302 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  27,  1900. 
All  correspondence  relating^  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
liondon,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Fink  Carnation  {H.  P.  TT.). — We  know  of  no  Carnation  having  a 
strong  scent  that  is  of  the  precise  shade  you  require.  Miss  Joliffe 
Improved  is  practically  identical  in  colour,  but  it  lacks  perfume.  You 
might  address  your  query  to  Mr.  Robert  Sydenham,  Tenby  Street, 
Birmingham,  whose  knowledge  of  Carnations  is  peculiarly  wide. 
Cutting  Back  Rhododendrons  (E.  A.  D.). — Rhododendrons  may  be 
cut  in  to  any  extent  and  form  desired,  and  will  start  again  freely,  but 
will  be  a  few  years,  if  pruned  much,  before  they  become  good  specimens. 
The  best  time  to  cut  them  back  is  in  April,  though  this  involves  the 
loss  of  next  season’s  crop  of  flowers.  It  is  well  if  in  cutting  back 
to  leave  some  young  growths,  as  they  start  more  freely  from  young 
growth  than  wood  of  considerable  age.  If  weak  as  well  as  old,  it  is 
likely  they  may  not  start  again  freely  if  cut  back  to  the  old  strong 
'wood.  We  have  cut  back  some  from  appearance  over  fifty  years  old, 
which  have  started  freely  and  formed  good  specimens. 
Culture  of  Bignonia  radicans  (/.  ft).— This  is  the  hardiest  of  the 
Bignonias,  and  in  favourable  positions  succeeds  outdoors.  The  growth 
must  be  well  ripened  in  order  that  flowering  may  be  satisfactory. 
Thin  out  the  weakest  wood,  leaving  that  retained  so  that  sun  and  air 
may  thoroughly  mature  it.  The  unripened  ends  may  be  pruned  away. 
Next  season  side  growths  will  issue  from  the  stems,  and  these  will  bear 
the  flowers.  Bignonias  generally  thrive  in  a  compost  of  fibry  loam, 
peat,  sand,  and  charcoal.  The  position  in  which  they  planted  should  be 
well  drained,  abundance  of  water  being  required  in  the  summer,  but 
little  in  winter,  not,  however,  allowing  them  to  suffer  from  dryness. 
Peach  Dr.  Hogg  (Zn^Mirer). — This  fine  Peach  thrives  perfectly 
against  an  open  wall  if  it  is  thoroughly  screened  from  north-east  winds 
in  the  spring,  to  the  baneful  effects  of  which  its  foliage  is  so  sensitive 
as  to  be  often  destroyed.  The  tree  is  a  vigorous  grower,  and  the  fruit 
is  large,  handsome,  highly  coloured,  and  of  delicious  flavour.  It  is  in 
the  front  rank  of  second  early  varieties,  but  owing  to  its  tendency  to 
suffer  seriously  from  leaf  blister  in  unkindly  springs,  the  more  robust 
Rivers’  Early  York  should  always  be  planted  with  it.  This  rule  holds 
good  also  with  both  early  and  late  kinds.  With  Hale’s  Early  plant 
Early  Beatrice,  which  is  much  better  out  of  doors  than  in,  and  to  follow 
Dr.  Hogg  there  is  none  better  than  Grosse  Mignonne,  and  for  late  sorts 
Barrington  and  Walburton  Admirable. 
Grubs  in  SoU  (Grub).— The  “  white- grub  ”  is  the  larva  of  the  root 
fly,  Anthomyia  radicum,  which  is  on  the  wing  throughout  the  summer, 
and  successive  generations  of  maggots  are  kept  up  till  November,  and 
probably  under  glass  throughout  the  year.  Eggs  are  deposited  on  or 
near  the  root-stems  of  various  plants,  and  the  maggots  hatching 
therefrom  eat  passages  in  the  stems  and  roots,  and  cause  considerable 
injury  to,  if  not  destroying,  the  affected  plants.  W^hen  full-grown  the 
maggots  leave  the  plants  and  turn,  in  the  earth,  to  pupm.  In  the  other 
package  we  found  nothing  but  a  maggot  with  a  black  head,  which  is  the 
larvas  of  the  Radish  fly,  Anthomyia  floralis.  As  you  dress  potting  soil 
with  a  mixture  of  Jeyes’  fluid,  nitrate  of  soda,  and  boiling  water  the 
flies  cannot  be  introduced  as  pupae  in  the  soil,  and  the  watering  with  a 
weak  solution  of  the  same  certainly  ought  to  have  a  good  effect.  We 
have  invariably  found  gas  liquor,  one  part  to  five  parts  water,  fatal  to 
all  grubs  and  maggots,  and  your  finding  otherwise  is  to  us  inexplicable, 
unless  the  gas  liquor  has  been  very  weak.  To  combat  the  flies  we 
advise  the  procuring  of  some  strips  of  tin,  about  the  size  of  ordinary 
envelopes,  and  a  corresponding  number  of  small  stakes  about  as  thick 
as  the  middle  finger  and  18  inches  in  length,  pointing  the  thickest  end, 
and  making  a  slit  down  the  stake  at  the  other  end.  Introduce  the 
strip  of  tin  into  the  slit  firmly,  and  dress  both  sides  of  it  with  a  smear 
formed  of  two-thirds  resin,  melted,  and  one  third  sweet  oil.  Thrust  the 
pointed  end  of  the  stick  into  the  soil — it  may  be  of  a  pot — so  the  strips 
of  smeared  tin  will  be  firm  and  vertical,  placing  about  a  yard  apart. 
