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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  11,  1900. 
cause  of  Bhanking.  In  the  former  case  the  surface  soil  should  be 
removed  to  a  depth  at  which  roots  are  found  to  be  fairly  plentiful ; 
this  may  be  at  from  6  to  12  inches  from  the  top.  As  the  work 
proceeds  all  healthy  roots  ought  to  be  carefully  preserved,  by  tying 
them  to  stakes  inserted  at  intervals  in  the  border.  When  the  borders 
are  wide  I  always  like  to  take  out  a  trench  at  the  extremity, quite 
down  to  the  drainage,  as  the  general  condition  of  the  roots  can  then 
be  ncted.  From  18  inches  to  2  feet  is  a  suitable  width  for  such 
a  trench,  and  all  roots  should  be  cut  off  close  to  the  inside  of  the 
trench. 
After  examining,  and  if  necessary  re-arranging,  the  drainage,  the 
trench  must  be  filled  with  prepared  compost  pressed  moderately  firm. 
Such  a  fresh,  sweet  body  of  soil  usually  attracts  plenty  of  root.®, 
which  soon  form  a  network  in  it,  greatly  to  the  benefit  of  the  Vines. 
Strong  fibreless  roots  may  be  cut  away  in  making  the  trench,  they 
can  well  be  spared  to  make  room  for  the  active  fibres  which  their 
curtailment  causes  to  be  produced.  The  main  portion  of  the  border 
should  next  receive  attention.  Place  upon  it  a  layer  of  soil,  then 
spread  out  the  roots  in  all  directions,  cutting  notches  in  strong  ones  to 
encourage  the  production  of  fibres.  When  the  soil  has  been  excavated 
to  a  considerable  depth  it  is  unwise  to  arrange  all  the  roots  in  one 
layer ;  some  should  be  reserved  for  spreading  out  near  the  surface,  and 
covering  with  a  few  inches  of  soil,  this  to  be  trodden  moderately  firmly 
and  then  levelled  with  a  fork. 
Before  the  above  operations  are  commenced  the  roof  of  the  house 
ought  to  be  shaded,  then  by  syringing  the  foliage  of  the  Vines  for  a 
couple  of  weeks  it  will  keep  firm  and  fresh,  and  by  maintaining  the 
circulation  of  sap  help  to  encourage  the  formation  of  young  roots. 
Vines  su  treated  at  the  present  time  may,  without  misgiving,  be  started 
at  the  end  of  December.  In  dealing  with  Vines  which  are  in  a  very 
unsatisfactory  state,  which  is  shown  by  badly  coloured  Grapes,  long  in 
the  shoulder,  and  by  unripened  wood,  a  bo'der  method  must  be  a ’opted. 
If  there  is  an  inside  border  as  well  as  an  outside  one,  the  whole  of  the 
soil  in  the  former  may  be  cleared  out  and  replaced  by  fresh,  the  outside 
border  being  treated  in  a  similar  way  next  year.  In  many  cases, 
however,  there  is  only  one  border,  and  a  certain  amount  of  caution  has 
then  to  be  exercised.  The  plan  I  have  found  to  answer  admirably  is  the 
following  one :  Take  out  a  trench  at  the  extremity,  and  preserve  all 
healthy  roots  found  ;  then  fork  out  the  soil  from  between  the  roots  up 
to  within  3  feet  of  the  Vine  stems.  As  the  work  proceeds  tie  the  roots 
in  bundles  to  strong  stakes,  and  cover  them  with  mats  to  prevent  them 
from  becoming  very  dry.  and  in  bright  weather  damp  the  ruots 
occasionally.  The  remaining  3  feet  of  border  should  not  be  disturbed 
except  on  the  top,  where  from  9  to  12  inches  of  soil  may  be  re  noved. 
The  drainage  should  next  be  cleared  out,  the  pipes  (if  any)  relaid, 
and  covered  with  6  inches  of  broken  bricks  or  clinkers,  over 
which  place  some  rough  straw,  and  then  add  a  layer  of  turf  with 
the  grass  side  downward  ;  all  is  then  ready  for  refilling  the  border. 
In  doing  this  if  possible  keep  the  bulk  of  the  roots  within  a  foot  or 
15  inches  of  the  surface,  as  they  generally  find  their  way  downward 
quickly  enough.  Cut  away  all  damaged  or  decaying  roots,  remove 
the  points  of  others,  and  spread  them  out  in  layers  so  as  to 
distribute  them  evenly  over  the  surface  of  each  layer  of  soil, 
and  press  the  compost  firmly.  When  the  border  is  more  than  6  feet  in 
width  it  is  sometimes  a  good  plan  to  reduce  it  to  that  width  by  piling 
up  a  wall  ot  turf  to  form  the  boundary  and  bending  the  roots  back¬ 
wards,  so  as  to  get  them  within  the  lessened  space.  A  narrow  border 
packed  with  roots  will  give  infinitely  better  results  than  a  wide  one  in 
which  roots  are  not  plentiful,  as  in  the  latter  case  it  is  not  an  easy 
matter  to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  sour. 
After  the  renovation  is  completed,  an  outside  border  may  with 
advantage  receive  a  coating  of  rough  manure  or  leaves,  to  prevent  frost 
from  penetrating  to  the  roots,  but  with  an  inside  border  I  prefer  to 
leave  the  soil  fully  exposed  to  air  and  sunshine  until  active  growth  is 
going  on,  then  a  mulch  is  beneficial.  When  this  bold  method  of 
renoyating  is  adopted  with  Vines  in  an  early  house  they  should  not 
be  started  till  the  end  of  January,  and  if  cropped  lightly  for  the  first 
year  after  being  disturbed  vastly  improved  results  will  follow. 
