September  27,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
295 
Forthcoming  Shows. 
As  is  usual  at  this  time  of  the  year  we  have  received  numerous 
intimations  of  Chrysanthemum  shows  which  are  to  be  held  during 
the  coming  season.  Space,  however,  can  only  be  found  for  mentioning 
those  that  have  been  advertised  in  our  columns.  We  append  the 
dates  of  such  fixtures,  with  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  respective 
secretaries : — 
Oct.  9,  10,  11. — Royal  Aquarium. — R.  Dean,  V.M.H.,  42,  Ranelagh  Rd., 
Ealing,  AV. 
Nov.  9,  10. — Sheffield. — Wm.  Housley,  28,  Joshua  Road,  Sheffield. 
„  14,  15. — Hull. — Edward  Harland,  Manor  Street,  Hull;  Jas.  Dixon, 
F.R.H.S.,  2,  County  Buildings,  Hull. 
„  14,  15,  16. — York. — G.  F.  W.  Oman,  38,  Petergate,  York. 
„  16,  17. — Bolton. — Jas.  Hicks,  Markland  Hill  Lane,  Heaton,  Bolton. 
,,  16,  17. — Bradford. — R.  Eichel,  Eldwick,  Bingley. 
Some  of  Their  Enemies. 
It  is  when  Chrysanthemums  have  reached  their  final  and  most 
important  stage  that  a  sharper  look  out  should  be  kept  in  order  to 
checkmate  the  designs  of  the  enemies  incidental  to  them  at  this  season. 
They  are  at  the  present  time  in  a  most  vulnerable  condition,  and 
should  the  buds  be  injured  in  any  way  the  damage  is  irreparable. 
When  this  occurs  it  is  vexatious  and  disheartening  to  see  the  work  of 
many  months  simply  thrown  away,  and  even  worse  when  it  happens, 
as  it  frequently  does,  from  purely  preveutible  causes.  It  is  very 
strange  to  notice  the  manner  in  which  earwigs  attack  the  finest 
buds  and  leave  the  smaller  ones  untouched.  I  have  seen  traces  of 
these  pests  in  so  many  colhctions  that  I  conclude  this  season  has 
brought  us  a  more  plentiful  supply  than  usual.  It  will  be  found 
advisable  to  look  the  plants  carefully  over  after  dark,  which  is  the 
chosen  time  fir  their  nefarious  operations,  when  with  the  aid  of  a 
light  they  can  be  caught  and  destroyed.  Aphides  are  very  trouble¬ 
some  some  seasons.  When  Chrysanthemums  arrive  at  maturity  it  is 
difficult  to  thoroughly  eradicate  aphides,  but  a  moderate  fumigation 
will  serve  to  keep  them  f  om  preying  on  and  damaging  the  buds, 
while  it  will  not  injure  the  flowers  which  have  opened.  Some 
varieties,  chiefly  the  less  vigorous,  are  very  susceptible  to  attacks  of 
mildew,  which  spreads  rapidly  and  is  very  (xhau-iting  to  the  plants. 
To  check  it  ihe  infected  parts  should  be  lightly  dusted  with  flowers 
of  sulphur,  air  being  admi'-ted  more  freely,  and  a  little  fire  heat  at 
night  will  be  very  beneficial.  Different  kinds  of  maggots  occasionally 
form  nd  breed  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  They  soon  increase 
in  number  and  voracity,  and  should  be  aemolished  as  soon  as  observed. 
Watering. 
A  frequent  cause  of  failure  wifh  the  inexperienced  is  an  inadequate 
supply  of  water  to  the  roots.  Plants  often  appear  moist  on  the  suiface 
when  they  are  in  reality  suffering  from  drought  further  down.  When 
under  glas.-i  they  do  not  give  the  person  in  charge  notice  of  the  fact  by 
flagging  and  drooping  so  readily  as  they  do  when  out  of  doors  and 
expost  d  to  wind  and  sunshine.  Any  doubt  on  this  point  can  bo 
quickly  set  at  rest  by  tapping  the  pot  smartly  with  the  knuckles.  If 
the  plant  is  dry  the  sound  will  tie  hollow  and  ringing,  and  if  wet  it 
will  be  a  dull  and  heavy  one.  A  little  practice  will  soon  accustom  the 
dullest  ear  to  the  difference  in  the  sounds  by  which  plants,  so  to 
speak,  express  their  feelings. 
