October  11,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
343 
WOKK^foi^theWEEK.. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — The  young  plants  that  are  to  afford  a  supply  of  fruit 
about  the  new  year,  thev  now  being  strong,  healthy,  and  well  rooted  in 
pots,  should  be  placed  out  on  ridges  or  hillocks,  training  with  a  single 
stem  to  the  trellis,  up  which  they  may  be  allowed  to  advance  two-thirds, 
when  the  lead  can  be  pinched.  Those  not  having  the  convenience  of  a 
Cnonmber  house  may  secure  fair  supplies  of  fruit  during  winter  by 
growing  the  plants  in  pots  or  boxes,  training  the  growths  near  the  glass 
over  the  paths  in  stoves,  fruiting  Pine  houses,  or  other  well-heated 
structures. 
Plants  in  full  bearing,  as  the  autumn-fruiters  now  are,  should  not  be 
overcropped,  or  the  fruit  allowed  to  remain  on  the  plants  after  it  is  fit 
to  cut,  removing  all  deformed  fruit  in  a  young  state.  Sudden  checks 
should  be  avoided,  such  as  those  occasioned  by  currents  of  cold  air,  and 
the  alternating  drying  and  steaming  of  the  atmosphere  by  irregular 
procedure,  as  these  are  responsible  for  stunted,  uneven  swelling  fruit, 
whilst  a  too  moist  atmosphere  and  also  close  causes  the  fruit  to  damp  at 
the  blossom  ends.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  5°  less 
in  the  morning,  75°  by  day,  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun,  admitting  a 
little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  at  every  favourable  opportunity.  The 
evaporation  troughs  should  still  be  charged  with  water  or  clear  liquid 
manure,  and  the  floor  damped  with  water  about  8  a.m.  and  4  p.m., 
dispensing  with  the  syringe  over  the  plants.  Reduce  the  supply  of  water 
at  the  roots,  but  not  so  much  as  to  cause  flagging. 
A  little  manure,  such  as  sweetened  horse  droppings  or  well  decayed, 
lumpy,  farmyard  material,  will  benefit  the  plants  through  the  waterings 
washing  the  elements  into  the  soil  and  the  moderate  amount  of  ammonia 
given  off,  but  this  must  not  be  excessive  or  the  foliage  will  be  injured. 
Keep  the  foliage  thin  and  the  glass  clear,  so  as  to  secure  thoroughly 
solidified  growth.  Subdue  canker  by  rubbing  quicklime  into  the 
affected  parts,  and  keep  mildew  in  subjection  by  dustings  of  sulphur 
or  the  blight  powders  advertised.  Fumigate  with  tobacco  or  vaporise 
with  nicotine  for  the  destruction  of  aphides,  which  are  unusually 
prevalent  this  season,  also  against  thrips,  and  if  there  be  any  mealy 
bug  it  succumbs  to  nicotine  vapour. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  trees  are  now 
leafless,  and  should  be  overhauled  for  pruning,  dressing  and  readjusting 
of  the  growths.  Where  due  regard  has  been  given  to  disbudding, 
preventing  overcrowding  and  removing  the  useless  growths  after  the 
fruits  were  gathered,  very  little  pruning  will  now  be  required. 
Weakly  and  unpromising  branches,  however,  may  often  be  advan¬ 
tageously  cut  out  in  favour  of  sturdy,  short-jointed  growths,  and 
unduly  long  shoots  be  shortened  so  as  to  originate  vigorous  ones  from 
them  at  the  proper  place  for  covering  the  trellis  evenly  with  bearing 
wood.  The  house  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  the  woodwork  with  soap 
(preferably  carbolic  or  soft),  water,  and  a  brush,  the  glass  with  clear 
water,  and  the  walls  limewashed,  adding  a  handful  of  flowers  of  sulphur 
to  a  pailful,  the  sulphur  being  first  formed  into  a  paste  with  a  little  skim 
milk.  The  trees  also  should  be  washed  with  a  softsoap  solution,  3  ozs. 
