October  18,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
365 
experience  in  growing  or  attending  to,  and  would  expect  to  know  from 
a  former  employer  whether  he  was  efficient  in  any  particular  branch. 
From  the  nature  of  the  examination  it  seems  as  though  a  certificate 
may  be  as  much  a  testimonial  to  vigorous  cramming  as  to  anything 
else.  It  is  quite  conceivable  that  a  candidate  might  answer  correctly 
enough  on  paper  a  question  on  budding  or  grafting,  for  instance, 
without  ever  having  seen  the  operation  performed,  much  less  being 
able  to  do  it ;  or  he  might  write  out  a  detailed  account  of  the  culture  of 
the  Grape  and  the  Melon  without  knowing  a  Vine  from  a  Melon  plant — 
and,  in  fact,  to  obtain  almost  full  marks  for  each  of  four  of  the  eight 
questions  set  in  that  part  of  the  paper  relating  to  horticultural  practice. 
A  certificate  can  therefore  be  of  little  value  to  a  practical  gardener,  of 
whatever  grade,  as  a  recommendation  or  as  a  test  of  ability  in  his 
profession  ;  though,  on  the  other  hand, 'it  would  be  idle  to  argue  that  if 
a  candidate  takes  up  the  study  of  the  theoretical  side  of  his  work,  and 
reads  as  well  as  practises,  and  endeavours  to  understand  the  scientific 
reason  for  many  of  the  things  he  sees  done,  and  to  think  and  reason  out 
ways  and  means  for  himself,  he  can  derive  anything  but  benefit  from 
it,  whether  he  gets  a  certificate  or  not. 
But  with  the  centenary  of  the  Society  in  the  minds  of  its  Fellows, 
is  it  not  time  to  inquire  if  some  practicable  scheme  could  not  be 
inaugurated  for  organising  the  ranks  of  the  gardening  profession,  and 
some  method  evolved  whereby  a  diploma  or  certificate  could  be  given 
by  the  Society  to  those  deserving  it  ?  At  the  present  time  the 
gardening  employes,  almost  alone  among  the  trades,  are  without  any 
union  or  trade  society  whatever.  There  is  no  distinguishing  line  between 
a  man  who  is  a  gardener  and  one  who  is  not  a  gardener  ;  no  standard 
whereby  a  man  may  be  judged  an  efficient  horticultural  craftsman  or 
the  reverse,  and  as  a  consequence  there  are  many  men  posing  as 
practical  gardeners  who,  by  an  easily  obtained  testimonial  from  some 
good-natured  former  employer,  are  occupying  positions  for  which  they 
are  not  qualified,  to  the  detriment  of  the  place  under  their  charge,  and 
keeping  out,  it  may  be,  a  good  man  of  many  years’  experience.  Possibly 
to  this,  partly,  may  be  attributed  the  low  wages  which  rule  in  the 
gardening  industry,  for  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  waores,  both  in 
private  and  nursery  work,  whether  to  journeymen,  growers,  or  foremen, 
are,  generally  speaking,  lower  than  in  any  other  skilled  trade,  taking 
into  consideration  the  experience  required  and  the  amount  of  intelligence 
necessary  to  attain  even  moderate  success. 
It  is  a  fact  that  to  make  a  mark  in  gardening  a  greater  amount  of 
real  interest  in  the  work  than  in  most  other  callings  is  indispensable, 
but  in  these  times  the  gardener  alone  can  hardly  be  expected  to 
continue  on  for  mere  love  of  his  occupation  without  more  adequate 
remuneration  than  he  receives  at  present.  A  gardeners’  trade  union, 
on  the  lines  of  similar  organisations,  is  probably  impracticable,  and 
nothing  is  to  be  more  deprecated  than  any  attempt  to  stir  up  ill  feeling 
between  employer  and  employe,  or  to  disturb  the  amicable  relations 
generally  existing  between  them,  but  would  not  a  recognised  standard, 
such  as  that  which  would  be  provided  by  a  diploma  in  horticultural 
practice  from  the  R.H.S.  benefit  employers  as  well  as  employes  ?  If 
the  Society  could  devise  a  scheme  for  presenting  a  diploma  to 
any  gardener,  earning  his  living  as  such,  who  could  show  a  certain 
number  of  years’  reference,  say  five  or  six,  from  a  previous  employer 
or  employers,  and  present  a  satisfactory  character  from  his  present 
employer,  and  at  the  same  time  pass  an  examination  somewhat  similar 
to  that  held  at  present  by  the  R.H.S.  as  practical  as  a  written 
examination  can  be,  and  with  special  reference  to  that  branch  which 
he  may  have  made  his  specialty,  a  standard  would  be  created  which  it 
ought  to  be  the  ambition  of  every  gardener  to  attain  to.  It  would  assist 
in  preventing  incompetent  men  taking  places  to  which  they  are  not 
entitled,  and  thus  mitigate  the  tendency  towards  lower  wages,  and 
would  be  of  benefit  to  employers  by  calling  into  existence  a  class  of 
men  on  whom  when  engaging  they  could  usually  rely. 
