August  30,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
205 
CARDEN,  Cl^EANINCS  > 
Storlngr  A.pples. — The  chief  point  to  attend  to  in  the  preservation 
of  fruit  is  to  handle  it  with  the  greatest  care,  not  casting  the  Apples 
into  baskets  and  turning  them  out  roughly,  as  if  this  is  done  bruises  are 
made,  though  they  may  not  be  apparent  at  the  time,  and  decay  is 
incited.  A  cool  dark  cellar  or  shed  is  suitable,  but  with  the  windows  or 
door  opened  occasionally  for  the  dispersion  of  moisture  for  a  week  or 
two  after  the  fruit  is  stored.  A  very  dry,  light,  and  warm  place  is  not 
recommended,  as  in  such  the  fruit  is  apt  to  shrivel. — D. 
Brodlaea  laxa. — This  is  a  very  handsome  species,  producing 
slender  many-flowered  stems,  which  vary  greatly  in  height.  Those 
flowering  with  me  are  about  a  foot  high  ;  the  perianth  is  tubular  bell¬ 
shaped,  1^  inch  long,  of  a  rich  tyrian  purple,  but  the  colour  varies.  I 
have  seen  it  much  paler — indeed,  a  dull  purple  or  pale  blue  ;  it  also 
has  its  albino  form,  which  is,  however,  very  scarce.  I  have  bulbs,  but 
not  yet  strong  enough  to  flower.  B.  Bridges!  is  very  like  B.  laxa,  but 
the  perianth  is  not  so  long,  and  there  are  points  of  difference  in  the 
stipe  supporting  the  ovary  and  the  filaments  ;  but  these  are  points 
which  the  ordinary  gardener  cares  little  about,  suffice  it  if  any  plant 
is  superficially  distinct.  These  both  thrive  under  the  same  conditions 
as  B.  ixioides. — Flora. 
Scblzanthuses  for  Spring. — These  are  very  valuable  greenhouse 
plants,  and  very  suitable  either  for  spring  or  autumn  sowing,  the  former 
to  yield  plants  for  flowering  in  summer,  the  latter  for  spring.  Seeds  may 
be  sown  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  August  for  spring  flowering. 
Sow  thinly  in  4  or  5-inch  pots,  and  place  in  a  cold  frame  as  soon  as  the 
young  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  ;  thin  them  out,  leaving  five  or 
six  in  a  pot,  and  keep  them  sturdy  by  giving  plenty  of  air  in  fine 
weather.  If  severe  weather  set  in,  remove  to  a  shelf  near  the  glass 
in  a  cool  greenhouse.  When  the  plants  show  for  flower,  which  should 
be  about  the  end  of  February,  give  a  little  weak  liquid  manure  about 
twice  a  week.  They  may  be  had  in  flower  about  the  end  of  June  by 
sowing  in  pots,  as  mentioned  above,  on  a  gentle  hotbed,  towards  the  end 
of  March.  Harden  them  when  out  of  danger  from  frost,  and  stand 
out  on  a  cool  bottom  until  they  flower.  The  next  sowing  may  be  placed 
in  a  cold  frame,  and  by  sowing  about  once  a  month  until  the  end  of 
June  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  had  from  June  until  the  end  of 
October.  The  soil  may  be  three  parts  turfy  loam,  one  of  good  leaf 
soil,  sand,  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  soot,  mixed  well  together. 
S.  pinnatus  is  much  used  for  growing  in  pots,  but  S.  retusus  is  more 
beautiful,  and  considerably  dwarfer.  Well-grown  plants  of  this  annual 
are  superb  objects. — F. 