to  a  gallon  of  water,  applying  with  a  brush  and  taking  care  not  to 
dislocate  the  buds,  followingr  with  an  insecticide.  Likewise  the  border 
needs  attention,  removing  the  mulching  or  loose  surface  soil,  pointing 
over  very  lightly,  and  supplying  fresh  loam,  but  not  covering  the  roots 
more  than  2  inches.  About  a  quart  of  a  mixture,  in  equal  parts  by 
measure,  of  soot  and  air-slaked  lime,  with  a  pint  of  some  approved 
fertiliser,  may  be  mixed  advantageously  with  every  barrowload  of  the 
loam,  and  its  maimiial  elements  will  get  diffused  through  the  soil  by 
rains  or  watering,  and  be  available  as  food  when  the  trees  start  into 
growth.  The  roof -lights  may  remain  off  until  late  November  or  the 
approach  of  severe  weather,  frost  and  snow  sometimes  interfering  with 
their  replacement.  Both  outside  and  inside  borders  are  the  better  for 
whatever  rains  may  fall  up  to  starting,  provided  the  drainage  be 
thoroughly  effective,  and  no  covering  is  necessary  beyond  a  light  one  to 
prevent  the  soil  becoming  frozen,  for  no  roots  can  absorb  moisture  or 
nutriment  from  it  in  that  state. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  foliage  is  mainly  off,  but  some 
leaves  cling  to  the  latest  growths  with  remarkable  tenacity,  an 
indication  that  the  wood  is  not  so  well  matured  as  obtains  with  forced 
trees  generally,  yet  the  buds  are  sufficiently  plumped,  and  there  is 
nothing  to  fear  from  immaturity,  indeed  there  is  more  danger  from 
over  premature  ripening  in  the  buds  falling  than  from  somewhat  late 
retention  of  the  foliage.  Clear  away  the  leaves  as  they  fall,  and  when 
all  are  down  lose  no  time  in  having  the  house  thoroughly  cleaned,  the 
trees  pruned,  dressed,  and  tied  to  the  trellis,  top-dressing  the  border 
as  before  advised  unless  the  trees  have  been  lifted  or  root-pruned, 
when,  of  course,  it  will  not  be  necessary.  If  the  lights  are  movable 
they  may  be  taken  off,  or  if  already  off  they  need  not  be  replaced  till 
December,  otherwise  afford  all  the  air  possible,  and  keep  the  inside 
border  in  a  properly  moist  condition. 
Succession  Houses. — The  foliage  in  these  is  quite  green,  being 
somewhat  later  in  shedding,  where  quite  free  from  insects  and  red 
spider,  than  usual.  The  growths,  however,  are  firm,  and  the  buds 
quite  prominent  enough  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  Too  much  air 
cannot  be  admitted,  but  it  is  necessary  to  reduce  the  ventilation  on  cold 
nights,  or  close  the  house  in  case  of  severe  frost,  which  may  cause  the 
sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage,  and  prejudicially  affect  the  buds.  Any 
trees  that  are  unsatisfactory  should  be  root-pruned  or  lifted  as  soon  as 
the  foliage  is  matured  sufficiently,  as  is  the  case  when  giving 
indications  of  falling.  In  respect  of  young  trees  making  a  late  growth  it 
will  be  advisable  to  form  a  trench  at  a  distance  from  the  stem  equal  to 
about  one-third  the  spread  of  the  branches,  detaching  all  the  roots  and 
leaving  the  trench  open  for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  when  it  may  be 
filled  firmly.  This  checks  growth,  and  contributes  to  the  maturity  of 
the  wood  and  buds.  It  also  encourages  the  formation  of  fresh  rootlets, 
insuring  a  fibrous  formation  of  them,  which  will  decidedly  benefit  the 
setting  and  stoning  of  the  fruit.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the 
soil  to  become  dry  in  the  part  undisturbed. 
If 
HE  BEE-KEEPER^ 
1 
Winter  Passages. 
