280 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
September  20,  1900 
and  splitting  at  the  base.  While  the  dry  weather  lasts  continue  to 
apply  water  to  the  sides  of  the  rows,  though  not  quite  so  often  as 
heretofore.  Late  Celery  should  be  prevented  from  spreading  too  much 
by  a  few  inches  of  soil,  but  there  must  be  no  heavy  earthing-up  as  yet. 
Mushrooms. — Open-air  beds  ought  to  be  spawned  this  month  or  they 
may  not  become  productive  much  before  the  spring.  The  manure  for 
these  should  consist  of  at,  least  one  part  of  short  stained  straw  to 
two  parts  of  droppings,  and  ought  to  be  prepared  by  fermentation  in 
heaps  long  enough  to  get  rid  of  rank  heat  and  noxious  gases.  The 
manure  in  preparation  should  be  turned  every  day  if  very  hot,  and 
every  second  day  if  only  moderately  so,  the  aim  being  to  prevent  the 
centre  of  the  heap  from  attaining  to  a  “  white  heat.”.  From  a  fortnight 
to  three  weeks  ought  to  be  expended  on  this  preparation,  and  when  the 
manure  is  fit  for  use  it  should  be  moderately  warm,  sweet  smelling,  and 
somewhat  moist.  Open-air  beds  should  be  formed  in  a  sheltered 
position,  ridge  shaped,  of  any  length,  3  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  the 
same  in  height,  putting  the  manure  in  layers  and  very  firmly,  finally 
rounding  off  the  centre  and  combing  down  the  sides  and  ends.  Insert 
trial  stakes,  and  when  the  points  of  these  can  be  comfortably  held  in 
the  palm  of  the  hand,  or  the  temperature  does  not  exceed  85',  the  time 
has  arrived  for  spawning.  Do  not  be  parsimonious  with  spawn  or  use 
that  which  is  stale.  If  the  weather  is  showery  after  spawning  protect 
with  the  coarser  straw  thrown  out  when  the  manure  was  sorted.  Three 
days  later,  if  the  heat  has  not  risen,  case  over  with  2  to  3  inches  of 
fine,  fresh  loam,  making  this  firm.  Cover  heavily  with  dry,  strawy 
litter,  in  particular  warding  off  heavy  rains.  Successional  beds  may  be 
made  as  the  manure  is  fit. 
All  cirrespondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
Xondon,  E.c.  It  i^  requ  sted  thit  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  sosubj  cts  them  to  unjustitiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Black  Currant  Fruit  Buds  not  Opening  {W.  B.). — The  cause  of  the 
buds  not  opening  is  the  Black  Currant  bud  mite,  Phytoptus  ribis,  which 
is  now  infesting  the  young  buds.  In  a  similar  case  the  bushes  were 
completely  cleared  of  the  pest  by  remiving  all  the  swollen  buds  between 
the  present  time  and  the  hushes  8w^lling  the  leaf  buds  in  the  spring. 
The  buds  were  simply  extracted  from  their  joint  sockets  by  means  of  a 
knife  and  the  thumb,  and  placed  in  a  galvanised  pail  smeared  inside 
with  paraffin  oil,  and  the  vessel  emptied  as  necessary  on  to  a  fire.  The 
bushes  had  somewhat  of  a  skeleton  appearance,  but  new  growths  issued 
from  the  base,  and  by  judicious  cutting  away  or  shortening  of  the  old 
bare  branches  perfectly  clean  and  fruitful  bushes  were  secured.  Close 
observation  was  afterwards  kept  on  the  buds  and  all  swollen  ones 
removed. 
Begonia  Leaves  Diseased  (/.  Jf.).— The  leaves  are  affected  by  a 
minute  fungus,  possibly  Ascochyta  species.  It  is  likely  to  begin  near 
the  centre  of  the  leaf  and  to  spread  in  all  directions.  Sometimes  rings 
are  produced  on  the  injured  tissues,  which  have  the  appearance  of 
spots.  The  disease  is  a  very  uncommon  one  on  the  Begonia.  Early 
treatment  with  sulphide  of  potassium  or  liver  of  sulphur,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  has  been  advised  as  a  preventive, 
applying  with  a  spray  diffuser  very  lightly  to  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  and  repeating  as  new  foliage  is  made.  The  sulphide  of  potassium 
solution  also  has  a  good  effr  cc  on  the  leaf  rust  insect,  so  called, 
Tarsonymus  begoni,  of  which  there  are  traces  on  the  leaves  as  well  as 
the  fungus.  The  mite,  however,  is  best  treated  for  with  dilute  tobacco 
water  or  nicotine  compound.  Why  not  raise  a  fresh  stock  and  discard 
the  old  plant  ? 