Such  a  scheme  would,  of  course,  require  the  co-operation  and  support 
of  all  those  amateurs  and  nurserymen  who  have  the  interest  of  gardening 
at  heart;  it  would  necessitate  an  understanding  that  good  references 
were  not  to  be  given  unless  thoroughly  deserved,  and  perhaps  a  not 
too  indulgent  system  of  marking  examination  papers ;  and  it  would 
entail  some  labour  on  any  Fellows  who  might  place  themselves  at  the 
disposal  of  the  Society  as  inspectors  or  examiners.  Considering, 
however,  the  benefit  which  might  accrue  to  all  those  engaged  in 
gardening,  the  better  standing  of  the  trade  in  public  estimation  when 
no  one  will  be  able  to  remark,  “  Oh,  anybody  can  be  a  gardener,”  and 
the  greater  sense  of  security  which  might  be  experienced  by  all  sections 
of  the  gardening  industry  ;  the  employer  by  knowing  that  a  man 
who  can  show  his  diploma  is  probably  a  good  and  trustworthy  man, 
and  the  employe  by  possessing  something  to  show  that  he  is  an 
intelligent  and  efficient  gardener,  and  consequently  worth  his  money. 
Would  not  some  such  plan  be  worth  the  consideration  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  if  a  convenient  occasion  occurred  at  any  time  ? — 
A.  Day,  Herts. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
H.  Cannell  &  Sons,  Swanley  and  Eynsford. — Autumn  Catalogue. 
Dicksons,  Ltd,,  Chester. — Forest  Trees,  Ornamental  Trees,  and  Evergreens. 
H.  P.  Kelsey,  Tremont  Building,  Boston,  Mass. — American  Hardy  Plants. 
B,  S.  Williams  &  Son,  Upper  Holloway. — Fruit  Trees,  Boses,  Shrubs, 
and  Herbaceous  Plants. 
WOKK.f0IlTHE^J/EEK.. 
111  ^ 
Hardy  Frnit  Carden. 
Preparation  of  Soil  for  Planting. — This  matter  should  claim  attention 
now  in  order  to  have  the  ground  in  readiness  when  the  trees  arrive 
early  in  November.  The  soil  is  comparatively  dry  now  and  works 
easily.  The  thorough  preparation  demanded,  too,  takes  up  considerable 
time,  and  there  is  a  chance  for  the  soil  to  settle  down  firmly  before 
planting  the  trees. 
The  best  method  of  preparation  is  undoubtedly  trenching,  as  by 
this  means  the  lower  spits  of  soil  are  well  broken  up.  It  is  not 
necessary  that  the  spits  of  soil  be  reversed,  ■  hence  bastard  trenching 
should  be  the  plan  adopted  so  as  to  retain  the  spits  of  soils  in  their 
original  position.  This  is  especially  necessary  where  the  subsoil 
is  poor  and  not  suitable  for  bringing  near  the  surface.  Trench 
2  feet  deep,  and  loosen  the  bottom  spit  below  tbis  with  a  fork.  Where 
a  plot  of  ground  is  to  be  planted  with  fruit  trees  and  bushes  it  is  the 
best  plan  to  prepare  the  whole  piece  of  ground  so  that  it  may  be  of 
uniform  depth  and  quality  throughout.  Trees  and  bushes  to  be  planted 
at  long  distances  apart  will  require  special  stations  prepared  for  them. 
These  positions  must  not  be  less  than  6  feet  in  diameter  if  of  circular 
form.  Six  feet  square  positions  will  provide  ample  rooting  space.  For 
Apples,  Pears,  and  stone  fruits  generally  manure  should  not  he  applied, 
as  it  causes  too  strong  growth,  but  if  the  soil  is  deficient  in  quality 
work  in  some  loamy  soil. 