It  is  frequently  advantageous  to  make  winter  passiges  for  the 
bees,  as  it  gives  them  free  access  to  all  the  combs.  When  stocks  are 
wintered  in  hives  having  single  sides,  often  not  more  than  half  an 
inch  in  thickness,  they  are  easily  affected  by  the  changes  in  the 
temperature,  and  if  extreme  cold  should  set  in  it  is  a  great  advantage 
to  them  if  they  are  within  easy  reach  of  their  stores.  If  they  have  no 
passage  through  the  combs,  or  over  the  tops  of  the  frames,  they  must 
either  pass  round  the  ends  or  the  bottom'of  the  combs  to  reach  the 
necessary  food.  The  bees  during  the  dull  days  of  winter  usually 
cluster  in  the  middle  of  the  hive,  and  are  in  a  state  of  stupor.  They, 
however,  require  food.  If  they  leave  the  cluster  to  obtain  it  they  are 
often  unable  to  return. 
Early  in  the  spring  when  making  examinations  of  the  various 
colonies  in  our  own  and  other  apiaries,  we  have  found  weak  stocks  in 
which  there  were  several  seams  of  dead  bees  which  had  died  owing  to 
their  inability  to  reach  the  stores,  which  in  the  majority  of  instances 
were  only  a  few  inches  away.  Bees  as  a  rule  cluster  between  the 
empty  combs,  as  the  sealed  stores  are  cold  to  their  feet,  and  as  the 
food  is  consumed  above  them,  they  have  to  travel  to  the  next  comb  to 
obtain  it.  They  then  become  numbed  by  the  cold,  and  this  is  the 
reason  they  are  found  dead  the  following  spring. 
We  have  experimented  in  various  ways,  so  that  whatever  may 
happen  the  bees  should  not  die  from  want  whilst  there  were  ample 
stores  in  the  hive.  We  do  not  recommend  the  system  of  cutting 
holes  through  the  combs,  although  the  bees  themselves  often  make  pop 
holes.  Winter  passages  should  be  made  over  the  tops  of  the  frames  by 
placing  two  or  three  laths  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  in 
such  a  position  that  the  bees  may  pass  readily  from  one  comb  to  the 
other  without  becoming  chilled.  Ample  coverings  are  used  after  the 
quilt  has  been  placed  in  position. 
Packing  Hives  for  Winter. 
Although  the  days  have  been  warm  the  nights  are  getting 
gradually  colder,  and  no  time  should  be  lost  in  placing  extra  coverings 
on  the  hives.  Much  will  depend  on  the  class  of  hive  in  use.  If  it  is 
single  walled  the  bees  will  doubtless  ere  this  have  removed  the  stores 
from  the  two  outer  combs.  When  this  has  taken  place  it  is  an 
excellent  plan  to  remove  them,  and  in  their  places  |  ut  a  division 
board.  The  hive  will  thus  be  double  walled  all  round,  which  will  be 
an  advantage  should  the  winter  be  a  severe  one. 
If  the  hives  have  double  walls  and  an  open  space  at  the  sides  for 
winter  packing,  the  open  air  space  may  be  left  throughout  the  winter, 
or  be  filled  with  whatever  material  is  most  in  favour.  We  prefer  cork 
dust,  such  as  the  Almerian  Grapes  are  packed  in,  as  it  is  dry  and 
warm,  and  answers  the  purpose  admirabl}'.  Whatever  plan  is  adopted 
for  wintering,  there  should  be  an  abundance  of  warm  material  placed 
on  the  tops  of  the  frames.  It  should  be  of  an  open  porous  nature,  the 
moisture  will  then  not  condense  on  it,  as  it  will  on  waterproof 
material. — An  English  Bee-keepeb. 
- - 
Trade  Catalopes  Received. 
E.  P.  Dixon  &  Sons,  Hull. — Fruit  Trees  and  Roses. 
F.  C.  Heinemann,  Erfurt,  Germany. — Trade  List  of  Novelties  and 
Specialties. 
Chas.  Turner,  Royal  Nurseries,  Slough. — Roses. 
J.  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd.,  Chelsea.— Hardi/  Trees  and  Shrubs. 
