234 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  G,  1900, 
TO  CORRESPONDENTS 
All  cirrespondence  relatina:  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  mitre  Court  Cbambers,  rieet  Street, 
Iiondon,  E.c.  It  is  reqio  sted  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking;  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Tomato  Fruits  Patchy  (J.  W.  D.). — It  is  difficult  to  account  for  the 
peculiarities  in  the  fruit,  though  it  is  of  common  occurrence,  not  only 
in  Tomatoes,  but  in  Apples.  It  probably  arises  from  an  excess  of 
acids  at  some  stage  of  the  fruit’s  growth,  which  breaks  down  the  cell 
walls  in  certain  parts  of  the  fruit,  causing  them  to  run  together.  The 
affected  parts  are  rich  in  sugar,  though  deficient  in  malic  acid  ;  thus 
the  part  or  parts  affected  do  not  change  colour  or  become  soft  in  the 
ripening.  This  is  all  that  has  been  revealed  by  analysis,  cellulose 
taking  the  place  of  pulp.  It  has  been  considered  that  the  defect  arises 
from  the  plants  not  receiving  a 
sufScient  supply  of  potash,  especi¬ 
ally  in  nitrate  form,  and  this  is 
borne  out  to  some  extent  by  ex peri- 
ment,  as  a  supply  of  this  element 
has  reduced  the  tendency  to  a  great 
extent,  and  in  some  cases  dressings 
of  nitrate  of  soda  have  given  good 
results. 
Pit  for  Growing  Melons  and 
Cucumbers  (H.  S.). —  Whether  a 
span-roofed  pit  facing  south  and 
running  east  and  west  would  be  as 
suitable  for  growing  Melons  and 
Cucumbers  as  a  span-roofed  pit  with 
ends  north  and  south  is  a  somewhat 
difficult  question  to  answer,  as  so 
much  depends  upon  requirements. 
We  therefore  give  the  results  of  our 
experience.  In  the  case  of  a  span- 
roof  pit  facing  south  and  running 
east  and  west  we  found  that  the 
plants  of  Melons  were  most  satis¬ 
factory  on  the  south  side  of  the 
house,  whether  early,  midseason,  or 
a'’e  crops,  these  being  earlier  in 
ripening  and  the  fruit  of  better 
quality.  In  respect  of  Cucumbers 
the  plants  on  the  south  side  of  the 
pit  were  the  most  satisfactory  in  the 
autumn,  winter,  and  early  spring, 
but  after  March  those  on  the  north 
side  were  better  in  health  and  crop¬ 
ping  and  gave  less  trouble  in  shading.  Taking  note  of  these  facts  we 
were  able  in  another  case  of  a  pit  running  east  and  west  to  turn  them 
to  advantage  where  both  Cucumbers  and  Melons  were  required  from 
the  same  structure,  and  both  in  request  from  an  early  to  a  late  period. 
The  Cucumber  plants  were  grown  on  the  north  side,  and  the  Melon 
plants  on  the  south  side  of  the  pit. 
Nectarines  and  Peaches  Unsatisfactory  (Tyrone).  —  The  two 
Nectarine  trees  on  the  back  wall  of  Peach  house  in  a  narrow  border 
about  20  inches  wide  along  the  side  of  path,  under  which  is  laid  the 
main  pipes  for  heating  Melon  and  other  houses,  cannot  be  expected  to 
give  satisfactory  crops  of  fruit,  as  the  roots,  from  the  narrowness  of  the 
border,  are  not  able  to  extend  horizontally  and  push  fibrelets  near  the 
surface.  Owing  to  this  the  roots  must,  of  necessity,  take  a  downward 
course  and  penetrate  deeply,  probably  into  unfavourable  strata  beneath 
the  drainage.  The  best  remedy  for  the  bud  dropping  is  lifting,  as  this 
results  in  pleuteousness  of  fibres,  and  then  with  due  supplies  of  water  the 
trees  make  a  healthy  growth,  and  are  not  so  prone  to  over-maturity  of 
the  buds,  which  is  a  common  cause  of  the  dropping.  This,  however,  is  not 
practicable  in  your  case,  therefore  it  would  be  advisable  to  remove  the 
soil  carefully  from  over  and  amongst  the  roots,  cutting  off  the  suckers 
close  to  whence  they  issue,  and  supply  fresh  soil  of  rather  a  strong 
nature,  packing  it  closely  about  them,  and  firming  well.  It  should  be 
done  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  all  down,  afterwards  giving  a  good 
watering,  and  taking  care  that  the  soil  does  not  become  dry  afterwards 
during  the  resting  season.  In  the  narrow  border  the  trees  will  require 
much  more  frequent  watering  than  were  they  in  ordinary  rooting 
area.  It  is  well  also  to  allow  a  little  extension  to  the  laterals,  especially 
rather  late  in  the  season,  as  this  tends  to  promote  root  action  and 
supply  nutriment  for  the  perfecting  of  the  buds. 
Fig.  62. — Apple  Goodwood  Pippin. 
Apple  Goodwood  Pippin  (J.  F.  de  M.). — This  Apple  received  an 
award  of  merit  from  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society  in  1896,  when  it 
was  shown  by  Mr.  R.  Parker,  gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Richmond  and 
Gordon.  The  fruit  is  above  medium  size,  83  wide  and  3  inches  high ; 
roundish,  narrowing  slightly  to  the  apex  ;  in  shape  smooth  and 
symmetrical ;  colour  yellow,  occasionally  splashed  with  red  on  the 
shaded  side,  and  studded  with  numerous  very  small  russety  dots ; 
sun  side  flushed  with  red  and  marked  with  several  broken  streaks  of 
crimson  ;  eye  large  and  partially  open,  set  in  a  wide,  shallow,  and  very 
slightly  puckered  basin  ;  stalk  slender,  short,  within  the  level  of  the 
fruit,  deeply  inserted  in  a  russet-lined  cavity,  some  of  the  fruits  having 
a  fleshy  protuberance  next  the  stalk  ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  tender,  yet 
crisp,  and  pleasantly  flavoured.  A  good  Apple,  and  suitable  either  for 
dessert  or  culinary  purposes. 
