262 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  20,  1900. 
from  the  earliest  date  on  which  we  can  get  a  delivery  of  “  Eomans  ’’ 
to  the  end  of  October.  Many  persons  pot  considerably  later 
than  this,  but  I  cannot  see  that  it  is  advantageous.  Certainly  the 
bulbs  have  then  been  from  the  ground  for  an  unnatural  period,  and 
some  of  their  stored-up  energy  is  being  expended  upon  the  com¬ 
mencing  growth,  and  the  more  this  is  allowed  to  proceed  the  more 
will  the  flower  be  prejudiceo  in  its  development.  One  can  always 
advance  or  retard  a  dczen  pots  or  more  according  to  demands,  and 
it  is  much  better  practice  than  keeping  the  bulbs  from  the  soil  for  an 
unwarrantable  time. 
Broadly  speaking,  all  the  bulbs  that  come  to  us  from  the  Channel 
Islands  and  Holland  at  this  period  of  the  year  require  similar  treat¬ 
ment  ;  there  may  be,  and  of  course  are,  differences  of  detail  which 
will  occur  to  the  experienced  mind,  but  they  are  sufiiciently  insignificant 
for  us  to  pass  them  over  with  the  merest  glance.  The  principal 
variations  lie  in  the  time  of  potting,  the  period  of  plunging,  and  the 
subsequent  methods  of  procedure.  Of  these  the  plunging  is  the 
most  important  item,  as  it  frequently  spells  the  difference  between 
success  and  failure,  more  especially  amongst  the  comparatively 
inexperienced. 
It  may  therefore  be  taken  that  the  remarks  made  and  about  to  be 
made  cover  the  widest  possible  ground.  More  importance  is  attached 
by  some  cultivators  to  the  soil  than  I  consider  essential.  It  will  be 
found  by  experiments  conducted  over  a  series  of  years,  that  provided 
an  open  compost  of  some  heart  is  provided,  the  success  will  be  quite  as 
great  as  where  an  elaborate  mixture  has  been  prepared.  As  a  matter 
of  fact  I  consider  it  a  distinct  disadvantage  to  add  artificial  manures  to 
soil  for  these  plants,  as  they  are  apt  to  force  on  top  growth  at  the 
expense  of  root  growth  ;  and  again  there  is  danger  that  the  tender 
roots  may  be  scorched  by  contact.  A  little  soot  is  all  I  favour  in  this 
direction,  and  one  can  scarcely  see  the  smallest  difference  between 
those  in  soil  containing  soot  and  those  having  none.  Three  parts  of 
good  loam,  one  part  of  decomposed  leaf  mould,  a  proportion  of  the 
coarsest  sand  varying  in  amount  with  the  texture  of  the  loam,  and  a 
few  pieces  of  charcoal  form  an  ideal  mixture  ;  but  I  have  many  times 
had  to  be  content  with  a  much  inferior  soil  and  still  have  had  fairly 
satisfactory  results. 
To  make  up  for  the  omission  of  special  food  from  the  compost  I 
believe  in  a  course  of  dieting  as  the  plants  swell  up  the  spike.  This, 
I  believe  to  be  the  most  generally  satisfactory.  When  the  bulbs  have 
become  thoroughly  well  rooted,  and  the  spike  can  be  seen  forcing  its 
way  upwards,  the  dietary  is  commenced,  and  it  is  varied  to  the  utmost 
limit.  Soot,  guano,  natural  manure,  especially  that  from  cows,  and 
any  special  mixture,  are  all  given  an  occasional  turn,  ai  d  the  same 
one  is  never  employed  twice  in  succession.  Let  it  be  very  weak,  is 
the  order  of  the  day,  and  one  may  see  the  plants  revel  in  the  fare 
that  is  provided  for  them.  Just  as  the  plants  attain  to  full  develop¬ 
ment  I  soiuetimes  give  a  little  nitrate  of  soda,  but  it  is  not  an  unmixed 
blessing,  as  I  have  proved  to'my  cost. 
In  another  respect  I  think  some  of  us  err,  and  that  is  in  choosing 
for  Hyacinths  a  pot  of  too  large  a  size.  Except  perhaps  for  the 
very  largest  bulbs  like  Grand  Maitre,  I  think  a  54  or  even  a  60-pot 
quite  big  enough.  There  is  not  room  for  much  soil,  especially  as 
the  drainage  must  of  necessity  be  perfect,  but  it  is  quite  sufficient, 
as  the  feeding  is  to  be  done  at  a  subsequent  date.  The  smaller  the 
bulk  of  soil  the  greater  the  need  for  perfect  drainage  and  porosity, 
for  if  it  become  sour  through  stagnation  failure  will  inevitably 
accrue.  In  the  use  of  48  and  32-pot8  we  provide  accommodation 
for  more  bulbs,  and  with  from  three  to  five  in  a  pot  the  effect,  if 
they  are  well  grown,  is  always  excellent.  Tulips  I  find  appreciate 
rather  more  abundant  supplies  of  water  than  Hyacinths  and  the 
majority  of  other  bulbs. 