In  connection  with  the  improvement  of  old  Vines  by  border 
renovation,  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  how  beneficial  is  the  practice  of 
leaving  a  little  more  young  wood  at  pruning  time,  by  adopting  the 
long  spur  system  of  pruning.  A  good  crop  of  Grapes  usually 
satisfies  an  employer,  even  if  the  rods  are  not  particularly  “  smart  ” 
in  appearance ;  but  a  neatly  pruned  Vine  which  subsequently  carries 
only  inferior  Grapes  satisfies  no  one,  except  during  its  season  of  rest. 
After  vigour  has  been  restored  young  rods  can  be  taken  up  and  the 
old  ones  by  degrees  be  cut  out. 
Although  I  have  left  till  last  the  consideration  of  a  suitable 
compost  to  employ  in  Vine  borders,  it  is  certainly  not  because  it  lacks 
importance.  Good  loam  of  medium  texture,  having  plenty  of  fibre, 
should  be  the  principal  ingredient;  to  eight  loads  of  this  add  one  of 
horse  manure,  half  a  load  of  old  mortar,  and  2  cwts.  of  bonemeal. 
The  latter  phosphate  is,  I  think,  not  generally  used  so  freely  as  it 
should  be  for  Vines,  as  it  favours  the  production  of  short-jointed,, 
hard,  closely-grained  wood,  which  is  the  forerunner  of  compact,  well 
finished  bunches  of  Grapes. — H.  Dunkin. 
Tlfe  Best  Cactus  Dahlias. 
It  will  probably  be  of  considerable  interest  to  many  readers  of  the- 
Journal  of  Sor^fcttZ^Mre— particularly,  perhaps,  to  amateurs — to  know 
of  a  dozen  really  good  Cactus  Dahlias — in  fact,  the  best  dozen  we  have 
of  different  colours.  In  making  the  selection  of  these  I  have  taken 
them  mostly  from  an  exhibition  point  of  view,  although  nearly  all- 
are  also  amongst  the  best  for  the  decoration  of  the  garden,  and  in  one 
or  two  cases  they  are  the  tip-top  for  both  purposes. 
Beginning  with  the  yellow  Mrs.  J.  J.  Crowe  ;  this  is  undoubtedly- 
the  best,  being  of  beautiful  form,  large  size,  and  combining  with  its 
fine  flowers  a  good  habit.  For  white  we  must  still  come  to  Keynes*^ 
White,  although,  judging  from  this  year’s  new  whites,  it  will  soon  be 
surpassed ;  but  as  I  intend  to  include  only  varieties  in  commerce  it  is 
the  best.  In  very  dark  ones  we  have  Uncle  Tom,  an  almost  black  ; 
it  is  a  magnificent  variety  of  perfect  habit  and  exceptionally  free- 
flowering  qualities,  which  have  enabled  it  to  effectually  displace  the 
old  favourite  Night.  For  scarlet  we  have  Mrs.  Carter  Page,  which  is 
ver}'  pleasing  in  form  and  an  easy  grower. 
Viscountess  Sherbrooke,  terra-cotta,  is  especially  good  for  almost 
any  purpose,  and  is,  moreover,  a  very  dwarf  grower.  The  invincible 
Britannia  must  not  be  forgotten ;  its  everlasting  way  of  producing 
good  blooms  being  truly  marvellous.  Mary  Service  is  a  charming 
colour,  pinkish  heliotrope ;  the  flower  is  held  very  erectly  ;  its  only 
fault  is  its  rather  small  size.  Charles  Woodbridge,  although  old 
compared  with  the  others  named,  holds  its  own,  and  its  large  crimson- 
purple  flowers  are  always  good;  it  is  often  difficult  to  get  many  in 
perfection  together,  but  when  a  bloom  is  out  there  is  something  to 
look  at.  Then  we  have  Mayor  Tuppenny,  a  lovely  yellow  suffused 
with  orange,  which  has  been  truly  grand  this  summer;  it  is  a  pleasing 
break  in  colour  ;  and  Starfish,  orange  scarlet,  which  almost  everyone 
knows  by  this  time. 
The  list  would  not  be  complete  without  one  of  the  bicolored 
flowers,  and  taken  all  round  The  Clown,  red  tipped  white,  is  the  best ; 
it  is  a  tall,  strong,  erect  grower.  Magnificent,  rosy  salmon,  slightly 
heavy  perhaps,  but  nevertheless  good,  has  given  great  satisfaction  in 
many  gardens  this  autumn,  completes  the  dozen. 
We  therefore  have  Mrs.  J.  J.  Crowe,  yellow;  Keynes’  White, 
white;  Uncle  Tom,  very  dark;  Mrs.  Carter  Page,  scarlet ;  Viscountess 
Sherbrooke,  terra-cotta;  Britannia,  soft  salmon  ;  Mary  Service,  pinkish 
leliotrope;  Chas.  Woodbridge,  crimson  purple;  Mayor  Tuppenny, 
yellow  and  orange;  Starfish,  orange  scarlet;  The  Clown,  red  tipped 
white ;  and  Magnificent,  rosy  salmon.  For  an  extra  one  add  Countess 
of  Lonsdale,  which,  although  too  heavy  for  exhibition,  is  a  gem  for 
garden  decoration.  Having  grown  all  the  above  with,  1  think,  perfect 
success,  I  presume  that  no  one  will  find  any  of  these  disappointing  if 
they  give  them  a  trial  another  year. — F.  C.  C. 
