September  13,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
241 
Early  Hoot-prnniDg  Fruit  Trees. 
'  The  usual  time  for  general  root-pruning  over-luxuriant  fruit  trees 
“with  a  view  to  inducing  them  to  form  fruit  spurs  and  make  less 
useless  wood  growth  is  just  about  when  the  leaves  are  falling,  and 
from  thence  onwards  through  the  winter.  This  period,  according  to 
all  orthodox  practice,  is  a  suitable  time,  and  good  results  will,  if  the 
work  is  carried  out  properly,  eventually,  if  not  immediately,  follow. 
Koot-pruning  is  a  process  capable  of  giving  a  sudden  and  effective 
check  to  the  rapid  and  strong  growth  ot  a  tree,  hence  some  judgment 
is  required  not  to  carry  out  the  work  severely  at  any  one  time,  and  it 
is  pussible  to  do  this  by  carelessly  severing  the  strong  roots  all  round 
the  tree  at  the  same  time.  It  has  been  the  practice  for  many  years  of 
some  growers  to  root-prune  in  September  when  the  leaves  are  on  the 
trees.  The  work  has  been  carried  out  earlier,  and  with  good  results 
following.  '  The  greatest  i  possible  care, 
however,  has  been  exercised,  first,  not 
to  Operate  on  more  than  one-half  of  the 
roots  at  the  same  time,  not  to  cut  them 
in  too  closely,  and  to  carry  out  the  work 
expeditiously.  All  these  are  points  of 
double  importance  when  the  operation  of 
root-pruning  is  effected  at  an  early  date. 
Root- pruning  is  only  practised  on  trees 
restricted  in  size,  shape,  and  formally 
trained.  By  subjecting  trees  to  restric¬ 
tion,  growth  is  constantly  being  checked, 
and  if  the  roots  have  a  free  run  the 
shortening  and  checking  of  the  wood  only 
serves  to  induce  stronger  growth.  To 
counteract  this  to  some  extent  Pear  trees 
are  worked  on  Quince  stocks  and  Apples 
on  Paradise  stocks,  both  these  having  a 
tendency  to  form  fibrous  roots  near  the 
surface,  while  Pear  and  Crab  stocks 
descend  deeply,  hence  the  latter  are  not 
suitable  for  restricted  trees  unless  constant 
lifting  and  root-pruning  is  resorted  to. 
Trees,  however,  grown  on  dwarfing  stocks 
are  found  sometimes  to  extend  their  roots 
beyond  a  suitable  area,  and  the  result  is 
seen  in  overgrown  branches  and  fruitless 
wood.  The  best  way  to  avoid  a  serious 
amount  of  root-pruning  is  to  lift  and 
replant  trees  and  bushes  of  portable  size 
before  they  have  a  chance  of  growing 
beyond  government.  The  next  best 
method  is  to  prevent  roots  extending 
beyond  a  certain  circle.  This  slight 
check  given  periodically  would  render 
further  root-pruning  unnecessary.  Trees, 
however,  which  have  been  long  established 
forming  roots  which  extend  strongly  in  a 
lateral  direction  and  almost  certainly  per¬ 
pendicularly,  are  likely  to  be  fruitless. 
Strong  growth  is  made  from  the  spurs, 
the  latter  suffering  because  the  buds  are 
deprived  of  support. 
Although  it  is  not  desirable  to  carry 
out  all  the  root-pruning  thus  early,  it  is 
advisable  to  experiment  on  a  few  trees. 
Cut  a  trench  half  way  round  the  tree  3  feet  from  trunk.  If  a 
large  tree  the  trench  must  be  at  a  wider  distance.  The  strong 
roots  met  with  in  descending  should  be  cut  off,  and  eventually  have 
their  ends  pared  and  left  smooth.  The  small  roots  met  with  ought 
to  be  preserved  and  not  destroyed.  When  the  trench  has  been 
dug  to  the  depth  of  2  feet,  undermine  the  ball  of  roots  and  cut 
off  a  portion  of  those  descending  perpendicularly.  It  is  important 
to  reach  these  roots,  as  their  strength  and  length  is  the  cause 
of  the  sappy  unfruitful  growth.  They  descend  into  uncongenial 
subsoil.  Be  ore  leaving  them  pare  smoothly,  and  pack  good  soil  about 
them.  When  the  work  is  done,  during  a  dry  period  the  smaller  roots 
should  be  kept  covered  with  some  moist  material  until  fresh  compost 
can  be  worked  about  them.  Htving  cut  and  shortened  the  strong 
roots,  the  next  process  is  that  of  filling  in  fresh  compost  about  them. 
This  may  be  good  fibrous  loam,  mixed  with  the  staple  soil  taken  out  of 
trench.  If  the  whole  is  intermixed  with  wood  ashes  this  will  improve 
it.  Place  it  in  the  trench  and  make  it  firm.  The  small  or  fibrous  roots 
retained  ought  to  be  laid  carefully  in  it  as  the  filling  in  proceeds. 