Brief  reference  was  made  in  an  earlier  paragraph  to  the  plunging 
after  potting,  which  is  rightly  considered  a  very  important  operation. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  calls  for  more  judgment  than  perhaps  anv 
other  individual  detail  of  bulb  culture.  If  the  pots  remain  plunged 
too  long  the"  top  growth  becomes  more  or  less  drawn,  while  if  the 
period  is  curtailed  and  the  pots  are  brought  into  the  light  too  soon 
top  growth  is  made  at  the  expense  of  root  growth,  and  there  is 
some  danger  of  partial  or  total  collapse  at  a  later  period.  I  hope  to 
continue  my  remarks  on  this  subject  at  an  early  date. — F.  Rowe. 
- - 
RenovatiDg  Fruit  Trees. 
Many  fruit  trees  which  are  not  of  good  shape,  and  bear  indifferent 
fruit,  or  possibly  none  at  all,  may  be  In  this  condition  because  they 
are  growing  too  closely  together,  the  heads  of  each  tree  also  being 
densely  crowded.  Standard,  bush,  {and  pyramid  trees  may  all  be 
found  in  this  condition,  brought  about  by  errors  in  planting  thickly,, 
and  neglecting  to  prune  the  trees  from  year  to  year.  Should  they 
have  become  old  and  worthless  it  is  not  advisable  to  retain  them. 
Especially  is  this  the  case  if  the  trunks  and  stems  are  cankered, 
overrun  with  mess  and  lichen,  and  infested  with  American  blight. 
Though  great  improvements  may  be  effected  in  trees  which  are  in 
this  state,  it  is  a  question  whether  they  are  worth  the  trouble,  seeing 
that  thrifty  and  vigorous  young  trees  of  approved  varieties  may 
be  obtained  and  planted,  and  which  in  a  few  years  will  prove 
remunerative. 
Having  decided  what  form  renovation  is  to  take  let  the  work  be 
done  thoroughly.  Trees  that  are  to  be  entirely  removed  should  be 
grubbed  up,  and  the  trunks,  branches,  as  well  as  roots,  burned. 
Planting  trees  on  a  fresh  site  is  the  best  plan,  but  as  this  is  not 
always  practicable,  the  existing  position  should  be  made  the  best  of. 
The  ground  can  only  be  rendered  fit  for  planting  fresh  trees  upon  by 
trenching  two  spits  deep,  breaking  up  the  bottom  spit,  and  mixing 
with  the  top,  so  as  not  to  entirely  reverse  the  two  layers  of  soil.  In 
heavy  soils  some  lightening  material  ought  to  be  added  to  improve  it. 
This  may  consist  of  road  scrapings,  pulverised  mortar  rubbish,  and 
burnt  refuse.  To  light  soils  which  need  stiffening,  add  clay  marl  or 
chalk,  any  of  which  is  best  if  broken  down  finely.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  add  manure  if  the  soil  is  very  poor,  but  it  must  be  well  dec  mposed, 
worked  freely  with  the  staple  soil,  and  not  too  liberally  apj  lied.  Of 
course  the  ground  is  all  the  better  if  it  can  lay  a  year,  taking  a  root 
crop  from  it  during  that  time.  If  this  is  done  it  may  be  more  heavily 
manured,  as  the  effects  of  a  liberal  dressing  will  be  spent  by  the  time 
the  fruit  trees  should  be  planted.  This,  however,  is  not  necessary  if 
the  soil  is  of  a  fairly  feriile  character,  and  is  not  diied  and  exhausted 
to  an  undue  extent.  In  the  process  of  trenching  the  roots  of  the  old 
trees  must  be  worked  out,  also  the  roots  of  perennial  weeds  such  as 
Bear  bind.  Ground  Ivy,  and  Twitch  or  Couch  Grass,  Docks  and 
Dandelions.  These  are  troublesome  and  persistent  growing  weeds 
which  are  a  nuisance  in  a  fruit  garden. 
The  process  of  renovating  a  plantation  of  crowded  trees  is  first  to 
thin  out  the  trees  themselves  if  the  heads  are  growing  into  one 
another.  Much  is  lost  by  allowing  the  trees  to  stand  too  close,  as  the 
proper  extension  of  each  is  prevented.  In  thinning  the  heads  take 
out  the  central  parts,  cross  branches,  and  all  dead  wood,  as  well  as 
weakiy  growths  wherever  situated.  Leave  tie  free  growing  and 
healthy  branches  in  such  a  manner  as  to  produce  a  well  balanced  and 
regulated  tree,  through  which  light  and  air  can  penetrate,  and  the 
sunshine  pass  between  the  branches  to  the  soil. 
Restricted  bush  and  pyramid-shaped  trees  require  the  branches 
reduced  in  number  if  they  are  more  than  ordinarily  thickly  placed. 
When  well  furnished  with  spurs  they  soon  become  crowded,  hence  it 
is  desirable  they  should  be  freely  thinned  so  as  to  admit  light  and  air 
to  the  spur  clusters.  The  latter  may  be  crowded  or  elongated,  and 
need  some  attention  in  thinning  and  shortening  back.  Branches 
removed  should  be  cut  back  to  their  origin,  and  not  shortened. 
The  treatment  of  wall  trees  is  on  similar  lines.  Too  many 
cordons  or  branches  are  laid  in  which  owing  to  the  extension  of  spurs 
bt  come  crowded.  Fan-trained  trees  can  be  readily  regu  at ed.  New 
growths  may  be  trained  in  from  the  base  of  the  older  branches,  while 
the  unsuitable  ones  may  be  cut  out. — E.  Barrow. 
