November  1,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
409“ 
Fruit  Forcinif. 
vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots. — Where  thin  skinned  Grapes  are 
required  in  March  and  April  the  house  intended  for  the  Vines  to 
produce  them  will  now  he  ready  for  their  reception.  The  pots  should 
be  placed  on  pillars  which  will  not  give  way  under  their  weight,  or 
interfere  with  attending  to  the  fermenting  material  used  for  supplying 
bottom  heat,  than  which  nothing  answers  better  than  bricks  placed  to 
the  required  height  without  mortar.  Against  the  pedestals  some 
turves  may  be  placed  and  the  holes  in  the  pots  enlarged,  bringing  the 
turf  up  above  them  so  as  to  be  within  easy  reach  of  the  roots, 
which  will  speedily  follow  the  stimulating  food  with  which  the  Vines 
are  fed,  and  the  weight  and  quality  of  the  crop  will  be  materially 
enhanced.  Oak,  Beech,  and  Spanish  Chestnut  leaves  are  the  best  for 
supplying  bottom  heat,  being  of  a  durable  nature,  giving  out  heat  and 
moisture  steadily  through  the  early  stages  of  growth,  and  rich 
stimulating  food  from  their  decay  during  the  swelling  of  the  fruit, 
when  the  Vine  requires  all  the  support  that  can  be  given.  Take  care 
that  the  heat  about  the  pots  does  not  exceed  70°  to  75°,  supplying  water 
only  to  keep  the  soil  moderately  moist,  as  a  wet  condition  does  not 
favour  speedy  and  healthy  root  action. 
Allow  the  canes  to  fall  into  a  horizontal  position  over  the  fermenting 
material  until  they  have  broken,  but  not  permitting  them  to  rest  upon 
the  moist  and  warm  bed.  Syringe  the  paths,  walls,  and  canes  two  or 
three  times  a  day,  but  sufficiently  early  for  the  last  time  each  day  to 
allow  of  the  canes  becoming  fairly  dry  before  nightfall.  Maintain  a 
temperature  of  55°  at  night,  and  65°  to  65°  in  the  daytime,  with  a  free 
circulation  of  air  at  and  above  that  temperature,  and  close  early  in  the 
afternoon. 
Succession  Houses. — Push  on  the  pruning  as  soon  as  the  Vines  become 
clear  of  foliage,  also  the  cleansing  and  limewashing,  carefully  washing 
the  rods  with  soap  and  water  before  dressing  them  with  an  insecticide. 
This  will  be  all  that  is,  in  most  cases,  necessary,  few  growers  now 
practising  the  old-fashioned  process  of  peeling,  scraping,  and  painting 
with  a  pigment  of  clay,  soot,  sulphur,  and  other  substances.  Where 
insects,  however,  have  a  strong  hold  on  the  Vines  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  remove  the  loose  bark  ;  but  do  not  injure  the  living  rods, 
and  eradicate  the  enemy  by  washing  thoroughly  with  an  insecticide. 
Some  strong  mixtures,  especially  those  compounded  of  oils  and  fats, 
are  more  injurious  to  the  Viues  than  the  peeling,  and  they  should  be 
avoided  unless  used  with  an  equal  weight  of  dry  pulverised  clay  and 
sufficient  water  to  form  a  cream  readily  applicable  with  a  brush. 
Midseason  Houses. — Any  Grapes  that  are  still  on  the  Vines  may  be 
cut,  as  they  will  keep  fresh  in  bottles  of  water  in  a  cool,  dry  room. 
The  Grapes  should  be  cut  with  all  the  wood  that  can  be  spared  for 
insertion  into  bottles  of  rain  water,  removing  the  foliage,  but  not 
shortening  the  wood — the  wood  that  has  formed  beyond  the  bunch. 
The  Vines  should  then  have  the  laterals  shortened  or  removed,  and  the 
growths  generally  cut  back,  so  as  to  plump  the  pruning  buds ;  but  it 
must  be  done  gradually  in  the  case  of  vigorous  Vines  which  are  disposed 
to  make  a  late  growth,  checking  their  propensity  by  free  ventilation 
instantly ;  and  where  the  wood  is  not  brown  and  hard  the  heat  should 
be  turned  on  by  day,  but  shutting  it  off  at  night,  until  the  foliage  affords 
indications  of  falling,  yet  not  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  below 
50°  at  night.  The  Vines  will  derive  great  benefit  from  the  exposure  to 
the  weather  as  long  as  it  continues  mild,  guarding  against  a  sudden 
chill  by  drawing  up  the  roof -lights,  or  closing  the  house  when  the  nights 
are  likely  to  be  wet  or  frosty. 
