258 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  September  1.3,  1900. 
liquid  manure,  after  which  a  mulching  of  short  and  rich  manure  may  be 
spread  round  snd  between  the  plants. 
Forming  Aew  jBeds.— Booted  runners  from  pots  or  obtained  from 
between  rows  of  fruitful  plants  may  still  be  planted.  Select  deeply 
dug  well  prepared  soil,  make  it  firm,  and  plant  in  rows  2  to  2|  feet 
apart.  Give  a  few  applications  of  water  to  assist  them  becoming 
established. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — The  temperature  should  be  maintained  at  65°  by  night 
and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  a  rise  of  10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat.  Remove 
unhealthy  leaves  and  old  growths,  and  train  the  others  as  may  be 
necessary.  Employ  the  syringe  sparingly,  only  damping  the  foliage 
on  bright  days,  so  that  it  may  become  dry  before  night.  Damping  will 
require  to  be  done  in  the  morning,  and  again  in  the  evening.  Pot 
seedlings  as  they  become  fit,  and  keep  them  near  the  glass  to  insure 
sturdy  growth,  pinching  out  the  growing  point  of  those  required  for 
covering  low  terraces  at  the  second  rough  leaf;  others  train  with  a 
single  stem,  securing  to  a  small  stick,  rubbing  off  the  laterals  to  the 
extent  of  the  stem  required  to  reach  the  trellis.  Be  sparing  with 
moisture  to  plants  in  pits  and  frames,  maintaining  the  temperature  by 
linings  renovated  as  reqidred,  closing  early,  and  employing  a  covering 
over  the  lights  on  cold  nishts. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Houses.— The  leaves  being 
off  or  nearly  so,  complete  rest  should  be  aimed  at  by  keeping  the 
ventilators  open  constantly,  ar  d  if  the  roof-lights  be  movable  they  may 
be  withdrawn  for  a  time.  This  prevents  undue  excitement  of  the  btpls, 
and  has  an  invigorating  tendency,  as  the  trees  get  thoroughly  cleansed 
of  dirt,  red  spider,  and  thrips,  and  frosts  prove  destructive  of  brown 
scale,  while  the  borders  become  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains.  If  the 
roof.lights  cannc  t  be  removed  see  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  water 
at  the  roots  of  the  trees,  for  though  the  impression  prevails  that 
dryness  at  the  roots  accelerates  the  ripening  of  the  wood  it  is  fatal  to 
the  proper  formation  of  the  buds,  and  often  gives  a  check,  causing 
them  to  fall  later.  When  the  leaves  have  fallen  the  trees  may  be 
pruned.  Only  the  strong  growths  that  have  not  the  points  well 
matured  need  be  cut  back.  In  all  cases  be  careful  to  shorten  to  a  wood 
bud,  not  being  deceived  by  a  double  or  triple  bud,  as  these  are  all 
sometimes  blossom  buds.  Where  ordinary  attention  has  been  given  to 
disbudding,  laying  in  no  more  wood  than  is  necessary  for  the 
succeeding  year’s  fruiting  and  for  the  extension  of  the  trees,  also 
removing  fruited  and  other  unnecessary  parts  after  the  fruit  was 
gathered,  very  little  pruning  will  be  required. 
Thoroughly  clear  se  the  house,  and  if  the  trees  have  been  infested 
with  red  spider  or  other  insect  pests  dress  them  with  an  insecticide,  as 
many,  especially  red  spider,  will  secrete  in  the  rougher  portions  of  the 
bark  and  in  the  woodwork,  apphing  the  dressing  with  a  brush.  If  the 
trees  have  been  badly  infested  repeat  the  application  before  they  are 
secured  to  the  trellis.  Remove  the  mulching  or  loose  surface  soil,  and 
supply  fresh  loam,  having  a  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser 
sprinkled  over  each  square  yard  of  surface.  This  will  be  washed  in 
either  by  rains  or  watering,  and  sustain  the  trees  at  blossoming  time 
and  the  early  stages  of  the  fruit  swelling.  The  partial  lifting  of  weakly 
trees  will  be  necessary,  and  should  be  done  before  the  leaves  have  fallen. 
In  the  case  of  trees  that  do  net  ripen  the  wood  well  the  roots  should 
be  carefully  lifted  and  relaid  in  fresh  soil  near  the  surface. 
Successional  Forced  Houses. — Trees  from  which  the  fruit  has  been 
gathered  should  have  the  bearing  wood  of  the  current  year  cut  out, 
always  excepting  parts  needful  for  extension.  This  will  admit  of  the 
trees  being  thoroughly  cleaned  by  syringing,  and  if  necessary  applyi'  g 
an  insecticide,  it  being  of  the  greatest  importance  that  the  trees  retain 
the  foliage  clean  and  healthy  until  buds  are  thoroughly  formed  and 
properly  matured.  This  will  be  increased  through  the  assistance  of 
more  air  and  light.  If  the  growths  are  too  crowded  thin  them,  leaving 
sufficient  wood  for  next  year’s  bearing.  It  is  better  removed  now  than 
at  the  winter  pruning ;  the  remaining  parts  are  benefited,  and  there  is 
less  danger  of  inducing  gumming.  Ventilate  freely,  and  afford  water 
as  required  to  keep  the  soil  duly  moistened  to  the  drainage. 
Late  Houses.  The  fruit  is  swelling,  and  liberal  supplies  of  water 
are  required  until  the  ripening  is  well  advanced,  when  moderate 
supplies  will  be  sufficient.  Trees  that  are  making  gross  growths  and 
have  a  tendency  to  lateness  should  he  marked  for  lifting.  A  circulation 
of  air  is  necessary  at  night,  and  free  ventilation  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  this  being  of  infinitely  more  value  than  fire  heat  at  a  later  period. 
