temperatures  for  Tomatoes  may  safely  range  from  45°  to  60°  by 
night,  with  an  increase  in  the  daytime  of  from  5°  to  10°.  A  house 
kept  at  these  figures  does  not  need  to  be  damped  down  often,  nor  the 
plants  syringed  in  order  to  keep  down  red  spider.  If  the  most 
troublesome  pest,  a  small  white  fly  known  as  aleyrodes,  is  prevalent,, 
nothing  but  frequent  and  gentle  fumigations  will  rid  the  plants  of  it. 
When  lumigating  care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  too  much  hot  coal  or 
coke  in  starting  the  smoke,  and  on  no  account  should  it  be  allowed  to 
burn  strongly,  or  all  the  flow’ens  expanded  and  perhaps  some  of  the 
buds  will  b^e  crippled. — Practice. 
- - - 
Autumn  Sowing  of  Hardy  Annuals. 
Hardy  annuals  sown  during  August  and  early  September  are- 
among  the  most  effective  of  spring  flowering  plants.  Grown  and 
treated  in  this  manner  the  plants  are  usually  stronger,  better  rooted, 
more  bushy  in  character,  and  above  all  freer  in  flowering  than  the 
same  species  and  varieties  sown  in  spring.  Hardy  annuals  are  easily 
raised  from  seed,  but  the  most  difficult  part  of  their  cultivation  lies  in 
preserving  them  through  the  winter.  To  effect  this  end  in  the  best 
manner  it  is  important  to  commence  well  with  the  seed  sowing,  so  that 
from  the  first  strong  plants  may  develop. 
For  autumn  sowing  it  is  advisable  to  choose  a  position  that  is  warm, 
dry,  and  open,  and  one  that  is  not  subject  to  rough  winds,  exceptionally 
scorching  sunshine,  or  sudden  frost.  Taking  all  things  into  considera¬ 
tion,  a  gently  sloping  western  aspect  is  best  where  the  soil  is  well' 
drained.  The  ground  should  be  in  good  heart,  but  not  too  full  of  rich 
manure.  If  fairly  deeply  worked  and  in  a  fertile  condition  the  applica¬ 
tion  of  manure  will  be  unnecessary.  Recently  dug  light  soil  should 
be  made  firm,  treading  it  well  to  effect  this  when  moderately  dry. 
Make  it  fine  and  even  on  the  surface,  drawing  off  all  rough  stones  with 
a  rake. 
The  seed  of  all  the  species  of  annuals  to  be  recommended  for 
autumn  sowing  should  be  sown  in  drills.  Where  a  border  can  be  set 
apart  the  space  may  be  divided  into  beds  4  feet  wide.  The  drills  may 
be  drawn  not  less  than  6  inches  apart,  either  across  or  lengthwise  of 
the  bed.  Should  the  weather  prove  hot  during  the  last  week  of 
August  the  soil  will  be  too  dry  for  sowing.  After  the  drills  are 
drawn  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  moisten  them  thoroughly  prior  to 
sowing  the  seed.  The  moisture  will  be  retained  for  a  long  time, 
sufliciently  so  to  induce  rapid  germination  of  the  seed,  thus  promoting: 
an  early  and  vigorous  start. 
The  feeds  will  be  better  sown  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  as  soon, 
afterwards  as  the  seedlings  have  attained  some  size  the  first  thinning 
must  be  given.  Carry  out  the  thinning  to  the  extent  of  removing  the 
plants  as  they  touch  each  other  until  they  stand  at  least  4  inches  apart. 
Some  of  the  stronger  growing  which  seem  inclined  to  be  bushy  may 
stand  farther  apart  with  advantage.  Crowding  during  winter  is  fatal 
to  success,  inasmuch  as  crowded  plants  will  hold  and  retain  moisture. 
A  plant  standing  alone  becomes  wiry  and  strong,  and  is  able  to  resist 
the  inevitable  changes  of  temperature,  while  the  cousrant  circulation  of 
air  about  them  prevents  the  accumulation  ol  moisture,  which  often 
causes  more  destiuction  than  cold  or  frost.  With  well  spaced  out 
plants  the  hoe  may  be  used  freely  on  suitable  occasions.  This  tends 
to  promote  growth. 
The  majority  of  the  plants  will  not  attain  large  dimensions  before 
winter,  which  is  an  advantage.  Small  plants  with  fi'm  or  woody  stems 
pass  through  the  vicissitudes  of  the  dead  season  much  better  than 
overgrown  specimens. 
Annuals  which  may  be  sown  now  include  Candytuft.  It  grows  to 
the  height  of  12  inches,  and  has  white,  purple,  and  crimson  flowers; 
Collinsia  bicolor,  9  inches  high,  lilac  and  white  flowers;  Collinsia 
grandiflora  is  taller  growing,  being  12  inches  high,  the  flowers  dark 
purple;  Erysimum  Peroffakianum,  18  inches  h  gh,  irange  coloured 
flowers.  Larkspurs  produce  various  coloured  flowers.  The  dwarf 
Rocket  varieties,  which  grow  18  inches  high,  are  the  most  suitable  to 
sow  now.  Eucharidium  concinnum,  lilac  purple;  Viscaria  cardinalis,. 
rose  and  crimson  ;  and  Whitlavia  grandiflora,  violet,  are  all  a  foot  high 
when  fully  grown.  The  following  are  6  inches  in  height  : — -Limnanthes 
Douglasi,  yellow  and  white;  Nemophila  insignis,  blue  shades  and. 
white  ;  Saponaria  calabrica,  rose ;  and  Virginian  Stock,  crimson  red 
and  white.  Nemophila  atomaria,  white  and  black  spots,  and  Saponaria. 
calabrica  alba  compacts,  white,  are  4  inches  in  height. — E.  D.  S. 