Trapping  Earwigs. 
When  bamboo  canes  are  used  to  stake  Chrysanthemums  the  pith 
inside  the  cane  sometimes  decays  and  falls  out,  leaving  an  open 
aperture  extending  as  far  as  the  first  joint.  One  season  we  were 
troubled  with  eat  wigs,  and  all  the  u.  ual  remedies  in  the  way  of  traps 
prO' dug  ii  efficicious,  we  were  compelled  to  hunt  them  at  night,  and 
destroy  tfiem  one  by  one  as  caught.  But  still  their  hiding  places 
could  not  be  di-cuvered,  and  flower  buds  were  damaged  nightly  until 
the  matter  became  serious.  It  was  quite  accidentally  that  their 
haunts  were  discovered,  A  plant  had  been  killed  by  overwatering,  and 
the  bamboo  stak.-  being  removed  sudden  y,  several  earwigs  hastily  hft 
their  hiding  place.  An  immediate  investigation  was  made  and  it  was 
discovered  that  every  stake  with  a  hollow  top  contained  several 
earwigs,  the  insects  in  many  casts  having  assisted  nature  by  eating 
out  the  pith,  and  forming  a  snug  retreat  some  distance  down  the 
inside  of  the  canes.  The  most  speedy  way  of  dealing  with  this  state 
of  affairs,  after  due  deliberation,  was  thought  to  be  as  follows : — A 
quantity  of  putty  was  mixed  with  a  large  percentage  of  red  lead,  and 
this  was  used  to  fill  the  boles  in  the  canes  caused  by  the  decay  of  the 
material  forming  their  centres.  The  earwigs  left  alive  in  the  canes 
thus  hermetically  sealed  down,  could  not  escape,  and  consequently 
perished.  Since  then  care  is  taken  to  stop  all  holes  with  the  mixture 
as  soon  as  they  are  formed,  consequently  we  have  not  suffered  to  any 
extent  from  their  depredations. — E. 
Housing  and  After  Treatment. 
Every  gardener  who  has  a  valuable  collection  of  the  best  varieties 
of  Chrysanthemums  is  now  meditating  taking  action  to  remove  them 
safely  under  cover,  especially  those  plants  which  have  buds  well 
advanced.  Even  in  the  absence  of  rain  or  frost  a  considerable  amount 
of  moisture  condenses  upon  the  plants  during  the  nights  when  the  sky 
is  clear,  and  though  the  dew  is  refreshing  and  invigorating  to  the 
foliage,  it  has  not  such  a  good  effect  upon  opening  buds,  hence  the 
advice  to  house  forward  plants  without  delay.  All  the  midseason 
varieties  must  be  dealt  with  in  placing  them  under  cover.  Those  who 
possess  a  structure  specially  set  apart  for  accommodating  plants  are 
in  a  better  position  than  many  who  may  have  to  find  room  for  them 
among  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  other  subjects,  and  where  the  best 
conditions  as  regards  light,  air,  and  temperature  cannot  be  afforded 
them.  In  such  cases  a  certain  amount  of  scheming  is  inevitable. 
It  should  be  remembered  in  housing  Chrysanthemums  that  the 
plants  require  to  be  gradually  inured  to  under  glass  treatment,  and  it 
does  not  answer  to  place  them  in  a  structure  where  plenty  of  air  cannot 
be  admitted.  The  change  from  outdoor  conditions  will  be  felt 
immensely  by  the  plants  if  the  uninterrupted  supplies  of  air  and 
light  are  suddenly  curtailed  to  such  an  extent  as  would  be  the  case 
in  some  structures.  An  unheated  house  is  best  for  the  plants  at  first, 
but  if  they  are  to  remain  in  the  structure  to  bloom  the  means  of 
heating  should  be  available,  but  not  employed  more  than  necessary. 