Frenoli  Beans  after  Tomatoes  (Beginner). — To  have  French  Beans  at 
the  end  of  January  and  the  first  half  of  February  the  seed  should  be 
sown  about  the  middle  of  November.  If  you  clear  out  the  Tomatoes 
by  the  last  week  in  October,  and  sow  the  French  Beans  then  or  the  first 
week  in  November,  the  plants  would  probably  give  pods  fit  to  gather 
at  the  time  you  name,  or  before.  The  Beans  should  be  planted  an 
inch  deep,  and  in  rows  2  feet  apart,  thinning  the  plants  to  about 
6  inches  distance  asunder,  or  the  stronger-growing  sorts  may  be 
thinned  to  9  or  12  inches  distance.  It  is  not  a  good  plan  to  attempt 
too  much,  and  from  our  experience  the  growing  of  French  Beans  does 
not  pay  from  sowings  made  before  the  early  part  of  January,  the  crop 
being  in  towards  the  end  of  February.  Earlier  the  price  may  be 
higher,  but  the  crop  discounts  the 
returns  to  such  extent  as  to  render 
it  unprofitable. 
Feach  Trees  in  Cool  House  in¬ 
fested  with  Mildew  (Tyrone). — The 
trees  in  the  cool  house  should  have 
been  dressed  with  flowers  of  sulphur 
on  the  first  appearance  of  the 
disease,  repeating  this  occasionally 
until  the  pest  had  been  subdued. 
In  stubborn  oases  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  have  recourse  to  rub¬ 
bing  the  fruit  with  the  sulphur 
where  the  mildew  appears.  In  the 
case  of  a  cool  house  great  care 
is  necessary  in  ventilating  in  spring 
and  early  summer,  especially  during 
spells  of  cold,  dry,  sharp  weather, 
then  admitting  air  by  the  upper 
lights  only,  or  by  the  front  or  side 
ventilators,  whilst  keeping  the  top 
lights  closed  on  account  of  un¬ 
favouring  wind  direction,  so  that 
the  rush  of  air  is  outwards,  and 
thus  drives  away  the  spores  of  the 
fungus.  On  the  other  hand,  when 
the  early  day  ventilation  of  fruit 
houses  is  neglected  in  bright,  yet 
cold  weather,  and  the  bottom  as 
well  as  the  top  ventilators  are 
thrown  open,  the  external  air  rushes 
in,  and  with  it  the  mildew  spores. 
In  your  case,  that  of  a  cool  house, 
syringing  cannot  be  practised  so  much  as  in  heated  structures,  oj/herwise 
forcible  syringing,  especially  with  water  at  a  temperature  of  130  to  13  , 
is  the  best  preventive  and  remedy  for  mildew.  What  we  now  advise  is 
the  syringing  of  the  trees  where  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  wit  a 
solution  of  softsoap,  8  ozs. ;  flowers  of  sulphur,  4  ozs. ;  and  5  gallons  o 
water,  thoroughly  dissolved  and  mixed.  As  the  leaves  fall  collect  an 
burn  them,  also  all  prunings.  Then  wash  the  trees  with  the  solution 
just  mentioned  at  double  strength,  using  a  brush,  but  taking  care  not  o 
dislocate  the  buds.  The  surface  soil  of  the  border  should  also  e 
cleared  away,  and  a  suitable  top-dressing  applied.  Likewise  thoroug  y 
cleanse  the  floor.  In  the  spring,  as  soon  as  the  trees  start  into  grow  , 
dust  the  tender  growths  and  fruits,  or  it  may  be  blossoms,  with  flowers 
of  sulphur,  and  especially  after  the  fruit  is  set,  as  a  preyentive,  an 
repeat  occasionally,  it  being  important  that  the  sulphur  be  applied  in 
advance  of  an  attack  of  mildew. 
Orange  Tree  Gumming  (H.  R.  D.). — It  is  extremely  difficult  to  stop 
gumming  in  any  tree  having  a  tendency  to  it  by  outward  applications. 
If  the  gumming  be  a  consequence  of  injury  to  the  bark  by  a  knock  or 
otherwise,  then  cutting  out  down  to  the  wood,  so  as  to  remove  the 
gummed  part,  drying  with  quicklime,  and  covering  the  wound  with 
grafting  wax  over  a  ligature  of  cotton  is  probably  the  best  remedy. 
If  it  arises  from  constitution,  then  the  plant  should  be  repotted, 
and  this  is  the  best  time  to  repot  or  retub  Orange  trees.  Turn 
out  the  plant,  removing  as  much  of  the  soil  as  practicable  without 
injury  to  the  roots,  clean  out  the  tub,  see  that  the  drainage  is  clear,  and 
supply  fresh  compost,  made  moderately  firm  but  not  very  light.  Good 
turfy  loam,  neither  light  nor  heavy,  torn  up  rather  roughly,  four  parts, 
one  part  decayed  manure  free  from  worms,  one  part  old  mortar  rubbish 
free  from  pieces  of  wood  and  broken  small,  and  a  sprinkling  of  half-inch 