The  flies  will  probably  alight  on  the  traps,  and  the  mischief  will  be 
arrested,  as  they  must  have  aerial  flights  before  eggs  can  possibly  be 
deposited.  Strips  of  cardboard  smeared  with  myocum,  or  fly-gum,  may 
be  used  instead  of  strips  of  tin.  In  case  of  disinfected  soil  it  would  be 
advisable  to  use  a  mixture  of  superphosphate  of  lime  nine  parts,  nitrate 
of  potash  five  parts,  nitrate  of  soda  seven  parts,  and  sulphate  of  lime 
seven  parts,  mixed,  spreading  the  compost  out  about  a  foot  deep,  and 
sprinkling  on  each  square  yard  4  ozs.  of  the  mixture,  then  turn  over 
several  times  before  use.  This  will  benefit  the  plants  potted  with  it, 
if  not  prevent  the  flies  depositing  their  eggs.  The  maggot  may  be 
destroyed  by  watering  with  clear  lime  water. 
Roses  Mildewed  {F.  G.  G.). — Mildew  is  usually  the  most  prevalent 
when  the  roots  of  Roses  are  in  poor  and  too  dry  soil,  and  the  position 
is  more  or  less  low  and  sheltered.  Syringing  the  plants  with  water 
containing  2  ozs.  of  softsoap  in  each  gallon,  and  while  still  wet  dusting 
the  affected  parts  with  sulphur,  is  a  good  remedy ;  but  at  this  season 
the  ends  of  the  worst  shoots  may  be  cut  off  and  burned.  Copious 
applications  of  liquid  manure  to  the  roots  would  almost  certainly  be 
beneficial.  Not  knowing  the  nature  of  the  soil  we  are  unable  to  say 
whether  lime  would  improve  it  or  not. 
Treatment  Of  Vines  (iVovice). — It  would  no  doubt  afford  some  relief 
to  remove  three  of  the  seven  Vines,  not  only  as  regards  the  roots  but 
the  growths,  as  these  with  more  light  and  air  would  be  better  able  to 
elaborate  the  sap,  and  store  matter  for  the  support  of  the  crop.  It  is 
believed  by  some  that  starvation  will  cause  shankinor,  also  keeping  too 
dry  at  the  roots.  Vines,  however,  ought  not  to  suffer  from  either  lack 
of  nourishment  or  insufficient  supplies  of  water.  It  is  easy  to  supply 
both,  especially  as  the  roots  are  entirely  under  control,  and  the  drainage 
being  good  and  the  border  composed  of  the  proper  material  there  is  no 
reason  why  Grapes  should  not  be  produced  with  few  or  no  shanked 
berries  under  proper  management. 
Scale  on  Pears  (J.  L.). — The  pest  infesting  your  Pear  tree  is  that  of 
Aspidiotus  ostreseformis,  or  Pear  tree  Oyster  scale,  which  you  cannot 
now  remove,  except  with  the  point  of  a  knife  or  similar  instrument, 
and  it  is  well  worth  while  removing  it  from  the  fruits,  as  it  very  often 
seriously  disfigures  them  at  or  near  the  shank.  The  best  remedy  is  to 
unnail  the  tree,  if  against  a  wall,  and  wash  every  branch  and  shoot 
with  a  half. worn  paint-brush,  giving  every  part  a  good  scrubbing,  but 
being  careful  of  the  bloom-buds  or  spurs,  so  as  not  to  injure  them,  and 
yet  free  them  of  the  enemy.  The  solution  with  which  the  trees  are  to 
be  washed  consists  of  8  ozs  of  softsoap  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  water. 
