September  13,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
257 
Lilinin  aaratum. 
Though  we  are  constantly  hearing  complaints  as  to  the  nnsatis- 
factory  progress  made  by  the  Golden  Eayed  Lily  of  Japan  it  continues 
to  hold  the  enviable  position  of  the  most  popular  Lilium  in  cultivation. 
I  have  found  in  relation  to  the  mysterious  disease  affecting  this  and 
other  species  from  Japan  that  it  is  much  more  prevalent  in  imported 
bulbs  than  in  those  that  have  been  raised,  or  at  any  rate  grown,  for 
some  years  in  this  country.  Hence  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
though  English  bulbs  may  be  slightly  higher  in  price  at  the  outset  they 
are  by  far  the  cheaper  in  the  end.  Some  go  off  at  the  end  of  the  first 
season,  but  there  are  several  clumps  in  our  shrubberies  that  have 
occupied  the  same  position  for  a  considerable  period,  and  which  flower 
splendidly  every  season.  In  these  borders  we  only  grow  the  typical 
form,  as  the  more  beautiful  varieties  appear  rather  weaker  in  constitution, 
and  have  failed  in  becoming  established. 
We  do  not  grow  a  great  number  in  pots,  as  the  flowers  give  off  such 
a  peculiarly  powerful  fragrance  that  it  becomes  almost  overpowering. 
We  are  on  no  account  allowed  to  take  a  plant,  or  even  a  couple  of 
flowers,  into  the  mansion,  and  only  two  or  three  pots  must  have  a  place 
in  the  conservatory  at  one  time.  The  favourite  variety  is  platyphyllum, 
which  seldom  fails  to  give  satisfactory  results  ;  it  produces  magnificent 
flowers  when  treated  liberally.  Wittei  has  much  more  delicately  beautiful 
flowers,  but  we  have  never  been  able  to  thoroughly  rely  upon  the 
results.  Perhaps  it  would  prefer  other  treatment  from  that  accorded  to 
the  type,  platyphyllum  and  rubro-vittatum,  which  we  find  immensely 
admired  by  some  people  and  as  strongly  condemned  by  others.  The 
flower  (fig.  67,  page  253),  I  send  with  these  notes  will,  however,  prove 
to  you  that  it  is. decidedly  handsome  when  perfectly  developed.  I  think, 
popular  as  this  Lily  is,  it  should  be  more  frequently  met  with  in  first- 
class  condition  than  is  the  case  at  present. — F.  Rowe. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
r.  1  .i  -  I  ■  I 
Feeding  Bees. 
Many  stocks  will  not  have  sufficient  natural  stores  to  last  until 
the  early  spring  flowers  expand.  If  these  have  not  already  received 
attention,  no  time  must  be  lost  in  providing  them  with  artificial  stores. 
In  the  case  ot  driven  bees,  too,  the  majority  of  which  have  been 
placed  in  frame  hives,  no  delay  should  take  place  in  this  important 
matter.  All  will  depend  on  the  treatment  at  this  season  whether  the 
bees  will  be  in  good  condition  next  spring.  Syrup  for  autumn  feeding 
should  be  made  as  thickly  as  possible,  the  proportion  of  sugar  being 
14  lbs.  to  from  five  to  seven  imperial  pints  of  water.  The  quantity  of 
water  is  governed  by  the  quality  of  ti  e  sugar.  If  it  is  ihe  ordinary 
white  sugar  such  as  may  be  obtained  in  provincial  towns,  which  is 
mostly  made  from  Beet,  the  former  quantity  should  he  used ;  if, 
however,  granulated  cane  sugar  of  the  finest  quality  is  procured,  the 
latter  will  be  the  correct  amount. 
For  boiling  a  small  quantity  the  vessel  used  should  be  placed  over 
a  clear  fire;  a  paraffin  or  gas  stove  answers  the  purpose  adndrably. 