Diseased  Cucumbers  (.1.  D.,jun.). — The  fruits  are  affected,  and  also 
the  leaves,  by  the  fungus  Glaeosporium  Linde muthianum,  syn.  Colleto- 
thrichum  lagenarium,  which,  though  most  common  on  Kidney  Bean 
pods,  has  invaded  Cucumber  and  Melon  houses.  It  is  generally 
considered  to  prevail  most  in  damp  and  close  structures  and  under 
high  cultivation.  It  is  correct  treatment  to  keep  the  soil  in  a  thoroughly 
moist,  but  not  saturated  to  soddenness,  condition.  Whenever  the  soil 
inclines  to  the  dry  side  a  thorough  supply  of  water  should  be  given,  and 
no  more  most  be  supplied  until  the  soil  has  become  rather  dry.  When 
overwatered  the  plants  make  a  sappy  growth,  and  sometimes  show 
distress  under  strong  light,  even  when  the  house  is  somewhat  heavily 
shaded.  We  regret  not  being  able  to  give  you  any  information  as 
regards  stopping  the  disease  in  the  young  plants,  as  it  is  wholly 
endophytic,  hence  not  admitting  of  any  external  remedial  measures. 
Melon  Stem  and  Leaves  Diseased  (P.  J.  P.). — The  stem  is  quite  free 
as  far  as  we  can  discover  from  fungoid  disease,  but  bo'h  it  and  the 
leaves  have  been  overrun  by  red  spider,  which  is  the  cause  of  the 
collapse.  The  pest  is  chiefly  induced  by  a  dry  atmosphere,  and 
sometimes  also  by  dryness  of  the  soil.  It  can  only  be  prevented  in  pits  by 
maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  and  due  moisture  in 
the  soil  from  the  time  of  planting  to  that  of  the  fruit  changing  for 
ripening.  Of  course  the  moisture  must  be  moderated  at  the  time  of 
the  fruit  setting,  and  in  no  case  should  the  soil  be  made  sodden  by 
needless  watering,  or  the  atmosphere  saturated  with  moisture. 
Judicious  treatment  is  the  thing,  and  the  lack  of  proper  attention, 
through  illness,  during  the  very  hot  weather,  no  doubt  was  the  inducement 
to  attack  by  red  spider. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  to  Ripen  in  Cool  House  at  the  End  of 
July  or  Early  in  August  (IF.  S.). — You  do  not  mention  the  number 
of  trees  required,  buc  suppose  a  long  sicoession  of  fruit  is  desired, 
bence  name  the  varieties  in  order  of  ripening.  Peaches  :  Waterloo 
or  *Early  Louise,  *Hale’s  Early,  Large  Early  Mignonne,  Dymond, 
Goshawk,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Noblesse,  Royal  George,  Princess  of  Wales, 
Bellegarde,  Sea  Eagle,  Walburton  Admirable,  and  Golden  Eagle. 
Nectarines  :  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt, 
Pineapple,  Dryden,  and  Victoria.  Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  have 
medium  sized  fruit ;  the  others  have  large  fruit.  If  you  simply  require 
a  supply  of  fruit  at  the  time  named,  and  large  fruited  varieties  only, 
then  of  Peaches  :  A  Bee,  Condor,  Dagmar,  Early  Alfred,  Large  Early 
Mignonne,  Dr.  Hogg,  and  Crimson  Galande.  Nectarines  :  Early 
Rivers,  Goldoni,  Lord  Napier,  Darwin,  Stanwick  Elruge,  and  Improved 
Downton. 
Pansy  Cuttings  and  Cherry  Tree  (P.  M.  K.). — When  Pansies  have 
run  out  of  character,  through  over-flowering  or  otherwise,  cuttings 
taken  from  the  plants,  selecting  those  springing  from  the  base,  will 
produce  flowers  of  the  original  size  with  their  proper  colour,  shape,  and 
markings,  if  carefully  selected.  It  is  largely  a  measure  of  good  manage¬ 
ment  after  propagation.  As  regards  the  Cherry  tree,  Standea’s  manure 
applied  too  liberally  would  certainly  cause  the  destruction  of  the  roots, 
also  those  of  other  fruit  trees  in  pots,  the  fertiliser  being  a  powerful 
one,  though  a  teispoonful  per  pot  and  mixed  with  soil,  applying  as  a 
top-dressiner,  is  not  likely  to  do  -any  harm,  repeating  occasionally.  A 
tablespoonful  to  a  pot  is  quite  another  matter,  and  was  no  doubt  the 
cause  of  the  Cherry  tree  suddenly  losing  its  leaves,  though  it  may  have 
arisen  from  other  causes,  such  as  defective  drainage,  a  sodden  soil  from 
overwatering,  or  attacks  of  red  spider.  Possibly  only  the  larger  roots 
have  life  in  them,  though  this  hardly  seems  of  much  moment,  as  the 
branches  are  dead. 