It  should  be  done  immediately  the  leaves  fall,  and  should  be  repeated — 
i.e.,  the  brushing  and  scrubbing,  two  or  three  times,  but  not  the  washing 
with  the  soap  solution,  for  this  must  be  reduced  in  strength,  6  ozs. 
being  sufficient  for  a  gallon  of  water  as  the  spring  approaches.  As  a 
preventive,  the  tree  may  be  dressed  in  February  with  a  composition 
formed  of  the  soap  solution  previously  named,  and  brought  to  the 
consistency  of  paint  by  adding  equal  parts  of'  fresh  soot,  lime,  and 
sulphur,  applying  it  with  a  paint  brush  to  every  shoot  or  branch, 
working  it  into  any  hole,  angle,  or  crevice. 
Lord  Suffield  Apple  Tree  Leaves  with  Browned  Spots  and  Patches 
(Somerset). — The  leaves  are  affected  with  a  fungus,  Septoria  oxyacanthoe, 
which  also  attacks  the  living  leaves  of  Hawthorn,  Pear,  and  other 
rosaceous  trees,  first  indicating  attack  by  small  discoloured  spots, 
generally  of  a  purplish  hue.  In  a  short  time  these  spots  turn  brown, 
while  in  some  cases  many  of  the  affected  areas  separate  from  the 
surrounding  portion  of  the  leaf  and  fall  to  the  ground,  leaving  holes, 
which  have  given  the  disease  the  name  of  “shot  hole”  fungus.  Under 
a  lens  the  brown  spots  show  a  few  black  dots,  where  the  reproductive 
spores  are  developing.  The  fungus  is  believed  to  live  over  the  winter 
on  and  in  the  leaves.  The  fallen  leaves,  therefore,  should  be  collected 
and  burned-  The  disease  may  be  prevented  by  spraying  with  dilute 
Bordeaux  mixture,  say  1  oz.  of  copper  sulphate  and  I  oz.  of  freshly 
burned  lime  to  2  gallons  of  water.  It  should  be  applied  by  means  of  a 
spray  diffuser,  such  as  used  by  hairdressers,  first  before  the  blossoms 
open ;  then  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  well  formed  spray  again,  and  repeat 
the  application  twice  later  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks.  It  should 
not  be  applied  too  late,  on  account  of  the  mixture  being  liable  to  remain 
on  the  ripened  fruit.  For  this  reason  it  has  been  advised  to  use  a 
solution  of  sulphide  of  potassium,  1  oz,  to  6  gallons  of  water  at  the  first 
two  sprayings,  and  increase  the  strength  at  the  next  two  one-fourth,  or 
I  oz.  to  44  gallons  of  water.  The  treatment  is  equally  effective  against 
Apple  scab  fungus,  Cladosporium  dendriticum. 
Propagating  Shrubby  Calceolarias  (J.  K.). — Cuttings  of  shrubby 
Calceolarias  will  root  if  put  in  any  time  during  October  and  till  late  in 
November,  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  defer  propagation  very  late,  or 
severe  frost  may  spoil  the  cuttings.  A  cold  frame  or  pit  is  the  best 
place  for  rooting  and  wintering  the  cuttings,  and  if  a  heated  pit  is  used 
the  heat  in  the  hot-water  pipes  should  be  turned  on  in  frosty  weather 
only,  the  aim  being  to  keep  the  plants  alive,  but  not  in  active  growth. 
A  fairly  dry  and  well-drained  position  should  be  selected  for  the  frames 
or  hand-lights.  No  heating  material  whatever  should  be  used,  but  the 
frames  may  be  stood  on  a  shallow  firmly  built  bed  of  spent  manure  and 
leaves,  more  of  this  material  being  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  frames ; 
on  this  to  be  put  about  6  inches  of  fairly  good  loamy  soil,  finishing  off 
firmly  and  evenly  with  half  that  depth  of  light  sandy  soil,  a  surfacing 
of  sand  completing  the  bed,  and  this  should  bring  back  the  cuttings 
when  inserted  to  within  6  inches  or  less  of  the  glass.  Hard  “  wiry  ” 
cuttings  are  not  suitable,  and  the  preference  should  be  given  to  those 
that  are  flowerless,  short-jointed,  and  fairly  but  not  over-succulent,  and 
they  should  be  trimmed  and  put  in  at  once.  All  should  be  about 
3  inches  in  length  and  cut  to  a  joint,  the  lower  pair  of  leaves  only 
being  trimmed  off.  They  may  be  dibbled  in  about  3  inches  apart  each 
way,  every  cutting  touching  the  bottom  of  the  hole  made,  and  firmly 
fixed.  A  watering  through  a  fine  rose  should  be  given,  and  the  frame, 
pit,  or  hand-lights,  as  the  case  may  be,  kept  close  and  shaded  from 
bright  sunshine  till  the  cuttings  are  rooted,  this  taking  from  six  weeks 
to  two  months  to  accomplish,  after  which  time  they  should  receive 
abundance  of  air  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