For  Currants,  Gooseberries,  and  Raspberries  the  soil  may  be 
enriched  more  liberally  with  manure,  incorporating  it  well  with  the 
staple,  and  also  adding  wood  ashes,  which  assist  the  roots  to  take  early 
roothold. 
Gathering  Frnit. — The  majority  of  late  Apples  may  now  be  picked, 
exercising  care  not  to  injure  the  choice  specimens.  Store  in  a  cool 
room.  Late  Pears  will  hang  a  short  time  longer  and  improve  in 
ripening  should  the  weather  be  favourable. 
Examining  Stored  Frnit. — The  fruit  room  being  now  well  occupied 
with  the  different  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears  frequent  attention  is 
necessary  in  order  to  remove  defective  specimens.  Fruit  bruised  and 
damaged  when  gathering  must  be  used  as  soon  as  possible.  Do  not 
handle  the  fruits  stored  in  single  layers  more  than  possible.  Arrange 
Pears  in  the  warmer  part  of  structure  and  Apples  in  the  cooler. 
Gathering  and  Storing  Cob  Knts  and  Filberts. — When  the  nuts  and 
husks  are  quite  brown  and  easily  separated  they  are  ripe  and  ready  for 
gathering.  It  is  best  to  pick  and  not  shako  them  off  the  bushes. 
Before  storing  place  in  the  sun  for  a  few  days  to  thoroughly  dry  the 
husks.  Then  pack  the  nuts  in  jars,  sprinkling  in  a  little  salt  as  they 
are  being  filled  in,  which  which  will  prevent  mould  appearing  and  keep 
the  kernels  crisp.  Store  the  jars  in  a  cool  and  dry  situation. 
Outdoor  Figs. — Secure  young  growths  their  full  length,  not,  how¬ 
ever,  laying  them  in  too  thickly,  but  so  that  they  can  receive  plenty  of 
light  and  air  to  become  firm  and  well  ripened.  Remove  young  Figs 
the  size  of  Filberts,  as  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  develop  this  season. 
Outdoor  Vines.  —  Shorten  the  laterals,  and  stop  leaders  making 
further  growth.  Secure  all  the  principal  rods  to  the  wall  or  trellis.  The 
soil  must  be  thoroughly  moistened  if  very  dry,  and  enriched  with  liquid 
manure. 
Wall  Trees.  —  All  trees  may  advantageously  be  examined  and 
superfluous  shoots  cut  out,  so  as  to  enable  the  principal  bearing  wood 
laid  in  to  ripen  well.  To  do  so,  however,  it  must  be  disposed  thinly. 
Soft  young  green  shoots  will  be  of  little  use,  and  may  be  cut  or  rubbed 
out.  Remove  exhausted  branches  or  shoots  and  dead  wood,  shorten 
elongated  spurs,  and  thin  them  out  where  growing  too  thickly.  In  some 
cases  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  crowded  branches,  and  practically 
re-arrange  the  trees. 
Standard  Trees. — The  present  is  the  best  time  to  give  attention  to 
trees  that  contain  more  wood  than  is  good  for  them.  Remove  all 
unsuitable  branches,  principally  from  the  centres  of  the  trees,  including 
those  that  cross  one  another.  ^Cut  out  weak  wood,  dead  material,  and 
useless  spray. 
Blackberries. — The  cultivated  forms  of  Blackberries  require  a  strong 
rich  soil  of  good  depth.  Blackberries  flourish  under  similar  conditions 
to  Raspberries,  though  they  are  rather  longer  in  becoming  established 
and  producing  their  long  strong  growths.  The  planting  canes  should 
be  furnished  freely  with  fibrous  roots,  and  may  be  inserted  any  time  at 
this  season.  The  situation  must  be  sheltered,  though  open.  The  best 
results  will  follow  if  the  ground  is  trenched  to  the  depth  of  2^  feet, 
liberally  manuring  during  the  process.  Good  decomposed  cow  manure 
is  the  most  suitable  for  light  soil,  as  it  will  help  to  make  it  more 
adhesive.  Heavy  soil  ought  to  be  freely  worked  before  planting,  adding 
a  moderate  amount  of  farmyard  manure. 
The  rows  must  be  at  least  8  feet  asunder,  the  plants  being  arranged 
at  5  feet  distance  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  Fix  a  stake  to  each 
plant,  and  one  midway  between,  all  of  them  being  6  feet  high.  To 