Keep  the  wood  thin,  stop  any  growing  shoots  to  about  15  inches,  and  all 
laterals  to  one  joint  as  made.  This  will  admit  more  light  and  air, 
which  is  of  great  importance.  In  case  of  the  fruit  being  late  sun  heat 
may  be  utilised,  allowing  the  temperature  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°,  but 
with  free  ventilation  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  Trees  with  the  roots 
outside  must  not  be  neglec'ed  if  dry  weather  prevail, and  if  carrying  heavy 
OTops  liquid  nianure  may  be  given  until  the  fruit  commences  to  soften. 
When  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  remove  all  shoots  not  required  as 
extensions  that  have  carried  the  crop,  and  if  the  wood  is  not  in  a 
satisfactory  condition  as  to  ripening,  gentle  fire  heait  with  a  circulation 
of  air  will  be  advisable,  especially  in  the  case  of  late  varieties  The 
midseason  kinds  will  ripen  the  wood  if  the  autumn  be  favourable,  but 
if  wet  and  cold  the  trees  are  benefited  by  gentle  warmth  and  a  free 
circulation  of  air.  This  is  necessary  in  cold  localities,  especially  with 
■the  very  late  varieties. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  XZ,  Mitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Iiondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  plvme 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Euphorbia  splendens  (J.  C.  R.). — This  plant  is  of  easy  culture, 
requiring  a  stove  temperature  and  a  soil  of  fibrous  loam  and  sand,  with 
a  small  proportion  of  lime  rubbish.  The  pots  should  b=(  well  drained, 
as  any  stagnant  moisture  is  especially  injnrirus  to  the  plants.  When 
the  plants  are  growing  freely  water  may  be  liberally  supplied,  liquid 
manure  being  also  beneficial  occasionally.  Although  succeeding  well 
in  pots,  this  Euphorbia  is  more  useful  if  planted  in  a  border  against 
a  wall  in  the  stove,  when  fiowers  will  be  freely  produced,  during  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  year. 
Oloriosa  superba  (N.  N.). — The  soil  best  adapted  for  them  is  a 
mixture  of  fibrous  peat,  light  loam,  good  leaf  mould,  well  decomposed 
manure,  and  silver  sand  in  equal  parts.  After  potting  they  will  not, 
if  I  he  soil  is  in  good  order,  require  water  until  they  show  their  growth  ; 
after  this  a  good  moist  heat  is  necessary,  and  care  must  be  taken  to 
keep  red  spider  and  thrips  from  them.  Weak  liquid  manure  applied 
occasionally  will  be  found  to  assist  them  very  much,  and  they  must 
be  trained  up  the  rafters,  or  upon  a  trellis,  as  they  grow,  or  the 
tendrils  with  which  each  leaf  is  furnished  at  the  apex  will  become  so 
firmly  fixed  to  other  j)lant8  that  it  will  be  impossible  to  remove  them 
without  injury. 
Culture  of  Erythrinas  (Amateur). — Erythrinas  may  be  kept  all  the 
winter  in  any  kind  of  place  where  frost  does  not  penetrate  ;  after  they 
are  started  in  spring  may  be  wholly  grown  outside,  and  only  removed 
to  the  greenhouse  as  they  come  into  flower.  They  are  remarkably 
profuse  flowering  plants,  and  their  wants  are  few.  A  mixture  of  loam 
and  1  af  soil,  with  a  good  dash  of  sand  and  a  few  pieces  of  charcoal, 
suits  them  admirably.  An  annual  potting  just  as  they  start  will  be 
sufficient  for  ordinarily  large  plants,  and  an  annual  pruning — which 
consists  in  cutting  off  all  the  summer’s  growth  down  to  the  rim  of 
the  pot — coupled  with  such  treatment  as  we  have  hinted  at,  will 
insure  success.  We  advise  a  little  heat  for  starting  them  in,  though, 
because  they  start  more  regularly  than  if  left  outside.  If  put  in  a 
warm  temperature  we  advise  careful  hardening  and  placing  outside 
early  in  June,  and  their  removal  inside  when  the  first  fiowers  show 
themselves.  After  they  are  cut  down  they  should  be  kept  rather  dry 
and  away  from  frost. 
Treatment  of  Pines  (Novice). — Yon  must  exercise  the  greatest  care 
with  your  plants  to  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  soft  and  drawn,  as 
the  sun’s  heat  is  waning,  and  air  cannot  be  so  freely  admitted  without 
having  recourse  to  artificial  heat.  This  is  absolutely  essential  in  the 
case  of  plants  in  an  exuberant  condition,  which  should  have  air  at  80°, 
above  which  ventilate  freely,  especially  on  warm  sunny  days,  with  a 
view  to  consolidating  the  growths,  and  close  the  house  for  the  day  at 
80°.  The  bottom  heat  should  be  kept  steady  at  85’,  or  between  80® 
and  90°,  and  the  plants  will  not  suffer  any  check  provided  the  ventila¬ 
tion  be  judicious  and  the  treatment  liberal  and  proper  in  other  respects. 
The  night  temperature  should  be  maintained  at  65°,  and  70°  to  75“ 
secured  by  artificial  means  in  the  daytime,  effecting  a  change  of  air 
daily,  even  in  dull  weather,  by  a  little  top  ventilation.  Syringing  will 
only  be  needed  occasionally,  and  it  should  be  done  on  the  afternoons  of 
bright  days.  Water  must  be  given  when  absolutely  necessary,  then 
afford  an  abundant  supply  of  weak  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state. 