Allow  the  water  to  boil,  and  then  add  the  sugar  gradually,  stirring  it 
the  whole  of  the  time.  The  sugar  will  then  dissolve  rapidly,  and  by 
the  time  the  water  has  boiled  a  couple  of  minutes  it  will  be  ready  for 
removal  from  the  fire.  During  the  boiling  process,  or  as  soon  as  it  is 
taken  from  the  fire,  ateaspooniul  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
should  be  added.  If  boiled  too  long  it  will  candy,  but  the  vinegar 
will  prevent  this  taking  place  it  the  syrup  is  properly  prepared. 
The  above  plan  is  recommended  where  only  a  few  colonies  of 
bees  are  kept.  Those  who  have  two  or  three  dozen  stocks  will  find  it 
a  great  saving  of  labour  to  empty  a  2  cwt.  bag  of  sugar  into  a  large 
copper  and  boil  it  ail  at  once.  This  is  the  plan  we  adopt,  and  when 
working  on  these  lines  we  first  measure  the  water  and  place  it  in  the 
copper,  allowing  it  to  boil  before  adding  the  sugar.  The  sugar  is 
then  gradually  shaken  into  the  copper,  and  kept  constantly  stirred. 
As  soon  as  the  boiling  is  over  the  fire  should  be  drawn  from  under  the 
copper.  This  will  prevent  the  syrup  having  a  burnt  flavour,  and  will 
allow  it  to  cool  gradually.  The  whole  operation  will  then  be  of  short 
duration,  and  there  will  be  no  waste  from  evaporation  or  the  syrup 
becoming  too  thick. 
Feeding  should  take  place  early  in  the  evening  when  the  bees  are 
not  on  the  wing.  There  will  then  be  no  danger  of  robbing,  and  if  the 
■yrup  is  placed  in  the  feeders  whilst  warm  the  bees  will  take  it  much 
more  readily  than  when  it  is  cold  ;  a  rapid  feeder  should  be  used. 
The  feeding,  however,  should  be  regulated  so  as  to  extend  over  several 
days,  as  the  bees  will  then  seal  it  over  like  natural  stores. — 
An  English  Bee-keepee. 
WOKK.foi\.theWEEK. 
IJardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Lifting  Young  Trees. — During  the  first  years  after  the  permanent 
planting  of  Plums,  Cherries,  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines,  and  to 
some  extent  Apples  and  Pears,  the  wood  growth  has  a  tendency  to  be 
rapid  in  extension  and  gross  in  character.  If  these  conditions  continue 
the  fruiting  is  retarded,  hence  measures  should  be  taken  to  check  the 
growth  in  question,  not  severely,  but  sufficiently  to  concentrate  the 
energies  in  maturing  the  wood  already  produced.  With  young  and 
portable  trees  this  is  best  accomplished  by  lifting  and  replanting.  The 
operation  must  be  carried  out  cnrefully  and  expeditiously,  so  as  not  to 
expose  the  roots  longer  than  necessary  to  drying  influences  of  sun,  air, 
and  wind.  It  is  best  not  to  adopt  this  manner  of  checking  growth  if 
the  trees  cannot  be  conveniently  handled,  but  to  prune  off  the  ends  of 
the  strongest  roots. 
The  first  thing  is  to  dig  a  trench  round  the  trees,  or  in  a  semicircle 
if  against  a  wall.  For  lifting  the  trench  should  be  about  2  feet  from 
the  stem,  but  when  root-pruning,  the  tree  being  larger,  not  less  than 
3  feet  will  be  best.  Work  the  soil  from  the  sides  of  the  trench  nearest 
to  the  stem  or  trunk,  until  a  good  bulk  of  fibrous  roots  are  found,  and 
also  the  large  thick  roots  which  induce  the  strong  growth.  These 
being  severed,  leaving  the  ends  quite  smooth,  with  a  little  under¬ 
mining  the  tree  may  be  raised  having  soil  adhering  to  the  roots.  It  is 
not,  however,  necessary  to  raise  the  ball  further  than  to  ascertain  that 
the  strong  roots  have  been  cut.  Replant  immediately,  cutting  down 
the  soil  from  the  sides  of  trench,  and  making  it  firm  about  the  roots. 
Follow  with  a  good  watering,  and  mulch  the  surface  with  light  manure. 