Shade  from  the  roof  should  be  absent,  but  top  and  bottom  ventilation 
easily  and  fully  given.  A  little  temporary  shading  may  be  readily 
improvised  when  any  special  flowers  need  it.  Avoid  standing  the  pots 
on  borders  if  possiole  that  are  set  apart  for  the  growth  of  plants.  Vines, 
or  Peaches.  The  constant  demand  of  Chrysanthemums  for  water  is 
apt  to  render  the  soil  of  these  borders  sour  and  cause  other  evils.  The 
growth  of  the  Chrysanthemums  may  also  be  disorganised  by  the  plants 
rooting  through  the  bottom  of  the  pots. 
Another  matter  i.s  overcrowding.  The  leaves  are  still  performing 
their  functions,  and  require  the  greatest  amount  of  light,  with  room  to 
expand  and  receive  it.  Crowding  causes  mildew,  yellow  foliage,  and 
ultimitely  dead  leaves,  which  harbour  earwigs. 
Immediately  after  housing  no  stimulants  ought  to  be  given  for  a 
week  until  some  advance  has  been  male  in  the  swelling  of  buds. 
Only  supply  clean  water,  and  moisten  the  floor  and  stages  about  the 
plants  on  very  bright  days.  Leave  the  ventilators  open  day  and 
night,  the  door  also  if  the  weather  is  calm.  The  supply  of  water  is 
best  given  in  the  mornings,  and  each  plant  examined  separately  unless 
its  wants  are  clearly  apparent.  In  the  event  of  mildew  appearing 
dust  the  under  sides  of  leaves  with  sulphur.  For  black  or  green  fly 
in  the  tips  of  shoots  employ  tobacco  powder,  though  vapourising  or 
fumigating  is  a  better  means  of  banishing  the  pests.  Earwigs  may 
be  more  or  less  troublesome  if  brought  in  with  the  plants,  and  a 
look-out  should  be  kept  for  them,  trapping  them  by  the  usual  methods. 
Di^budding  superfluous  flower  buds  on  terminal  shoots  is  an 
operation  which  requires  to  be  carried  on  daily  for  some  time.  One 
bud  left  on  each  terminal  shoot  is  sufficient  if  good  flowers  are  wanted. 
The  crown  buds  of  late  plants  should  be  taken  as  they  show,  that  is, 
the  growths  immediately  round  them  must  be  gradually  rubbed  out. 
The  small  side  shoots  which  appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  on  main 
stems  are  superfluous  and  should  be  removed  together  with  other 
stem  shoots  and  basal  growths.  The  feeding  and  stimulating  of  the 
plants  may  be  renewed  as  soon  as  buds  swell,  giving  weak  doses  of 
clear  manure  water  made  from  animal  manures  or  soot,  varied  by 
sprinklings  of  artificials  watered  in.  The  gre.atest  care  must  be  taken 
with  the  weaker  rooting  varieties. 
A  certain  amount  of  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  and  surroundings 
is  beneficial,  but  any  excess  will  cause  damping  of  the  blooms  and 
mildew  on  the  foliage.  This  may  be  rectified  by  the  application  of 
artificial  heat  to  dry  up  the  free  amount  of  moisture,  using  plenty  of 
air  at  the  same  time  if  the  weather  is  clear,  but  in  foggy  weather  the 
ventilators  will  be  better  closed.  In  addition  to  regulating  moisture 
by  artificial  heat,  the  judicious  use  of  it  assists  the  blooms  to  develop, 
especially  those  of  good  substance  and  deep  build,  inasmuch  as  they 
contain  material  which,  should  any  checks  occur  in  the  development, 
are  peculiarly  liable  to  damping. 
Water  ought  not  to  allowed  to  stand  in  pools  on  the  floor  of  any 
structure  in  which  Chrysanthemums  are  developing  flowers.  When 
the  moisture  has  diained  from  the  pots  wipe  it  up  as  dry  as  possible. 
— E.  D.  S. 