Late  Hamburgh  Houses. — The  atmosphere  in  which  bunches  of 
thin-skinned  Grapes  are  hanging  cannot  be  too  carefully  attended  to, 
as  the  berries  are  very  susceptible  to  injury  from  excessive  moisture  ; 
while  if  kept  too  dry  and  warm  they  are  liable  to  shrivel.  A  gentle 
movement  of  the  atmosphere  will  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture 
on  the  berries,  and  when  ventilation  cannot  be  given  a  little  warmth 
in  the  hot  water  pipes  will  keep  the  air  in  motion,  and  the  moisture 
will  be  condensed  on  the  glass  as  long  as  the  external  air  is  cooler 
than  that  of  the  house.  A  steady  temperature  of  50°,  with  a  little 
warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  liberal  ventilation  on  fine  days,  will  suit  the 
Grapes  during  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  when,  unless  the  house  is  well 
adapted  for  keeping  them,  the  bunches  may  be  cut,  bottled,  and  placed 
in  the  late  houses  or  a  cool,  dry  room.  The  border  must  be  kept  moist 
or  the  Grapes  will  shrivel  even  while  the  leaves  are  on  the  Vines. 
Laie  Houses. — Muscats,  as  a  rule,  have  done  well  this  season,  being 
fine  in  berry,  high  in  colour,  and  excellent  in  quality.  This  is  the 
outcome  of  thoroughly  ripened  wood  and  stored  matter  from  last  year. 
The  Grapes  will  need  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  until  the  leaves 
commence  falling,  and  moisture  must  be  kept  from  becoming  stagnant 
by  a  judicious  admission  of  air.  Where  the  Vines  have  lost  their 
leaves  a  slight  shading  may  be  necessary  to  prevent  the  berries  becoming 
brown,  which  is  not  a  tinge  esteemed  at  table  nor  in  the  market. 
Only  where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  and  the  weather  bright  is 
this  advisable,  and  a  single  thickness  of  pilchard  netting  drawn  over  the 
roof-lights  will  be  sufficient  shading.  The  thick  skinned  Grapes  will 
still  improve  in  finish  and  quality  being  accorded  a  temperature  of  50°, 
and  air  freely  admitted  above  that  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
Though  the  berries  will  keep  well  enough  in  houses  where  the 
outside  borders  are  exposed  to  the  weather,  it  is  only  when  they  are 
high  and  dry,  for  a  cold  saturated  soil  is  not  without  its  baneful  effects 
on  the  Grapes  as  well  as  the  roots  of  the  Vines.  To  prevent  such 
condition  the  borders  should  be  covered  with  lights,  or  something  that 
will  throw  off  deluging  rains  and  snow.  Lights  are  the  best,  as  the 
border  then  gets  the  benefit  of  sun  and  air ;  but  a  covering  of  dry  fern 
or  leaves  with  a  little  litter  over  them  is  better  than  nothing.  The 
inside  borders  will  be  getting  dry  at  the  surface,  and  should  be  covered 
with  some  dry  fern  or  sweet  straw,  neatly  spreading  it  over  them. 
This  will  prevent  their  cracking  and  giving  off  dust,  besides 
improving  their  appearance.  Give  daily  attention  to  the  removal  of 
ripe  foliage  as  it  parts  from  the  Vines,  keeping  the  houses  clear  of  plants 
requiring  water,  and  thoroughly  sweet  and  clean,  removing  all  faulty 
berries  as  they  appear. 
- - 
TLz -.-j  ■■  1  ■  1  .  1  .  1  ■  1  ■  1  ■  1  -T^T^  ,  ■  .  -  ,  -  ,  -  ,  -  1  -  1  -  T  -  ,  -  ,  -T-  1  -  i  ■  1  -T^  - TT:?!  i 
M-I 
iE  BBE-KE)BPER.^! 
Preparing  for  Spring. 