The  Hollyhock.  —  The  Hollyhock  takes  such  a  high  position 
among  autumn-flowering  plants  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  speak  in 
its  praise.  I  can  add,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  that  no  other 
plant  grown  combines  the  qualities  suitable  for  shrubbery  and  border 
decoration  to  the  same  extent  as  the  Hollyhock.  It  is  easily  cultivated, 
requiring  only  a  little  protection  through  the  winter— a  few  coal  ashes 
shaken  over  the  crowns  and  removed  in  early  spring  being  all  that  is 
required.  It  is  generally  propagated  either  by  seed  (and  seedlings 
make  the  best  plants)  or  by  cuttings — single  eyes  taken  off  in  August 
and  inserted  in  light  soil  in  pans  well  drained  and  plunged  in  a  frame  in 
leaves  or  tan,  so  as  to  have  the  assistance  of  a  little  bottom  heat.  This 
is  a  quick  method  of  working  up  a  stock.  Give  air  as  required  when 
the  eyes  have  made  a  little  growth,  and  when  they  are  sufficiently 
rooted  pot  the  young  plants  singly  in  3-inch  pots,  and  replace  them  m 
a  close  frame  for  a  few  weeks,  and  when  the  pots  become  full  of  roots 
give  the  plants  a  shift  into  6-inoh  pots,  using  one-half  of  rich  loam, 
one-fourth  of  well-decayed  manure,  and  one  part  of  leaf  soil,  with  a 
good  admixture  of  silver  sand,  all  well  mixed  together.  At  this  stage 
the  plants  may  be  placed  in  a  cool  pit  or  frame  for  protecting  them 
through  the  winter,  admitting  plenty  of  air  on  all  favourable  oppor¬ 
tunities.  They  will  be  ready  for  the  open  ground  in  spring.  To  increase 
by  seed,  the  seed  should  be  gathered  early  in  the  autumn  from  the  most 
double  blooms  of  the  finest  shape  and  colour.  Sow  it  in  pans,  and  give 
the  seedlings  the  same  treatment  throughout  the  plauts  from  single 
eyes.  I  have  practised  this  mode  of  culture,  and  have  found  it  most 
satisfactory. — J. 
Gas  Xlme. — The  usefulness  of  gas  lime  for  land  is  becoming 
better  known  every  year,  and  the  proper  time  to  apply  it  is  directly 
the  corn  crops  are  carted  home.  But  it  must  not,  says  a  contemporary, 
be  put  on  “  seed  ”  fields,  because  if  applied  fresh  and  in  quantity  it 
kills  all  vegetable  life.  Albeit,  when  it  has  lost  its  sulphur,  which  it 
does  in  a  few  months,  it  is  no  longer  injurious  to  plant  life,  but 
succours  it,  and  acts  as  a  potent  fertiliser.  It  acts  most  usefully  when 
fresh  in,  killing  all  kinds  of  creature  pests  in  the  soil,  which  are  very 
destructive  to  crops  in  miny  fields.  Tipula  grubs,  slugs,  and  wire- 
worms  are  the  worst  pests,  but  gas  lime  kills  them  when  applied  properly 
— that  is,  in  sufficient  quantity  and  quite  fresh. 
Grapes  Shanking-. — Many  gardeners  would  tell  you  the  best 
remedy  for  shanking  is  sulphur  on  the  pipes.  If  shanking  were  caused 
by  fungus  this  would  unquestionably  be  an  effectual  remedy ;  but 
unfortunately  for  the  fungus  theory,  as  well  as  the  proposed  remedy, 
there  is  the  fact  that  till  within  the  last  few  years  almost  every  grower 
was  in  the  habit  of  placing  sulphur  on  the  pipes  for  another  purpose, 
and  it  did  not  prevent  the  shanking.  Shanking  is  always  caused  by  a 
vitiated  or  a  deficient  supply  ;  it  may  be  owing  to  the  want  of  sufficient 
foliage  or  of  healthy  roots  ;  it  may  be  from  the  lack  of  some  essential 
ingredient  in  the  soil,  or  from  insufficient  water.  Generally  speaking, 
if  the  foliage  is  good,  a  little  stimulant  administered  to  the  roots  with 
warm  water  will  temporarily  check  the  evil.  The  plan  of  cutting  off 
the  shanked  part  is  of  no  avail  except  for  appearance. — T.  W. 