Should  very  dry  and  sunny  weather  follow  a  daily  syringing  will  be 
beneficial.  Shade  the  trees  also  should  the  foliage  droop. 
Plums. — Gather  all  the  fully  ripe  Plums  and  store  in  a  cool  room. 
Wrap  the  choicest  fruits  of  the  best  varieties  in  tissue  paper.  The 
later  ripening  Plums  should  be  protected  by  hexagon  netting,  and 
means  taken  to  prevent  attacks  from  earwigs  and  woodlice.  For  the 
former  Bean  stalks  cut  in  short  lengths  are  the  best,  while  woodlice 
are  not  so  plentiful  where  the  soil  is  maintained  moist  and  cracks  and 
holes  in  the  walls  kept  filled  up.  Wall  and  espalier  Plum  trees  ought 
not  to  be  subjected  to  the  closest  spur  pruning  alone,  but  also  have  a 
certain  amount  of  young  wood  laid  in  annually.  With  plenty  of  space 
for  training  upon  this  can  be  readily  done,  and  the  system  affords  an 
opportunity  of  laying  in  new  wood  and  cutting  out  exhausted  parts. 
Standard  trees  require  little  pruning.  The  removal  of  any  branches 
that  are  crowded  or  that  spoil  the  shape  of  the  trees  may  be  effected 
after  the  fruit  is  gathered,  at  the  same  time  removing  dead  or  partially 
dead  wood. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Fruit  Ripening. — The  fruits  ripening  on 
outdoor  wall  trees  must  be  protected.  When  approaching  maturity  the 
fruits  are  liable  to  fall  and  suffer  injury.  To  avoid  this  suspend  nets 
below.  If  possible  gather  just  previously  to  full  ripening,  and  finish  in 
a  cool  room. 
Autumn  Pruning. — After  the  crop  of  fruit  has  been  gathered,  the 
pruning-out  of  much  unnecessary  wood  may  be  accomplished.  Doing 
this  will  admit  of  allowing  more  room  for  the  young  growths  retained 
for  future  bearing  and  their  consequent  ripening.  In  training-iu  the 
growths  of  young  trees  permit  them  to  extend  over  as  much  space  as 
possible,  but  do  not  allow  any  overcrowding.  Abundant  light  and  air 
are  indispensable  to  the  full  maturation  of  the  shoots. 
Watering  Dry  Borders. — Well-cropped  trees,  especially  of  Apples,  if 
growing  on  light  dry  borders  will  require  the  application  of  water. 
Give  to  such  borders  a  good  supply,  and  also  a  liberal  moistening  with 
liquid  manure.  After  this  has  been  done  a  mulching  of  light  manure 
will  be  beneficial  in  maintaining  the  roots  in  an  equably  moist  medium. 
Cleansing  Trees.  —  American  Blight. — This  pest  prevails  almost 
exclusively  on  Apples,  chiefly  in  the  open  on  bush  and  standard  trees. 
It  can  be  considerably  subdued  by  syringing  the  infested  parts  with 
soluble  petroleum,  1  pint  to  10  gallons  of  water,  adding  1  lb.  of  softsoap. 
The  oil  will  mix  better  with  soapy  water  than  with  clear  water.  Neat 
petroleum  worked  into  the  infested  parts  with  a  half  worn  painter’s 
brush  destroys  all  the  insects  it  touches,  and  softsoap  rubbed  in  is 
beneficial. 
Eed  Spider. — This  pest  attacks  Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Plums, 
and  Cherries  on  walls.  Syringe  the  foliage  forcibly  with  an  insecticide 
after  the  trees  are  cleared  of  fruit.  A  solution  of  softsoap  and  sulphur 
is  a  reliable  remedy. 
Established  Strawberry  Beds. — Delay  in  clearing  away  runners  and 
weeds  is  not  conducive  to  the  proper  ripening  and  plnmping-up  of  the 
crowns  for  future  bearing.  Detach  the  runners  from  the  main  plants, 
and  hoe  them  and  the  weeds  up  from  between  the  rows.  Slightly 
point  the  soil  with  a  fork,  and  if  practicable  give  a  good  soaking  of 