Peach  Leaves  with  Brown  Spots  (W.  H.).  —  The  leaves  sent,  in 
addition  to  being  covered  with  brown  spots  and  patches,  are  lacking 
in  substance,  which  shows  clearly  your  tree  is  in  a  debilitated  state. 
The  direct  cause  of  the  spots  is  sunburn,  in  consequence  of  a  serious 
check  to  the  flow  of  sap.  This  may  have  been  brought  about  by  dryness 
at  the  root,  or  by  the  sun  shining  on  exposed  parts  of  the  branches.  It 
is  also  possible  that  the  roofs  of  your  tree  are  attacked  by  a  white 
fungus,  which  gradually  saps  the  energies  of  trees,  and  in  time  causes 
them  to  die.  Examine  the  roots  at  once  ;  if  no  fungus  is  found  water 
the  soil  thoroughly,  and  we  think  you  will  soon  find  improvement  take 
place,  and  if  some  of  the  fruits  are  removed  the  others  may  ripen  pro¬ 
perly.  Even  if  fungus  is  found,  the  watering  may  bring  the  tree  through 
this  year,  bat  the'  pest  must  be  destroyed  after  the  fruit  is  gathered, 
and  the  soil  also  removed.  You  may  also  find  a  number  of  small  lumps 
on  the  roots,  which  are  often  caused  by  heavy  manuring ;  these  also 
decrease  the  vigour  of  a  tree,  and  anything  which  does  thlit  paves  the 
way  to  saiiburn  when  bright  weathex'  prevails.  If  matters  improve 
sufficiently  to  warrant  the  retention  of  the  tree  remove  the  soil  around 
the  roots  early  in  November,  and  replace  it  by  good  turfy  loam,  to  which 
a  sixth  of  lime  rubble  and  a  little  soot  has  been  added. 
Ulmus  pyramidalis  (fastigiata)  with  Hole  in  Stem  {A.  JL).— Probably 
sime  caterpillar  has  attacked  the  tree  and  caused  the  exudation  of  the 
sap.  The  most  likely  delinquent  is  that  of  the  wood  leopard  moth 
(Zeuzera  eescnb),  which  does  not  usually  kill  the  tree  attacked,  but 
causes  considerable  injury,  especially  when  bleeding  occurs,  as  in  the 
case  of  Elms.  The  caterpillars  may  be  destroyed  by  drawing  them  out 
of  their  burrows  with  hooked  wires,  or  by  running  a  strong  wire  into 
the  hole  and  thus  crushing  them  to  death.  If  the  wire,  when 
withdrawn,  is  found  to  have  wet  whitish  matter  on  it  such  would  result 
from  having  crushed  the  larva  ;  or,  again,  if  gnawed  wood  should  have 
been  passed  out  of  the  burrow  up  to  the  time  of  operation,  and  no  more 
appears  afterwards,  it  may  be  supposed  the  creature  is  killed,  otherwise 
the  operation  should  be  repeated.  In  the  case  of  the  Camperdown 
Elm  bleeding  at  the  base  from  no  visible  hole,  it  is  possible  that  it  may 
be  infested  by  some  caterpillar,  such  as  that  of  the  goat  moth,  Oossua 
ligniprrda.  It  is  the  habit  of  the  goat  moth  to  lay  her  eggs  at  the 
lowest  part  of  the  tree,  and  the  sap  oozes  out  of  the  tunnels  made  by 
the  caterpillars.  This  pest  may  be  destroyed  in  a  similar  manner  to  the 
wood  leopard  moth  caterpillar,  but  as  you  cannot  find  any  hole  or  holes, 
dress  the  base  of  the  tree  with  nicotine  compound  or  strong  tobacco 
juice,  applying  by  means  of  a  brush,  which  would  certainly  have  a 
deterring  effect.  The  bleeding  would  probably  be  checked  by  dressing 
the  wound  with  patent  knotting,  styptic,  or  best  French  polish,  forcing 
the  article  used  well  into  wound. 