The  fine  weather  experienced  during  the  past  two  months  has 
had  the  effect  of  prolonging  the  flowering  season  of  annuals  and  other 
free-flowering  plants  in  the  garden.  It  is  not  often  such  a  wealth  of 
flowers  is  seen  as  late  as  the  middle  of  October.  When  frost  has 
destroyed  the  flowers  no  time  should  be  lost  in  making  preparation  for 
spring.  It  is  a  great  advantage  to  plant  as  early  as  possible  in  the 
autumn,  so  that  the  stock  may  become  established  before  severe 
weather  sets  in.  Fortunately  some  of  the  showiest  spring  flowering 
plants  yield  both  pollen  and  honey.  The  former  is  a  necessity  when 
breeding  is  going  on  in  the  spring,  and  without  it  the  bees  would  be 
at  a  standstill.  If  flowers  are  not  plentiful  artificial  pollen  may  be 
provided. 
Wallflowers  we  plant  more  extensively  than  anything  else  on 
account  of  iheir  showy  appearance  and  sweet  perfume  whilst  in 
bloom.  It  is  not  one  of  the  earliest  spring  flowers,  except  in  a 
sheltered  position,  If  the  seeds  were  sown  in  May,  and  duly  thinned 
or  transplanted,  the  plants  will  have  made  a  compact  growth,  and  if 
they  are  lifted  with  a  ball  they  will  not  receive  any  check.  We 
prefer  self  colours,  either  yellow  or  red,  and  if  planted  in  masses  they 
have  a  much  better  effect  than  if  planted  singly  amongst  other  plants 
in  the  borders.  Arabia  alpina  is  also  excellent  for  the  bees,  as  it 
comes  into  bloom  very  early  in  the  spring.  It  is  suitable  for  th§ 
rockery  or  for  edgings.  This  plant  is  increased  by  division  in  the 
spring. 
Limnanthes  Douglasi  grows  about  9  inches  in  he'ght,  and  when 
once  plants  have  become  established  in  a  place  they  will  reproduce 
themselves  from  seeds.  It  usually  blooms  in  May,  and  large  masses 
of  it  are  very  showy.  Although  not  usually  classed  as  bee  flowers, 
we  may  mention  the  common  Primrose  and  the  different  varieties 
of  Myosotis,  as  at  the  season  when  they  are  in  bloom  flowers  are 
often  scarce,  and  the  bees  may  be  observed  to  be  working  freely 
on  them.  There  are  many  bulbous  plants  which  are  useful  to 
the  bees.  One  of  our  earliest  spring  flowers  is  the  Winter  Aconite. 
This  does  remarkably  well  if  planted  in  the  grass,  and  it  has  the 
advantage  of  growing  freely  and  flowering  profusely  when  planted 
under  trees.  This  is  followed  by  the  Crocus.  All  the  varieties  are 
excellent  pollen-producing  flowers  much  frequented  by  the  bees. — 
An  English  Bee-keeper. 
Rbyttamlc  Growth. — Mr.  Meehan  says,  “  Though  it  has  long  been 
suggested  that  growth  in  plants  is  not  regular  and  continuous,  but 
rhythmic,  it  is  only  within  comparatively  recent  years  that  observations 
numerous  enough  to  carry  almost  universal  acceptance  of  the  proposition 
have  been  made,  and  these  chiefly  through  the  labours  of  American 
biologists.  But  the  European  observers  seem  to  conclude  that  this  is 
not  a  natural  rhythmic  growth,  but  a  condition  induced  by  change  from 
light  to  darkness,  or  some  other  phase  of  environment,  which  brings 
about  this  ‘  periodicity,’  as  they  term  it.  In  this  light  a  paper 
contributed  by  M.  E.  Godlewski  to  the  Academy  of  Sciences,  in  Austria, 
is  attracting  marked  attention  in  the  Old  World.  His  experiments 
show  that  there  is  more  or  less  growth  in  proportion  to  the  moisture  or 
dryness  in  the  atmosphere.  He  discovered  that  though  a  sudden 
change  from  obscurity  to  light  brought  about  a  diminution  in  the  rate 
of  growth,  after  five  hours  it  would  again  resume  its  ‘  normal  ’  progress. 
The  explanation  from  American  botanists  would  be  that  the  innate  life 
energy  is,  naturally  as  all  motion  is  necessarily,  rhythmic ;  and  that 
this  energy  is  more  or  less  feeble  in  proportion  to  external  resistance. 
With  partial  rest  it  acquires  new  force  with  which  to  oppose  resistance, 
continuing  till  this  is  again  spent.” 