A  thorough  watering  should  be  given  the  whole  as  soon  as  finished, 
including  the  space  between  the  trunk  and  the  trench.  It  will  also 
be  advisable  to  place  a  light  mulching  of  manure  over  the  roots. 
Previous  to  root-pruning  shorten  the  long  strong  shoots  on  the  trees, 
and  thin  out  any  crowded  branches. 
In  the  management  of  young  trees  a  milder  form  of  root-pruning 
should  be  adopted,  carrying  this  out  just  before  the  leaves  fall.  If 
fairly  well  supplied  with  fibrous  roots  the  trees  may  be  lifted  and 
replanted  at  once,  the  root-pruning  simply  consisting  of  shortening 
back  any  strong  shoots  which  may  be  exlt-nding  beyond  their  neigh¬ 
bours.  Young  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  Cherries,  Peaches,  Nectarines, 
and  Apricots  may  -be  treated  thus  if  they  have  not  been  planted  more 
than  two  years.  It  might  be  risky  to  do  this  with  older  trees,  as  they 
will  have  a  stronger  root  system,  not  being  so  well  furnished  with 
fibres.  It  is,  however,  advisable  to  check  this  tendency,  and  induce 
a  freer  formation  of  fibrous  roots,  these  alone  giving  a  fruitful 
character  and  inducing  an  evenly  balanced  growth.  Endeavours 
ought  to  be  made  to  avoid  some  of  the  causes  which  induce  or 
encourage  a  fruitless  character.  The  absence  of  summer  pruning  is  a 
primary  cause  of  strong  wood  growth. 
It  is  promoted  by  bard  cutting  back  in 
winter.  This  continued  for  several  years 
acts  upon  the  roots,  causing  them  to 
extend.  The  more  they  do  so,  and  the 
more  cutting  back  done  in  winter,  the 
stronger  and  less  fruitful  will  be  the  trees. 
Rich  soil  and  too  much  moisture  and 
stimulants  applied  to  young  trees  prove 
detrimental  in  the  long  run  by  promoting 
gross  growth.  Dryness  in  the  surface 
soil,  and  the  consequent  absence  of 
support  and  food  for  the  roots,  causes 
them  to  descend  deeper,  which,  of  course, 
promotes  a  strong  and  sappy  growth. 
Annual  mulching  in  summer  to  prevent 
moisture  evaporating  rectifies  this  to  some 
extent.  Train  all  th^e  forms  of  trees  with¬ 
out  crowding  from  the  first.  Endeavour 
to  promote  an  evenly  balanced  growth  of 
branches,  and  encourage  healthy  root 
action  in  the  surface  soil.  These  points 
will  insure  fruitful  trees. — E.  D.  S. 
A  Note  on  Babianas. 
Fig.  64, — Babiana  kubro-cyanea. 
even  though  he 
Perhaps  Babianas  can  hardly  be 
included  amongst  neglected  plants,  for 
few  gardeners  are  unacquainted  with  at 
least  one  or  two  of  their  varieties  ;  and 
in  some  establishments  where  cool-house 
plants  receive  a  portion  of  the  attention 
they  so  well  merit  they  rank  amongst  the 
most  esteemed  favourites,  together  with 
the  Ixias,  Watsonias,  Sparaxis,  and  other 
of  similar  habits. 
One  very  great  point  in  their  favour  is 
the  readiness  with  [which  they  flower  and 
their  few  cultural  requirements  —  such, 
indeed,  that  any  amateur  can  grow  them 
does  not  possess  that  general  plant  repository  in  small 
gardens,  a  greenhouse.  This,  however,  applies  chiefly  to  those  who 
reside  in  the  favoured  south  or  sheltered  districts  within  a  hundred 
miles  north  of  the  metropolis ;  for  though  even  farther  north  than 
that  the  plants  may  under  very  favourable  circumstances,  be  grown 
satisfactorily  outside,  house  culture  is  much  to  be  preferred  where 
practicable.  They  will  not  withstand  uninjured  a  temperature  much 
below  freezing  point,  and  in  all  situations  their  chief  eneiny  is 
excessive  moisture  in  the  soil,  either  from  want  of  adequate  drainage 
in  the  borders,  the  position  'being  low,  or  the  soil  heavy  and  retentive 
of  moisture. 
B.  rubro-oyanea  is  very  handsome.  It  is  of  moderate  height,  usually 
6  to  8  inches,  with  broad  plaited  leaves,  downy  on  the  under  surface  ; 
the  flowers  2  inches  or  more  in  diameter,  with  ovate  divisions,  the  upper 
half  of  a  most  brilliant  blue,  and  the  lower  part  rich  crimson,  forming 
a  central  zone  in  striking  contrast  to  the  outermost  ring.  The  orm  o 
the  flowers  is  well  shown  in  the  woodcut  (fig.  64).  This  species  usua  y 
flowers  in  May  or  June,'ibut  occasionally  as  late  as  July.  F. 