Cllanthus  Dampleri. — Until  this  year  I  have  failed  to  flower 
this  most  charming  plant.  It  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Parrot- 
beak  Plant  and  the  Glory  Pea  of  New  Zealand.  The  first  time  I  saw 
it  in  flower  I  was  so  struck  with  its  beauty  that  I  determined  to  grow 
it,  but  I  have  failed  until  now.  I  sowed  seed  year  after  year  as  recom¬ 
mended  in  the  catalogues  and  books.  The  seedlings  came  up,  attained 
6  or  8  inches  in  height,  and  then  damped  oS.  This  Clianthus  is  an 
annual  or  biennial.  Some  sow  it  in  the  autumn  and  flower  it  in  the 
following  summer,  treat  it,  in  fact  as  a  biennial — a  bad  plan,  as  the 
chances  are  that  it  will  not  survive  the  winter.  I  now  give  what  I 
consider  to  be  the  whole  secret  of  success.  On  the  1st  of  February 
put  two  seeds  in  the  pot  in  which  the  plants  are  intended  to  flower— 
an  8-inoh  pot  is  quite  sufficient.  For  soil  use  turfy  loam  and  a  little 
well  decomposed  dung,  with  a  mixture  of  silver  sand  j’charcoal  drainage 
is  good,  and  a  little  turfy  flbre  to  surround  the  collar  of  the  plant  I 
consider  is  of  great  importance.  Plunge  the  pot  or  pots  to  the  rim  in  a 
brisk  bottom  heat,  and  if  a  square  of  glass  is  placed  over  them  the 
seeds  will  germinate  sooner.  If  one  seed  germinates  it  is  well,  but  if 
two  vegetate  it  is  better.  By  no  means  separate  them,  as  two  plants 
make  rather  a  better  display.  Overwatering  is  fatal ;  give  only  a  little 
when  they  are  in  need  of  it.  Plenty  of  light  and^air  must  be  afforded. 
— M.  N.  C. 
Kosa  setlgera. — When  the  month  of  August  comes  round  a  great 
many  of  the  climbing  Roses  have  gone  out  of  ^flower,  or  at^best  only 
produce  a  few  scattered  blooms,  so  that  a  Rose  which  will  flower  late  is 
a  decided  acquisition.  The  subject  of  this  note — the  Prairie  Rose  of 
North  America — is  a  beautiful  species  which  has  a  very  pretty  effect  in 
a  garden  during  August.  It  is  a  first-rate  rambling  Rose,  spreading 
rapidly  in  all  directions  once  it  is  fairly  established,  and  soon  ^forming 
a  dense  mass  of  stout  shoots,  which  in  season  are  covered  with  J  flowers. 
The  flowers  are  single,  deep  pink  in  colour,  turning  paler  with^age,  and 
borne  in  large  trusses  of  twenty  to  thirty  or  more  flowers  in  each. 
There  are,  however,  two  forms  of  this  plant,  one  of  whichjhas  flowers 
about  the  size  of  those  of  the  Dog  Rose,  while  the  leaves  are  narrow 
and  smooth  on  both  sides.  The  other  form  has  flowers  'about  twice  the 
size  of  the  preceding,  and  rather  deeper  in  colour,  and  the  leaves  are 
broader  and  more  rugose,  and  covered  beneath  with  a  thick jpubescence. 
These  two  forms  are  extremely  variable,  as  if  cuttings  are  taken  from 
a  plant  of  either  sort  both  will  be  found  to  appear  in ’the  resulting 
plants,  while  older  specimens  are  liable  to  change  from  year  to  year, 
though  it  is  doubtful  if  both  forms  have  ever  yet  been  found  on  the 
same  plant.  There  is,  however,  need  of  more  extended^observations  on 
a  larger  scale  to  properly  determine  this  change  of  form  and  its 
limitations.  R.  setigera  succeeds  best  in  a  fairly  heavy,''but  not  too 
rich  soil,  and  requires  no  pruning  except  the  cutting  lout  ^of  dead  wood 
and  weakly  branches,  which  is  best  done  immediatelyjafter  flowering. 
On  no  account  should  any  growths  be  shortened Jback.  It^is  a  plant 
which  would  be  useful  for  hybridising,  but  though  it  has  been  tried 
many  times  it  has  not  up  to  the  present  produced  auy^resnlt,  but  at 
best  it  is  shy  at  setting  fruit.  It  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings. — C. 
